eage8's SSM/HPDE FC Turbo
08-07-14, 11:48 AM
#526
to put that in perspective... that's 13* per direction, and I measured the angle of the ball joint stud at 14*, so at ride height if you have parallel control arms the bearing will already be binding without any suspension droop. the bearing will actually be holding your suspension up, not the spring....
08-08-14, 10:27 AM
#528
to put that in perspective... that's 13* per direction, and I measured the angle of the ball joint stud at 14*, so at ride height if you have parallel control arms the bearing will already be binding without any suspension droop. the bearing will actually be holding your suspension up, not the spring....
08-08-14, 07:30 PM
#530
Getting things together for the autocross sunday...
My wideband controller got back from being fixed under warranty! (thanks techedge
)
Moved the sensor to right after the downpipe which is roughtly 3 feet from the turbo to try to make it last a little longer and not have to deal with heat sinks. I also didn't want to have to deal with welding onto the ceramic coated downpipe...
I used a vibrant stainless saddle bung and turned out nice:
I also realized that the snap ring grooves in my new AWR camber plates were too wide and the bearing had some play because of it... *sigh* I'm getting pretty tired of fixing AWRs sloppy work... I probably won't be buying anything from them again.
good news, I hunted around on mcmaster car and found some metric snap rings that were thicker (1.5mm instead of .05") and they fit perfect!
while I was ordering stuff I picked up some new bolts that give me a lot more clearance because they don't stick up as high... I'm planning some more major surgury on the camber plates, but this will do for now:
My wideband controller got back from being fixed under warranty! (thanks techedge
)Moved the sensor to right after the downpipe which is roughtly 3 feet from the turbo to try to make it last a little longer and not have to deal with heat sinks. I also didn't want to have to deal with welding onto the ceramic coated downpipe...
I used a vibrant stainless saddle bung and turned out nice:
I also realized that the snap ring grooves in my new AWR camber plates were too wide and the bearing had some play because of it... *sigh* I'm getting pretty tired of fixing AWRs sloppy work... I probably won't be buying anything from them again.
good news, I hunted around on mcmaster car and found some metric snap rings that were thicker (1.5mm instead of .05") and they fit perfect!
while I was ordering stuff I picked up some new bolts that give me a lot more clearance because they don't stick up as high... I'm planning some more major surgury on the camber plates, but this will do for now:
08-11-14, 10:05 AM
#532
Weekend went pretty well. I decided to blow away my ignition table on saturday and revert back to a super conservative table Aaroncake made due to a slight knock issue I couldn't get rid of. It seems to have taken care of it.
I also got my idle valve working again (it has been disabled since I fried the circuit, but the MS3X card I installed a while ago has a different circuit build in and I never bothered turning it back on...) So the car idles at 1000 rpm now instead of 2000 when warm
I also spend some time tuning the car a bit better on the way to the autocross lol.
The autocross went ok, but I couldn't drop any time after my 2nd run... I think my tires just weren't up to it... or just got too hot. I'll have to treat them with Formula V again, it really helped when I did it before the last race:
https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/pr...asp?RecID=9220
I really do need to get the ignition map dialed in... the lack of response coming out of corners is pretty brutal.
I beat the guy in the C6 Z06 again which is nice, but I didn't do nearly as well compared to the XP cobra guys as I normally do...
http://www.wdcr-scca.org/SoloAutocro...fault.aspx#ssm
I also got my idle valve working again (it has been disabled since I fried the circuit, but the MS3X card I installed a while ago has a different circuit build in and I never bothered turning it back on...) So the car idles at 1000 rpm now instead of 2000 when warm
I also spend some time tuning the car a bit better on the way to the autocross lol.
The autocross went ok, but I couldn't drop any time after my 2nd run... I think my tires just weren't up to it... or just got too hot. I'll have to treat them with Formula V again, it really helped when I did it before the last race:
https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/pr...asp?RecID=9220
I really do need to get the ignition map dialed in... the lack of response coming out of corners is pretty brutal.
