jreynish

iTrader: (2)

So,

I bought a 1990 Mazda Rx-7 Turbo when I was 17, I still have it 15 years later... after heavily modifying the powertrain, the suspension, and then trying to go back to stock reliability it ended up being a garage queen. I have owned five different Turbo Sevens over the years, and sold them all after fixing them up, enjoying them for a season, and then selling them to someone else. However mine, needed serious help, she was driven in a couple of winters by a previous owner, spend a few years living on the west coast, and now she has some cancer. So I decided that I would build a Garage in the middle of no-where for the express purpose of restoring my car... but I did not want to restore a car just to have all of the same complaints I had about the stock car. I wanted to make the car the way I figure Mazda should have made it back in the day. So here it is a rough Idea of my Resto mod;

1990 Mazda Rx-7 Turbo
Power Train;
Fully rebuilt S5 Turbo Block
FD UIM with compression elbow
EFR8374 Turbo
Electric Fuel Pump
Electric-Hydraulic Power steering system
Upgraded A/C System
170A Alternator
Koyo Radiator
Power Steering Cooler
Custom Bar and Plate 4" thick Front Mount intercooler
Adaptronic 440d universal
AEM Smart Coils setup in Direct Fire mode
Carbon fibre or Alum Drive shaft
Rebuilt S5 Transmission
Rebuild S4 LSD

Electrical System;
Infinity Box Can-Bus wiring system (to replace all the glitchy electrics that plagued these cars)
Sakebomb HID Headlights, and LED Daytime Running Lights (DRLs are required by law up here in the great white north)
Aftermarket Instruments custom mounted into the OEM cluster so that it is as close to stock as it can be.
Aftermarket double Din Sat Nav head unit with mini amps, and audiofile components.

Chassis;
Upgraded Torque Boxes, replace, and upgrade the unibody.
Replace full Panels to replace rusted ones.
Wide front fenders so that the front and rear rims and tires will be the same size
OEM styling, with the exceptions of a Mazdaspeed front splitter, and Wide front Fenders.
Restored, or replaced interior pieces, plastic and trip pieces.
Sparco Seats with brackets and sliders
Epoxy Primer, with High Grade undercoating
Yet to be determined whole chassis colour change
New seals, and weatherstripping

Suspension;
Custom Copper Zinc Brake Lines, with SS fittings
Flexible SS brake Lines
Upgraded Front Brakes (still deciding on how to go)
Fully adjustable Coil Over suspension
Upgraded Sway Bars Front and rear
S4 LSD conversion
Polyeurethane Transmission mounts
Mazdaspeed rear Ed Mounts
Mazdaspeed Engine Mounts
DTSS eliminator bushings
Energy suspension Bushing kit

I am certain I have forgotten lots of stuff on there, but needless to say I will attempt and document it as best I can. I am hoping that someone can learn from the experience, or at the very least be inspired to restore more of these great cars! This process is going to take place over the next few years, but I will attempt to document it as best I am able.. that is assuming I remember to take pictures along the way.

I encourage your guys to ask questions, make suggestions, and criticize (the constructive kind) all you like!

Here is some of the first shots I have taken thus far,

1) The car interior removal started
2) Transmission Removal to have it sent out for rebuild
3) Rear End Removed, to be replaced with S4 LSD Powerdercoated Cast Iron Input housing
4) Transmission mount sand blasted, primed and painted, assembled with Polyeurathane Bushings
5) NiCop Brake Lines with SS Fittings Custom bent to match OEM lines Ready to be installed (not in the near Furture)

Kevv

I just purchased a black 1989 Tii with intentions similar to yours with my dad - Subscribing and all the best!

jreynish

iTrader: (2)

Well it has been a while that I have had any time to update this thread. However rest assured there will be lots more to come on the thread.

So far I have stripped my car, identified all the panels that need replacing all the parts that need remanufacturing, and all the parts that need modifications.

