eage8's SSM/HPDE FC Turbo
05-20-13, 01:43 PM
#102
I think I just need to heavily duct things and maybe add a second stock oil cooler.
05-20-13, 01:52 PM
#103
yeah:
they could use a bit more sealing up in places though. but that won't really help the oil cooler temp much. I think I need to duct some air from behind the radiator into the coil cooler.
05-20-13, 01:53 PM
#104
What I mean is the triangle space between your radiator and your intercooler. That empty space allows the air to flow around your vmount setup instead of through it.
here is what I am referring to.
My oil cooler is mounted directly in front of the radiator to allow fresh air to hit it first (click link, i dont want to clutter you thread with my junk
https://www.rx7club.com/build-thread.../#post11419177).
here is what I am referring to.
My oil cooler is mounted directly in front of the radiator to allow fresh air to hit it first (click link, i dont want to clutter you thread with my junk
https://www.rx7club.com/build-thread.../#post11419177).
05-20-13, 08:20 PM
#107
it really depends on your front wheel size, with 17x8s you can fit 255s easily (with max camber and fender rolling). 17x9s are a bit harder...
it also depends on the tire.... some are wider than others.
this was when I test fit a 255 toyo all season (poxies4 I think?) on a 17x9. it's as close to the strut as I could get it (ended up at +25 I think)
it actually fit better on the other side...
it also depends on the tire.... some are wider than others.
this was when I test fit a 255 toyo all season (poxies4 I think?) on a 17x9. it's as close to the strut as I could get it (ended up at +25 I think)
it actually fit better on the other side...
05-21-13, 10:25 PM
#110
just to be clear, my oil temps weren't what caused my engine to blow. I was having random lean spikes and just detonated and lost an apex seal.
05-22-13, 09:17 AM
#112
Damn, that sucks man. Hopefully there wasn't too much damage done to everything. OR, there was so much damage you must now build yourself a badass motor, ported with nice new housings and all!
Either way, this is an amazing, beautiful built car, I'm very jealous.
Any info on what was causing the lean spikes?
Either way, this is an amazing, beautiful built car, I'm very jealous.
Any info on what was causing the lean spikes?
05-22-13, 01:12 PM
#113
Originally Posted by driftxsequence
oh okay. I assumed you custom built your vmount.
Someone correct me if I'm wrong but the oil cools the rotors from the inside. is there a chance the lean condition was from the rotors being hotter than normal?
Someone correct me if I'm wrong but the oil cools the rotors from the inside. is there a chance the lean condition was from the rotors being hotter than normal?
Damn, that sucks man. Hopefully there wasn't too much damage done to everything. OR, there was so much damage you must now build yourself a badass motor, ported with nice new housings and all!
Either way, this is an amazing, beautiful built car, I'm very jealous.
Any info on what was causing the lean spikes?
Either way, this is an amazing, beautiful built car, I'm very jealous.
Any info on what was causing the lean spikes?
I really don't know why it was running so different half way through the second session forward. might have been a dying fuel pump maybe I cooked a fuel injector... who knows.
05-23-13, 09:42 AM
#114
update on the engine.
I took the turbo off last night, it's fine so that's good.
this was the cause of the exhaust leak:
not sure why that blew at the same time.... especially since it blew on the front rotor exhaust port. *shrug*
Here is the offending apex seal:
doesn't look good... rotor is toast, I imagine so is the housing, we'll see when I take it apart. I'm going to try to throw some 9.7:1 compression (S5 NA) rotors in it.
if anyone has any S5 NA rotors, let me know.
I took the turbo off last night, it's fine so that's good.
this was the cause of the exhaust leak:
not sure why that blew at the same time.... especially since it blew on the front rotor exhaust port. *shrug*
Here is the offending apex seal:
doesn't look good... rotor is toast, I imagine so is the housing, we'll see when I take it apart. I'm going to try to throw some 9.7:1 compression (S5 NA) rotors in it.
if anyone has any S5 NA rotors, let me know.
05-23-13, 05:08 PM
#117
260 is WAY too high for oil. Honestly after all my trials and tribulations with temps i found you really want to keep the oil below 220 for extended track use. Some even say bearings cant handle any more than about 210 before they can start flaking. (ive not seen evidence of that) But many a builder has told me 220 max, others have said 250 max. I like to be conservative. 
