Turbo8

iTrader: (17)

Great build man. I would recommend a Battery Tender/trickle charger for that Braille battery, they can die if you don't drive the car for a week or two. But otherwise they're great.

RENESISFD

iTrader: (13)

^ I drive the car alot in the spring summer and fall (3-4 times a week) so I shouldn't have a problem



Those were my thoughts exactly. I am tall so leaning over the fender all the time is annoying. I definately made it less stressful and more relaxing to workon. I was so worried about broken studs on the turbo manifold and didnt break one.


John

GoodfellaFD3S

iTrader: (213)

Everything is coming along nicely John, it'll be good to see ya on the DGRR caravan

RENESISFD

iTrader: (13)

^ You too

I didn't post pics but on Sunday I was able to install the motor. In order for me to start the car all I have to do is plug in the pfc, connect up the fuel lines, add coolant, and bolt up the down pipe. I hope to have some time tonight to be able to finish those things. Then the next step is mounting the battery and making intercooler piping, bleeding my front brakes, install the bumper, and fender liners. Then I can drive it. This weekend I want to finish up wiring my gauges and wash the car and i'm pretty much set for deals gap. The suspense is killing me.



john

RENESISFD

iTrader: (13)

I worked all day sunday to get the car running. I was able to install everything except for the PFS race SMIC I have. After placing the intercooler in the engine bay, I realized that there will need to be a little more modifications that I had origionaly thought. Also I had decded to use a Panspeed throttle body elbow and I think I will need to move a fuse box down a few inches so I can have straight intercooler piping. Aside from that the car is running great. It sounds so much better with the resonated midpipe. I used to have the stock cat. The car is alot faster than it was before and I am so happy with the BNR's.

On to the pics Sorry there arent more of them, I was in a rush to get the car running so i can put some test miles on it.

Also, I have a vid of the first start of the car. I was impressed with how quickly the car started. I had removed the egi fuse and cranked the car over to fill up the oil cooler lines with oil, added some oil, reinstalled the fuse and started the car. I cranked over for about 5 seconds before it started. and ran nice and smooth.
















John

Finster

iTrader: (1)

Hey I noticed you still have the black plastic oval opening (whatever its called) thing in your radiator opening. Doesnt that prevent a bit of air from getting in your main grille?
Or did Mazda actually put it there for a reason?

RENESISFD

iTrader: (13)

^ From what I have read it was a cheap way for mazda to direct air to the radiator. Rather than have the air go around the radiator due to gaps on the sides of the radiator. There is a thread on here discussing that.




John

Scrub

iTrader: (25)

Glad to hear you have the car ready for the big day.... I see you're rockin a sweet SBG sticker too

If want to come stay here tomorrow night you're welcome to since Rich is no longer having the caravan start up that way.

RENESISFD

iTrader: (13)

Well the car made it to deals gap and back with no problems. Big thanks to Dan (scrub) for letting me stay at his place wednesday night. One I got back from Deals Gap I ended up getting real busy with school work so the car had to wait.

Over the past few days I have been trying to install my intercooler and battery. I do not want to relocate my battery. So I have come to the decision to notch the intercooler end tank to make room for the battery to fit. I ended up buying an even smaller battery because it was a little shorter in height so i would not have to notch the intercooler as much. I have also bought the Aquamist HFS 3 AI system. I am TBD on where I will be mounting the gauge but I may just put it into the glove box.











Notice I bent the A/C line inorder to move the battery up an inch so the terminals would be on either side of the intercooler.







John

hades

iTrader: (4)

Not to be a downer. But I think you just really hurt your intercooler performance. Can you move the cooler towards the intake side instead?

RENESISFD

iTrader: (13)

The intercooler is only a half inch from the airbox, and the duct holds it where it is now. There was no room to move over. This was a comprimise I decided to make. If it does not work out I can always change it.

I am sure it did affect the performance a little bit but being I only have BNR's and not some big single the amount of airflow is less than some people have. It will not make as much of a difference. One thing I do want to do is to hook up a gauge and see what the pressure drop is across the intercooler to get an idea of how much I am affecting the performance. But IMHO It is not much difference from what it was before. As far as locating the battery in the cabin.... that is something I will not do. I will not modify anything in the interior to install a battery.



John

muibubbles

iTrader: (36)

you dont need to modify anything in the interior to relocate a battery.. only IF you put it in the rear bin...

Im not a fan of cutting up the endtank either.. you are probably right that its still efficient enough but id be more concerned about the shape since its not a smooth flow into the outlet now.. just my .02

build looks great tho keep it up!