Some of the modifications were creating ducts for my front mount intercooler setup. Some of the parts are no longer available from mazda like the floor pan, and many many other parts, so I figured that I would either take them from a donor car or two, and when that was not possible I started designing replacements.

Some of these are;
Sections of the floor pan
The under side floor supports (some call it frame rails)
I am not sure yet how many other parts I have ordered will fail to be available but this is really slowing down my progress. I hope to have the car painted by the end of summer this year and start reassembly.

I will get some photos up here to show progress.

jreynish

iTrader: (2)

So these are the ducts I created and then cut and welded so that there was a dedicated pass thru for my custom 4" w 20" L 11" h bar and plate intercooler.

jreynish

iTrader: (2)

So the frame rails or floor supports that are always crushed and mangled on FC's are no longer available from Mazda so I took the time and I modeled them in CAD and created a manufacturable part. I decided that these are too weak from mazda so I doubled the wall thickness of the metal which will yield a more durable part.

Then I printed them out 1:1 stitched it together and double checked that the parts will fit. All holes match Mazda's parts, except the threaded bits will have to use RIVNUTS and install them after the fact. But it will look like mazdas parts but will be twice as strong.

jreynish

iTrader: (2)

I have also started to design the InfinityBox Can bus wiring system for the car, and started creating wiring diagrams, and schematics to ensure when the body is done and painted, that it will be easy and fast for me to wire it, and more importantly troubleshoot any problems I may have.

Same goes for the engine, i decided I wanted a serpentine belt, so I am currently in the process of modifying an 13BREW front cover to fit my 13BT, which will require customizing an oil pan as well.

The engine will also have an 13BREW upper intake manifold, so I am in the process of modifying the LIM to fit the FD3S UIM.

I have also figured out the mounting of the Electric Power Steering Pump, as well as how to modify the fuel tank pump setup to allow for two aeromotive stealth 340 fuel pumps. with custom Fuel Lines to suit.

I have spent most of the past year measuring designing and planning as well as documenting the disassembly of the entire car, as well as sourcing parts, and procuring them one by one. I am now in the phase of the project where I will start fabricating, building and modifying most parts while the car is at the body shop getting prepped and painted.

Last but not least the suspension and brakes are mostly spec'd out. I plan to run custom hats for two piece rotors to run larger brakes. however the brakes part is currently up in the air, whether I go full custom/aftermarket or I go modified OEM aftermarket... this one is still up in the air.

jreynish

iTrader: (2)

Thanks, I hope you guys enjoy the project!

DC5Daniel

iTrader: (10)

I like how you're remanufacturing the frame rails! Is that something you would consider making more of? Depending on the price and complexity to install, I think a lot of us would benefit from that. I hope to see more on that when you put them in the car.

jreynish

iTrader: (2)

I toyed with the idea after I know what fitment is like, and all that I could just release the Drawings and DXF files... or I could have a batch created and sell them to the community for very little markup just enough to cover the overhead of stocking the parts.... More to follow on that, stay tuned.

jreynish

iTrader: (2)

To be clear the part I designed is rather labour intensive, it requires cutting out all the spot welds on the existing pieces and removing them. Then Lining up the new part, drilling plug weld holes where needed, and then by priming the part, and finally using a weld though primer on selected spots welding them on just like OEM. I suppose I could create one that would bolt on overtop of the existing ones... but that would be problematic as the rigidity would not be the same as a welded part. Also the OEM ones that need replacing that are mangled are likely so deformed that these larger versions would unlikely fit overtop without some fuss. I guess in the end this is something to be further discussed.

psyaddict

wow that looks nice, why didn't I think of that

jreynish

iTrader: (2)

Lol yeah, I have used just about every version of FMIC piping that exists... Disliked the amount of tubing they all used. I nearly went with reverse cowel hood and VMIC... but it dawned on me one day this would be the best.... Can't wait to see how well it looks when I have it all together!