I beat the guy in the C6 Z06 again which is nice, but I didn't do nearly as well compared to the XP cobra guys as I normally do...
http://www.wdcr-scca.org/SoloAutocro...fault.aspx#ssm
08-12-14, 08:14 AM
#534
if you take a bolt out of the GC plate it helps:
I just replaced the bolts on my AWR plate with these, but I can't utulize any of the extra room without loosing camber, so I need to work on that:
McMaster-Carr
08-12-14, 05:54 PM
#535
the top plate design is pretty much exactly the same. The AWR plate has a bigger bearing which actually limits camber a bit more. The bolts the AWR plate come with are similar to the GC plate and the same thing happens:
if you take a bolt out of the GC plate it helps:
I just replaced the bolts on my AWR plate with these, but I can't utulize any of the extra room without loosing camber, so I need to work on that:
McMaster-Carr
if you take a bolt out of the GC plate it helps:
I just replaced the bolts on my AWR plate with these, but I can't utulize any of the extra room without loosing camber, so I need to work on that:
McMaster-Carr
I can see on your awr plate, that if you had less camber, the castor would be able to get pulled back a little more to that rounded Allen bolt. I can't see the limitation on the slot of the plate, but it looks like I would be able to get more castor if desired. But like I said, I haven't gotten a chance to put my car on an alignment machine yet, still working on stuff
09-17-14, 02:29 PM
#536
Haven't been working on the FC much... too busy fixing the rallycar/daily driver.
But there is a 2 back to back autocrosses this weekend which should be fun, until then you guys can drool over rallycross:
I got 1st in the northeast divisional rallycross national challange and 2nd in the great lakes divisional rallycross national challange over the last few weeks
But there is a 2 back to back autocrosses this weekend which should be fun, until then you guys can drool over rallycross:
I got 1st in the northeast divisional rallycross national challange and 2nd in the great lakes divisional rallycross national challange over the last few weeks
09-22-14, 04:53 PM
#538
Last 2 autocrosses of the year were last weekend. (I have a rallycross during the one in october) and I forgot my camera on Saturday...
I tried to do both days on 1 tank of gas, and it didn't quite work out, I started fuel starving on my second run (3/8" of a tank is not enough with 315 hoosiers...)
On my last run I also filled my oil breather tank which wasn't fun, the oil splashed onto my exhaust and started smoking pretty good.
I won my class on Saturday, but overnight the guy with the Corvette C6 Z06 on fresh hoosiers discovered how to drive it (or my formula V treated tires fell off...) and lost to him by 0.08 seconds on Sunday
but it was enough to take the local SSM championship for the year. I would have been 4th in XP, beating both the slower kit cobra guys that I'm usually pretty close to. both the very fast cobra guys were there (one with Avon slicks) and a 3rd guy co-driving the Avon Cobra which I lost to by a tenth or so.
Overall I'm fairly pleased with how the car is going. It really deserves some aero and some fresher tires though. Over the winter hopefully I'll get the aero done (6" splitter and a homemade dual element CF wing) and try to get the turbo to spool a bit faster. I need to hook up and tune the megasquirt boost control. I might try some crazy dual solenoid boost control (one for each side of the wastegate diaphragm) that muythaibxr really wants to try out on my car.
Here is a video of my fastest run on Sunday, it's not great.
Thanks!
I tried to do both days on 1 tank of gas, and it didn't quite work out, I started fuel starving on my second run (3/8" of a tank is not enough with 315 hoosiers...)
On my last run I also filled my oil breather tank which wasn't fun, the oil splashed onto my exhaust and started smoking pretty good.
I won my class on Saturday, but overnight the guy with the Corvette C6 Z06 on fresh hoosiers discovered how to drive it (or my formula V treated tires fell off...) and lost to him by 0.08 seconds on Sunday
but it was enough to take the local SSM championship for the year. I would have been 4th in XP, beating both the slower kit cobra guys that I'm usually pretty close to. both the very fast cobra guys were there (one with Avon slicks) and a 3rd guy co-driving the Avon Cobra which I lost to by a tenth or so.
