Half ass 2 or Whole ass 1
12-05-16, 04:45 PM
#102
the list is long. theres quite bit of work that needs to be done before i can drive it the way i want. the bare minimum is brakes, wheels and tires, suspension, tune. i have everything i need to do written down in my book but depending on whether or not i can contain my excitement will determine if i just do the minimum or hold off and wait until EVERYTHING is done.
the end game is to just have it and enjoy it along with the red one for a little bit. then i plan on selling the red one and building this 1j i have. once the 13b goes, then the 1j is going in. im not in a rush to do that but just know it is inevitable.
the end game is to just have it and enjoy it along with the red one for a little bit. then i plan on selling the red one and building this 1j i have. once the 13b goes, then the 1j is going in. im not in a rush to do that but just know it is inevitable.
01-09-17, 03:55 AM
#103
Rotary Enthusiast
Nice restoration, looks like a whole new car from when you began. You have some great roads that fit the FD in North Carolina, we typically take a trip up there once a year to drive the Blue Ridge Parkway and visit Asheville.
Are you going through an importer to do the paperwork or is that stuff you can file on your own? I know down here in Florida it's easy to register a "State" legal car with the JDM vin but it won't be Federally legal. I assume yours is a 92 or 93 and will be federally legal.
Are you going through an importer to do the paperwork or is that stuff you can file on your own? I know down here in Florida it's easy to register a "State" legal car with the JDM vin but it won't be Federally legal. I assume yours is a 92 or 93 and will be federally legal.
01-09-17, 11:04 AM
#104
thanks... unfortunately im in eastern nc so theres nothing really out here but flat land. all the roads are wayyy out west as far as i know. im going through an importer to bring it over. 7tune if you ever heard of them. adam zillin is handling the whole process. it will be delivered to my door with all the paperwork. its being imported under the 25 year rule so it will be federally legal and everything. i wont have one of those cars where i cant give you a straight answer as to whether or not its allowed to be in the states, which is something i am very proud of. my car is feb92 so by the time it gets to customs, it should be feb so it will be legal to the day. nothing gray or shady about the importation. its all being done 100% legal and correct.
01-11-17, 10:15 AM
#105
Rotary Enthusiast
thanks... unfortunately im in eastern nc so theres nothing really out here but flat land. all the roads are wayyy out west as far as i know. im going through an importer to bring it over. 7tune if you ever heard of them. adam zillin is handling the whole process. it will be delivered to my door with all the paperwork. its being imported under the 25 year rule so it will be federally legal and everything. i wont have one of those cars where i cant give you a straight answer as to whether or not its allowed to be in the states, which is something i am very proud of. my car is feb92 so by the time it gets to customs, it should be feb so it will be legal to the day. nothing gray or shady about the importation. its all being done 100% legal and correct.
01-11-17, 06:39 PM
#106
yea, i didnt want to chance figuring this process out and mess something up. it was a little extra for the "vip experience" but i know for a fact everything is done right. im pretty sure i contacted montu when i was looking for an importer and they told me no..... along with a bunch of other companies. i contacted rivsu first and they said 5000$ STARTING. theres no way on gods green earth im paying a premium like that. they paint the picture of a premier service and for that, their prices are much higher than everyone else but i dont see the value.
adam at 7tune is a great contact and he is giving just the same service as rivsu would have. the biggest difference being adam is a person with a face. had i of went with rivsu i would been assigned a number and a representative. i can contact adam at any point through facebook and he is always available. i with i could be happier with his service but i cant. im maxed out in satisfaction points. he answers all my questions and gives me more info than i could ask for. i feel as though i got a MUCH better deal going with adam.
as far as parts go, i have boxes on boxes of RHD specific parts to include interior parts. ive been collecting since 2011. i have more than i could possibly need. on top of that, majority of the parts on my car are new or super low mileage. i also have a couple contacts still in japan should i ever need anything. i am as prepared as i can be.
adam at 7tune is a great contact and he is giving just the same service as rivsu would have. the biggest difference being adam is a person with a face. had i of went with rivsu i would been assigned a number and a representative. i can contact adam at any point through facebook and he is always available. i with i could be happier with his service but i cant. im maxed out in satisfaction points. he answers all my questions and gives me more info than i could ask for. i feel as though i got a MUCH better deal going with adam.
as far as parts go, i have boxes on boxes of RHD specific parts to include interior parts. ive been collecting since 2011. i have more than i could possibly need. on top of that, majority of the parts on my car are new or super low mileage. i also have a couple contacts still in japan should i ever need anything. i am as prepared as i can be.
