4-Rotor FC Build
#1901
Senior Member
#1904
Senior Member
Read the article: FEATURE - YUKI KAMAKURA'S QUAD ROTOR 26B POWERED FD3S | 7TUNE
#1905
Eats, Sleeps, Dreams Rotary
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Read the article: FEATURE - YUKI KAMAKURA'S QUAD ROTOR 26B POWERED FD3S | 7TUNE
One interesting quote from the article...
"One really neat party trick that offers some increased milage comes thanks to a little dash mounted switch that cuts fuel to two of the rotors, thereby extending not only engine life but range. The difference to drivability and noise production is night and day. One little switch seemed to turn the FD3S from an axe-wielding murderer into a playful kitten"
Wonder how that works? I'd imagine they are cutting rotors 1 and 3, or 2 and 4? Do the conversion guys. 1080 Kgs = 2380 lbs! Insane!
Last edited by RCCAZ 1; 03-18-15 at 07:17 PM.
#1906
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#1907
Exhaust Manifold Leak
Where they really thinking the water pump wasnt going to slip with that belt design? Also they state they use RX8 rotor housings. So either they converted them to PP exh port or the 2 middle rotors are stuck with these really restrictive exh ports in the narrow intermediate side housings.
#1908
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Where they really thinking the water pump wasnt going to slip with that belt design? Also they state they use RX8 rotor housings. So either they converted them to PP exh port or the 2 middle rotors are stuck with these really restrictive exh ports in the narrow intermediate side housings.
#1909
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That's probably the reason why the engine life is just 20k~30k miles...
I seriously don't get it, most people who go 20B/26B NA do it for "the power of a turbo engine, with the reliability of a NA one"... this engine is 40k USD, develops 550whp (not that hard on a turbo 13B...), and has a short life span
I seriously don't get it, most people who go 20B/26B NA do it for "the power of a turbo engine, with the reliability of a NA one"... this engine is 40k USD, develops 550whp (not that hard on a turbo 13B...), and has a short life span
#1910
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That's probably the reason why the engine life is just 20k~30k miles...
I seriously don't get it, most people who go 20B/26B NA do it for "the power of a turbo engine, with the reliability of a NA one"... this engine is 40k USD, develops 550whp (not that hard on a turbo 13B...), and has a short life span
I seriously don't get it, most people who go 20B/26B NA do it for "the power of a turbo engine, with the reliability of a NA one"... this engine is 40k USD, develops 550whp (not that hard on a turbo 13B...), and has a short life span
#1914
Sorry guys, it looks like there won't be any updates in the near future, since I'm currently helping a few buddys with their cars, and I bought a house which needs work. I have recieved the MS3 from diyautotune, and I've sold my old radiator and sourced a pair of cooler cores and a large 3mm plate of aluminium. To be continued
#1917
Wasted spark plug
To build a proper 4-rotor, you need dedication.
And experience but that's just me sitting here and just comment without even know how to install a light bulb.
I mean, it's a waste not to finish this build...
I think everybody agrees on that one.
But hé! There are so many things that looks interesting when you have that age!
C'mon John, you ow it to us!
And experience but that's just me sitting here and just comment without even know how to install a light bulb.
I mean, it's a waste not to finish this build...
I think everybody agrees on that one.
But hé! There are so many things that looks interesting when you have that age!
C'mon John, you ow it to us!
#1919
Junior Member
I'm not very active here, but I like to lurk now and then to see what people are up to.
This thread is the first in a very long time that I not only read start to finish, but that I felt compelled to post on. Amazing work.
In one thread, you've done the improbable (a "home built" 4-rotor), and the impossible (make me lust for an FC!!!).
This thread is the first in a very long time that I not only read start to finish, but that I felt compelled to post on. Amazing work.
In one thread, you've done the improbable (a "home built" 4-rotor), and the impossible (make me lust for an FC!!!).
#1920
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Hi John,
Are you planning to go to Rotarystock at Lelystad on Saturday, 11th July?
There are about twenty of us from the UK Mazda Rotary Club going and it would be great to meet you!
Are you planning to go to Rotarystock at Lelystad on Saturday, 11th July?
There are about twenty of us from the UK Mazda Rotary Club going and it would be great to meet you!
#1921
Wow John. I have been following this in the background for some time and have read through it from start to finish at least twice. Your skills are incredible. I do a similar line of work although more computer/solidworks based. I don't get to do the hands on stuff as often as I would like. How you had the guts to start the eccentric machining on the E-shaft I will never know. I would still be there measuring and making sure I had got it right! Looking forward to the next instalment of where you take this amazing build next!
#1922
Fistful of steel
iTrader: (7)
That's probably the reason why the engine life is just 20k~30k miles...
I seriously don't get it, most people who go 20B/26B NA do it for "the power of a turbo engine, with the reliability of a NA one"... this engine is 40k USD, develops 550whp (not that hard on a turbo 13B...), and has a short life span
I seriously don't get it, most people who go 20B/26B NA do it for "the power of a turbo engine, with the reliability of a NA one"... this engine is 40k USD, develops 550whp (not that hard on a turbo 13B...), and has a short life span
#1924
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I DID IT! I READ THE WHOLE THING!
Man, John, this is an amazing thread. I kinda want to fly to the Netherlands just so I can buy you a beer. Sadly, I totally can't afford that, so... if you're ever in Albuquerque for some strange reason...
Out of curiosity, how long is the engine, nose to tail?
Also, I know you said you wanted to get away from the slide throttle, but have you considered a throttle plate made of UHMW? You were talking about the tendency to gall as a concern for dropping your clearances, but UHMW wouldn't have that problem. Alternatively, you could do something like oil-impregnated bronze (AKA "Oilite") which might let you put O-rings in the outer intake plate, which would be less likely to drag and roll when the throttle plate was sliding under them, because they'd be lubricated.
Or, yeah, you could just go to butterflies, which also look cool.
Single large oval butterfly under the air filter, into a plenum, into the individual runners? You could even put air horn velocity stacks inside the plenum at that point.
Man, John, this is an amazing thread. I kinda want to fly to the Netherlands just so I can buy you a beer. Sadly, I totally can't afford that, so... if you're ever in Albuquerque for some strange reason...
Out of curiosity, how long is the engine, nose to tail?
Also, I know you said you wanted to get away from the slide throttle, but have you considered a throttle plate made of UHMW? You were talking about the tendency to gall as a concern for dropping your clearances, but UHMW wouldn't have that problem. Alternatively, you could do something like oil-impregnated bronze (AKA "Oilite") which might let you put O-rings in the outer intake plate, which would be less likely to drag and roll when the throttle plate was sliding under them, because they'd be lubricated.
Or, yeah, you could just go to butterflies, which also look cool.
Single large oval butterfly under the air filter, into a plenum, into the individual runners? You could even put air horn velocity stacks inside the plenum at that point.
#1925
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Subscribed. I wish I had grown up around stuff like this, I'm in school for comp sci and this makes me want to take a year off and just learn. Haven't machined anything since high school, and nothing as precise as anything in this thread. You're amazing, your motor is amazing, holy wow. I hope I have the chance to do something like this in the near future, you're an inspiration, sir.