Realistically for a track FC making your power it's time for a 2nd oil cooler. Piped in parallel, reverse return fittings arrangement. Don't put them in series.
I did this to my racecar and now i never see oil temps over 200, with some upgraded ducting my water temps are under 200 all the time now too even with the two coolers stacked in front of the rad.
Glad to see you are hitting a real track now!
Realistically for a track FC making your power it's time for a 2nd oil cooler. Piped in parallel, reverse return fittings arrangement. Don't put them in series.
I did this to my racecar and now i never see oil temps over 200, with some upgraded ducting my water temps are under 200 all the time now too even with the two coolers stacked in front of the rad.
Glad to see you are hitting a real track now!
05-23-13, 10:54 PM
#118
260 is WAY too high for oil. Honestly after all my trials and tribulations with temps i found you really want to keep the oil below 220 for extended track use. Some even say bearings cant handle any more than about 210 before they can start flaking. (ive not seen evidence of that) But many a builder has told me 220 max, others have said 250 max. I like to be conservative.
Realistically for a track FC making your power it's time for a 2nd oil cooler. Piped in parallel, reverse return fittings arrangement. Don't put them in series.
I did this to my racecar and now i never see oil temps over 200, with some upgraded ducting my water temps are under 200 all the time now too even with the two coolers stacked in front of the rad.
Glad to see you are hitting a real track now!
Realistically for a track FC making your power it's time for a 2nd oil cooler. Piped in parallel, reverse return fittings arrangement. Don't put them in series.
I did this to my racecar and now i never see oil temps over 200, with some upgraded ducting my water temps are under 200 all the time now too even with the two coolers stacked in front of the rad.
Glad to see you are hitting a real track now!
There seems to be a lot of info out there about what is "ok" as far as oil temps go, most of the rotary specific info I've seen is much lower... (racingbeat says 205*F lol)
I've been on the track with my corolla for about a year and a half... it has taken a lot of work to get my FC to a point where I felt decently comfortable with it on the track... and I still blew it up
you think mazdaspeed race rotor bearings are worth it?
05-24-13, 08:32 AM
#119
I was speaking with my builder and he said the race rotors arent worth it as much as going with FD stat gears as there are more locations for oil to enter to the bearings.
@rocklobster 270hp is too much for the stock oil cooler? Guess I'd better try and find a second oil cooler...
@rocklobster 270hp is too much for the stock oil cooler? Guess I'd better try and find a second oil cooler...
05-24-13, 08:40 AM
#120
I was speaking with my builder and he said the race rotors arent worth it as much as going with FD stat gears as there are more locations for oil to enter to the bearings.
@rocklobster 270hp is too much for the stock oil cooler? Guess I'd better try and find a second oil cooler...
@rocklobster 270hp is too much for the stock oil cooler? Guess I'd better try and find a second oil cooler...
05-24-13, 09:29 AM
#121
I tried good ducting to a single stock Oil cooler and it really didnt make a difference, this is a 175WHP stock port NA i am talking about too. The bumper opening was larger and i had half of it ducted straight through the cooler. But once i put in the 2nd cooler it was like night and day, with two coolers you just need to be sure your rad ducting is proper, if you end up bypassing too much air around the rad being it's hotter after going through the oil coolers your water temps skyrocket (THAT cost me an engine).
The other thing to think about is FD type windowed main bearings. I have all the stage 3 oiling upgrades from pineapple in both my cars (i track both of em), i think it has saved my engines a few times.
Again this is in the arena of racing, longer (than 15 min) lapping sessions and being tucked up behind other cars for extended periods of time. It all adds up. I have only a single cooler in my 240whp turbo and i do 15-20min lapping sessions with that without an issue (as far as i know, i dont measure oil temps in that car). It's mainly about what you are doing with it and for how long.
A car with that kind of grip is using full throttle a lot more than when im lapping my TII with 225 hoosiers/contis. It's all relative to the application.
The other thing to think about is FD type windowed main bearings. I have all the stage 3 oiling upgrades from pineapple in both my cars (i track both of em), i think it has saved my engines a few times.
