'79 sa22...nyc
07-17-14, 11:33 PM
#26
I didn't cut anything either. If you unplug and remove your external volt regulator you will be left with the connector that has all the male spades on it. I wired my two relays to that according to the link above. That voltage regulator harness is responsible for turning the charging light off on the dash. The volt meter I would imagine is run by the B+ terminal off the alt. I cant seem to find any of my workshop manuals so it is difficult to verify. I will cut the alt connector off to replace it with the proper connector for the alt that I am using
07-21-14, 11:42 PM
#27
so I cranked the engine today to see if I get oil pressure before going any farther. No good. After some reading on the subject it looks like I was supposed to install the oil pump with Vaseline and oil in it to help it achieve a "prime". I of course installed it dry so I guess its cavitating. I'm gonna pour some stp engine honey down the oil filter housing with the oil cooler line disconnected from the front cover. Once oil starts coming out the front cover I will try again. Wish me luck. If that doesn't work then the pan has to come off and check the regulators. I hate doing the pan with the engine in these cars
07-22-14, 03:31 PM
#29
I don't have a gauge hooked up yet...the oil pressure sender is plugged on this rear housing so I need to run an aftermarket one. My battery pack cranks like a monster though but everything is dry. I have been cranking with the filter removed
07-23-14, 01:23 AM
#30
The way I install an oil pump during engine assembly is:
•dab some oil in the oil pump shaft hole in the front iron
•smear a thin layer of RTV around the (clean) mounting surface like Judge Ito said
•tighten all four bolts evenly while checking that oil pump shaft is able to move freely
•flip the engine bottom-up and pour oil down the hole pickup tube hole (don't make a mess)
•hand crank engine until all the oil is swallowed by the oil pump (yum)
•install pick up tube with RTV and a gasket on clean surfaces and correct length bolts properly torqued
•shove a wad of paper towel into the front cover oil fitting so it don't drip on your shoe!
Then proceed to install the oil pan as usual.
I never use vasoline. My engines always start to make oil pressure pretty quickly using my oil pump install/prime method.
For your dry oil pump, I'd go ahread and pour oil down into the front cover fitting like you said, and hand crank the engine backwards so oil makes its way into the pump.
•dab some oil in the oil pump shaft hole in the front iron
•smear a thin layer of RTV around the (clean) mounting surface like Judge Ito said
•tighten all four bolts evenly while checking that oil pump shaft is able to move freely
•flip the engine bottom-up and pour oil down the hole pickup tube hole (don't make a mess)
•hand crank engine until all the oil is swallowed by the oil pump (yum)
•install pick up tube with RTV and a gasket on clean surfaces and correct length bolts properly torqued
•shove a wad of paper towel into the front cover oil fitting so it don't drip on your shoe!
Then proceed to install the oil pan as usual.
I never use vasoline. My engines always start to make oil pressure pretty quickly using my oil pump install/prime method.
For your dry oil pump, I'd go ahread and pour oil down into the front cover fitting like you said, and hand crank the engine backwards so oil makes its way into the pump.
07-27-14, 08:51 PM
#34
Awesome! Glad the oil pump prime method worked.
As for the noise, it could be the alt or something in the tranny. The alt is easy enough to remove (it's ok to run an engine without a waterpump spinning for a short period of time, like a minute or less). If tranny, push in the clutch pedal and listen. Jack the rear up and try all the gears.
As for the noise, it could be the alt or something in the tranny. The alt is easy enough to remove (it's ok to run an engine without a waterpump spinning for a short period of time, like a minute or less). If tranny, push in the clutch pedal and listen. Jack the rear up and try all the gears.
07-27-14, 09:04 PM
#35
Cant be the alt Jeff no belts on the engine...I'm trying to get a video up but my phone and you tube are being uncooperative to say the least....I'm hoping for a tranny noise or distributor at this point, but even if it had to all come out and apart just hearing it run was very motivational!
07-28-14, 08:56 PM
#41
Ok I updated the other thread so I will update here too. I had about an hour to mess with the car tonight. I got coolant bled and belts installed. The whining noise is def coming from the intake manifold area so its just gonna be a matter of sealing it up with a thicker gasket or silicone or both...Im in love with the carb set up and the simplicity of it...I know nikkis are great when they work but please don't ask me to go back lol. My fuel sender doesn't appear to be working so I had to guess when premixing but that should keep it interesting. Tach is working too.
07-29-14, 08:45 PM
#42
A pic-less update. Efans are wired up and working and the car now idles on its own. I had an interesting event...after completing my alternator upgrade I was running the car to make sure the fans come on as they are supposed to. Once I was satisfied I went to shut off the car and when I did it kept running.
