Canada JDM S5 Slow Build. (imgH)
08-13-15, 01:21 PM
#1
Canada JDM S5 Slow Build. (imgH)
Hello, I'm Chris from Canada with my overspending getting ripped off long-hall build.
Currently struggling with electronic/fuel pressure issue, building around the problem before aftermarket EMS.
1989-91 FC3S S5 Turbo II _N370-374
Mods: Greddy Front Mount Intercooler, Sard FPR, Fujita Eng DP-back, HKS HQ3 BOV, Koyo Rad, Ele FAN, Battery Relocation, Misc Caps/filters/pods, Cork sport Intake Elbow, Tomei 255 (walbro), Plugs ect.. Interior mods... Suspension: Full PBM bushing and link setup, front mods purchase not installed (Knuckles,spacers,links,bushings,hubs ect.)
Pretty much will add from today onward but this is my last months worth of work.
Currently re-doing fuel car's getting hotttt running lean to my imagination.
Not really into uploading exterior pics: Not in my final form; still an ugly caterpillar.
99% chance these images will be gone in 30days: image-shack... probably facebook link the new ones.
Currently struggling with electronic/fuel pressure issue, building around the problem before aftermarket EMS.
1989-91 FC3S S5 Turbo II _N370-374
Mods: Greddy Front Mount Intercooler, Sard FPR, Fujita Eng DP-back, HKS HQ3 BOV, Koyo Rad, Ele FAN, Battery Relocation, Misc Caps/filters/pods, Cork sport Intake Elbow, Tomei 255 (walbro), Plugs ect.. Interior mods... Suspension: Full PBM bushing and link setup, front mods purchase not installed (Knuckles,spacers,links,bushings,hubs ect.)
Pretty much will add from today onward but this is my last months worth of work.
Currently re-doing fuel car's getting hotttt running lean to my imagination.
Not really into uploading exterior pics: Not in my final form; still an ugly caterpillar.
99% chance these images will be gone in 30days: image-shack... probably facebook link the new ones.
08-13-15, 01:33 PM
#3
Today I'm doing my new Fuel setup: stock setup with replacing FPR
Sard Secoundary and S4 primary rails for -6AN run. Orginally Teflon lining in my fuel lines: cracking so replaced with all new standard -6 Race braid: no lining: more flex no cracking noises.
I didn't like the fact that it leaked at every joint and the inner teflon lining fell off when I removed the fittings to check when i heard the leaks.
Sard Secoundary and S4 primary rails for -6AN run. Orginally Teflon lining in my fuel lines: cracking so replaced with all new standard -6 Race braid: no lining: more flex no cracking noises.
I didn't like the fact that it leaked at every joint and the inner teflon lining fell off when I removed the fittings to check when i heard the leaks.
08-15-15, 02:40 PM
#4
So finished up Friday-This morning saturday: my fuel rail system took four times and breaking the AI sensor tabs. (Warm up idle 3,000rpm- need a new one)
Posting images of my fruit full work and images of unsuccessful full OEM install with double-back routing with a third less routing due to FPR relocation.
Posting images of my fruit full work and images of unsuccessful full OEM install with double-back routing with a third less routing due to FPR relocation.
Last edited by rotor_veux; 08-15-15 at 02:41 PM. Reason: resize d pics
08-15-15, 02:44 PM
#5
I think after my third attempt to tighten the main fitting from the filter: ended up splitting as it was well worn and an off brand length: Good results in the end- no leaks just runs like a bag of turds due to larger injectors and broken AI sensor being broken.
*Purple are 820 and yellow are 620 injectors - Goal under 300 wheel.
*Purple are 820 and yellow are 620 injectors - Goal under 300 wheel.
Last edited by rotor_veux; 08-15-15 at 02:45 PM. Reason: more
08-15-15, 07:26 PM
#6
go at pick-n-pull or boxe-auto by sherwood park , find a Mazda MPV 89-94 ish somewhere in those years , the sensor is the same
i found 3 of them each time i went (went twice)
i haven't look other models 626,323,mx-3,mx-6 but i know MPV works
i might have one kicking around...not too sure tho
nice work by the way
i found 3 of them each time i went (went twice)
i haven't look other models 626,323,mx-3,mx-6 but i know MPV works
i might have one kicking around...not too sure tho
nice work by the way
Last edited by 7krayziboi; 08-15-15 at 07:28 PM.