03-11-17, 03:02 PM
#109
so the car has arrived in jacksonville and will soon be delivered to me... i will update the thread with all sorts of information some time next week. i plan on living in the garage for a while. theres a lot of work to be done before the car can be driven normally. im foaming at the mouth with anticipation of having my car back. i will be posting my paperwork when it arrives to quiet the mess on all of page 2 of this thread. V is for victory....
Last edited by cr-rex; 03-11-17 at 03:07 PM.
03-29-17, 10:03 PM
#113
thanks man... you and everyone else in my feedback helped me get to this point and its much appreciated...
on with the update.... super long post ahead and a TLDR version is at the bottom if you just care to look at the pictures...
the car was picked up in early december from okinawa to make its trip here
last thursday (march 23) the car arrived on the trailer and was mine mine mine all over again. as you can see, its dirty. so dirty, that it was noted on the delivery sheet as a discrepancy. the car is covered in bird **** and a bunch of other....... stuff. an extensive detail is coming soon. i was 100% expecting the car to be damaged in some way and i am very grateful that it is as minor as it is.
where the bumper meets the fender. its like this on both sides
on the bottom of the front bumper
off the trailer, we pushed it into the garage and i got right to work. on to jack stands it went.
step one was to do all the brakes. rotors, pads, lines, e brake cables and a bleed. while doing the brakes i did the suspension as well. im using fightex coilovers ( FIGHTEX Damper - TODA RACING ), stoptech rotors, stoptech rear pads and hawk front pads, stoptech brake lines, brand new oem ebrake cables and dot3 fluid. i want to note that the ebrake cables i replaced without removing the exhaust and WITH a stock cat installed. it can definitely be done. the car has been sitting for a few years now and all of that time, sitting outside. fresh off the truck and you can see how clean the wheel wells still are. of course the car has been washed a few times while it was in japan but this is amazing to me. the body guy did a great job.
after all 4 corners were taken care of and the clutch slave bled, next was to move under the car and start dealing with that. the midpipe is from rx7store and i had the dolphin tail from forever ago. i am using an re-a downpipe on the n3c1 twins non sequential. for shipping purposes i left the stock cat on there with a fujistubo legalis r. it looks stockish and makes very little noise. while under there, i did a lot of looking around for corrosion or anything crazy. it feels good to be able to say the under of my car is beautiful. there are a couple spots that can be hit with a wire wheel and recoated but overall its outstanding.
on with the update.... super long post ahead and a TLDR version is at the bottom if you just care to look at the pictures...
the car was picked up in early december from okinawa to make its trip here
last thursday (march 23) the car arrived on the trailer and was mine mine mine all over again. as you can see, its dirty. so dirty, that it was noted on the delivery sheet as a discrepancy. the car is covered in bird **** and a bunch of other....... stuff. an extensive detail is coming soon. i was 100% expecting the car to be damaged in some way and i am very grateful that it is as minor as it is.
where the bumper meets the fender. its like this on both sides
on the bottom of the front bumper
off the trailer, we pushed it into the garage and i got right to work. on to jack stands it went.
step one was to do all the brakes. rotors, pads, lines, e brake cables and a bleed. while doing the brakes i did the suspension as well. im using fightex coilovers ( FIGHTEX Damper - TODA RACING ), stoptech rotors, stoptech rear pads and hawk front pads, stoptech brake lines, brand new oem ebrake cables and dot3 fluid. i want to note that the ebrake cables i replaced without removing the exhaust and WITH a stock cat installed. it can definitely be done. the car has been sitting for a few years now and all of that time, sitting outside. fresh off the truck and you can see how clean the wheel wells still are. of course the car has been washed a few times while it was in japan but this is amazing to me. the body guy did a great job.
after all 4 corners were taken care of and the clutch slave bled, next was to move under the car and start dealing with that. the midpipe is from rx7store and i had the dolphin tail from forever ago. i am using an re-a downpipe on the n3c1 twins non sequential. for shipping purposes i left the stock cat on there with a fujistubo legalis r. it looks stockish and makes very little noise. while under there, i did a lot of looking around for corrosion or anything crazy. it feels good to be able to say the under of my car is beautiful. there are a couple spots that can be hit with a wire wheel and recoated but overall its outstanding.
