ItsJBohmzB

I will be double checking everything today after work. The plug wires seemed to be right, (although I am missing the cover for the trailing, I assumed that the front plug on the trailing would be rotor 1 and the rear would be rotor 2). I have already gone over all of the connectors that are being used and 95% of the grounds. The motor did run before it was pulled to be rebuilt, the reason it was pulled was due to an internal coolant leak.

I pulled the plugs yesterday and removed the assembly lube from them. I went over timing a few times, even double checking the pulley from atkins. The CAS was stabbed properly with the cover off and lined up correctly.

I'm sure that the car is just flooded right now and will hopefully fire after I get a good charge on the battery and I deflood her. I will work on getting the compression numbers as soon as possible also.

As for fuel pressure, I am unsure how much pressure I am getting at the moment and will have to find out exactly. We have minimal tools at the moment and will have to wait until payday to actually acquire all of the tools needed.

Thanks for your help!

ItsJBohmzB

So we took the injectors out and put some new o-rings on them because they were leaking fuel pretty bad. I may need to have them rebuilt and flow tested also. But we fixed the leak and reinstalled them, after that we tried starting the car... No go, after deflooding and cleaning the plugs she still didn't fire up. This weekend we will be hunting down vacuum leaks (if any) and seeing if we missed any grounds anywhere. Once we know we don't have a vacuum leak or electrical issue we will do the compression test.

Now I've heard that rebuilt motors have a hard time starting but didn't think it would give us this much trouble! Once we have tested everything we will try again, and again, and again..... until she fires. From what the motor did do I am very hopeful for this build! The first night we tried firing her up she did pop out a loud bang and she was putting out little puffs of smoke/vapor. Maybe timing is off? I have an atkins pulley and the timing marks are on it so I don't think that is the problem but who knows at this point. We went over the coil pack grounding points and all are cleaned to bare metal so that is ruled out. I'm just ranting now...

rabernathy87

If it's possible for you to give the injectors power and be able to see them try that. Helped my brother swap a Beams into a Corona and spent about all day tinkering with everything then we tried that and fired up immediately afterwards. They were gummed up decently from sitting. I'll try to find the tool he used but it was a power probe and they do run pretty spendy.

I know you can smell fuel so just throwing ideas your way.

I believe this is what we were using trying to diagnose everything and how we gave the injectors power http://www.powerprobe.com/product.php?iProductID=3

ItsJBohmzB

That's a little pricey for me sir, I will probably have them sent out to be rebuilt due to the age of the vehicle. I'm still not certain fuel is my issue at the moment though.

The emissions removal may be the culprit and I will have to make sure I did everything correctly. I know it isn't too complicated, but finding a write-up that explains the vacuum after would be great. I think I did the emissions removal right but will have to double check my work.

rabernathy87

Yeah I hear you there, that's why I don't have one yet as well

Haven't done emissions removal on mine yet so not much I could say other than to go through the walk through again and double check, but at any rate good luck!

ItsJBohmzB

So I have no tach when trying to start the car which leads me to believe the trailing coils are not grounded properly or shot all together. I didn't have any issues when the car was running though so I'm not sure if that would be the case. Would this cause any kind of issue during start up?

As mentioned multiple times on this forum should I try to push start the car? I've heard of a lot of people doing this and having great results, but I am wondering if that should be done as a last resort?

I will be going over to the car today after work to check spark and fuel, and this weekend I should be able to do a compression test. If all is good should I push start her? I'm not sure on what to do at this point so any advice would be greatly appreciated.

Thank you!

ItsJBohmzB

So we tried starting again today and had no luck at first. I went over grounds and I guess forgot to button one up. The ground for the engine fuse block was not completely right and it blew the EGI Comp. fuse.

But before I found that out we tried push starting the car a few times and of course that didn't work haha. After trying a few times I started moving wires around and found a on issue. When I would move the fuse block wires my hazards would short out. So upon further inspection I found they weren't tight. So needles to say I felt pretty dumb but happy at the same time.

We tried firing her up after the fuse was replaced and the fuse block was tightened but I flooded her... By that time it was 8:30 and I didn't feel like waking the neighborhood and called it a night. I will update tomorrow with results and possibly post some pics/vids of start up.

rabernathy87

Awesome to hear it's hopefully something so simple! I had a bunch of problems with shorts as well but I can't find any of mine

ItsJBohmzB

Turns out I have a leaky injector... My car has some electrical issues but mainly in the idiot light cluster. Hopefully after the rebuild most of the kinks will have been sorted out. The tach didn't work on cold starts before and now it blips even when trying to turn over in the cold.