Again this is in the arena of racing, longer (than 15 min) lapping sessions and being tucked up behind other cars for extended periods of time. It all adds up. I have only a single cooler in my 240whp turbo and i do 15-20min lapping sessions with that without an issue (as far as i know, i dont measure oil temps in that car). It's mainly about what you are doing with it and for how long.
A car with that kind of grip is using full throttle a lot more than when im lapping my TII with 225 hoosiers/contis. It's all relative to the application.
05-24-13, 09:44 AM
#122
great build thread here, i am running the same setup (fab it up myself) and I plan on moving the oil cooler for better cooling, now this 2nd oil cooler thing is making me rethink.
Space is tight and limited in the FC, i was planning to put the oil cooler in front of the rad same postion and height just in fromt of the rad instad of behind the rad( not block rad) as that void is where the fan is blowing all that hot air as present, the reason i guess for the heat soak.
But this 2nd oil cooler think got me thinking.... any pics or ideas where to locate these two oil coolers.
Space is tight and limited in the FC, i was planning to put the oil cooler in front of the rad same postion and height just in fromt of the rad instad of behind the rad( not block rad) as that void is where the fan is blowing all that hot air as present, the reason i guess for the heat soak.
But this 2nd oil cooler think got me thinking.... any pics or ideas where to locate these two oil coolers.
05-24-13, 09:54 AM
#123
I've already talked to Ben from Rotary Extreme and he's going to attempt to fix the issue. (this was the very first kit on a customer car that I'm aware of)
I think I'm just going to stack them both in front of the radiator and intercooler we'll see how it goes.
something like this:
I can always add more ducting if it needs it.
05-24-13, 10:09 AM
#124
That's basically what I did except the top oil cooler is tilted slightly forward and my rad is in the stock location of course. i will try to take some pictures but all i really did was run a piece of flat stock with two holes drilled into it on each side from the stock oil cooler brackets up to the rad core support (IIRC) then mounted the 2nd oil cooler there.
05-24-13, 10:16 AM
#125
I tried good ducting to a single stock Oil cooler and it really didnt make a difference, this is a 175WHP stock port NA i am talking about too. The bumper opening was larger and i had half of it ducted straight through the cooler. But once i put in the 2nd cooler it was like night and day, with two coolers you just need to be sure your rad ducting is proper, if you end up bypassing too much air around the rad being it's hotter after going through the oil coolers your water temps skyrocket (THAT cost me an engine).
The other thing to think about is FD type windowed main bearings. I have all the stage 3 oiling upgrades from pineapple in both my cars (i track both of em), i think it has saved my engines a few times.
Again this is in the arena of racing, longer (than 15 min) lapping sessions and being tucked up behind other cars for extended periods of time. It all adds up. I have only a single cooler in my 240whp turbo and i do 15-20min lapping sessions with that without an issue (as far as i know, i dont measure oil temps in that car). It's mainly about what you are doing with it and for how long.
A car with that kind of grip is using full throttle a lot more than when im lapping my TII with 225 hoosiers/contis. It's all relative to the application.
The other thing to think about is FD type windowed main bearings. I have all the stage 3 oiling upgrades from pineapple in both my cars (i track both of em), i think it has saved my engines a few times.
Again this is in the arena of racing, longer (than 15 min) lapping sessions and being tucked up behind other cars for extended periods of time. It all adds up. I have only a single cooler in my 240whp turbo and i do 15-20min lapping sessions with that without an issue (as far as i know, i dont measure oil temps in that car). It's mainly about what you are doing with it and for how long.
A car with that kind of grip is using full throttle a lot more than when im lapping my TII with 225 hoosiers/contis. It's all relative to the application.
Originally Posted by driftxsequence
I was speaking with my builder and he said the race rotors arent worth it as much as going with FD stat gears as there are more locations for oil to enter to the bearings.
I'd like to do anything I can while I'm in there to make it better/more reliable
I wasn't talking about race rotors (that might be a mistype?) I was talking about the competition bearings:
Originally Posted by mazdaspeed
Competition bearings have 0.04 inch deeper oil groove and provide 0.0005 inch more clearance than stock bearings. Thinner overlay material improves bearing service life.