03-29-17, 10:04 PM
#114
next was fuel. my biggest worry was that when i open the fuel tank that im going to see something nasty. the tank has basically been on E with a little bit of 2 stroke in it for a couple years now. its been started up 3 times a week while being stored but only enough fuel was ever in the car for idling purposes. luckily the tank is in great shape. the little bit of fuel that was in there was a little murky and it had some stuff floating in it but it wasnt of any real concern. it just looked like there was more 2 stroke in it than fuel. i have since put 5 gallons of fresh fuel in it and swapped the fuel pump to an aem unit. i was shopping around and wanted to try something different than the usual denso pump. after some research, this aem is pretty popular with the evo guys so i went for it. install was pretty straight forward. i also did the rewire while i was in there.
deatschwerks actually makes a rewire kit. its 40$ and comes with everything you need. it makes the job even easier than it already is. the way i did the install on both cars was to actually depin the red/white wire from both ends of the plug and add terminals to the DW kit and plug them in to the ends of the pins. it makes a bridge basically. then i tape and heat shrink the connections. you dont have to do any cutting or splicing of the factory wiring and it takes 2 minutes to undo if for whatever reason you needed to undo it. then the little screws that hold the fuel pump cover on were replaced with these tiny allen head bolts. its much much much better. if youve ever taken the cover off then you know how much of a pain those screws CAN be.
moving forward from that, the odyssey battery has fulfilled its purpose and gave its life for the cause. that thing is dead..... extra dead. so i upgraded to the braille. its smaller, lighter and just overall better.
next was to change the fuel filter and relocate it. my initial plan was to move it to the rear of the subframe but it didnt work out that way. while under there i figured i would just remove the charcoal canister just to do it. why not? it was a lot more difficult than i thought it would be. i know for the future how to remove it more easily. disconnect the left side ebrake cable from the caliper and the little mount clip and let it hang out of the way. then just cut the line coming off the top of the canister thats accessible from the rear of the subframe. unbolt the canister and flip it upside down. then remove it. with it out, im looking at all the extra space and noticed the 2 mount holes for the canister are spaced pretty close. i put the fuel filter bracket up there to check and the spacing is exact. so thats where my fuel filter lives now. i had to extend the one hose and the other stock one is fine. im pretty happy with the result
deatschwerks actually makes a rewire kit. its 40$ and comes with everything you need. it makes the job even easier than it already is. the way i did the install on both cars was to actually depin the red/white wire from both ends of the plug and add terminals to the DW kit and plug them in to the ends of the pins. it makes a bridge basically. then i tape and heat shrink the connections. you dont have to do any cutting or splicing of the factory wiring and it takes 2 minutes to undo if for whatever reason you needed to undo it. then the little screws that hold the fuel pump cover on were replaced with these tiny allen head bolts. its much much much better. if youve ever taken the cover off then you know how much of a pain those screws CAN be.
moving forward from that, the odyssey battery has fulfilled its purpose and gave its life for the cause. that thing is dead..... extra dead. so i upgraded to the braille. its smaller, lighter and just overall better.
next was to change the fuel filter and relocate it. my initial plan was to move it to the rear of the subframe but it didnt work out that way. while under there i figured i would just remove the charcoal canister just to do it. why not? it was a lot more difficult than i thought it would be. i know for the future how to remove it more easily. disconnect the left side ebrake cable from the caliper and the little mount clip and let it hang out of the way. then just cut the line coming off the top of the canister thats accessible from the rear of the subframe. unbolt the canister and flip it upside down. then remove it. with it out, im looking at all the extra space and noticed the 2 mount holes for the canister are spaced pretty close. i put the fuel filter bracket up there to check and the spacing is exact. so thats where my fuel filter lives now. i had to extend the one hose and the other stock one is fine. im pretty happy with the result
03-29-17, 10:05 PM
#115
then onto the fun stuff: the engine bay. the first thing i did was remove the air pump, split air pipe, acv and whatever that pipe is that goes down to the stock cat. next was to adjust the radiator. it sat a little higher than i would like and the angle was a little more up. the next issue was to find a belt the correct length for a stock alt, wp and main with no air pump. extremely difficult task believe it or not but i found it. its the ac belt from a 2013 chevy spark. the only issue is that its a 4 rib instead of 5. its a wider 4 rib so im ok with it for now until i swap the pulleys out. the most daunting part of this whole process was the coolant flush. so i got to work on that. drained out what was in there, pulled the thermostat out to make things easier and i poured a whole bottle of the prestone coolant system flush in and filled the rest with distilled water. ultimately it took 20 gallons of distilled water and a lot of hours to get all the coolant flush chemical out. it foams quite a bit to let you its chemically assaulting something (probably the water seals 
). you can see the results below, it definitely works.