08-16-15, 10:32 AM
#7
Thanks will keep it up.
go at pick-n-pull or boxe-auto by sherwood park , find a Mazda MPV 89-94 ish somewhere in those years , the sensor is the same
i found 3 of them each time i went (went twice)
i haven't look other models 626,323,mx-3,mx-6 but i know MPV works
i might have one kicking around...not too sure tho
nice work by the way
i found 3 of them each time i went (went twice)
i haven't look other models 626,323,mx-3,mx-6 but i know MPV works
i might have one kicking around...not too sure tho
nice work by the way
Look nicer with a braided line replacing the BAC coolant lines and using some nice anodized plates to match my other ones.
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08-22-15, 08:17 PM
#8
Weekend Throttle body
Decided to work on my throttle body to fix my 3,000rpm idle/warmup < wouldn't decrease on any level < 1st gear/throttle ect...
Took some pictures of the Throttle body MOD with my plates removed with shaft/dashpot and cleaned parts with breakcleaner and paint thinner/gas to get them shiny again. Will go to carwash and spray it down for some new pics.
Sunday planning on using SS line to get Housing Coolant line for thottlebody relocated to the BAC splitter just by re-routing around the removed TB in/outlets and installing my clean and easy to remove TB.
Took some pictures of the Throttle body MOD with my plates removed with shaft/dashpot and cleaned parts with breakcleaner and paint thinner/gas to get them shiny again. Will go to carwash and spray it down for some new pics.
Sunday planning on using SS line to get Housing Coolant line for thottlebody relocated to the BAC splitter just by re-routing around the removed TB in/outlets and installing my clean and easy to remove TB.
08-23-15, 08:59 PM
#9
That's all for now..
Sunday- installed the new manifold/TB, ran decent the 3,000rpm cycle was caused by both the BAC/Thermowax. So that issue is resolved, but now I'm in need of a tune and figuring out the IAC sensor to get the BAC running properly. So essentially going to remove BAC as It opens and closes properly but, won't respond to throttle.. Block off plates would be my only solution.
Next update will be probably be body-work or dyno/base-tune.
Next update will be probably be body-work or dyno/base-tune.
Last edited by rotor_veux; 08-23-15 at 09:01 PM. Reason: info
08-29-15, 09:47 PM
#10
Good stufff
Fixed my fuel pressure issue: Needed to decrease fuel pressure on regulator and adjust the MAF to a leaner state.
Next order is to replace that silly AIT sensor and try the bac out again to get some new flow. More importantly I need to get my Oil metering system new lines as I must be losing alot of pressure with the system.
Next order is to replace that silly AIT sensor and try the bac out again to get some new flow. More importantly I need to get my Oil metering system new lines as I must be losing alot of pressure with the system.
08-30-15, 11:46 AM
#12
Ohh
Ohh, I'm planning on getting new lines made: looking for sizing on the S5 electric OMP to get it going, then stop by greggs and order everything probably 40bucks.
The BAC I had taken off and it looks like new.... I've never had issues with oil getting into my return and intakes so I gave it some power and it open and closed with no issues.
I found an AIT was soaked in gas and oil mixture > Garbage. I'm planning on buying a Sard Multifan controller and new lines for my next project.
AIT Sensor for only $50.00 Canadian *cheap jdm-plant.com
09-05-15, 04:21 PM
#13
Omp
Re-did my Oil metering pump: 2 of them broke under touching the others just rockhard.
I didn't get to see the Oil actually flow, but the car wasn't at temperature nor did I fix my AIT. So currently can't say it doesn't work but I was told the eletronic system will force you into limp-mode and check engine light will come on.
(My idiot cluster shows all functioning, I do have my "heat" warning light due to the sensor under the exhaust was removed.
