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Rhonda's StreetPort/Rebuild Progress.

Old 02-09-16, 10:28 AM
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Found out that the temp switch went bad so I ordered a better one. That would be the reason the fans don't kick on haha. Anyways it's on its way and will be here Friday.

On another note... Does anyone know how to wire in and Apexi S-AFC? I just picked one up to help my fuel consumption issues and I cannot find any information on the S-AFC, only info found was the SAFCII. From what I have read the installation should be fairly simple, just don't know where to find the information. If anyone has a link or experience please help me out.

Thank you!
Old 02-09-16, 10:35 AM
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What kind of fuel consumption issues are you having? Even the na rotaries are horrible on fuel. If you get like 12 mpg then you likely have an issue but a good na should average about 20 combined.
Old 02-09-16, 01:21 PM
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Well this is a large streetport engine and I'm not exactly sure what mileage I'm getting due to the break in and constant tuning. The SAFC is to help lean out at the higher RPMs. Basically I'm trying everything to not go standalone on this NA. If I had to give a number I would say I'm at roughly 15mpg street driving, but my AFRs are still pretty rich in the higher RPMs.
Old 02-10-16, 01:55 PM
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Picking up a TII hood today with a little damage, will post pics once I have it.
Old 02-11-16, 06:39 PM
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So after installing the alternator, main pulley and a new temp switch I have found another issue. The oil pressure gauge is either in the fritz or something is wrong. I purchased an Autometer electric oil pressure gauge to find out which it is. Knock out one issue and find ten more lol.

So I will update once I install the gauge.

Also here is my TII hood on the car. The hood is a little beat up and was once on a 5.0 swapped 7 so the underside is hacked... But for the price I picked it up.
Old 02-12-16, 09:01 AM
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Pretty sure my oil pressure issue is the sending unit and will be purchasing one within the next couple of days from Atkins.

On another note... I still cannot get the perfect idle set on this engine. I have reinstalled the BAC valve, but when the lights are on and I hit the brakes the idle wants to drop and the engine wants to stall. You can see this in the beginning of the video above and that's with no lights on at all. Now I have tested the BAC valve and it is in working order, how would one go about adjusting this? I have been adjusting it while the car is running and waiting for the fans to kick on to see how she does but I am still having issues.
Old 02-15-16, 09:05 AM
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All is well now... I cleaned off the connection to the oil pressure sending unit?? and the pressure gauge returned to normal. Either way I have ordered a new unit due to mine being 27 years old and all.

Can't wait to get my oil pressure gauge installed along with the gauge pod I have ordered! Now I will know exactly what my oil is doing at all times!

Will post pictures when I have all of the items installed and ready.



Happy Valentine's Day Rhonda!


Old 02-15-16, 08:24 PM
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Got bored waiting for parts so I decided to plast dip the front end of the car. I've always wanted a white one so this way I can see if I'll like it.

It's not finished and hopefully by the weekend it will be.



Work in progress.
Old 02-21-16, 03:29 PM
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Plasti dipped.


Old 02-23-16, 12:14 PM
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Looking good, how's it driving?
Old 02-24-16, 08:22 AM
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Originally Posted by rabernathy87
Looking good, how's it driving?
Thank you! I'm debating on whether to paint the car white or go with the same color as the engine bay. She is driving well but needs an alignment bad. I want to wait until I get new tires before I go in and get the alignment done though.

The engine runs strong and is plenty peppy compared to the stock engine set-up. I am running an underdrive pulley which makes daily driving a pain but well worth it in my opinion. My AFRs are good, running in the high 12's to low 13's at idle and oil pressure is good. I do have some sort of hiccup around 2500 RPMs though and need to figure out what it is. Overall I am proud of this build though and can't wait to dump more money into it!

Although I am happy with this engine I do want more power and will be turboing this streeported n/a motor in the near future, I just need to stack some cash for all the goodies!
Old 02-24-16, 11:19 AM
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Glad to hear that!

I was going to go that way and turbo my N/A but I can't justify the money I'll be putting in it. Plus the other issues I have it'd be close to probably 4k before I had it running right. On the hunt for an elusive s5 on the west coast! Been a terrible search past month or so haha.

You plan on going with the stock turbo set up or something else?
Old 02-24-16, 11:51 AM
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Originally Posted by rabernathy87
Glad to hear that!

I was going to go that way and turbo my N/A but I can't justify the money I'll be putting in it. Plus the other issues I have it'd be close to probably 4k before I had it running right. On the hunt for an elusive s5 on the west coast! Been a terrible search past month or so haha.

You plan on going with the stock turbo set up or something else?

I will probably go with a stock turbo setup just to keep the boost to a minimum. I guess it all depends on what everything costs. With all of the money I have wrapped up in this car the budget will be a major factor.
Old 02-24-16, 04:12 PM
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I hear you there, I was going to try it until I seen how much it would be to add a rebuild to the cost of everything else. Originally wanted to put the turbo rotors in, then wanted to swap turbo drive train over, and now I'm on the hunt for a new canvas. I've half assed all of my projects before, want to do at least one right!
Old 02-25-16, 08:55 AM
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Originally Posted by rabernathy87
I hear you there, I was going to try it until I seen how much it would be to add a rebuild to the cost of everything else. Originally wanted to put the turbo rotors in, then wanted to swap turbo drive train over, and now I'm on the hunt for a new canvas. I've half assed all of my projects before, want to do at least one right!
Yeah the rebuild can be pretty costly depending on how you go about it. Actually I don't think I have more than $5,000 into this rebuild so far, and that includes many other non engine related parts as well. I have always wanted to do the TII swap on my vert but thought of that as the easy way to do things. But to be completely honest, for the money spent you get a lot more out of the turbo motor. Yeah having a loud N/A that has a little more pep is nice and all, but when your friend owns a 470WHP WRX you kind of want a little more power.