from the left, the first bottle is from the initial drain. the second bottle was from the prestone and the third bottle was from third flush. then it just looked like that for a while. it started clearing up around gallon 8 as you can see. at gallon 20, the water came out clear enough to drink........ sort of
with the flush done, i could move on to putting the engine bay to the way i want it. the matching rear intake was installed and the super cool filler neck i got years ago was installed. i changed out the mismatched color vacuum lines for some simple black and also mounted the boost control solenoid. spark plugs were swapped and an oil change was done. the tps also had to be recalibrated. closed throttle i was showing 1.2v. all the general maintenance stuff is taken care of.
once all the mechanical stuff was handled, i moved on to the other fun stuff: wiring, body panels and wheels. for wiring, it was just the boost controller. im using the greddy profec b2. the install is a simple 2 prong plug with just power and ground. then next was to mount the zeitronix zt2 display box. i racked my brain for a while trying to figure out where im going to put it and figured i would just sacrifice the cup holders and cubby. i trimmed the raido bracket a little bit and the box slipped right in. i used some rubber strips that came with the braille battery tray to line the bracket so raw aluminum wasnt grinding on the body of the display. it also helps stabilize it. ultimately, its mounted to the bottom of the radio with some really nice velcro along with the boost controller on top of the steering column. once i get the radio bezel on there, its gonna be a really clean install if i do say so myself. i also put the banzai commander holder in. then as a nice touch, the blue tinted broadway mirror is in.
). you can see the results below, it definitely works.
from the left, the first bottle is from the initial drain. the second bottle was from the prestone and the third bottle was from third flush. then it just looked like that for a while. it started clearing up around gallon 8 as you can see. at gallon 20, the water came out clear enough to drink........ sort of
with the flush done, i could move on to putting the engine bay to the way i want it. the matching rear intake was installed and the super cool filler neck i got years ago was installed. i changed out the mismatched color vacuum lines for some simple black and also mounted the boost control solenoid. spark plugs were swapped and an oil change was done. the tps also had to be recalibrated. closed throttle i was showing 1.2v. all the general maintenance stuff is taken care of.
once all the mechanical stuff was handled, i moved on to the other fun stuff: wiring, body panels and wheels. for wiring, it was just the boost controller. im using the greddy profec b2. the install is a simple 2 prong plug with just power and ground. then next was to mount the zeitronix zt2 display box. i racked my brain for a while trying to figure out where im going to put it and figured i would just sacrifice the cup holders and cubby. i trimmed the raido bracket a little bit and the box slipped right in. i used some rubber strips that came with the braille battery tray to line the bracket so raw aluminum wasnt grinding on the body of the display. it also helps stabilize it. ultimately, its mounted to the bottom of the radio with some really nice velcro along with the boost controller on top of the steering column. once i get the radio bezel on there, its gonna be a really clean install if i do say so myself. i also put the banzai commander holder in. then as a nice touch, the blue tinted broadway mirror is in.
Last edited by cr-rex; 03-30-17 at 12:13 AM.
03-29-17, 10:05 PM
#116
once the inside electronics were all set up, i moved to the outside to install the re-a diffuser and vortex generators. all legit re-a parts.
fitting the wheels was one of the most exciting parts of this "refurb". Volk TE37V 17x9.5+15 and 10+20 with 255/40 and 275/40 BFG gforce sport comp 2. just looking at the set up off the car, its meaty and aggressive. i love it. the fitment is pretty much spot on. i think a little less camber and it will be perfect. i need an alignment pretty bad on this. each wheel looks like its going in its own direction. with these wheels being so expensive, i wanted to get a lug that used a key on the inside of the lug so i dont have to worry about a socket marring the lug holes. i went with the RAYS lugs. these are super nice and 3 pieces. they are exactly what you would expect from a 256$ set of lugs lol.