ShiftRX7

are you able to remove the battery without removing the intercooler with this setup?

good luck with the rest of your setup, looks good!

RENESISFD

iTrader: (13)

Bubbles... If I was to relocate the battery I would put it in the bin so it is not visible. Also How would you move the battery into the trunk and not modify anything? How will you secure the battery with out making a hole in something?


Shift... No you can not, this battery should last for years with out problems so that was not a concern to me. When I do have to remove the battery It is only two intercooler pipes and four bolts. Have it out in 10 mins.


I spent a few days contemplating if I should cut the intercooler or not. If it does not work out I can always put it back to stock and do something else. No big deal.

Thanks for the compliments and concerns.


John

ShiftRX7

thanks for the clarification John; i just wondered as i had to remove the battery a few times during my build before finally deciding to relocate it in the rear bin.

please keep us posted on the progress of your build!

cheers,

Gabriel

hades

iTrader: (4)

This may sound dumb...

Can you flip the intercooler upside down and move it toward the air intake?

Trust me - I designed helped design cooling modules (a/c, radiator, intercooler) with BEHR for Peterbilt. That intercooler is going to have some major flow issues.

I don't want to beat a dead horse-or you, but I hope will reconsider. A smaller intercooler with good end tanks will perform better too.

GOOD LUCK! Your car does look really nice. I remember seeing it at DGRR.

RENESISFD

iTrader: (13)

^ Can not flip it upside down because then the widest point is at the bottom (obviously) and that is where the battery is so It would make the problem worse. I went out and checked because I had not considered that option.

Can you go into more details on why you feel the intercooler will have severe flow issues? Is there some type of relationship between the intercooler endtank volume and the cfm flowing through it?

I appreciate your input but for now I will install it with the end tank modified and measure the pressure drop. I feel that will be a good indication of the flow resistance. Correct?

Since you worked with intercooler design what is the typical pressure drop you see? What is the accepted limit?

I am all ears.


John

hades

iTrader: (4)

acceptable pressure drop is dependent to the requirements given by the engine manufacture. Its a game of size, pressure drop and intake air temperature requirements.

Fluids - air always likes the path of least resistance. This means that intercoolers that are square or rectangular (long axis vertical) with symmetric inlets and outlets will have trouble getting air flow to all of the rows. Even with tapered endtanks.

To help get more flow to all of the rows internal fins are cast into the end tanks to force air to the extremities and not just across the top, middle or bottom - where ever the inlets are located - and the path of least resistance.

The other option that is used is to run opposite tanks - i.e. intake on top on and outlet on the bottom. The endtanks are still tapered. Kinda like a yin-yang. This gives are more even flow across the core. But packaging can be a pain.

Generally auto intercoolers are not large enough to justify endtanks with features to control flow or running inlet and outlets and different positions.

But here is my worry with your design. You have created a large resistance to the bottom rows. The path of least resistance is going to be across the upper rows. You are not going to be gaining anything by running the intercooler that large. I bet you will have crappy intake temps and lag.

If you don't want to relocate the battery - I understand that I won't cut into my bins - I would run a smaller intercooler that has better endtanks. You bet you will have less lag and cooler temps.

It will be interesting to here what the pressure drop and intake temps are.

Good luck.

Hope this helps. I can make MS paint pictures if needed.

TwinCharged RX7

iTrader: (14)

I think he'll be fine. With BNR's its not like he needs an IC that can flow for 500whp. That IC is plenty big enough to be used for applications of well over 500whp. He may be limiting the flow over the bottom portion of it, but there's still plenty of room for enough volume to flow to max out the BNR's.

MOBEONER

iTrader: (18)

Looks good John, do what u have to do to make it as simple as possible.

Brent Dalton

iTrader: (31)

Looking good!

RENESISFD

iTrader: (13)

More Boner..... thats exactly what I am doing.

Brent.... Thank you




John

Will post an update a little later.

RENESISFD

iTrader: (13)

"Finished" the intercooler install. With the weather we are having; 95 degrees ambient. My intake temps with 13lbs of boost are right around 52 degrees celsius. I am not sure if this is good or not. The temps are definately lower than stock. I want to add an extension to the duct to help get more air to the SMIC, simmilar to what theorie has on his car. This winter I plan to go v-mount so I will not stress on this too much. The braille battery starts the car with absolutely no problems although we will see when it gets colder out. I also installed an R-magic titanium midpipe to replace my resonated one. And a stillway elbow. both purchased from purerx7. The car is definitely louder. Here are the pics.


Tig418 welding














Braille mount




More pics shortly.........


John