The 10th AE Chronicles
#77
RX-7 Old Timer
Thread Starter
Sorting out the car:
A heat shield seemed to be blocking the twin scroll lever. Ground a section away.
Fixed a coolant leak at the heater core because I forgot to tighten the clamp.
Fixed a high RPM buzz, which was the fan contacting the fan shroud. The washers on the pulley caused the fan to not seat fully. Also the shroud just needed some adjustment upwards.
The car feels a bit quicker than stock. Spool appears to be the same as stock, it and pulls a little harder in the top end. The methanol system seems to be working correctly if I dial it to come on under wastegate boost.
Coolant temp is rock solid at 190F and the highest intake air temp I saw was 130F, at 80F ambient temperature.
AFRs are getting smoother, and closer to 11.0 under load.
Next up, I'm going to fill it with race gas (safety measure), turn on the CO2, and play with high boost. Please hold strong, clutch.
A heat shield seemed to be blocking the twin scroll lever. Ground a section away.
Fixed a coolant leak at the heater core because I forgot to tighten the clamp.
Fixed a high RPM buzz, which was the fan contacting the fan shroud. The washers on the pulley caused the fan to not seat fully. Also the shroud just needed some adjustment upwards.
The car feels a bit quicker than stock. Spool appears to be the same as stock, it and pulls a little harder in the top end. The methanol system seems to be working correctly if I dial it to come on under wastegate boost.
Coolant temp is rock solid at 190F and the highest intake air temp I saw was 130F, at 80F ambient temperature.
AFRs are getting smoother, and closer to 11.0 under load.
Next up, I'm going to fill it with race gas (safety measure), turn on the CO2, and play with high boost. Please hold strong, clutch.
#78
RX-7 Old Timer
Thread Starter
Car is driving nice. It is much more "lively" than it used to be.
Methanol comes on at 7-10PSI. The 150cc pre-turbo nozzle is cooling the charge 10-20C.
AFRs are in the 9s and 10s at boost. Will smooth them out. I'm finding the RTek gets a nice lean spike at the secondary transition, so I'll be adding fuel before the change, as well as leaning out the higher RPM area a bit.
The C02 boost controller is holding that wastegate closed. I have it adding something like 13PSI to the 2nd port of the wastegate actuator. I'm not sure it even opens.
Here is my boost plot. The falloff kinda disappoints me. I feel like the controller might have no more authority to raise boost. Flow restriction? I am on stock mufflers, airbox, and snorkel, after all.
AFM airflow numbers point to something like 230 WHP right now.
Methanol comes on at 7-10PSI. The 150cc pre-turbo nozzle is cooling the charge 10-20C.
AFRs are in the 9s and 10s at boost. Will smooth them out. I'm finding the RTek gets a nice lean spike at the secondary transition, so I'll be adding fuel before the change, as well as leaning out the higher RPM area a bit.
The C02 boost controller is holding that wastegate closed. I have it adding something like 13PSI to the 2nd port of the wastegate actuator. I'm not sure it even opens.
Here is my boost plot. The falloff kinda disappoints me. I feel like the controller might have no more authority to raise boost. Flow restriction? I am on stock mufflers, airbox, and snorkel, after all.
AFM airflow numbers point to something like 230 WHP right now.
Last edited by ColinShark; 06-23-16 at 10:02 PM.
#79
RX-7 Old Timer
Thread Starter
#80
RX-7 Old Timer
Thread Starter
The moment after a pull, peak intake air temps on the open box were 140F vs 127F on the snorkel. During the pull, there was no difference while methanol/water was spraying. Thank you, chemicals.
#81
RX-7 Old Timer
Thread Starter
#82
Lacks Ample Funds
iTrader: (1)
Keep in mind that a factory filter is about 99% effective at actually filtering out the dirt particles, and a KN filter is between 95-97% effective. 97% may see rather good, but consider the volume of air that an engine takes in and multiply by the efficiency. It adds up over time. Consider that at max flow of about 400CFM at WOT, that is close to 3000 gallons of air per minute.
After one hour, that's 180,000 gallons an hour.
99% 178,200 gallons of filtered air
97% 174600 gallons of filtered air
95% 171000 gallons of filtered air
This isn't to say that you are ingesting thousands of gallons of raw dirt and debris. I'm just giving you something to consider, especially since your engine bay looks so clean and stealthy.
If the gains are that minimal, consider just sticking with a stock filter.
Air Filter Comparison Study - GM Truck Central
K&N Air Filter Review - Debunking the Myths (and why OEM is better)
Now, KN on their website has a huge diatribe about why their filters are better due to increased flow, but with that much more flow comes increased chances for unfiltered air.
I personally recommend factory type filters, unless there is a good reason why a factory filter will not work. Such as a turbo swap, different induction tube, air box swap, etc. Many of us are forced to use cone style filters. Since that is likely the case, consider getting a filter sock for your cone filter, if you go that route. At least try and maximize your flow with the KN filter and minimize the dirt entering the engine, if you can
After one hour, that's 180,000 gallons an hour.