with the wheels on and the car on the ground, i was able to make the final adjustments to the ride height. its set low enough that the wheel gap is minimal but high enough the diffuser doesnt scrape leaving or entering the driveway. i drove it around the block a couple times and hit some dips in the road pretty hard on purpose and nothing on the bottom of the car touched the ground at all. i think there may have been a few other little odds and ends that im forgetting but thats all the stuff i did from thursday to tuesday. it was a lot of long hours in the garage but well worth it.
now, i am trying to get the car registered and plated. i will be reporting back with that once its done. i will be posting shots of all my paperwork once thats done. everything with this car is legal, federally legal. 100% legal. no funny stuff or "i'll get my layer to explain it" type stuff. just 100% federally legal imported fd. no government agency will come knocking on my door.
TLDR:::::
i got the car, did some work on it and drove it a little. its good. now im trying to get a license plate.
fitting the wheels was one of the most exciting parts of this "refurb". Volk TE37V 17x9.5+15 and 10+20 with 255/40 and 275/40 BFG gforce sport comp 2. just looking at the set up off the car, its meaty and aggressive. i love it. the fitment is pretty much spot on. i think a little less camber and it will be perfect. i need an alignment pretty bad on this. each wheel looks like its going in its own direction. with these wheels being so expensive, i wanted to get a lug that used a key on the inside of the lug so i dont have to worry about a socket marring the lug holes. i went with the RAYS lugs. these are super nice and 3 pieces. they are exactly what you would expect from a 256$ set of lugs lol.
with the wheels on and the car on the ground, i was able to make the final adjustments to the ride height. its set low enough that the wheel gap is minimal but high enough the diffuser doesnt scrape leaving or entering the driveway. i drove it around the block a couple times and hit some dips in the road pretty hard on purpose and nothing on the bottom of the car touched the ground at all. i think there may have been a few other little odds and ends that im forgetting but thats all the stuff i did from thursday to tuesday. it was a lot of long hours in the garage but well worth it.
now, i am trying to get the car registered and plated. i will be reporting back with that once its done. i will be posting shots of all my paperwork once thats done. everything with this car is legal, federally legal. 100% legal. no funny stuff or "i'll get my layer to explain it" type stuff. just 100% federally legal imported fd. no government agency will come knocking on my door.
TLDR:::::
i got the car, did some work on it and drove it a little. its good. now im trying to get a license plate.
03-29-17, 10:30 PM
#117
also some notes about living with this car..............
today was the first day i drove it outside of "around the block" as i got temp tags this morning. maybe because im so used to being in a RHD car it doesnt bother me any but on these LHD roads, i am in no way inconvenienced while driving. at all..... like, there is no difference than being in a lhd car. its easy... incredibly easy. all the people that are simply speculating what it would be like and saying all the negative things about it, i can say youre wrong. this is in no way a hindrance to my ability to drive. i did 150km worth of driving today..... according to the cluster. everything from highway, to city, to rush hour traffic, to crowded parking lots, to just around town. at no point was i like "damn, i cant see. i wish i was on the other side of the car."
another thing, with power steering removed and the ports on the rack just left open, this car is incredibly easy to drive and steer. even with the size tires im using. from a dead stop the wheel turns with ease yet has a little weight to it. i have a manual steering rack in my integra and turning that requires triple the effort of the fd. on top of that, my steering wheel is tiny in the fd vs the stock bus sized wheel in the integra.
driving with wheels this size is a pretty wild feeling. ive been in a car with wide wheels like this so its a new thing to me. you can definitely feel the width if that makes any sense. i dont know how to explain it.
of course i have to mention the interactions from other drivers. i find it odd that people freak out when they see a RHD car. its as if they didnt know such a thing even existed. a few people didnt even know what the car was. each time i replied with telling them it was an rx7 and they would always respond "oh, its a mazda." to me, im shocked that they even know that lol. the one crappy thing about this car is it really attracts the **** heads. people driving next to you trying to get you to race, driving in your blind spot, doing ricer fly byes... you name it.
i need an alignment..... really bad. each wheel is basically pointing in a different direction and i have to hold the wheel ~45 degrees left to keep straight
the brakes are amazing.
stock these stock seats are very comfortable. the cloth ones are infinitely better than whatever that other material is... suede-ish.
not having ac in this car isnt a bother. it was high 80s today with minimal cloud cover and all the rays the sun had to offer.
