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Well a half of a tub of Vasoline later I think I have an engine.....
I read somewhere that you can do the apex seals with the small wedge out instead of towards the rear of the engine. So thats the way I installed them. Everything went smooth and It seems like its going to be a good engine. For my first ever rebuild it was pretty simple. I spent about 2 hours cleaning out the o-ring seal grooves making sure to get them nice and clean. So far I have about a half of an engine. I need to torque down all the bolts on the rear. I really wanted to port the thing but decided I can use the other irons for "TRYING TO PORT". Now i have to read up on ratnest delete and smog delete. That crap is not going back on.
I'm not going for pretty I'm going for function. Pretty comes later..
End shaft play? I see the front stack is built up but no flywheel? I typically don't have an issue with endshaft play when I use all the same **** I just took off, but you've mix and matched two engines.
Does the compression sound good? Give it a whirl you shouldn't get a bind and it should make a nice sucking sound as you spin it.
I do not have a dial indicator but I was able to measure about .023mm of play front to back. If you are wondering how I came to this. I used the timing pointer and the pulley.
Shoved the e-shaft back all the way and the pointer was even with the pulley. Shoved it forward and could only fit the .023 feeler gauge between the pointer and the pulley.
Its my ghetto dial indicator. Anyhow the engine rotates good no snags or weird sounds. I may have a tad bit more play once i torque all of the thru bolts down. They are just tight right now. I assume I will gain a little more then. Compression sounds good.
Smog pump deleted as well as the rear little tube I have those both plated off, thanks to the junkyard engine it already had those plates on it. I stripped the nikki I sure hope i did it right. The strip pdf is for a later model so a few things were different. I kind of winged it with the other stuff on the carb. Some made sense to remove and others made sense to leave. Also deleted the rats nest. I think im going to leave the harness as is with the rats nest connectors still in tact, just incase I have to go back. I also need to get some more vacuum hose so I can do away with the hose splicers I put in. The solenoid with the white connector is for the AC kick down If i remember right. I didn't keep that but It also says to just idle up 100 rpms to compensate for that if you delete the white solenoid.
I made this video it has the plugs in both leading and trailing. Not sure if that makes a difference. But you guys be the judge on the compression. Pretty sure the rotation is clockwise but I got confused.
I got it, I did this years ago on my 81 just had to dig deep into the memory bank. I also removed more crap like the vacuum deal for the secondaries. And I removed the little arm that pumps the metering pump.. OOps... I cut it up and forgot to make sure it lifts the pump arm. I saw what I did as soon as it was done. I was like ****.... I got the welder out and popped a weld one each side so now the arm lifts as it should. Its ugly but it works. I'm not a welder by any stretch. I now need to fab a small plate to cover the vac that used to be for the secondaries. I'm pretty much down to the carb and that mess on the return spring side. I'm going to have to clean that crap up I guess.
Well tomorrow is the day I stuff it back into the car. Wont start it until I get exhaust and fix the radiator. Has anyone ever reflowed the soldier on a radiator to repair leaks? Or is that even possible?
I think mine is leaking up around the upper tank seam. I have to go shopping for stuff, oil, oil filter as well as Coolant. I'm getting an RB Road race header does anyone know the next piece I need for after the header? I cant fond any of those parts on the RB website. I'm going to take off all of the old exhaust due to it being crap.
Yup, I've pulled 3 flues on my radiator. I don't over heat even in these dog days of summer with the A/C blasting. I don't know about re-flow, but if you pull the flue out then seal the hole there is more than enough radiator to keep the car cool.
Make sure you clean the copper up good before you start tinning the metal. Radiators pick up all manner of dirt and grim and a good clean surface is important when soldering.
That's the long primary exhaust from RB. I think they only sell that as a complete system. But you might be able to find a used mid section and bolt it to a PP canister.
I got the header from a guy on the forums. Traded the Nikki and some cash for the header. I think Im going to buy the Flange from racing beat and make my own mid pipe, that midpipe is way too much money for what it looks like is 2 glasspacks and some 2 inch tubes.. lol
Here is the midpipe its $459.00 I cant afford that. So Ill just fab something up after the header.
Well, its back in the car. With some minor rain delays its in and all hooked up. My radiator is hosed so I need to get a new one. While dragging the hoist back my chain caught on that center bolt flange and ripped it out of the radiator top. This is the one for the shroud. So it already had a leak might as well replace it. Took out the entire exhaust and plan on trashing it unless someone needs a part. Usable parts possible cat and pipe that hooks to the reactor to the cat. I have to get a few things I broke the oil cap somehow and now need that as well as radiator, oil and oil filter. So I'll be looking for parts yet AGAIN> Anyone used a ebay aluminum radiator?
I've been thinking about replacing my canister with one, but I don't really care. My car sounds fine IMPO.
I'd go with a copper radiator if I had the choice between Al and Cu. I just like that I can pop into any 24 hour Wal-mart and get the materials I need to fix my radiator. All it takes is a propo torch and some flux and solder.
Yea I like the copper and brass stuff I am limited on funds for the car so that was the only reason I was looking at the aluminium dealio. Maybe Ill just pull it out and see if I can repair the issues. I have a torch solder and flux... Also have brazing rods..