Restored Rotary

iTrader: (1)

What intercooler are you planning on running?

jreynish

iTrader: (2)

I will be running a custom 4" thick 17.75" wide and 11.5" tall Bar and plate intercooler.

jreynish

iTrader: (2)

Well I have made some progress though not with the body work that is going slowly, and may be farmed out to a body shop as my time is limited. However in the mean time I have been working on the engine modifications, manifold, turbo, REW front cover conversion, as well as serpentine conversion. and working on sandblasting most of the suspension bits. But I have chronicled the REW front Cover retrofit to the 13BT here at the end of this thread starting at post 27,28,29,30,31.

For your reading pleasure
https://www.rx7club.com/2nd-generati.../#post12220269

Also I have sent the transmission away to get rebuilt with new bearing and synchronizers. The rear end is being rebuilt with a ATS 1.5 Way Carbon Differential http://www.ppi-ats.com/LSD/Carbon_LSD.html as well as new bearings and the pinion housing powder coated black.

Next on the list is going to be suspension stuff, and maybe custom big brake modification (have not figured it out).

jreynish

iTrader: (2)

So I started doing some more engine modifications and my Turblown Cast SS turbo manifold came in. I have had my EFR 8374 for sometime and I figured it was time to mock up the engine bits do whatever modifications were required before I break it down and rebuild it, send parts out for ceramic coating, and or powdercoating as required.

Now when I talked to the guy's at Turblown Performance Engineering they indicated that I would need to trim off about 1/8" off my intake manifold Front Secondary Runner in order to fit the 8374 on their manifold for the FC3S. I figured 1/8" insn't that much as the casting is about 3/16-1/4" thick so I figured I would be safe... well either they were wrong or they did not try it with the larger diameter runner S5 Lower intake manifold cause you need to remove ALOT of material.

I have a spare LIM lying around but this is likely to be the one I use so I started Grinding until I blew thru the runner. Then Finally I got the clearance I wanted and then ground it down some more so as to leave enough space for me to cut some 3/16" aluminum plate and re-weld up the runner, but because it takes quite a bit out of the runner I took off all the accessories off the LIM in order to clean it up and simplify things a bit (No more blockoff plates).

Because of the reduced cross section of the intake runner I will likely create a new Bulge out of the opposite side using 3/16" aluminum plate and weld it, grind it, and sand it. Followed by cleaning up the inside of the intake runner to ensure the cross section of the intake runner remains largely the same and as smooth as it was before. This will very slightly increase the already long front secondary intake runner in doing so. (I figured about 8mm in length extra)

Some photos of the EFR 8374 With Exhaust manifold gasket and LIM with LIM Gaskets in place to show you how much interference there is with this setup. Now you could have likely gotten away making a spacer, or adding another gasket as was suggested but I feel that is a cop out and not as correct as I would like it to be, so here is the mayhem that was created, I will post again when I finish modifying the Intake manifold to match.

jreynish

iTrader: (2)

Well here it is, I cut open a large patch on the LIM which I re-formed and welded on to the LIM to allow for the Clearance of the 8374 to the Front Secondary port runner.

So here it is welded and ground smooth but not sanded or blasted. I broke my long shank oval head die grinder bit, so could not finish smoothing out the inside of the runner, but it will be done before I send the intake manifold for ceramic coating.

Take a look at the modified LIM with and without the EFR 8374 on the Turblown Cast Investment SS manifold.

jreynish

iTrader: (2)

Well the car has been shipped out to a reputable body shop to replace the side panels of the car with brand new mazda ones, as well as the roof panel. Patch the floor (no new floor panels were available), then epoxy primed, and finally painted. Pretty sure I am going with meteor grey mica from the current year MX-5. Not decided fully on the colour but I am narrowed down to a darker grey metallic or mica. So then hopefully there will be progress on the car body while I am overseas. Next is more suspension work, and wiring diagram drawing, and planning for the car.

