Micahs Build-up
The $60 turbo... Appears to be S4, there's a picture of the correct flange [with all the bolt holes rectangled up..]
04-03-13, 02:20 AM
#378
J-Spec 2
I managed to get it off without any cracking into the visible areas..
Also, the Prosport 45mm Ambers are by my estimation, ~0.3mm smaller than the holes. Darn near perfect for the S5...
Tomorrow or Thursday, I want to finish up the gauge cluster mods and start trying to figure out how to wire it up.. And get the senders mounted on the engine.
Anyone done that with Prosport's?
I managed to get it off without any cracking into the visible areas..
Also, the Prosport 45mm Ambers are by my estimation, ~0.3mm smaller than the holes. Darn near perfect for the S5...
Tomorrow or Thursday, I want to finish up the gauge cluster mods and start trying to figure out how to wire it up.. And get the senders mounted on the engine.
Anyone done that with Prosport's?
04-07-13, 04:18 AM
#380
JSpec 4
Overall, the JSpec cluster mod went fairly well... Though I did screw up one of the brackets a bit [length from the inside of the bracket to the ends sticking out should be ~17mm not 16mm so I had to spend around 45min with vice grips, the vice and a hammer to get it tweaked to work..
Cutting the fuel from the temp gauge was a bit nerve racking... Largely because I was trying to use the cut-off wheel instead of the cutting bit on the Dremel.
I submitted a post to the original JSpec thread asking how they did the wiring but haven't heard back.. I've never had to add anything electrically to an FC [not counting radios, since that's all done with harnesses externally :P]
It looks like Sharingan wired his Prosports to light up whenever the car's on.. Or maybe he had the parking lights on. Either way, it sounds like a great idea to me, so that they'll always appear closer to the stock colors.
The thought of running the gauge power/light/grounds to a trace on the cluster has crossed my mind, but I'm afraid of how much more current I'd be asking the cluster to draw..
What's the usual source for power and ignition power?
Also, got some 3.5mm silicon vacuum hose from The Spyder XD Woo! Now I just have to drag him over to help me get all of that crud figured out.. And tell me where to attach the oil pressure (stock won't work, right?) and coolant temp sensors...
Overall, the JSpec cluster mod went fairly well... Though I did screw up one of the brackets a bit [length from the inside of the bracket to the ends sticking out should be ~17mm not 16mm so I had to spend around 45min with vice grips, the vice and a hammer to get it tweaked to work..
Cutting the fuel from the temp gauge was a bit nerve racking... Largely because I was trying to use the cut-off wheel instead of the cutting bit on the Dremel.
I submitted a post to the original JSpec thread asking how they did the wiring but haven't heard back.. I've never had to add anything electrically to an FC [not counting radios, since that's all done with harnesses externally :P]
It looks like Sharingan wired his Prosports to light up whenever the car's on.. Or maybe he had the parking lights on. Either way, it sounds like a great idea to me, so that they'll always appear closer to the stock colors.
The thought of running the gauge power/light/grounds to a trace on the cluster has crossed my mind, but I'm afraid of how much more current I'd be asking the cluster to draw..
What's the usual source for power and ignition power?
Also, got some 3.5mm silicon vacuum hose from The Spyder XD Woo! Now I just have to drag him over to help me get all of that crud figured out.. And tell me where to attach the oil pressure (stock won't work, right?) and coolant temp sensors...
04-10-13, 08:40 AM
#381
Fortunately, the FC is really easy to work with due to the short patch harness between the chassis harness and the gauges.
Everything you need is already there.
Your new gauges are not going to pull any more current than the stockers did, so no worries there.
You'll need to source a connector set (both sides) with enough pins to handle the three new gauges (6 altogether?).
Tee off the +12v, ground and lighting supply from the intermediate harness.
You can completely intercept the sensor wires and divert them to the new connector.
The two stock cluster connectors (the round ones) still plug in as normal, connect your new plug and you're done.