Overall I'm fairly pleased with how the car is going. It really deserves some aero and some fresher tires though. Over the winter hopefully I'll get the aero done (6" splitter and a homemade dual element CF wing) and try to get the turbo to spool a bit faster. I need to hook up and tune the megasquirt boost control. I might try some crazy dual solenoid boost control (one for each side of the wastegate diaphragm) that muythaibxr really wants to try out on my car.
Here is a video of my fastest run on Sunday, it's not great.
Thanks!
10-15-14, 03:12 PM
#546
They make a Giken for the 8.8 now, but I'll probably go with a truetrac to start to keep the budget inline. The benefit of the gears should easily outweigh the benefit of the clutch type diff.
the torsen will help a bit on turn in (because it's open-ish), but the full lock up of the giken will help a lot more on corner exit where it matters most...
This is all only happening if I can sell my current diff for a reasonable amount though. (which you're not doing a great job of helping me with
)
10-15-14, 05:10 PM
#548
Do Helical gear diffs help much for AutoX? It did wonders for my car.
Yes, I went from a S4 clutch type diff (the other stock limited slip option) in my TII to FD Torsen.
The Torsen is awesome on turn in and slaloms as you don't get the light/partial throttle lockup that causes understeer with the stock clutch type.
I found the Torsen basically acts like on open when you have huge torque exiting a corner or even on a straight- the car will kick hard to one side or the other with throttle as the stock Torsen bias ratio isn't enough for double the torque it was intended for.
Also, if you pick up a rear tire (happens over road crown on hillclimbs with my FC) the Torsen acts close to an open diff with much less acceleration than a clutch type.
I haven't driven a Kaaz, OS Giken, etc aftermarket clutch type in an FC for direct comparison-
BUT what I noticed driving my firends GT35R RB25 240SX with one is the huge amount of friction surface provides a lot of progressive biasing before full diff lockup- so you also don't get that partial throttle lockup and understeer like you do with stock clutch type.
You do get close to or even full lockup on hard to full throttle though, so the car actually goes where the steering wheel is pointed instead of kicking out.
damn 240 felt like it was on rails.
Yes, I went from a S4 clutch type diff (the other stock limited slip option) in my TII to FD Torsen.
The Torsen is awesome on turn in and slaloms as you don't get the light/partial throttle lockup that causes understeer with the stock clutch type.
I found the Torsen basically acts like on open when you have huge torque exiting a corner or even on a straight- the car will kick hard to one side or the other with throttle as the stock Torsen bias ratio isn't enough for double the torque it was intended for.
Also, if you pick up a rear tire (happens over road crown on hillclimbs with my FC) the Torsen acts close to an open diff with much less acceleration than a clutch type.
I haven't driven a Kaaz, OS Giken, etc aftermarket clutch type in an FC for direct comparison-
BUT what I noticed driving my firends GT35R RB25 240SX with one is the huge amount of friction surface provides a lot of progressive biasing before full diff lockup- so you also don't get that partial throttle lockup and understeer like you do with stock clutch type.
You do get close to or even full lockup on hard to full throttle though, so the car actually goes where the steering wheel is pointed instead of kicking out.
damn 240 felt like it was on rails.
10-15-14, 06:24 PM
#549
That is what my FC feels like.. It is in the 420 WHP area with a V8. I just do open track and time attack with it. With the helical diff you can feel the outside rear steering the car on exit. I can get back to the throttle sooner after the apex and don't have to manage the throttle nearly as much.
I have a Detroit Truetrac in my 8.8. The bias ratio is 3.5:1, vs. The FD 2:1.
I have a Detroit Truetrac in my 8.8. The bias ratio is 3.5:1, vs. The FD 2:1.
10-15-14, 08:29 PM
#550
http://www.hfintegrale.gr/cms/system...ical+Sheet.pdf
http://www.hfintegrale.gr/cms/system...ical+Sheet.pdf
Why don't more people run 8.8" T-2R torsens? They're 4:1