If I don't turbo this motor I will probably source a TII swap with trans, wiring harness and ECU and rebuild it for when the N/A decides to crap out.

What kind of money are you looking to spend on a new canvas?
Old 02-29-16, 06:34 PM
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I'm hoping to get one at about 3500. It's a long shot but whatever, I got about 5000 to spend on one if it's decent. Still no luck finding one near me, or really any at all that aren't priced ridiculously high.
Old 02-29-16, 07:46 PM
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That's amazing! Great build
Old 03-01-16, 02:50 PM
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Originally Posted by Phillip123
That's amazing! Great build
Thank you!
Old 03-01-16, 02:56 PM
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So I am having another issue... So I was on the freeway doing about 75 and drop into 3rd to gain some speed and once I am over 4000 RPMs I get a lot of stuttering all the way through to redline and she doesn't seem to pick up speed very quickly like before. Now I haven't checked sparkplugs or wires yet but will when I get home, and I don't think I have a ground issue as I have cleaned them all since doing the rebuild but what else could cause this problem? My AFRs are good at idle and on load... I guess it's back to the drawing board once again.
Old 03-01-16, 03:23 PM
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Afrs jump around when it stutters? Could be misfiring. Misfires will show up as lean spikes on a wideband regardless of cause 90% of the time.
Old 03-01-16, 03:40 PM
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Originally Posted by MjhRotor
Afrs jump around when it stutters? Could be misfiring. Misfires will show up as lean spikes on a wideband regardless of cause 90% of the time.
I will give it another test on the way home today, it could very well be misfiring to be honest. I have had plug issues since the rebuild and these plugs have lasted the longest so far. I will also check timing tonight as I haven't in about a month now and it's time to check it. The engine has about 1,300 miles on it now and it could use another tune.
I will post the results as soon as possible.
Old 03-03-16, 08:32 AM
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Bad to worse in about 20 minutes...

So I looked at my plugs when I got home and they could use a good cleaning, they aren't as bad as before but could use a little TLC.

Now on the way into work today I had to pull off to the side of the road because me E-fan decided it didn't want to kick on... So I pulled over and popped the hood to see what the issue was and found nothing out of place at all. I then decided to press on the relay to see if it had wiggled loose by chance, after that the fan kicked on... My problem is that now the fan is on while the car is below temp? Not sure what went wrong here but I find it a little odd.

This weekend we are putting the car on jack stands to tighten anything and everything possible, hopefully we can figure out what is creating all of my problems as well.
I have solid motor and trans mounts which leads me to believe I am vibrating this car to pieces haha. Since the rebuild I have put 1400 miles on the engine and have had very few issues with the car since then, but I do believe I have something loose in the front end that will need to be addressed. Also I hear a strange whining noise coming from the diff area while driving and it seems to get louder as I increase speed, another reason we are putting her up on stands. This weekend will be a busy one filled with double checking work and a little bit of problem solving.
Old 03-03-16, 09:46 AM
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Rhonda's StreetPort/Rebuild Progress.

If any of the bearings in the diff are on the way out they will whine increasingly with speed. If you have solid or very stiff diff mounts you will get increased diff noise transfer as well which would be more normally unless it keeps getting progressively louder over time.

You may want to check out the amperage ratings of the relay you are using and the actual draw of the fan. It's not uncommon for relays to go bad if they aren't up to the task asked of them. Fans are pretty hard on average relays especially if you are using one that pulls a ton of amps. (Taurus fan comes to mind)

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Old 03-03-16, 10:05 AM
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Originally Posted by MjhRotor
If any of the bearings in the diff are on the way out they will whine increasingly with speed. If you have solid or very stiff diff mounts you will get increased diff noise transfer as well which would be more normally unless it keeps getting progressively louder over time.

You may want to check out the amperage ratings of the relay you are using and the actual draw of the fan. It's not uncommon for relays to go bad if they aren't up to the task asked of them. Fans are pretty hard on average relays especially if you are using one that pulls a ton of amps. (Taurus fan comes to mind)
I do have solid diff mounts and the noise did only come after they were installed. The noise has not gotten any worse and because the car is so loud I can barely hear it most of the time.

As for the fan and relay, I am unsure of the exact fan I am using as it came with the vehicle when I bought it 3 years ago. I will look into a better relay though as mine is only a 30amp and I have had nothing but issue with it since it was installed. I do think the relay may have vibrated loose though because of the stiff ride/solid motor, trans and diff mounts. I had recently drove the car to a customers which was on a rough dirt road and that may have had something to do with it.

This weekend I will be under the car tinkering and will do my best to figure out with the issue is exactly.
Old 03-03-16, 10:11 AM
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Solid mounts transfer tons of gear noise and whining so nothing you can really do there even a like new diff is going to be very loud with solid mounts. Same goes for the trans.

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