99% 178,200 gallons of filtered air
97% 174600 gallons of filtered air
95% 171000 gallons of filtered air
This isn't to say that you are ingesting thousands of gallons of raw dirt and debris. I'm just giving you something to consider, especially since your engine bay looks so clean and stealthy.
If the gains are that minimal, consider just sticking with a stock filter.
Air Filter Comparison Study - GM Truck Central
K&N Air Filter Review - Debunking the Myths (and why OEM is better)
Now, KN on their website has a huge diatribe about why their filters are better due to increased flow, but with that much more flow comes increased chances for unfiltered air.
I personally recommend factory type filters, unless there is a good reason why a factory filter will not work. Such as a turbo swap, different induction tube, air box swap, etc. Many of us are forced to use cone style filters. Since that is likely the case, consider getting a filter sock for your cone filter, if you go that route. At least try and maximize your flow with the KN filter and minimize the dirt entering the engine, if you can
Last edited by ACR_RX-7; 06-29-16 at 06:59 PM.
#83
RX-7 Old Timer
Thread Starter
More interesting than the K&N is the open box airflow results. I'm still eyeballing the cone filter options. We'll probably see a cone filter with a heat shield on this car next season.
Also, I might have fixed a boost leak, so stay tuned.
#86
RX-7 Old Timer
Thread Starter
I have no boost leaks. Nice and tight. No change in power.
I also checked the twin scroll operation. Working good. Here is my phone cam video, which might be interesting.
I also checked the twin scroll operation. Working good. Here is my phone cam video, which might be interesting.
#87
RX-7 Old Timer
Thread Starter
More Data:
Nice.
I made other runs with a trimmed foam air box, taking clean air from beside the radiator (I removed some foam to open a hole that goes through to the grill). It slightly lowered intake temperatures under load, but it increased air temps at cruise and idle, which I did not like. The filter is now completely open to engine air.
And this is the grill opening.
Nice.
I made other runs with a trimmed foam air box, taking clean air from beside the radiator (I removed some foam to open a hole that goes through to the grill). It slightly lowered intake temperatures under load, but it increased air temps at cruise and idle, which I did not like. The filter is now completely open to engine air.
And this is the grill opening.
#88
RX-7 Old Timer
Thread Starter
This is a Clarion 6 disc changer from the early 90s that came with the car.
It's on the fritz.
Time to fix it. That, or make literal mix tapes.
I searched on ebay and found a similar New-Old-Stock unit.
First, removing the unit from the storage bin.
It's bracketed to the floor and has cables running to the rocker.
It's on the fritz.
Time to fix it. That, or make literal mix tapes.
I searched on ebay and found a similar New-Old-Stock unit.
First, removing the unit from the storage bin.
It's bracketed to the floor and has cables running to the rocker.
#89
RX-7 Old Timer
Thread Starter
Getting more intense.
All this junk needed to come out.
Diagrams of the equipment.
It was a professional installation before, so the wiring was labeled (thank you!).
The changer and controller were marked "remanufactured". I fished out my old manuals/receipts, and this bad boy was $850 back in 1993, which works out to $1400 today. $1400 to play CDs.
I put the controller box back where it was before (suspended from the speedo cable) and gave the speedo cable some reinforcement from above.
And now everything is back together, and a bit cleaner.
Plays nice.
All this junk needed to come out.
Diagrams of the equipment.
It was a professional installation before, so the wiring was labeled (thank you!).
The changer and controller were marked "remanufactured". I fished out my old manuals/receipts, and this bad boy was $850 back in 1993, which works out to $1400 today. $1400 to play CDs.
I put the controller box back where it was before (suspended from the speedo cable) and gave the speedo cable some reinforcement from above.
And now everything is back together, and a bit cleaner.
Plays nice.
#92
RX-7 Old Timer
Thread Starter
Added: Turbosmart 20mm Dual Port BOV and glamour shots.
I'm enjoying this valve. In 50/50 recirculation configuration, it has a modest PSHHH sound, and some comes though the intake as well. The car (RTEK) runs just fine in fully vented mode as well.
Unfortunately, my CO2 bottle is empty, and dropped me to stock boost. Anyway, you can hear the car.
I'm enjoying this valve. In 50/50 recirculation configuration, it has a modest PSHHH sound, and some comes though the intake as well. The car (RTEK) runs just fine in fully vented mode as well.
Unfortunately, my CO2 bottle is empty, and dropped me to stock boost. Anyway, you can hear the car.
#96
RX-7 Old Timer
Thread Starter
#97
Rallye RX7
iTrader: (11)
I'm having a vac leak issue that is keeping my idle wonky otherwise my car is good as gold. I tried autoxing last summer and it did okay but my diff is too tired and its like an open diff. be sure to do your differential clutches when you do your clutch and when you do your clutch get an AL flywheel - it wakes that sucker up!
#99
RX-7 Old Timer
Thread Starter