My 79 "barn find" project
10-07-12, 05:16 PM
#1
My 79 "barn find" project
Hey everyone! I finally did it! Finally went and got my Dad's old 79 out of his barn. He last drove it 9 years ago and was starting it up until about 3 years ago when age caught up with him.
It's in pretty great shape overall. Found a great thread on here for going through a "barn find" and getting it going. So far so good. Motor isn't locked up - yay!!
Got it up on stands and started changing the fluids today. Got the old oil out and new oil in. Had to vacuum out the oil filler tube (gonna try and post a pic) because it had a bunch of rusty scale in there. When I went in with my shopvac it looked like a rust tornado and I cannot be certain that no big pieces of rust dropped into the engine, so i fashioned a smaller diameter tube from my wife's beach umbrella and sucked out as much as I could.
I then got the rear diff. fluid drained and refilled. Had to scrape off a bunch of gunk, but it cleaned up and got it changed out ok with regular Valvoline 75W90.
Will change out the transmission fluid and flush the radiator fluid tomorrow, and put a new fuel filter on it and try to pump out the old gas.
After that I'll get new plugs, wires, cap, rotor, and battery and try to fire her up! I think the carb may need to be gone through since it's been sitting. It's bone dry in there but I'm sure some gas has varnished it up in there.
Well, wish me luck!
It's in pretty great shape overall. Found a great thread on here for going through a "barn find" and getting it going. So far so good. Motor isn't locked up - yay!!
Got it up on stands and started changing the fluids today. Got the old oil out and new oil in. Had to vacuum out the oil filler tube (gonna try and post a pic) because it had a bunch of rusty scale in there. When I went in with my shopvac it looked like a rust tornado and I cannot be certain that no big pieces of rust dropped into the engine, so i fashioned a smaller diameter tube from my wife's beach umbrella and sucked out as much as I could.
I then got the rear diff. fluid drained and refilled. Had to scrape off a bunch of gunk, but it cleaned up and got it changed out ok with regular Valvoline 75W90.
Will change out the transmission fluid and flush the radiator fluid tomorrow, and put a new fuel filter on it and try to pump out the old gas.
After that I'll get new plugs, wires, cap, rotor, and battery and try to fire her up! I think the carb may need to be gone through since it's been sitting. It's bone dry in there but I'm sure some gas has varnished it up in there.
Well, wish me luck!
10-08-12, 06:55 AM
#5
Not sure if having any rust from that gunked up oil filler tube fall into the engine will cause me any troubles or not. I doubt I could clean that like it should be unless the engine was apart. I'm pretty good at oil changes and simple maintenance, but that may be over my head.
Will post more pics as I go.
Will post more pics as I go.
10-08-12, 06:15 PM
#7
Moderator
iTrader: (3)
Join Date: Mar 2001
Location: https://www2.mazda.com/en/100th/
Posts: 30,789
Received 2,569 Likes
on
1,828 Posts
nice! early 79.
the oil filler tube goes right to the pan, so if you cleaned it out and then changed the oil you're fine, if not, it'll be in the filter later...
the oil filler tube goes right to the pan, so if you cleaned it out and then changed the oil you're fine, if not, it'll be in the filter later...
Trending Topics
10-08-12, 06:36 PM
#9
Had a rather productive day today. Started with an oil and filter change on my wife's car - some things just have to be done!
Drained the transmission fluid and installed new. The transmission case cleaned up nicely! Bought a handpump to make the job easier. A lot easier than that dang squirt bulb and the baster that didn't work (too big for the tight space under there).
I also changed out the fuel filter, and drained the old anti-freeze and flushed the system. Need to get a new hose clamp and then I can reconnect and fill with new.
Only fluid related thing to do now is remove what old gas there is and replace with new.
Here are some pics of what I've come across so far. Found a little scale and deposits in the radiator, but nothing alarming. Thought the fluid looked ok until I poured the buckets into clear containers for disposal - yuck...
Oh, and I removed the old rusty valence from under the nose. As you can see it has seen better days. Any ideas where I could get a replacement??