i worry a lot about the diffuser hitting or scraping something. i went in and out of a pretty steep parking lot today and the bottom of the car didnt touch it at all. im convinced i have the perfect height set.
there are a few bumps and clunks i need to figure out. my front left has a loud clunking sound whenever i go over bumps and stuff. theres also a strange "wob wob wob" sound when i hold the clutch down. it doesnt happen right away either. if i push in the clutch, it takes a second to start. then when i let off, it goes away. im just writing these things off as minor for now. i got on it pretty good today and everything held up great.
i need to calibrate the speedo. when i was driving the car in japan, it was off in km/h because of the 4.7 diff. now were in america and its mega off. i had the speedo pegged out on the highway. i was probably doing 75-80mph and the needle was buried. definitely need to get on that.
i had a lot of fun today driving around. it definitely is exotic in the sense that its very different and unique from the typical driving experience...
today was the first day i drove it outside of "around the block" as i got temp tags this morning. maybe because im so used to being in a RHD car it doesnt bother me any but on these LHD roads, i am in no way inconvenienced while driving. at all..... like, there is no difference than being in a lhd car. its easy... incredibly easy. all the people that are simply speculating what it would be like and saying all the negative things about it, i can say youre wrong. this is in no way a hindrance to my ability to drive. i did 150km worth of driving today..... according to the cluster. everything from highway, to city, to rush hour traffic, to crowded parking lots, to just around town. at no point was i like "damn, i cant see. i wish i was on the other side of the car."
another thing, with power steering removed and the ports on the rack just left open, this car is incredibly easy to drive and steer. even with the size tires im using. from a dead stop the wheel turns with ease yet has a little weight to it. i have a manual steering rack in my integra and turning that requires triple the effort of the fd. on top of that, my steering wheel is tiny in the fd vs the stock bus sized wheel in the integra.
driving with wheels this size is a pretty wild feeling. ive been in a car with wide wheels like this so its a new thing to me. you can definitely feel the width if that makes any sense. i dont know how to explain it.
of course i have to mention the interactions from other drivers. i find it odd that people freak out when they see a RHD car. its as if they didnt know such a thing even existed. a few people didnt even know what the car was. each time i replied with telling them it was an rx7 and they would always respond "oh, its a mazda." to me, im shocked that they even know that lol. the one crappy thing about this car is it really attracts the **** heads. people driving next to you trying to get you to race, driving in your blind spot, doing ricer fly byes... you name it.
i need an alignment..... really bad. each wheel is basically pointing in a different direction and i have to hold the wheel ~45 degrees left to keep straight
the brakes are amazing.
stock these stock seats are very comfortable. the cloth ones are infinitely better than whatever that other material is... suede-ish.
not having ac in this car isnt a bother. it was high 80s today with minimal cloud cover and all the rays the sun had to offer.
i worry a lot about the diffuser hitting or scraping something. i went in and out of a pretty steep parking lot today and the bottom of the car didnt touch it at all. im convinced i have the perfect height set.
there are a few bumps and clunks i need to figure out. my front left has a loud clunking sound whenever i go over bumps and stuff. theres also a strange "wob wob wob" sound when i hold the clutch down. it doesnt happen right away either. if i push in the clutch, it takes a second to start. then when i let off, it goes away. im just writing these things off as minor for now. i got on it pretty good today and everything held up great.
i need to calibrate the speedo. when i was driving the car in japan, it was off in km/h because of the 4.7 diff. now were in america and its mega off. i had the speedo pegged out on the highway. i was probably doing 75-80mph and the needle was buried. definitely need to get on that.
i had a lot of fun today driving around. it definitely is exotic in the sense that its very different and unique from the typical driving experience...
Last edited by cr-rex; 03-29-17 at 10:41 PM.
03-30-17, 08:56 PM
#118
update for today:::::
we got the vmount set up done. justin at justins custom auto in orlando is amazing. he made this possible with incredible ease. i went into this with the thought he was going to have to mod the end tanks and do some cutting and all sorts of modding to the intercooler. surprisingly, after the two tabs on the end got cut off, it slid right into the engine bay like a glove. almost as if it was intentionally designed to be a v mount. this made the job super easy. all he had to make were the pipes. luckily i brought a lot of pipes for him to use to chop up and do whatever with. the intakes had to be redone as well. in course of making the piping, the rear turbo intake pipe was conceived and it was that much less work. he was able to recycle the mount tabs from the side to make mount for the bottom. where that cross bar for the stock intercooler normally goes, well the body parts that bar attaches to is where the intercooler is bolted. ducting is on the way for this set up along with a vented hood and one of those "cooling panels" for all the gap on the top.