Yea I like the copper and brass stuff I am limited on funds for the car so that was the only reason I was looking at the aluminium dealio. Maybe Ill just pull it out and see if I can repair the issues. I have a torch solder and flux... Also have brazing rods..
I dunno about putting the tank back on though. From what you said you separated the tank. I've only pulled out the flues never re-attached the tanks.
If you find a radiator/alternator shop they might be able to re-core it, but I think you'll find it cheaper to buy a new Cu radiator.
Brazing might be too hot for the original radiators in these cars as they were soldered from the factory. The brazing might melt the other flues out. I know I had some issues with that when I was soldering mine a few years ago.
EDIT: Getting a new radiator might be for the best. You can get a tall boy radiator that has less cores but more surface area. The latter RX7's have the tall radiator with the oil cooler in front of the radiator. Having the oil cooler in front aids the two fluids to maintain the same temperatures. Its a better setup than the oil cooler hanging from the bottom of a short thick radiator.
The tank is fine. Its the little tab that you bolt the center of the shroud to that broke off and took out a chunk of the brass with it. Its a hole about an 8th inch round. Like a spot weld I think that can be fixed pretty easy its the original leak that I'm not sure where its at. I'll have to pressure test the radiator to find that leak.
Well I think I have the thing sealed back up on top with the bracket attached so I can mount the shroud back on. Probably should have laid the radiator down on its back to do this because the solder flowed right past it and puddled below it. Anyhow its on there and seems to be solid. Wont know until I put some water in it and pressure test it.
If ever you have the radiator out of the car and do some repairs on it you can pressure test it with some compressed air and a rag shoved in the end. Use soapy water in a spray bottle to look for leaks. I loved that trick the first time I saw the old man do it.
That fix looks solid; you should get some miles out of it for sure.
Now would be the time to address the issues its empty and should be easy to pull out. I guess since im bored right now I can do that. Was playing Battlefield 4 which I suck at so now I'll go back to the car.
Pulled the radiator out and got a surprise the end caps on opposite corners came loose so I had to re-solder them. Still haven't gotten around to finding the original leak lol. I guess I'll do that whenI get better solder. The stuff I had was older than dirt. Was in my Pops old tool box. I need a oil cooler bracket for the passenger side. My rubber seperated from the bracket and caused it to just hang there hitting the shield. Anyone know where to source them?
Well i took the radiator out and tested it for leaks. Apparently I have caused several small leaks by overheating the upper tank. The seam has a few pinhole leaks My neighbor is a HVAC guy and hes going to fix it with nickle rod. He was just out of acetylene so I will work on it tomorrow. I had to re-heat and blow out my crappy solder and re clean the upper tank area. Will post progress if any.
You need propane. Much less heat. That's just ordinary solder that is put by the factory to hold the other flues in the tank; acyteline will melt the top of the tan and make things worse.
What you need is good liquid flux and a small wire brush. Clean the crap out of the area you intend to solder with liquid flux. Use the wire brush to wipe it off.
With it clean put a SMALL amount of heat on the affected flues with the affected tank on the bottom (the solder will run into the tank when heated, but it'll just rattle around in there won't do any harm) If you can solder the flue back into the tank, but IIRC I wasn't able to do so. I just pulled them out and crimped the other end of the flue.
A sponge damp with water will help keep the heat away from the other flues.
Watch some youtube videos about "lead body filling" that tinning look is what you're going for. If you don't see it your solder won't stick.
I was using a propane torch but apparently I just used too much too long. I figured out my error after the fact... I have re cleaned the areas and I used some old *** solder I did use flux the solder did stick and the upper part where I re attached the bracket didn't leak at all. It was several pin holes right at the tank seam. I already had a leak there because that was the part that always stayed wet. The good thing is I can try again.. Live and learn I guess. I would rather spend time fixing it 3 times than just buying a aftermarket radiator. I'll get it I just need to get the hang of it.
The flues are not the issue its the tank and that seam. But your tips are handy I need to get some better solder. I will avoid the torch my neighbor has. I don't want to mess it up beyond repair. At this point its just a few small issues. I spent about 20 minutes heating the solder again and blowing it out of the seam so that I can fix my mess up.
Ok today I went and got oil, filter and new cap since mine broke. Anyhow I went to turn the car over and my starter was apparently giving me fits... Which turned out to be the main engine ground I missed hooking up. So after getting that corrected I tried to fire it up and I get nothing but spinning.
When I setup the timing I lined up the flat spot on the flywheel with the exhaust side of the engine. Had the dizzy out and stabbed it with the 2 dots lined up. And the front pulley mark was on the pin. All seemed to be correct. But it seems as though its not firing. I ran out of daylight and kind of gave up for the night. But I am pretty sure I have it all correct. I didnt get any sort of misfire or back fire just lots of unburnt fuel cloud from the exhaust ports. I dont have my header yet still waiting on the guy to ship it to me even though I have already shipped my carb to him and sent him the money. He recieved the carb yesterday.. Seems to me they should have crossed paths in the mail.. Anyhow I will give him Until Friday I guess to respond and let me know whats going on.
07-23-16, 07:56 PM
I loved that trick the first time I saw the old man do it.