Drained the transmission fluid and installed new. The transmission case cleaned up nicely! Bought a handpump to make the job easier. A lot easier than that dang squirt bulb and the baster that didn't work (too big for the tight space under there).
I also changed out the fuel filter, and drained the old anti-freeze and flushed the system. Need to get a new hose clamp and then I can reconnect and fill with new.
Only fluid related thing to do now is remove what old gas there is and replace with new.
Here are some pics of what I've come across so far. Found a little scale and deposits in the radiator, but nothing alarming. Thought the fluid looked ok until I poured the buckets into clear containers for disposal - yuck...
Oh, and I removed the old rusty valence from under the nose. As you can see it has seen better days. Any ideas where I could get a replacement??
10-08-12, 06:44 PM
#10
Here are a few more pics of the job, and my workspace, which is limited.
Some of the pics don't look too good either - out of focus. I'll have to work on uploading real size pics.
Oh, and my dad said that the clutch needed to be bled again. He had the slave cylinder worked on. Not sure why but the clutch pedal is STIFF and doesn't budge. I'll start with bleeding it and if the fluid is nasty I'll change it out. Any ideas why the clutch pedal doesn't move???
After that and a new battery, plugs, wires, cap, and rotor I think I'll try to start it up. I have Friday off, so that may be my next big day to work on it.
Some of the pics don't look too good either - out of focus. I'll have to work on uploading real size pics.
Oh, and my dad said that the clutch needed to be bled again. He had the slave cylinder worked on. Not sure why but the clutch pedal is STIFF and doesn't budge. I'll start with bleeding it and if the fluid is nasty I'll change it out. Any ideas why the clutch pedal doesn't move???
After that and a new battery, plugs, wires, cap, and rotor I think I'll try to start it up. I have Friday off, so that may be my next big day to work on it.
10-08-12, 06:53 PM
#11
I know there's a thread on here somewhere where the poster had everyone put in their VIN. If I find it again I'll hit it up.
10-08-12, 07:43 PM
#12
Full Member
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: Wilmington, NC
Posts: 220
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Here are a few more pics of the job, and my workspace, which is limited.
Some of the pics don't look too good either - out of focus. I'll have to work on uploading real size pics.
Oh, and my dad said that the clutch needed to be bled again. He had the slave cylinder worked on. Not sure why but the clutch pedal is STIFF and doesn't budge. I'll start with bleeding it and if the fluid is nasty I'll change it out. Any ideas why the clutch pedal doesn't move???
After that and a new battery, plugs, wires, cap, and rotor I think I'll try to start it up. I have Friday off, so that may be my next big day to work on it.
Some of the pics don't look too good either - out of focus. I'll have to work on uploading real size pics.
Oh, and my dad said that the clutch needed to be bled again. He had the slave cylinder worked on. Not sure why but the clutch pedal is STIFF and doesn't budge. I'll start with bleeding it and if the fluid is nasty I'll change it out. Any ideas why the clutch pedal doesn't move???
After that and a new battery, plugs, wires, cap, and rotor I think I'll try to start it up. I have Friday off, so that may be my next big day to work on it.
10-08-12, 08:55 PM
#13
chances are the clutch pedal is not moving because of a frozen clutch master cylinder. the internal piston may have oxidized and seized itself to the bore. the same thing may have also happened to the clutch slave cylinder.. a rusted flywheel may snag the clutch friction disc, but would not prevent pedal movement. the pressure plate fingers are the only clutch hard part other than the throwout bearing that is actuated by pressing the clutch pedal.
10-08-12, 09:36 PM
#14
Sin City Rotary
Yes, it is early. It's # 6906, assembled in May of '78. It has the hood latch on the passenger side, and only a drivers side mirror (no passenger side mirror). Knowing it's that early gives it some "cool factor" - to me anyways.
I know there's a thread on here somewhere where the poster had everyone put in their VIN. If I find it again I'll hit it up.
