rx7jocke

-Front suspension is taking shape, i got some EVO 9 brake calipers (and evo 325mm discs) that is currently at the powdercoater together with the steering rack, i also started looking for a speedway style swaybar but no one sells them anymore for the FC.

And i have basicly finished up my dash setup, only waiting for new defroster vents from mazdatrix....time to mount the racepack aswell now that i know all electricity is working as it should



The controlpanel consists of main power, coolingfan (forcefeeding 12v if the haltech by some unknown reason stops to control the fan or if i just want to cool the engine when the car is off), heater and the last switch will be street or track tune. I might add some more if needed.
The meters are boost and wideband, i might add an egt but i got everything i need in the Racepack iq3 anyway.

Now i will proceed with the haltech wire loom and makeing an vmount

rx7jocke

New gearbox arrived, BMW gs6-53dz by "chefen"

1000hp capable and very robust! Got friends driving 9sec in 1/4 mile and drifting with 700hp with no problems for 3 sesons now. It is also about 5.5 inches shorter then the stock gearbox and that is the exact amount i have to move the 20b back to mount it in the 13b position, wonder if i can just change the end of the driveshaft? The shifter position is very adaptable but stock seems to work as it ends up about 1cm infront of stock position(only rough measurements). The mounts also ends up in a great position.

rx7jocke

My quest for brakes have been long and painful, i didnt want crap *** big fking heavy china 8pots partly since i will make this a road legal car (sort of) and they only accept well known quality stuff, and i want to keep the moveing weight down, i also cant spend 3k on alcon stuff so i basicly had 2 choises. Evo 7-9/nissan 350z (basicly the same but different mountings) and volvo s60r.
Evo 9 calipers showed up at a great price and they are bolt on.

I have now iceblasted them and will paint them in the same yellow as the controll arms and steering rack, i also ordered ebc yellowstuff and some brembo discs to go with the calipers.

Then i mounted my rebuildt and powdercoated manual steering rack


i also bought a new camera so my coming pics wont suck as much as these ones ^^

unek87

Dammit I want that steering wheel . Can't find one !!! Do with the Evo calipers and rotors it's a bolt thing ? I know I should know this but can't remember if it needed spacers on the hubs

rx7jocke

I thought the steeringwheel was the stock s4 one? The calipers are bolt on you just need to drill the mountingholes in the hub out to 12mm...it takes 30sec per hub. The discs will need to be machined out in the centre to the same diameter as the stock one and they have to be mashined down to 323mm from 325 that is evo stock (30bux and some coffey at the local machineshop). You cal also buy 2-pc custom brake discs with a centrum that is bolt on so you just have to change the outer ring in the future

unek87

That steering wheel from what I know isn't stock s4 , at least here in the states anyway . I have a s4 with the stock wheel replaced with another s4 wheel . From what i know that wheel is either a 1st gen 7 wheel or from a Mazda 323 from what some one else has told me . Can you by chance take a pic of the back of the wheel for a part number or something . Supposedly if it is the 323 it's a nardi wheel which was used on a few other makes and model cars just with different horn pads

rx7jocke

I will check it out for you :-)

rx7inLt

That is the stock euro wheel

rx7jocke

Dry-ice blasted the brake calipers and painted them with 2k brake caliper paint instead of powdercoat since i didnt want to ruin the seals......then drilled out the holes in the hubs to 12mm then bolted em up.
Im very happy with the resut, now waiting for new bleeders and some brake lines


Then i started thinking about brake master cylinder and brake booster....stock would not keep up and my inspection guy wont accept 929 or old legasy master cylinders since it has to be an OBVIOUS upgrade and come from a car that has atleast the hp/tourque/ that the stock 20b has, and the performance it will add to my car.....well that sucked untill he said that he will approve with a dual master brake cylinder setup with adjustable F/R brake ratio. BINGO, this also allows me a custom clutch cylinder so i can go hydraulic release bearing :-)! so i bought and installed some new pedals


And made a simple bracket for the 3 fluid containers (front brake, rear brake and clutch ), and also connected the steering rack.

rx7jocke

Made an aluminum bracket for my dual oil filter setup, gonna powdercoat it later


Finished the front brake lines......now i have to clean all the dust and **** of the enginebay

Broke_A_Baller

iTrader: (26)

Why didn't you tuck the brakes? Those lines kind of look...well ugly running around the bay :p.