ItsJBohmzB

Had my buddy drop the injectors off to be rebuilt today and we will have them in the car tonight. Hopefully that is all the problem is but we shall see.

rabernathy87

You have any luck with it yet?

ItsJBohmzB

Got her fired up with a little towing!
I will be posting videos shortly.

ItsJBohmzB

Video #1

Video #2

Video #3

She has a few issues still but nothing too big.

She still won't start on her own but she did go around the block very nicely.

Overall I am happy and glad the car was idling on it's own.

I built a Wankle!!

ItsJBohmzB

Still a lot of work to be done though!!

rabernathy87

Nice man, glad to see you figured out some of the problem!

ItsJBohmzB

Thank you, I'm sure the fact that it won't start on its own is the fact that I reused the housings. Once the seals set in I am hoping the compression numbers go up.

ItsJBohmzB

Here are a couple videos of the car running.



That is all I have for now.

She seems to have a slight vacuum leak and a noise coming from the diff. We will drain all the fluid this week and hopefully hunt the vacuum leak down.

Johnny Kuro

very nice! i am looking into rebuilding and porting soon. having never done it but being very mechanically inclined, how difficult is it? also what is the intake and e fan setup you have? looks really good!

ItsJBohmzB

Mechanically it was not to complicated as long as you have the correct tools for the job. I have no idea which radiator and fan I have due to the fact that the car came this way. All I know is do not set the fan up to run constantly as the previous owner did. This will result in an engine that never reaches temp. The intake was made out of Autozone intake tubing of random size and angles and is not the best in the world. Thanks for the kind words and you aproval.

MjhRotor

iTrader: (1)

Unless the thermostat is stuck open or partially open you could have a monster of a fan run constantly and it should still reach operating temp.

ItsJBohmzB

Okay so the car is home now and it made it to the house on its own power. Now when I finally got home the car died as soon as the e-fan turned on. I adjusted the idle and and started the car back up only to find a surging idle. I started to hunt down the vacuum leak (or what I think is one) and found that the TB elbow where it meets the TB had been leaking. So I sealed that off and waited overnight to start her up only to find a crazy surge at idle, even before fully warmed up. This surge goes from 1200 RPMS to roughly 1600 RPMS and seems to get worse as I let the car run. Now I will be doing some more vacuum testing this afternoon to see if I can find the issue, and I have already done a few tests with what tools I have and found several leaks that have been fixed.

Now being that I am new to this (kind of) and have removed all emissions I was wondering if this could have anything to do with my issues? When I say removed emissions I mean everything, BAC, ACV, EGR, all solenoids, everything has been removed. I've even modded the throttle body which could possibly cause issues I believe. Anyone have any information for me? I would really appreciate some words of wisdom.

Like I said though, tonight I will be doing a complete vacuum test to see if I can find anymore problem areas and I will update as soon as I have results.

Thank you!

ItsJBohmzB

My car never reached operating temp with the e-fan ran constantly, even in the heat of Arizona. Most of the time my temp gauge never made it 1/5 of the way up.

MjhRotor

iTrader: (1)

Sounds like there's something wrong in the temp control then as the thermostat shouldn't let water to the radiator until it's at operating temp meaning the fan isn't cooling anything that isn't already uncirculated and cold anyways. The wind from the fan will not air cool a running engine. Possibly stuck open t stat.

As for idling horrible deleting the bac is a bad idea that IS the idle control nothing to do with emissions. Also when looking for vacuum leaks be sure to look for metered air leaks. Metered air leaks are anything after the maf but not necesarily vacuum. They are equally important and won't be found with the normal brake cleaner spraying and such. Smoke machines are ideal.

When you delete everything you also have no control for bringing the idle up under load like power steering or your alternator chugging it down when your fan kicks on.

ItsJBohmzB

Thank you for the words of wisdom, I have already considered reinstalling the BAC after readIng a bit further into it. Also the engine did have thermostat issues before I rebuilt the motor and I ended up getting a new neck all together.

I used a little compressed air through a nipple on the plenum with some soapy water and found my vacuum leaks. My ACV block off plate has a pretty large leak so I had to reseal it. Also the air mixture screw? on top of the throttle body has a small leak in it.

rabernathy87

With any luck you'll get that all figured out soon. Need to get rid of emission crap on mine as well. How did it run going to your house?