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Picked up Stu Kelleys AN fuel tank cover. I drilled a hole in my stock one for the fuel pump wire when i didnt know any better. This one seals so tight, when i was tightening the 8 alan bolts provided, fuel siphoned up the return line and was leaking all over the top of my fuel tank. Very satisfied with this product.
how thick is that aluminum tank cover plate? I'm curious why it needs to be that thick? great build btw.
how thick is that aluminum tank cover plate? I'm curious why it needs to be that thick? great build btw.
Stu Kelly sells it on his web site. I love it. Comes with Alan head bolts instead of the OEM Phillips Head, so no more stripping. As far as the sealing I'll tell you this; it seals so well, as I was tightening it, fuel siphoned up the return hose and spilled all over the top of the tank. Only comes with two holes for wires in the top grommet, so I had to drill 2 more for the fuel sending unit. Not a big deal. Very satisfied as stated before.
It is that thick because those AN fittings need enough meat to seal properly.
thought those AN fittings were like a bulkhead fitting that sandwiches the plate? I'm guessing using a thick plate just makes it cheaper and easier to make...no welding the fuel pump carrier or machining required...and as mentioned plate seals real nice.
Looks good!! but word to the wise make sure you use some high temp anti-seize on the edges of those front wheel hubs or they will weld them selves to the inside of the rotor!!!
Looks good!! but word to the wise make sure you use some high temp anti-seize on the edges of those front wheel hubs or they will weld them selves to the inside of the rotor!!!
Thanks, that's a good idea. I had to soak the rotors in wd40 over night initially to get them off the hub.
I coat the whole bolt with anti-seize when I do suspension work. It keeps the metal sleeve in the bushing from rusting onto the bolt. If you've ever dealt with that, it's quite frustrating.
Good thing you put those 3.25" front wheel studs in
I believe I have some 15mm spacers I don't need anymore. Let me know if you might want them.
I was thinking 15mm. The tires are barely rubbing the springs, and I mean barley. I'm wondering 5mm will be enough. In gotta put more though into it whether I'll use 15 or 20, but if o decide 15 ill def get back to you.
Did you end up doing anything water/meth injection wise?
Also, you might want to consider going a different route if you were going to use polyurethane throughout the rear subframe etc. I did that to my '86 gxl right after I bought it thinking I was making an improvement. I have since gone back through and removed all of it and replaced with adjustable heim joints and spherical bearings because the poly just binds and doesn't allow the suspension to move. Also it will inevitably start squeaking driving you crazy. Aluminum or delrin diff and subframe risers while replacing the front diff mount with the mazdaspeed competition piece finish things off nicely.
On the wheel topic, I am running some 17x9 +25 wheels with 245/40/17 tires with a 10mm spacer up front and rolled the fenders since I did have it grab the lip once. I had to space them out otherwise the inner lip of the wheel would rub on my old coilovers. Not sure where you are rubbing but I'm assuming it's against the springs? I just got some 17x9 +24 wheels and 235/40/17 Nitto NT01s over the winter to prepare for track days this year. Hoping this setup fits a bit better but shouldn't have any issues since my 245s are working right now. Just food for thought and it lines up almost exactly with what LOF mentioned earlier.
Cool build so far and I like how you are keeping it really simple and only replacing the parts you have to. Keep it goin'!
Last edited by Lavitzlegend; 03-14-17 at 10:47 AM.
Reason: added wheel fitment info
Did you end up doing anything water/meth injection wise?
Also, you might want to consider going a different route if you were going to use polyurethane throughout the rear subframe etc. I did that to my '86 gxl right after I bought it thinking I was making an improvement. I have since gone back through and removed all of it and replaced with adjustable heim joints and spherical bearings because the poly just binds and doesn't allow the suspension to move. Also it will inevitably start squeaking driving you crazy. Aluminum or delrin diff and subframe risers while replacing the front diff mount with the mazdaspeed competition piece finish things off nicely.
Cool build so far and I like how you are keeping it really simple and only replacing the parts you have to. Keep it goin'!
yeah, after some research, i decided to leave the rear bushings alone. They werent that bad anyways. If i do end up changing them, ill go to solid bushings.
As for the water/meth, i decided its not necessary for my hp goal. Just gonna run the Twin Power with some 10.5 race plugs. Steve Kan will be doing my tune on the first, so i trust hell get rid of any hints of detonation with the timing maps.
03-01-17, 01:08 PM