But I suppose tucking the brake lines wouldn't be practical for your application?

rx7jocke

I totally agree and i might tuck them, but not untill after inspection, i have to do a special inspection to get it road legal with the 20b and they have to be able to get a good look over the entire brake system, its components and the fittings of the pipes to check for leaks.. not very practical to be forced to remove the front fenders for example, or the dash...it is after all a very fast and simple process to rerout them later on, so it might be next year, this year i might just spray them black.
To get it legal with a 20b in sweden you have to:
-Change the entire brake system to obvious upgrades (calipers rotors brake cylinder and the vacuum assist thingy if you not use dual master cylinders)
CHECK. i solved it with evo9 front calipers and rotors, dual MBC and "fd" rear calipers with the bigger fd rotors
-Or the entire steering assembly (example from right hand to left hand drive.)
i do have changed the steering rack for a manual one and lenghtened the steeringwheel pipe, but thats not enough i think..not needed thou

In addition to this you have change:
-the entire drivetrain (engine,gearbox and rear axel)...changing to a lsd from non lsd and changing the gearing is enough as for rear axel.
CHECK, bmw gearbox and converted from open diff to lsd with different gearing
-the 20b has to be e85converted if you dont use the entire cosmo drivetrain and ecu. CHECK, haltech ps2000 with flex fuel sensor
-the car has to weigh almost 3000lbs at inspection to pass with the 20b hp/tq figures....But there is no rule against adding weight to the car (led blocks lol). CHECK
- instead of the entire drivetrain u can change front and rear suspension....that means u have to build an FD looking suspension onto ur fc.

rx7jocke

so i could not resist.....bought myselfve an FC2000 bumper from shine auto, est delivery june 14!
I hope i have the car ready mid-end july since alot of races are happening then but it looks kind of dark.....

Also test-mounted the evo-brakes....bloody fking hell they are big and thick, i have to use 10mm spacers infront to clear the rims even thou i use 18" wheels

rx7jocke

Engine is almost finished by the rebuilder. Everything is done by rotary performance in sweden.

Spec:
-Totally rebuildt C-series 20b with all new seals, housings where good enough even for ceramic seals so they will be reused.
-Race bearings
-Fully studded
-Mildly ported
-Clearenced and balanced rotors
-Balanced rotating assembly and flywheel/clutch
-2mm seals
-Oil and watermods.......
-Matchported xcessive i take
-primary fuel injectors and all of the omp system blocked off
-AN fittings for oil and water
-FD front cover and trigger
-customised oil pan for fd cover
-Titanium exhaust sleeves
-Tilton twin disc rally clutch with 7lbs flywheel.....

Will arrive within weeks :-)

Sudowoodo

iTrader: (1)

Wow those brakes look amazing! Makes me wish I would've put the STi brakes I had a while back on my FC. I doubt it would've been as easy as the EVO brakes though. Looking forward to you getting the engine!

rx7jocke

Some parts arrived from the lovely USA!
-6x ID1000 with injector sleeves to go with my Xcessive intake. (thanks FFE for super service and a great deal!!)
-Fuel preassure sensor (FFE)
-Primary injector delete kit and 20b manifold flange from mazdatrix
-Gaskets and O-rings and stuff from atkins rotary


only waiting for my hydraulic release bearing to be able to assemble everything......cant wait to get my engine back from the builder!

93singlesnailRX7

iTrader: (8)

Great Progress, cant wait to see it finished.

rx7jocke

Finally got time time to work on my lovely 7!
Got my FC2000 bumper from shine....fits like a glove, it fits even better then my genuin Bomex bumper, the gaps are way better than ever intend them to be (cause racecar ok) and it only need minor sanding.


Then i installed my dual oil cooler setup, setrab of course (since 20b and racecar), 25rows and 330mm wide but mounted on the side, this is the biggest you can fit whitout some serious cutting!They are both mounted with rubber spacers to spare them from vibrations and the mounts are "modified" to bend if i hit something allthou they sit about 100mm higher then my bumper does so...



The front bumper fits like a glove ontop of it but i will enlage the ducts in it to one big rectangle instead of round hole/rectangle:

From the wheelwell:


Tomorrow i will finish the hoses/fittings and everything else oil related!

rx7jocke

A little teaser....more pics will follow as i assemble everything

clokker

iTrader: (2)

When did Michelle Bachmann write Sweden's car laws?
None of that makes a dingleberry's worth of sense.

I can certainly understand the state's interest in ensuring general safety but most of that seems completely arbitrary.
The brakes for instance:
Did the inspector specify the dual MC setup he'd approve and if so, where did his data come from? How is he (or the bureaucracy behind him) figuring out the custom brake setup for your fairly unique vehicle?
Why is a larger OEM booster/MC (aforementioned 929) presumptively assumed to be inadequate but a random unboosted dual cylinder is OK?

Why are you not allowed to drop weight if the engine is swapped?

Why do they care what diff you have?