Aside that info: The lines and crimps cost me a total of $55.00CAD or I could buy them at 214.00CAD via Atkins/mazdatrix
I didn't get to see the Oil actually flow, but the car wasn't at temperature nor did I fix my AIT. So currently can't say it doesn't work but I was told the eletronic system will force you into limp-mode and check engine light will come on.
(My idiot cluster shows all functioning, I do have my "heat" warning light due to the sensor under the exhaust was removed.
Aside that info: The lines and crimps cost me a total of $55.00CAD or I could buy them at 214.00CAD via Atkins/mazdatrix
09-11-15, 10:32 AM
#14
Work today..
Will do a coolant flush after I remove the Radiator and fill it with CLR, then distilled water then re-use my current anti-freeze (2weeks old)_Frost at night.
On the weekend Ill be installing Modified knuckles, Aluminum Hubs, and Uras Tie rods with GP-sports angle kit, this will give me roughly 72* if I install my spacers I'll have around 74*, this isn't possible without modified ball joints: so no spacers.
Will attempt some of the suspension tomorrow.
Flush was ok, not needed - The issue is just air flow related : BIG FMIC + One radiator fan = Fail... Nothing pulling in cool air past the radiator just a fan to disperse hot heat.
Which means I get no cool air from the outside to the Oil cooler or the Rad = Only Thing that I get is a cool air intake but fluids don't get anything. (Next week - Post wire up of 2nd fan+controller which I mounted behind the inter-cooler floating; due to no room.
Teaser
On the weekend Ill be installing Modified knuckles, Aluminum Hubs, and Uras Tie rods with GP-sports angle kit, this will give me roughly 72* if I install my spacers I'll have around 74*, this isn't possible without modified ball joints: so no spacers.
Will attempt some of the suspension tomorrow.
Flush was ok, not needed - The issue is just air flow related : BIG FMIC + One radiator fan = Fail... Nothing pulling in cool air past the radiator just a fan to disperse hot heat.
Which means I get no cool air from the outside to the Oil cooler or the Rad = Only Thing that I get is a cool air intake but fluids don't get anything. (Next week - Post wire up of 2nd fan+controller which I mounted behind the inter-cooler floating; due to no room.
Teaser
Last edited by rotor_veux; 09-11-15 at 10:41 PM. Reason: Pics
09-11-15, 10:56 PM
#15
when modding the second gens the oil cooler turns into a radiator pre-heater and with most people installing front mounts(reverse thinking) it turns into a boiler. even the largest radiators still can't cool the water temps efficiently without fresh, cool air. unfortunately there isn't enough room to divide everything equally so it takes some creativity. the stock configuration is fine for a mostly stock car, after that it becomes tricky and requires relocating and fabrication work. i still have yet to see a good proper v-mount setup for the second gen in a kit, because the hood latch crossmember turns into an inhibitor. there is plenty of room up front but i just wish the hood catch was at the front of the hood versus in line with the rear of the headlights cutting about 12" of space from where an intercooler could sit without blocking anything.
https://www.rx7club.com/2nd-generati...pgrade-932136/
My problem in a nut-shell Boiler syndrome.
__________________
09-14-15, 07:37 PM
#16
Suspension /weekend
Uploading images of weekend work, Current and only real issue now is the oil temperature as the oil cooler is still hiding. Once I wire on a small fan behind the FMIC should stir that hot air out. Next mods are still Fan-controller - Cusco Brake Brace, Front and rear strut bars or Roll-Cage (Removed going to reinstall... maybe.
So from 34* too around 60-66* flare outs on frame where pounded down- other then that no modifications.
So from 34* too around 60-66* flare outs on frame where pounded down- other then that no modifications.
09-19-15, 08:02 PM
#17
Friday-Sat
Worked Friday and Saturday on the important things : Alignment
If I have time tomorrow I'll install Front and rear sway bars plus BAC block off plate. Mine is obvious failing once plugged in, still stuck at 3000rpm so... removal.
Steering is on 10.5 (6") inner barrels causing it to hit the frame/ lower control arm and washer fluid.