I still have to figure out how I plan to control my davies craig water pump and three electric fans, whether I use the M6000 ECU to control them or I use the davies craig controller to do it. I have to start doing some powder coating soon for the suspension and undercarriage parts before re-assembly. to be ready when the body is done at the body shop.

Nosferatu

Which panels are you replacing? rear quarters? when I inquired...mazda said they still had some in japan but weren't sending any more over.

jreynish

iTrader: (2)

Yes the whole side assembly includes door sill and sash as well as rear quarter panels mine came over from Japan about five months ago. As well as the roof panel and front fender stays and supports.

Shainiac

iTrader: (7)

To clear the S5 TII LIM and EFR 9180 w/ Turblown manfold, I bought a Tial milled 1/2" flange, 2 T4 gaskets, and longer studs. This spaced the turbo far enough away from the LIM to clear. I did have a lot of issues getting the flange to seal, but I put Nord-Lock washers on the manifold and never had an issue. I HIGHLY recommend you put these on now before it's in the car. I had to "make" a wrench out of a craftman 15mm, a MIG welder, and a oxy torch that would snake around to tighten the T4 bolts.

jreynish

iTrader: (2)

Yeah that is part of the reason I did not want to create a spacer. it is difficult to get a proper seal, you should use inconel studs as well. The factory turbo manifold had inconel studs and nuts to prevent stretching of the bolts as the heat cycles increase.

I simply modified the LIM in order to ensure I would not have to worry about any extra points of sealing failure. But that is a viable solution for anyone who does not want to, or is not able to modify the LIM as I did. Thanks for the input!

wesdog321

nice build.

jreynish

iTrader: (2)

Well I have been busy, working on modifying manifolds, and front covers as well as creating brackets, and mock up the fuel system and turbo system so that I can break down the engine block and parts and, powder coat, or ceramic coat the parts before reassembly.

This way the engine wiring harness can be built so that I can wrap it up and have it ready for installation when the time comes.
Break Down of Engine
13BT S5 Block Moderate Street Port

Intake Setup
Obsidian Labs S5 LIM to REW UIM adapter
REW Upper Intake manifold, TB, and Compression Elbow
REW UIM Secondary Throttle plates removed and holes welded closed.
Bosch Intake Air Pressure and Temperature Sensor Custom mounted to Primary intake runner on REW UIM (Adaptronic)

Turbo System
Turblown SS Cast Turbo Manifold
EFR 8374 IWG Turbo
Turbosmart IWG actuator Dual Port

Fuel System
Turbosmart FRP 2000
Full Function Engineering (FFE) S5 Fuel Rail kit
Injector Dynamics (ID) 1050 Primaries
ID 2000 Secondaries
All SS Custom Fabricated Fuel lines connecting all parts on the engine.
Flex Fuel Sensor
Electronic Fuel Pressure sensor (for Adaptronic EFI)

Accessories
REW Front Cover and Serpentine Belt system
REW Accessory Bracket modified to replace Belt Driven Pump with MR2 Late Model Electric Power Steering Pump
REW Air Conditioning Compressor
FFE Trigger Kit (MAG)

Cooling
S4 Water pump housing
Turblown Electric Water Pump kit for S4 water pump
Modified S5 Oil pan to accomodate REW Front Cover (see above)

Senders
Speed hut Water Temp Sender
Speed hut Oil Pressure sender
Speed hut MAP sensor
Oil Pressure sender (Adaptronic)
Oil Temperature (Adaptronic)
Water Temp Sender (Adaptronic)
EFR Boost Control Solonoid
Oil Level Sensor (OEM)

That should about sum up all the parts and pieces for the engine block that I am currently working on while the car is being worked on by the body shop. Check out a couple pics of the intake manifold setup with FFE Fuel Rails in place. And the REW UIM with the Bosch Sensor fitted.

UncleCid

I love how well documented you're keeping things. This will help me if and whenever I ever get to start building my own.