It's odd because I see some incredibly tricked out cars from Sweden on other sites (I'd love a V-8 Amazon) and they don't seem constrained by the arbitrary/bizarre rules you describe.
Does it have to do with the age of the vehicle?

Would a swap from say, a NA FC to a turbo engine of the same series trigger the same dire avalanche of consequences?

rx7jocke

Hello there and thank you for your response, i will try to awnser as much as i can :-)

First of i will start by telling that the rules apply to me since:
1. My car is newer then 1976
2. Volvo for example (and many american cars) have actually approved most of thier older cars for a higher hp and you can for example build a volvo 240 v8 by using other brakes and i think struts/springs aswell cause volvo got it approved that way. Mazda had none of that when i called them and asked...

So i have 2 laws i have to follow
1: the car had to be so much reengineered its no longer a mazda rx7 (well sort of) and that is adressed by swapping the entire drivetrain (engine, gearbox, differential) and the steering assembly and/or entire front and rear suspension.
2:Since its newer than 1976 the engine must be emissions certefied and come with a catalytic converter.....the 20b actually does that but it forces u to use the cosmo auto gearbox and cosmo diff since the diff gear ratio affects emmisions. It also forces the use of cosmo ECU.

This is adressed by e85 converting it....all you need then is a catalytic converter for it to be emissions legal. It also allows (well you have to) you to use a aftermarket ecu. You are also allowed to change turbo and manifold or mount one if the engine dont have one already.....you cant have more then 15kw per 100kg thou unless your car is not by manufacturer approved for more (most volvos are).

The brakes are the hardest part, i dont know all the guidlines but its different ones for different types of cars. Our cars are light (you get away with 4pots in the front if the discs are 20ISH %larger then stock and also thicker and with more brake pad surface. We also have 50/50 weight distribution and that results in not only different and better rear brakes as usual when doing swaps....it has to be really good ones preferably 4pots but with a smaller disc then up front...they make individual testing and approving so i eill try with the largest fd disc and the "fd" caliper and the supernow caliper spacer. If it fails i will change them for 4 pots and use a second caliper for the handbrakes just for the inspection.

Regarding Master brake cylinder and brake booster.....it is legal to use a booster/mbc but its harder to get it right. If all brake calipers where from lets say a supra both front and back.....the supra mbc and booster would be the obvious choice IF the supra had 50/50 weight distribution such as the rx7...and it doesnt.
If you use dual mbc as i am there are guidelines of what bore on the mbc's to use on a 2500lbs car with 50/50 weight distribution and 4pots in front/floating single piston in the back. They do test it on both the rollers and on the street and a adjustments can take place to get it good.

Many of the rules are outdated if you ask me and the 15kw/100kg is under revision in favor for a individual car to car basis law but its not approved yet. Rules are what they are...atleast there is a way to build a 20b single turbo fc with a full cage and widebodykit/295 tires and have it legal for 500usd worth of paperwork if you follow them and all the mods i have done to my car to follow them i would have done anyway exept for a catalytic converter and a smaller (bolt on ofc) turbo for inspection once every year....adding a cat and change turbo is like 2 hours of work so...

Alot of text but i hope i made it clearer, its a wierd system and fairly outdated but atleast it encurage the entusiast to learn and to engineer and to be able to build your own car, both from scratch and based on another car :-)
EDIT: bizzare enough...this would be easier on a NA fc....5lug swap the bitch and use t2 brakes with the vented rear discs/t2 mbc and booster and use t2 gearbox and rear diff, convert from manual to powersteering or the other way around and you are good to go. It would be an easier/cheaper way but i had my t2 already and wanted race worthy brakes and so on.

clokker

iTrader: (2)

Wow, that was a valiant attempt at an explanation.

Wanna know what Colorado makes you do when you swap an engine (on a post 1975 car)?

You take the car to an inspector/referee (this is free) and he checks that the engine is at least as new or newer than the chassis. He confirms that all the emissions systems original to the new engine are in place and at least plausibly functional and then modifies the VIN info in the state DMV database to reflect the new configuration.

And that's it.
If it'll pass the standard sniffer test, you're home free.

You could zip tie the engine in place...they don't check to see how you did it.
They don't care if the car even has brakes, much less appropriately engineered ones.

A very different approach to be sure.

rx7jocke

started to assemble the engine externals and the lubrication system,

mounted the injectors, fuelrail, OMP blockoff, primary fuel injector blockoff and the remote oil distributor thingy:


oil cooler lines and the dual oil filter assembly:

rx7jocke

So you mean you can just take an FC, mount a singleturbo 20b with 300ish hp with potential for 600 and just roll thru year after year? i wanna move to colorado!

clokker

iTrader: (2)

We have legal weed too.