after this was done, i headed over to kilo racing to get a tune. in that process, he found an issue with a spot on the map. the cells dont adjust the afr no matter what the value is. if the rpm is held there, it sounds like the ignition is breaking up and it spits white smoke. but its only in that small section. its like 6 cells. this is a concern for him so i will be spending tonight trying to fix it. he said if i can fix it tonight, he will tune it tomorrow. once the tune is done, then i can finally get the car detailed. i went ahead wiped the bird **** off and rinsed the whole car but its still filthy. so more updates tomorrow or later tonight.
we got the vmount set up done. justin at justins custom auto in orlando is amazing. he made this possible with incredible ease. i went into this with the thought he was going to have to mod the end tanks and do some cutting and all sorts of modding to the intercooler. surprisingly, after the two tabs on the end got cut off, it slid right into the engine bay like a glove. almost as if it was intentionally designed to be a v mount. this made the job super easy. all he had to make were the pipes. luckily i brought a lot of pipes for him to use to chop up and do whatever with. the intakes had to be redone as well. in course of making the piping, the rear turbo intake pipe was conceived and it was that much less work. he was able to recycle the mount tabs from the side to make mount for the bottom. where that cross bar for the stock intercooler normally goes, well the body parts that bar attaches to is where the intercooler is bolted. ducting is on the way for this set up along with a vented hood and one of those "cooling panels" for all the gap on the top.
after this was done, i headed over to kilo racing to get a tune. in that process, he found an issue with a spot on the map. the cells dont adjust the afr no matter what the value is. if the rpm is held there, it sounds like the ignition is breaking up and it spits white smoke. but its only in that small section. its like 6 cells. this is a concern for him so i will be spending tonight trying to fix it. he said if i can fix it tonight, he will tune it tomorrow. once the tune is done, then i can finally get the car detailed. i went ahead wiped the bird **** off and rinsed the whole car but its still filthy. so more updates tomorrow or later tonight.
Last edited by cr-rex; 03-30-17 at 08:59 PM.
03-31-17, 07:53 PM
#119
fixed the problem.... not sure what one thing it was but i fixed the little ground on the coil pack harness and mounted them a different way, adjusted the little arm thing on top of the throttle body for the upper throttle plates and adjusted the tps. after that everything is better. i ran out of time today to get it tuned being at the dmv legally getting my legal license plates for my legally imported car....... legally
so tomorrow the car will be getting detailed and on monday, license plate and tune. these next few days are going to be exciting.
so tomorrow the car will be getting detailed and on monday, license plate and tune. these next few days are going to be exciting.
04-01-17, 02:15 AM
#121
Nope, no cutting to the rear. Just super pulled pulled to be flush with the fender. I can take some pictures for you. The rear fender kit is from shine so they included a cap that goes on top of the stock fuel door to make it flush with the over fender.
04-01-17, 09:49 AM
#122
Yes post more pics of the rear arches if you will please. I've got the same arches to fit on mine but i don't really want to do any cutting to the body if i can help it. The problem is though is that these arches or 'overfenders' as they're better known are used for a reason other than looks and that is to enable the fitment of wider wheels. If no cutting took place, then aren't those wider wheels going to scrape like hell againts the metal lip?
04-01-17, 10:40 AM
#123
Not at all. The fender under it was pulled like hell so it's actually flush with the over fender. Also, my ride height isn't obnoxious so I'm not tucking wheels. I have plenty of clearance between the wheel and the arch. The wheel is a 17x10+20 with a 275/40. I've clearance where I could go with a lower offset if I wanted. The pictures will better explain. I will post them tonight.
04-06-17, 12:09 PM
#124
RX-7 Bad Ass
iTrader: (55)
Looks great! I REALLY hope you make it up to Deal's Gap this year, would love to see it in person!
Dale
Dale
04-07-17, 08:18 AM
#125
thanks dale.... i would have loved to make it this year since i blew it last year. i start school on tuesday and it wouldnt really be possible for me to make the trip. if all goes well, which im sure it will, 100% for sure next year with both cars. i'll go ahead and say it so that i have a goal to work towards. by then, both cars should be in their "ultimate forms" and you can see what kind of work i am capable of...