I'll be selling the baller wheels, for something concave with 4.5-5" inners
cusco brake stabilizer , not direct fitment unless you want to run it just off the two bolts. The issue I was having was one on the front and side of the tower caused flex... So you need two on tower and one on the side to fully brace and be stationary, the holes are very tight for application. I have mine heavy pressed to reduce all flex on old chassis.
If I have time tomorrow I'll install Front and rear sway bars plus BAC block off plate. Mine is obvious failing once plugged in, still stuck at 3000rpm so... removal.
Steering is on 10.5 (6") inner barrels causing it to hit the frame/ lower control arm and washer fluid.
I'll be selling the baller wheels, for something concave with 4.5-5" inners
cusco brake stabilizer , not direct fitment unless you want to run it just off the two bolts. The issue I was having was one on the front and side of the tower caused flex... So you need two on tower and one on the side to fully brace and be stationary, the holes are very tight for application. I have mine heavy pressed to reduce all flex on old chassis.
Last edited by rotor_veux; 09-19-15 at 08:08 PM.
09-19-15, 09:41 PM
#18
wow really nice job , you thread seem to go pretty fast, i sadly put few hours every month..haha the reason for my sub - endless build
nice, i knew they have a lot of stuff at gregg's , those omp lines look really good
you probably checked if they can stand the engine bay heat
i got bunch of stuff from a s5 na , if you need anything , i'll almost give them to you
we'll have to go for a cruize one day, probably next summer....i feel snow around the corner
nice, i knew they have a lot of stuff at gregg's , those omp lines look really good
you probably checked if they can stand the engine bay heat
i got bunch of stuff from a s5 na , if you need anything , i'll almost give them to you
we'll have to go for a cruize one day, probably next summer....i feel snow around the corner
09-20-15, 04:00 PM
#19
Fast indeed.
wow really nice job , you thread seem to go pretty fast, i sadly put few hours every month..haha the reason for my sub - endless build
nice, i knew they have a lot of stuff at gregg's , those omp lines look really good
you probably checked if they can stand the engine bay heat
i got bunch of stuff from a s5 na , if you need anything , i'll almost give them to you
we'll have to go for a cruize one day, probably next summer....i feel snow around the corner
nice, i knew they have a lot of stuff at gregg's , those omp lines look really good
you probably checked if they can stand the engine bay heat
i got bunch of stuff from a s5 na , if you need anything , i'll almost give them to you
we'll have to go for a cruize one day, probably next summer....i feel snow around the corner
I went to Edmonton valve and fittings for the Teflon line their rated for 2x the OEM stuff at 400F and above and well over 100psi.
I'll keep attempting to update, but I only seem to work on warm days as well. Probably take a while for my update: Not much left... I have new wheels to tryout and suspension setups and strut braces.. I want to wire up my Sard MFC but that's not working out well. I'll predict next post comes next month.
09-25-15, 12:36 PM
#20
Drift Night went good
Took out the car Thursday night to go drifting for the first time and I got the hang of it on the very last run of the night.
I got laughed at a bit for checking my front tires.... But the rears never got any wear just the fronts from crazy angle that I was braking on.. lol
Good stuff overall lost Rear bumper, Front bumper, Turn signal, and a side skirt. So you know fun was had. Thanks to several good friends Everything went swimmingly.
Issues: Hot Oil temps (85-90kmh highway otherwise heat got up around 90-100.)
Cooled off quick, So thinking it's the air intake for the turbo not getting any cool air plus poor oil quality that hindered the fun slightly.
My 1st picture of exterior for those interested.
I got laughed at a bit for checking my front tires.... But the rears never got any wear just the fronts from crazy angle that I was braking on.. lol
Good stuff overall lost Rear bumper, Front bumper, Turn signal, and a side skirt. So you know fun was had. Thanks to several good friends Everything went swimmingly.
Issues: Hot Oil temps (85-90kmh highway otherwise heat got up around 90-100.)
Cooled off quick, So thinking it's the air intake for the turbo not getting any cool air plus poor oil quality that hindered the fun slightly.
My 1st picture of exterior for those interested.
