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Hey guys!
I recently became an owner of a 1993, one owner, 100% stock Touring edition black RX7.
I drove it back Home Friday from OKC to Houston, 6 hrs with 1.5 a fill ups and a lunch break - fantastic experience to "bond" with the car.
I am new to the rotary world but I did my readings and before doing the 450miles trip I had the following done to the '7:
(55,600 miles)
- Koyo N-Flow radiator
- Pettit Thermoswitch
- Pettit Thermostat
- OBX Coolant hoses
- Replaced Fuel filter
- Upgraded Fuel Pump (the OEM went out after we replaced the fuel filter )
- Replaced spark plugs
- Oil/filter Change
- Vacuum lines / check valves
The car ran fantastic, a joy to drive. The seats are very uncomfortable though! I am 6' for 180 lbs and I thought I would fit fine but I am at the limit.
Now that I am in Houston I am about to replace the pre-cat and the cat with a downpipe and HFC, I read that this helps to extend the life of the engine (which is original).
Boost is great, transition happens when it should and it is now pushing 10psi on both turbos.
I see some crazy builds here, I am mainly looking for reliability as the NSX is my track car, this is more of a fun toy on the weekends. Ok, maybe a couple oftrackdays a year...!
My question is whether I can get away with a remapped ECU instead of the PFC setup when I will replace the cats down there.
Remaps and PFCs are both fine. The issue isn't the ecu, it's boost creep. Without enough exhaust restriction your boost will creep past what your fuel system(not ecu) can support. As long as you keep some sort of cat, you ought to be OK either way.
Remaps and PFCs are both fine. The issue isn't the ecu, it's boost creep. Without enough exhaust restriction your boost will creep past what your fuel system(not ecu) can support. As long as you keep some sort of cat, you ought to be OK either way.
Yes - I am keeping the catback and have a HFC - I am reading more about the creep.
Again, I don't want high performance, only reliability: zoom zoom without the boom...
If you keep the stock airbox and a highflow cat you should be able to keep the stock ECU under boost cut and in happy AFRs.
At most you will have to put a small restricting gasket in the exhaust between the cat pipe and the cat back to keep it boosting below fuel cut.
You may have to correct your now wonky boost pattern by putting a couple Hallman Pro-RX manual boost controllers on the wastegate and Pre-spool actuators.
This would be my recipe for a nice reliable FD.
Stock +
boost gauge
Denso "Supra" pump
Downpipe
Highflow cat or stock is fine
Catback or stock is fine
Big stock mount IC with duct
Cold air mod to stock airbox "cheap bastard intake"
Dual Hallman Pro-RX MBC set to 10psi
I did this for 3 years of auto-x/hillclimbs and ~30,000miles.
And then got greedy and put in air filters (and hello 14psi boost) and ROM tuned ECU (no boost cut and 9,000rpm redline). Stuck a side seal from over rev while hooning 1st gear
Most of the problem with too much boost and the stock ECU is simply the stock boost control. The stock ECU has fixed boost control maps, when you open things up (exhaust, intake) it has no way to compensate and your boost goes nuts.
Going with an aftermarket boost controller can solve this problem.
Down the road I would consider a PowerFC. Big reasons I like it -
- NO 3000 RPM hesitation. Gone. You can make it better by adding grounds with a stock ECU, but you will always have it. Even chipped ECU's have it.
- You can lower the fan turn-on point to 85 deg. C.
- You have some headroom and flexibility for things down the road.
- With a Datalogit, you can reduce the 2nd turbo transition so you have no power dip before the 2nd turbo comes on.
This would be my recipe for a nice reliable FD.
Stock +
boost gauge
Denso "Supra" pump
Downpipe
Highflow cat or stock is fine
Catback or stock is fine
Big stock mount IC with duct
Cold air mod to stock airbox "cheap bastard intake"
Dual Hallman Pro-RX MBC set to 10psi
I did this for 3 years of auto-x/hillclimbs and ~30,000miles.
I have to look into a couple of items on your list as I have no idea what they are, but you did what I wanted to do - aka autocross and sone trackdays.
I also read that the stock IC is crap and should be upgraded.
Hey guys, is there a known bushing in the RX7 that needs to be replaced after some years/miles?
Car runs fine when cold, but after a few miles driving I suspect that bushing heat up and it starts to make a clunking noise (I know right? Another clunking noise thread!).
Any input is appreciated. Yes - I am also searching rx7club and before you guys bash me I will check:
Power Plant Frame
Differential Mounts
Suspension bushings
I suspect it has to do with the PPF as the gearbox is a bit notchy (fresh fluid). I suspect that maybe a worn mount could misalign something and that is the reason for the notchiness...
I found out that the second turbo SOMETIMES does not work.
First Turbo boosts fine, then transition kicks in and then..nothing...
I tried keeping the revs at 5k ad doing a on and off with the gas, and the second Turbo would kick in, and stay in if changing gears.
Yes, solenoids, but since the happening is random is there a specific solenoid I could look at? I searched but most of the topics are about secondary turbo non kicking it at all.
08-31-15, 04:16 PM
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