My 93 Montego single turbo build
04-26-14, 11:43 AM
#1
My 93 Montego single turbo build
I decided its time to post my build. I have had this car since 2007 and it has gone through 1 build already. I bought the car while down in California, drove it for a few weeks and sped up my build plan when I noticed a pretty bad oil leak. I tore down the motor, to street port the motor. More bad news, the housings where grooved and a chip in one of the rotor corner. Needless to say I was pretty disappointed with the last owners maintenance program.
Ordered a JDM motor and started my motor build with that.
List of changes made from memory include:
Street port
Ported intake and double throttle delete
Apexi intake
Front mount intercooler
Koyo Rad
Power FC
Act clutch
Exedy flywheel
Apexi N1 exhaust
probably a few more goodies to throw in but my memory isn't helping.
Had it nearly complete then went racing in Europe so sent it to a shop to finish up the vacuum setup and get it running. Well they got it running however it was not holding boost.
Started to investigate, and decided hey may as well check the whole motor.
Got the sequential's off and noticed the cracking manifold. Time to go single!
I am now nearly complete and almost have the car fired.
Talked with Force Fed Performance about tuning and Marco recommended going with a microtech EMS so over the last few days my buddy and I have been planning our attack on rewiring the car. He had helped me build my single turbo wiring harness, now over the next few weeks we plan on rewiring a big portion of the car, using his knowledge as an emergency vehicle wiring specialist.
I will do my best to fill in a bit of the story and let you know all of the learning experiences/mistakes I have had over the past few years as well as post all of the current changes being made.
List of build 2.0 that has been added:
GT4088R turbo
FFE fuel rails
ID 725cc primary injectors
Bosch 1700cc injector secondary (to be switched to ID 1000cc per tuner request)
resonator mid pipe
Proflex bushings all around
Fikse Profil 13 wrapped in Michelin
Apexi N1 coilovers
AEM aux injector kit
What to look forward too.
Lots and lots of wiring including a Microtech EMS
Paint
Interior
slight chassis reinforcement
I will post some pics shortly.
Ordered a JDM motor and started my motor build with that.
List of changes made from memory include:
Street port
Ported intake and double throttle delete
Apexi intake
Front mount intercooler
Koyo Rad
Power FC
Act clutch
Exedy flywheel
Apexi N1 exhaust
probably a few more goodies to throw in but my memory isn't helping.
Had it nearly complete then went racing in Europe so sent it to a shop to finish up the vacuum setup and get it running. Well they got it running however it was not holding boost.
Started to investigate, and decided hey may as well check the whole motor.
Got the sequential's off and noticed the cracking manifold. Time to go single!
I am now nearly complete and almost have the car fired.
Talked with Force Fed Performance about tuning and Marco recommended going with a microtech EMS so over the last few days my buddy and I have been planning our attack on rewiring the car. He had helped me build my single turbo wiring harness, now over the next few weeks we plan on rewiring a big portion of the car, using his knowledge as an emergency vehicle wiring specialist.
I will do my best to fill in a bit of the story and let you know all of the learning experiences/mistakes I have had over the past few years as well as post all of the current changes being made.
List of build 2.0 that has been added:
GT4088R turbo
FFE fuel rails
ID 725cc primary injectors
Bosch 1700cc injector secondary (to be switched to ID 1000cc per tuner request)
resonator mid pipe
Proflex bushings all around
Fikse Profil 13 wrapped in Michelin
Apexi N1 coilovers
AEM aux injector kit
What to look forward too.
Lots and lots of wiring including a Microtech EMS
Paint
Interior
slight chassis reinforcement
I will post some pics shortly.
04-26-14, 01:35 PM
#7
You just need to put your link in between [IMG] and [/IMG], that will show the picture instead of the link.
I know your tuner suggested ID1000s for secondary, but I would take the opportunity and just upgrade to ID2000s so you have room to spare. I would shorten that oil drain, the more straight down the better.
Looks good so far, can't wait to see more picture
I know your tuner suggested ID1000s for secondary, but I would take the opportunity and just upgrade to ID2000s so you have room to spare. I would shorten that oil drain, the more straight down the better.
Looks good so far, can't wait to see more picture
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04-26-14, 09:40 PM
#9
Thanks tt7hvn. Unfortunately not my own work space. The shop used to assemble the motor and rebuild the brakes is my dad's dream garage He has a 3 car up front then it rolls through to the shop pictured here... 
It also has a floor below for motorcycles. Permission to be really jealous.
The shop where I was building the car has been upgraded to a 1300sqft shop we share at the office.
Ze Power, I have actually run the turbo drain straight down since that photo was taken. As for the injectors I completely agree with you in my personal opinion. I have the 1700cc's in now not ID but the tuner likes to keep the primary and secondary injectors close to the same size. If it where up to me I would go to a more traditional set up found in many on the forums. But Marco at Force Fed has a good reputation up here and I rather let him do what he does. He says one of the shop cars is running 1000cc's all around is good for 600hp. The duty cycle must be quite high I would assume.
Thanks for the kind words and keep the good advice coming.
Best way to pay helpers, free beer and burgers.
It also has a floor below for motorcycles. Permission to be really jealous.
The shop where I was building the car has been upgraded to a 1300sqft shop we share at the office.