09-26-15, 10:12 PM
#21
Cooling stuff...
So after drifting practice, I did an oil change like your suppose to after a high rpm night in a rotary...
I had issue with heating while moving? So I put my under-tray on, also a air channel plate in on the biggest area in the engine bay, and I attempted to install some air-ducting with lots of failure. (The duct kept unwinding and ruining it self.)
I also repaired my turn signal and had to make 2 new lenses out of the reflectors on the rear S5 Taillights. *Cool look, smoked yet allows a-lot of light though with clear style. I'll be taking some pictures later too show how it turned out as I over-sized them and will grinding them down tomorrow to fit in the aftermarket bumper.
Posting pics as we all enjoy looking verses reading:
People laughed at me for checking my front tires after a round... You'll see why.
Editing the Turn signals as I'm not a post wh%*$, I post a question and I get freeking people just repeating non related information for a post count...
I had issue with heating while moving? So I put my under-tray on, also a air channel plate in on the biggest area in the engine bay, and I attempted to install some air-ducting with lots of failure. (The duct kept unwinding and ruining it self.)
I also repaired my turn signal and had to make 2 new lenses out of the reflectors on the rear S5 Taillights. *Cool look, smoked yet allows a-lot of light though with clear style. I'll be taking some pictures later too show how it turned out as I over-sized them and will grinding them down tomorrow to fit in the aftermarket bumper.
Posting pics as we all enjoy looking verses reading:
People laughed at me for checking my front tires after a round... You'll see why.
Editing the Turn signals as I'm not a post wh%*$, I post a question and I get freeking people just repeating non related information for a post count...
Last edited by rotor_veux; 09-27-15 at 01:55 PM. Reason: Headlight edit
09-27-15, 06:49 PM
#22
Test RUN of cooling system:
72-80C Oil / Coolant 0-80 KPH heater OFF
Highway: 82-90 Oil 76-78 Coolant 90-110KPH heater ON.
Previously.
80-100 Oil / 77-92 Coolant 0-60KPH heater ON.
Highway: 85-100 / 80-95 85-100KPH heater ON.
Next- Check Oil Cooler condition: Fix fins or replace and check air channels to enhance air flow getting past the intercooler. Only issue to fix now is the Oil temperature to get it steady on highway.
72-80C Oil / Coolant 0-80 KPH heater OFF
Highway: 82-90 Oil 76-78 Coolant 90-110KPH heater ON.
Previously.
80-100 Oil / 77-92 Coolant 0-60KPH heater ON.
Highway: 85-100 / 80-95 85-100KPH heater ON.
Next- Check Oil Cooler condition: Fix fins or replace and check air channels to enhance air flow getting past the intercooler. Only issue to fix now is the Oil temperature to get it steady on highway.
Last edited by rotor_veux; 09-27-15 at 06:54 PM.
10-04-15, 09:22 PM
#23
https://www.rx7club.com/2nd-generati...pulls-1090379/
Last mod for the year.
Next year I'll try for Power FC install/tune and oil catch tank and a secondary electric fan .
10" mishm going with two and stronger 12V switch setup between the FMIC and oil cooler.
Last mod for the year.
Next year I'll try for Power FC install/tune and oil catch tank and a secondary electric fan .
10" mishm going with two and stronger 12V switch setup between the FMIC and oil cooler.
01-22-16, 06:08 PM
#24
New parts coming in.
Posting images, Plug, Plug wires, filters and wheels.
I don't know much about plugs, but these sure don't look like Rotary plugs but I guess you can gap spark plugs on a rotary, but I believe the downside is age look like rx8 plugs *EDIT
Slap a reply if you got any insight on these plugs. RE11's
Will attempt to post updates on body work come next month or sooner.
I don't know much about plugs, but these sure don't look like Rotary plugs but I guess you can gap spark plugs on a rotary, but I believe the downside is age look like rx8 plugs *EDIT
Slap a reply if you got any insight on these plugs. RE11's
Will attempt to post updates on body work come next month or sooner.
Last edited by rotor_veux; 01-22-16 at 07:35 PM. Reason: info
