Cuzzynz 86 Gxl
#101
Senior Member
Thread Starter
well couldnt get the haltech to connect to the computer, found the answer to that issue.. dumb mistake.. so fixed that then get haltech to connect to my laptop.. awesome! basemap on haltech looks ok about to turn the car over and smoke comes out dash.. harness is melting and burning.. so long story short i think my harness is finished and i either have to completely re run it with a new flying lead harness or i can just take the shielding off the harenss and tape.. idk new to this stuff.. not to happy.. last thing i was worried about catching fire was that..
#105
Lacks Ample Funds
iTrader: (1)
Remove the wires from the connector and run those new wires, if those are the only damaged wires. You can buy shielded CAS wire from DIYAutoTune.com
https://www.diyautotune.com/product/...2-gauge-10-39/
If the shielded wires smoked, make sure you absolutely have the grounding run correctly for the shield and that there are no power shorts through those wires. It may have damaged the PCM, but the only way to know is to redo it. You should be able to buy new connector pins to crimp onto the PCM connector end.
https://www.diyautotune.com/product/...2-gauge-10-39/
If the shielded wires smoked, make sure you absolutely have the grounding run correctly for the shield and that there are no power shorts through those wires. It may have damaged the PCM, but the only way to know is to redo it. You should be able to buy new connector pins to crimp onto the PCM connector end.
#108
Senior Member
Thread Starter
yea i will be looking at it later tomorrow, going to pull harness out and check all the wires, and remove and repair anything damaged and make sure things are set up properly cause it keeps blowing a fuse
#109
Senior Member
Thread Starter
fixed harness.. kinda ghetto fix but it seems to not catch fire when key is in the on position.
just need to time and set values and turn it on.. anyone know how to sync timing on haltech to engine?
just need to time and set values and turn it on.. anyone know how to sync timing on haltech to engine?
#114
Senior Member
Thread Starter
well, it works.. it probably needs a rebuild, i think coolant seals are have gone bad. which is ok because then i can do some porting and other little upgrades. like replace some of the lines with SS and upgrade Clutch and Flywheel.
Also thinking i might Paint the engine bay, altho undecided on colour cause black might hide then engine. or repaint it and just patch the holes and little bit of rust.
Also thinking i might Paint the engine bay, altho undecided on colour cause black might hide then engine. or repaint it and just patch the holes and little bit of rust.
#115
Senior Member
Thread Starter
lately i have been helping a friend do some work on his 87 fc.
coils, wheels, mounts etc.
we are working on a Gxl rear end with new bushings and all Powered By Max solid risers and links and some new paint.
then after that, upgrade most of the old bushings and add some new sway bars
then build it a 13b BridgePort N/A
coils, wheels, mounts etc.
we are working on a Gxl rear end with new bushings and all Powered By Max solid risers and links and some new paint.
then after that, upgrade most of the old bushings and add some new sway bars
then build it a 13b BridgePort N/A
#117
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Planning for the Future
after finally getting the Haltech running decent i decided it was time to clean up the wiring harness and engine bay by looming the new harness, and removing all old relays and connectors that now do nothing. after this is done i want to clean up the bay and weld some spots and paint the engine bay. I plan to paint the car later this year, thinking like a aqua teal but i might paint the engine bay a different colour like gunmetal or something that goes good with teal..
also on another note! i finished @northernrx7 (instagram name) rear end up the other day just need to install this into his fc and get it all aligned up for some skids!
also on another note! i finished @northernrx7 (instagram name) rear end up the other day just need to install this into his fc and get it all aligned up for some skids!
#118
Senior Member
Thread Starter
messing around lastnight with some colours and decided that this is the colour im probably going to go with this GM Brite Teal. i tested it on a spare headlight cover. this weekend i plan on spot welding the front strut towers and some other spots to create a little more stiffness. and hit it with some gunmetal paint to make the black and gold in the engine stand out a little more.
#124
Winter Rotary
iTrader: (5)
Single stage refers to the type of refinishing system you'll be using. Almost everyone uses a base/clear "two stage" system.. Urethane was popular, and still is..but these days the trend is shifting to waterborne base coat because it's 'environmentally friendly ', and they spin it off like the color matching is far more accurate on vehicle finishes these days with waterborne vs old urethane base coats.
That being said, waterborne requires some special equipment.
Single stage is good for a non metallic finish... Please be aware that if you go with single stage on a metallic color, you can NOT sand the finish ( say to remove a dirt nib or level out the orange peel). The metallic flake in the single stage paint lays a certain way, and there's no clear coat to protect the flake. So, you end up sanding and buffing on the peaks of the flake in the paint, and you end up with a paint finish that will never be right again.
Single stage is great for straight color. It's cheap, but it comes with its own consequences. Fading is still an issue, and you really should be quite good at laying down material as you only get the one shot at getting it right.
That being said, waterborne requires some special equipment.
Single stage is good for a non metallic finish... Please be aware that if you go with single stage on a metallic color, you can NOT sand the finish ( say to remove a dirt nib or level out the orange peel). The metallic flake in the single stage paint lays a certain way, and there's no clear coat to protect the flake. So, you end up sanding and buffing on the peaks of the flake in the paint, and you end up with a paint finish that will never be right again.
Single stage is great for straight color. It's cheap, but it comes with its own consequences. Fading is still an issue, and you really should be quite good at laying down material as you only get the one shot at getting it right.