I know there's a thread on here somewhere where the poster had everyone put in their VIN. If I find it again I'll hit it up.
nice
nice
was ya dads car
your bringing her back
oh and yeah she's an early one
10-09-12, 08:27 AM
#15
chances are the clutch pedal is not moving because of a frozen clutch master cylinder. the internal piston may have oxidized and seized itself to the bore. the same thing may have also happened to the clutch slave cylinder.. a rusted flywheel may snag the clutch friction disc, but would not prevent pedal movement. the pressure plate fingers are the only clutch hard part other than the throwout bearing that is actuated by pressing the clutch pedal.
Can't wait to try and fire her up!
10-09-12, 06:35 PM
#16
Okay, maybe someone can help me from making a huge mistake. I've searched and read a lot of posts about antifreeze, and most say the green stuff is ok.
I bought generic Autozone "Convnetional Green Antifreeze and Coolant". It says nothing about being safe for aluminum.
Can I use this generic stuff or should I swap it out for more expensive green stuff? Is all green antifreeze good (as good as can be I guess) for our aluminum engines?
Sorry if I'm bringing up a question that's been asked to death. Just don't want to mess up my motor. The guy at Autozone said after staring at the bottle for a moment or two .. "I don't see why not"... Didn't give me a warm and fuzzy feeling.
I bought generic Autozone "Convnetional Green Antifreeze and Coolant". It says nothing about being safe for aluminum.
Can I use this generic stuff or should I swap it out for more expensive green stuff? Is all green antifreeze good (as good as can be I guess) for our aluminum engines?
Sorry if I'm bringing up a question that's been asked to death. Just don't want to mess up my motor. The guy at Autozone said after staring at the bottle for a moment or two .. "I don't see why not"... Didn't give me a warm and fuzzy feeling.
Last edited by woodmv; 10-09-12 at 06:56 PM. Reason: adding a pic
10-10-12, 02:43 PM
#17
Okay, maybe someone can help me from making a huge mistake. I've searched and read a lot of posts about antifreeze, and most say the green stuff is ok.
I bought generic Autozone "Convnetional Green Antifreeze and Coolant". It says nothing about being safe for aluminum.
Can I use this generic stuff or should I swap it out for more expensive green stuff? Is all green antifreeze good (as good as can be I guess) for our aluminum engines?
Sorry if I'm bringing up a question that's been asked to death. Just don't want to mess up my motor. The guy at Autozone said after staring at the bottle for a moment or two .. "I don't see why not"... Didn't give me a warm and fuzzy feeling.
I bought generic Autozone "Convnetional Green Antifreeze and Coolant". It says nothing about being safe for aluminum.
Can I use this generic stuff or should I swap it out for more expensive green stuff? Is all green antifreeze good (as good as can be I guess) for our aluminum engines?
Sorry if I'm bringing up a question that's been asked to death. Just don't want to mess up my motor. The guy at Autozone said after staring at the bottle for a moment or two .. "I don't see why not"... Didn't give me a warm and fuzzy feeling.
I'll just do a better job of reading the threads and the jugs of anti-freeze. Next up - freeing up that clutch pedal...
10-12-12, 04:38 PM
#19
Had a pretty productive Friday off. Filled it with PRESTONE antifreeze - the yellow stuff they say is compatible with any color antifreeze and is safe for all metals including aluminum.
Drained the gas tank - dad had the better part of 8 gallons in there! The mower runs on it, so maybe it was ok... Didn't notice any sediment or anything in there so maybe the tank is ok too. Fingers crossed.
Put a new battery in and viola!! She's got lights!!! I even heard the fuel pump clicking away...
Drained the gas tank - dad had the better part of 8 gallons in there! The mower runs on it, so maybe it was ok... Didn't notice any sediment or anything in there so maybe the tank is ok too. Fingers crossed.
Put a new battery in and viola!! She's got lights!!! I even heard the fuel pump clicking away...
10-12-12, 04:50 PM
#20
So then, now that all the fluids have been replaced (except for new gas - needed to check the old stuff first and put it in my mower to free up a gas can), it's on to that stuck clutch.
I took out the master cylinder - boy was it nasty looking. Check out that NASTY fluid that came out of it - yuck!! But after reading some posts and following the manual I was able to make it work and look new again! Wire brush attachments on my Dewalt variable speed drill made it shine up, then hit it with some clear rustoleum paint. Looks GREAT! Works too!!