I knew something was up when I connected the battery and was hearing one of the relays click that I wired in for the upgrade. The alternator charges fine and the light on the dash is off so I might have to look at my coils and see what is going on. As soon as I un plug the alt the car turns off so I think I know whats going on.
Tomorrow I will pull the intake manifold and reseal. Bleed the clutch, top up the tranny oil and go for a drive...I HOPE
I knew something was up when I connected the battery and was hearing one of the relays click that I wired in for the upgrade. The alternator charges fine and the light on the dash is off so I might have to look at my coils and see what is going on. As soon as I un plug the alt the car turns off so I think I know whats going on.
Tomorrow I will pull the intake manifold and reseal. Bleed the clutch, top up the tranny oil and go for a drive...I HOPE
08-04-14, 03:55 PM
#44
Took it for a short drive today around the block a few times. Car is solid...good brakes and suspension. The light weight flywheel coupled with the vacuum leak at the intake and the carb running pig rich (3.5-4lbs) made the throttle application ahhhhh....interesting. Next up on the list of things to do is seal up that vac leak, get a decent battery, do a little electrical troubleshooting and then get some plates on it so I can drive it and break the engine in. 500 miles ok??? Change the oil then beat on it...lol. I'm not known to baby anything
08-16-14, 09:29 PM
#45
ok so time to update this a little...I got some time to myself today to play and was able to pull the intake manifold and reseal it. I also got my tach working and put some gas in the ole girl. Took it for a couple of drives around the neighborhood. I know break in is supposed to be 2k-4k for the first 500 miles or so but this thing really wants to run! This is def not your go to the grocery store car. The noise from the carb and exhaust is awesome, but I'm on the fence with the lightweight flywheel still. Here is a little video of it idling after driving and fiddling with the carb and distributor a bit...
There is still the issue of the car running after the key is turned off with the key and the only way to turn it off is to unplug the alternator, but that is next on the list.
I also got a tiny bit of oil coming out of the eccentric shaft front pulley bolt and am thinking the crush washer got pinched so there is also that to deal with....
There is still the issue of the car running after the key is turned off with the key and the only way to turn it off is to unplug the alternator, but that is next on the list.
I also got a tiny bit of oil coming out of the eccentric shaft front pulley bolt and am thinking the crush washer got pinched so there is also that to deal with....
08-16-14, 09:34 PM
#46
overall I'm pretty happy and if it blew up tomorrow I would be ok with that. I don't think that's going to happen but its a good place to be in if you know what I mean. I still feel like the carb is getting too much fuel. The lowest the fuel pressure reg will go is 3.5lbs and it seems like too much for this carb. There is still vac advance to set up...(yes I'm gonna try) I discovered the rear suspension is pretty shot and there is a cure in the works. Also the thermostat will be changed out for a 160 degree from a mustang so my fans will actually turn off. Temp gauge never went above 1/2 but I would like the fans to cycle and not run constantly. Its gonna take forever to break this engine in at this rate so maybe I will plate this car and commute for a couple of weeks lol.
10-14-14, 09:56 AM
#49
Well I figured it is time to give a bit of an update. Car has been doing great. I recently had an issue with my alternator during a "spirited" drive around the block. It appears the regulator mechanism in the alternator went south. This caused a rpm related voltage spike which of course blew my main fuse to all hell. Upon replacing the fuse I was able to get the vehicle to crank, but it had no spark. Turns out both coils and both ignitors had to be replaced as the coils were leaking badly and the ignitors tested bad. Did all that and got her running again but it is obvious some other circuits were effected. My efans no longer come on, and my gauge cluster is dead. when you use the flashers or turn signals the lights illuminate but do not flash. I'm hoping its all related and a simple fix. Wish me luck 
The car is also currently for sale...
The car is also currently for sale...
10-16-14, 03:21 PM
#50
Got the efans working again. Funny the relay was shot and the fuse was good. Guess there was some backfeeding going on when the alternator failed. As for the other circuits its just gonna be a matter of going through them and checking component by component. At least I can drive the car again. As it stands now It looks like I need a flasher, an instrument cluster (or solder the one I have) and possibly a blower motor.
I got tired of dealing with electrical stuff so I turned my attention to my drivers window. It had a tendancy for going off track every time it was COMPLETELY rolled down. Pulled the door card and found a loose bolt on the fwd window track. At least some things are an easy fix.
I got tired of dealing with electrical stuff so I turned my attention to my drivers window. It had a tendancy for going off track every time it was COMPLETELY rolled down. Pulled the door card and found a loose bolt on the fwd window track. At least some things are an easy fix.