Ze Power, I have actually run the turbo drain straight down since that photo was taken. As for the injectors I completely agree with you in my personal opinion. I have the 1700cc's in now not ID but the tuner likes to keep the primary and secondary injectors close to the same size. If it where up to me I would go to a more traditional set up found in many on the forums. But Marco at Force Fed has a good reputation up here and I rather let him do what he does. He says one of the shop cars is running 1000cc's all around is good for 600hp. The duty cycle must be quite high I would assume.
Thanks for the kind words and keep the good advice coming.
Best way to pay helpers, free beer and burgers.
05-01-14, 06:49 PM
#11
On to what has happened in the last year or so.
A set of Fikse Profil 13 donated by Fikse Wheels who have been very patient to see these on the road.
Engine in again. Don't mind the vacuum lines and fuel lines they got axed.
New bushings installed.
Apexi coil overs added.
A little help getting the engine bay painted.
A set of Fikse Profil 13 donated by Fikse Wheels who have been very patient to see these on the road.
Engine in again. Don't mind the vacuum lines and fuel lines they got axed.
New bushings installed.
Apexi coil overs added.
A little help getting the engine bay painted.
05-07-14, 04:09 PM
#12
Had a little bit of time yesterday to kill in the shop last night before a meeting. Started stripping a few more interior pieces to make way for a black carpet and cleaner wiring.
Got a little hung up with the dash. I assume I need to take out the rest of the air circulation and drain the coolant before going any further.
I also got under the car to tackle an oil leak, I suspect is coming from the turbo drain line. Replaced the gasket with a brand new mazda gasket and some silicone. I will have to wait to turn the motor over to confirm I got it.
Got a little hung up with the dash. I assume I need to take out the rest of the air circulation and drain the coolant before going any further.
I also got under the car to tackle an oil leak, I suspect is coming from the turbo drain line. Replaced the gasket with a brand new mazda gasket and some silicone. I will have to wait to turn the motor over to confirm I got it.
05-07-14, 04:34 PM
#13
careful pressing in your bushings like that... it's easier to break those control arms than you may think
also, one more thing: it appears that your turbo oil drain is not making a constant downward slope, so the oil will puddle at your 90* fitting coming off the CHRA
you may be aware that these are gravity drain only, and if you have a blocked (or effectively "blocked" by a puddle) oil will get pushed out of the CHRA seals and into your compressor housing or turbine housing.
1 straight and 1 45* (and hose shortening) would be more ideal here, i would think.
great thread! looking forward to some updates.
also, one more thing: it appears that your turbo oil drain is not making a constant downward slope, so the oil will puddle at your 90* fitting coming off the CHRA
you may be aware that these are gravity drain only, and if you have a blocked (or effectively "blocked" by a puddle) oil will get pushed out of the CHRA seals and into your compressor housing or turbine housing.
1 straight and 1 45* (and hose shortening) would be more ideal here, i would think.
great thread! looking forward to some updates.
05-07-14, 04:52 PM
#15
I somehow missed the second part of your post. I have since changed the design of the turbo drain. It now follows the original shape of stock turbos using the original straight pipe off the engine, then has a 90* bend and then straight up to the turbo. It is the shortest path and I would assume the 90 straight up should be much better. One thing is there is not much room for flex and I don't know if it will put stress on the hose. I plan on making a support from the engine to the turbo to prevent vibration which will make this less of a concern.
05-07-14, 08:18 PM
#17
Samito Built, Im excited to try out the microtech. How do you like it? Your not to far from me just a bit of a boarder jump away.
I took a picture to show the new turbo drain plumbing.
I spent a little time deconstructing the car again.
More interior bits out, and out with the engine wiring harness.
I think I need to pull the steering wheel, I will have to pick up the correct puller tomorrow.
Out with the ugly test harness.
Bits and pieces of what remains of engine harnesses before we create the microtech harness.
Looks like I'm going backwards again. The plan is now to finish pulling the carpet out, clean up the wiring, and install the microtech next.
I took a picture to show the new turbo drain plumbing.
I spent a little time deconstructing the car again.
More interior bits out, and out with the engine wiring harness.
I think I need to pull the steering wheel, I will have to pick up the correct puller tomorrow.
Out with the ugly test harness.
Bits and pieces of what remains of engine harnesses before we create the microtech harness.
Looks like I'm going backwards again. The plan is now to finish pulling the carpet out, clean up the wiring, and install the microtech next.
05-09-14, 07:43 AM
#18
You have people that say there outdated and better ecu's out there. But from experience the microtech is simple to tune and is extremely reliable. I'm actually using a lt8 which is plug and play to the stock FD harness very rare. Instead of cleaning up the stock engine harness. I just went ahead and bought a rywire single turbo harness. I also installed (4) 1000cc ID to help with staging and ease on tuning.
05-09-14, 01:53 PM
#19
When I still had the PFC I was thinking about going with the rywire harness. I ended up creating my own for the experience. I am trying to do everything in house and learn a bit of everything. Going to attempt the bodywork myself soon too. I have a friend who have considerable skill in wiring so he will be the mentor.
The 1000cc injector setup is what the tuner wants to use too. I may have to go that route but I will talk to him first to see what he thinks. I will be using the LT10C.
The 1000cc injector setup is what the tuner wants to use too. I may have to go that route but I will talk to him first to see what he thinks. I will be using the LT10C.
05-09-14, 05:14 PM
#25
I think they are still well received in Australia, Porto Rico, and my tuner out here swears by them. I was thinking the Adaptronic looks pretty attractive but I will go with what he knows. I think he's pushing over 1000hp on his 13B drag car so it must be ok.