I took out the master cylinder - boy was it nasty looking. Check out that NASTY fluid that came out of it - yuck!! But after reading some posts and following the manual I was able to make it work and look new again! Wire brush attachments on my Dewalt variable speed drill made it shine up, then hit it with some clear rustoleum paint. Looks GREAT! Works too!!
10-12-12, 05:11 PM
#22
SO, then my son and I go to bleed the master cylinder and the NASTY crap that came out of that slave cylinder was really quite old and nasty. But after successfully doing that, the clutch still didn't feel quite right. So out came the slave cylinder....
As you can see, I need not only a bench grinder but a vice as well. For now a BFC (Big "Fancy" Clamp) and my drill get the job done.
Well, after trying to disassemble it, I got stuck trying to get that stinkin' "piston and cap assembly" (Chiltons manual part number 4 in figure 59) is STUCK in there! I couldn't get it out at all! The manual says to "release the wire piston stop with a screwdriver and withdraw the stop washer.
I'm assuming that the silvery washer in the last pic is the stop washer, but I cannot get that thing out. And there's nothing I can see that looks remotely like a wire piston stop, and certainly nothing to take out with a screwdriver. Any help here?? How does that thing come out?!?
I have it soaking in brake fluid now, so hopefully after a night of soaking it in brake fluid will loosen it some. But it's obvious that the slave cylinder is the reason the clutch is no workey...
As you can see, I need not only a bench grinder but a vice as well. For now a BFC (Big "Fancy" Clamp) and my drill get the job done.
Well, after trying to disassemble it, I got stuck trying to get that stinkin' "piston and cap assembly" (Chiltons manual part number 4 in figure 59) is STUCK in there! I couldn't get it out at all! The manual says to "release the wire piston stop with a screwdriver and withdraw the stop washer.
I'm assuming that the silvery washer in the last pic is the stop washer, but I cannot get that thing out. And there's nothing I can see that looks remotely like a wire piston stop, and certainly nothing to take out with a screwdriver. Any help here?? How does that thing come out?!?
I have it soaking in brake fluid now, so hopefully after a night of soaking it in brake fluid will loosen it some. But it's obvious that the slave cylinder is the reason the clutch is no workey...
10-13-12, 08:18 PM
#24
It. Is. ALIVE!!!!
After I got the slave cylinder in and working and verified the clutch worked, I dumped in 2 gallons of fresh, new gasoline.
Fingers crossed.... Turned the key, and SHE LIVES!!!! Got a fair amount of white smoke from the tailpipe, and it didn't run exactly smoothe, but hey it hasnt been started in three years. It missed some but eventually settled into a 900 RPM or so idle. Got it up to temp, and checked for leaks - none to be had!!
I'm not at all knowledgeable about carbs, but I can tell that this one needs some work. I've got the chiltons, and a download of the factory books (thanks to a poster on this website (sorry, I cannot remember it's been so long)), and can follow instructions so maybe a rebuild of the carb is in order.
Before that though, I'll go through the brakes and make sure they're ok before I drive it around town.
Anyone know how to upload a video? I took a 1 minute video of it running and I'd like to share.
Called Dad and Mom and put them on speaker - they sounded SO excited that I got it running. Can't wait to get it out on the road!!!
Fingers crossed.... Turned the key, and SHE LIVES!!!! Got a fair amount of white smoke from the tailpipe, and it didn't run exactly smoothe, but hey it hasnt been started in three years. It missed some but eventually settled into a 900 RPM or so idle. Got it up to temp, and checked for leaks - none to be had!!
I'm not at all knowledgeable about carbs, but I can tell that this one needs some work. I've got the chiltons, and a download of the factory books (thanks to a poster on this website (sorry, I cannot remember it's been so long)), and can follow instructions so maybe a rebuild of the carb is in order.
Before that though, I'll go through the brakes and make sure they're ok before I drive it around town.
Anyone know how to upload a video? I took a 1 minute video of it running and I'd like to share.
Called Dad and Mom and put them on speaker - they sounded SO excited that I got it running. Can't wait to get it out on the road!!!