Everything you need is already there.
Your new gauges are not going to pull any more current than the stockers did, so no worries there.
You'll need to source a connector set (both sides) with enough pins to handle the three new gauges (6 altogether?).
Tee off the +12v, ground and lighting supply from the intermediate harness.
You can completely intercept the sensor wires and divert them to the new connector.
The two stock cluster connectors (the round ones) still plug in as normal, connect your new plug and you're done.
04-27-13, 04:16 PM
#382
Awesome information and suggestion Clokker!
Is there somewhere you prefer to source connectors? [New connectors?]
It looks like I need 5 pins per gauge: +12, -12, +12 key ON, + Sensor, - Sensor [and one more for the pressure sensor] There's also an illumination wire, but I figured that could be tied into key ON? I'd like illumination to be on whenever the car is to give it a little more stock look.
Could I eliminate the key ON and just run +12, Key ON, and Illumination all together? 13 pins total.
It looks like I'll have to run cables anyway with the extra sensor wires..
About the picts for today:
Did the Icemark relay mod to the headlight switch harness.
Current state of engine... Also, the ID1000s are 1/4" taller than stock, so I had to get some spacers from Wilco. [Actually, the waterpump housing is off right now, The Spyder drilled and tapped the Prosport water temp sensor into it for me ^_^ ]
Is there somewhere you prefer to source connectors? [New connectors?]
It looks like I need 5 pins per gauge: +12, -12, +12 key ON, + Sensor, - Sensor [and one more for the pressure sensor] There's also an illumination wire, but I figured that could be tied into key ON? I'd like illumination to be on whenever the car is to give it a little more stock look.
Could I eliminate the key ON and just run +12, Key ON, and Illumination all together? 13 pins total.
It looks like I'll have to run cables anyway with the extra sensor wires..
About the picts for today:
Did the Icemark relay mod to the headlight switch harness.
Current state of engine... Also, the ID1000s are 1/4" taller than stock, so I had to get some spacers from Wilco. [Actually, the waterpump housing is off right now, The Spyder drilled and tapped the Prosport water temp sensor into it for me ^_^ ]
05-03-13, 02:57 AM
#384
Quick update:
Ordered a pair of 8-pin connector sets to do the Prosport wiring [got them off of Eastern Beaver Company, along with some fuel injector connectors so that I hopefully won't have to modify the engine wiring harness - the ID1000's have a different connector included in the box, so I should just have little adapter harnesses]
Had a friend take the flywheel to Ott's Friction Supply to have it properly ground [to kill all those heat spots you can see in the pict] and it looks awesome! Pict soon! [$45, they have actual machining equipment so the surface is ground perfectly, and it looks like they glass beaded the whole thing. Much better than the $20-and-still-heat-spots O'reilly job...]
Just remembered that I need to get an adapter to wind the Prosport oil pressure sender in.. I'll try to order one tomorrow.
Also this weekend I'm planning to get the elbow drilled and tapped for the Triumph AIT sensor [electronically compatible with the FD's, but much faster reacting]
Ordered a pair of 8-pin connector sets to do the Prosport wiring [got them off of Eastern Beaver Company, along with some fuel injector connectors so that I hopefully won't have to modify the engine wiring harness - the ID1000's have a different connector included in the box, so I should just have little adapter harnesses]
Had a friend take the flywheel to Ott's Friction Supply to have it properly ground [to kill all those heat spots you can see in the pict] and it looks awesome! Pict soon! [$45, they have actual machining equipment so the surface is ground perfectly, and it looks like they glass beaded the whole thing. Much better than the $20-and-still-heat-spots O'reilly job...]
Just remembered that I need to get an adapter to wind the Prosport oil pressure sender in.. I'll try to order one tomorrow.
Also this weekend I'm planning to get the elbow drilled and tapped for the Triumph AIT sensor [electronically compatible with the FD's, but much faster reacting]
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nrolfes1
3rd Generation Specific (1993-2002)
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