13.bREW

I got this 89 GTU in about 2006 after owning a 87 for about 3 years before. I rebuilt it when I first got it. Did a terrible job removing the emission and doing some other things like making the VDI not work and the 5-6 ports not getting hooked up. needless to say it ran like **** unless it was wide open throttle.
I finally got to a place in life where I can afford to do the right things to the car. so any help/ criticism is much appreciated. Ill update with pictures as much as I can.... excuse the Iphone Pics I don't do much photography.

This is just the start.....
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misterstyx69

iTrader: (142)

you are on your way...
you already upgraded to the Rotor Style oil cap.
That in itself is a mod that will net you Big HP numbers!

(some of those vacuum lines are sneaky!..I removed the upper and Painter's taped and labelled every one of them PLUS took phone pics.)

13.bREW

I am really taking my time to get it right this time. does anyone have any tips/trick on cleaning my dirty pumpkin without pulling it?

lduley

iTrader: (1)

Thats quite a loaded question.....

Anyways, when you say pumpkin, guessing you mean the rear end cover? Outside would be easy, scotch brite and simple green

13.bREW

Sorry, I meant my engine bare block and I just used a **** ton of brake parts cleaner, shop rags and time.

13.bREW

after a couple hours cleaning.
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I got all the manifold pieces cleaned and mounted. now I just got to get some coolant and hope I did everything right this time .

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13.bREW

Woo Hoo She purrs like a kitten. one thing though at idle the oil pressure drops to almost zero and at the highest when its revving around 4500-5000 the oil pressure only climbs to about. anyone have any advice on that?

lduley

iTrader: (1)

What weight oil you using?

raksj04

iTrader: (1)

I am not sure if the S4 and S5 have a similar oil sender or not, but you could also check the wire to the oil pressure sender. Especially if it just started reading low right after you put it back together.

The only time my car showed 0 psi oil pressure was when the wire fell off the sender. Not saying it is your issue.

13.bREW

I use 10-30 castrol. It was change before it was put in storage 2 years ago and has less than 100 miles on it, I still would like to flush all my fluids.
My wiring looks like garbage so I'll check that also.
I also noticed one of my oil injector lines has bubbles in it when it's idling. Could a oil injector line having a hole in it cause a drop in oil pressure?

raksj04

iTrader: (1)

Not at idle. The omp isn't really injecting much oil at idle. The omp basically adds oil to about 100:1 which is about 1.28 oz per gallon of gas.

RTRx7

iTrader: (2)

Are you looking at the stock oil pressure gauge?

lduley

iTrader: (1)

10-30 is thin oil for rotary, i ran that and had the same problem you are, i bumped up to the recommend 20-50, and it fixed my lower oil pressure. 10-30 is thin for the high temps of the engine

raksj04

iTrader: (1)

I second 20W-50.

13.bREW

yes, Im looking at the stock oil gauge I've heard they might not be the most accurate. Ill also change the oil to 20-50 and see what that does.
The car goes into a limp mode after its warmed up and running a little. is that an oil pressure ting as well?

lduley

iTrader: (1)

Possible, the electric OMP may not be pushing enough oil because it has 0 pressure (aka, your oil is like water) and making the computer think the OMP isn't working

clokker

iTrader: (2)

My engine smokes like crazy with 20w/50 oil, runs great with 10w/30.
No difference in coolant temp or oil pressure between the two.

It's also read between 10-40psi (on a VDO gauge) for the last 75k miles, so you might not have cause to worry.

RTRx7

iTrader: (2)

The stock gauge tends to float and takes a second to stabilize. I don't think the weight of the oil will make your oil pressure non existent. Does the car go into limp mode when the accelerated warm up cycle is finished or when the car gets to a particular temperature?

13.bREW

It happens when it gets through its warming cycle and is driven a bit. I can give it full throttle for a little after it warms up. I had no C.E.L. on before I took the intake off and it seemed like the oil pressure read fine when I parked it from what I remember. I know it has to be something I did in between removal and reassembly.....
I've been reading on how to check the codes through flashing the C.E.L., but I'm dumb so we'll see how that turns out .

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All is well I was showing codes 27 and 37 for the OMP so I was doing a visual check and noticed one of the wires was chaffed for whatever reason so I put a new plug on I had off a spare OMP and.... no lights and she runs great. I also noticed my god damn water pump is leaking so I guess I will be doing more work to her over the weekend....... Never Ending.......

raksj04

iTrader: (1)

We are all in the same boat of never ending issues, fix the brakes now the clutch slips, fix that, now the rear end is making noise, fix that, now you need engine number 3.

13.bREW

Updates......

I pulled my trans to service it and replace the clutch assembly. then I replaced my leaky brake master. Then I installed some cheap coilovers. I have new rotors on the way and im in the middle of rebuilding my calipers.

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I also did a little painting just rattle can to make it one color after auto X season I think I'm going to strip and paint the whole car to get that awful chipping paint off.

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