GrandMighty.com's Project R2
09-02-14, 07:53 PM
#126
has a Full Member
I feel a need to reply, since your car in 99 spec/regamaster form was my perfect vision of an FD. The V8 conversion is looking amazing, but it's all I can do to keep from shaking my computer and scream "WHYYYYYY!!!!" You speak of the logic of going V8... but wouldn't it have been logical to save 30g's and enjoy what many would consider a perfect FD? I realize it's a fruitless argument, it seems that some people just have to keep trying new things. I look forward to some vids of this thing tearing up a roadcourse. 
09-03-14, 04:32 PM
#127
I understand your sentiments. During my decision making process and figuring the "logical" thing to do, I had to look at the larger picture rather than focus primarily on the monetary aspect of going V8.
I was already past the point of return with the car - there was no way I could sell it and get the money I would want for it. As far as alternative car choices altogether, I like a lot of the newer offerings out there, but there are very few I'd actually want to own myself. The only cars that begin to catch my interest are all 60k+. Going that route didn't seem worthwhile, so I was content with holding onto the RX-7 and pursuing a longer term vision.
The single turbo setup before was fine, but it was still mounted to an original 20 year old rotary. I had to have something that could give me complete confidence. If I stayed rotary, I would have wanted to do a full rebuild and probably switch to E85, which would have been quite expensive as well. This is when going V8 started to seem more and more optimal for me.
Hopefully that makes sense and puts into perspective my rationale. There were simply too many compelling benefits and conveniences of going V8 to choose otherwise for the long run.
I was already past the point of return with the car - there was no way I could sell it and get the money I would want for it. As far as alternative car choices altogether, I like a lot of the newer offerings out there, but there are very few I'd actually want to own myself. The only cars that begin to catch my interest are all 60k+. Going that route didn't seem worthwhile, so I was content with holding onto the RX-7 and pursuing a longer term vision.
The single turbo setup before was fine, but it was still mounted to an original 20 year old rotary. I had to have something that could give me complete confidence. If I stayed rotary, I would have wanted to do a full rebuild and probably switch to E85, which would have been quite expensive as well. This is when going V8 started to seem more and more optimal for me.
Hopefully that makes sense and puts into perspective my rationale. There were simply too many compelling benefits and conveniences of going V8 to choose otherwise for the long run.
09-03-14, 05:07 PM
#128
i've considered doing a clean v8 swap like yours as well, ericsworld, and i understand exactly why you did it.
i'd still do an LS swap if i found a crazy good deal on one, or someone offered to by my driveline or something, but i setup my car mainly for tracking, and i have done 5 track days in my FD and i've always been the only FD at the track, which is a cool feeling. i imagine that if i see another one at a track event it's going to have an LS engine in it, as there are more LS FDs tracking than rotary FDs these days, so i'll still have the only rotary FD at the track
i can't say i havent thought about and LS swap though just for tracking.
that being said though, my FD seems to have almost the highest "wow factor" among all the cars at the track events. it's like people are very surprised to see a turbo rotary car from the 90s ripping on the track and being the same speed as the z06s. at the last event i did i think there were 5 997 GT3s, caymans, 7 or 8 corvettes, a couple GTRs, 3 350Zs, about 10 M3s, etc. and everyone comes by to chat and ask about FD. it's almost weird that people are so interested in an old rx7, but it is pretty cool to be the only guy there with one, especially one that is quick on the track and still has a rotary in it.
but if you're doing an all-purpose car for cruising, DDing, weekend HPDEs, autocrosses, drag racing, etc. you can't beat an LS/T56 swap. there's no doubt. the power, being NA and having no thoughts of boost control, intake air temps or fuel tuning, etc. are all appealing and proves for much more consistency (and probably even faster lap times).
i'd still do an LS swap if i found a crazy good deal on one, or someone offered to by my driveline or something, but i setup my car mainly for tracking, and i have done 5 track days in my FD and i've always been the only FD at the track, which is a cool feeling. i imagine that if i see another one at a track event it's going to have an LS engine in it, as there are more LS FDs tracking than rotary FDs these days, so i'll still have the only rotary FD at the track
i can't say i havent thought about and LS swap though just for tracking.that being said though, my FD seems to have almost the highest "wow factor" among all the cars at the track events. it's like people are very surprised to see a turbo rotary car from the 90s ripping on the track and being the same speed as the z06s. at the last event i did i think there were 5 997 GT3s, caymans, 7 or 8 corvettes, a couple GTRs, 3 350Zs, about 10 M3s, etc. and everyone comes by to chat and ask about FD. it's almost weird that people are so interested in an old rx7, but it is pretty cool to be the only guy there with one, especially one that is quick on the track and still has a rotary in it.
but if you're doing an all-purpose car for cruising, DDing, weekend HPDEs, autocrosses, drag racing, etc. you can't beat an LS/T56 swap. there's no doubt. the power, being NA and having no thoughts of boost control, intake air temps or fuel tuning, etc. are all appealing and proves for much more consistency (and probably even faster lap times).
09-09-14, 12:31 AM
#130
i've considered doing a clean v8 swap like yours as well, ericsworld, and i understand exactly why you did it.
i'd still do an LS swap if i found a crazy good deal on one, or someone offered to by my driveline or something, but i setup my car mainly for tracking, and i have done 5 track days in my FD and i've always been the only FD at the track, which is a cool feeling. i imagine that if i see another one at a track event it's going to have an LS engine in it, as there are more LS FDs tracking than rotary FDs these days, so i'll still have the only rotary FD at the track i can't say i havent thought about and LS swap though just for tracking.
that being said though, my FD seems to have almost the highest "wow factor" among all the cars at the track events. it's like people are very surprised to see a turbo rotary car from the 90s ripping on the track and being the same speed as the z06s. at the last event i did i think there were 5 997 GT3s, caymans, 7 or 8 corvettes, a couple GTRs, 3 350Zs, about 10 M3s, etc. and everyone comes by to chat and ask about FD. it's almost weird that people are so interested in an old rx7, but it is pretty cool to be the only guy there with one, especially one that is quick on the track and still has a rotary in it.
but if you're doing an all-purpose car for cruising, DDing, weekend HPDEs, autocrosses, drag racing, etc. you can't beat an LS/T56 swap. there's no doubt. the power, being NA and having no thoughts of boost control, intake air temps or fuel tuning, etc. are all appealing and proves for much more consistency (and probably even faster lap times).
i'd still do an LS swap if i found a crazy good deal on one, or someone offered to by my driveline or something, but i setup my car mainly for tracking, and i have done 5 track days in my FD and i've always been the only FD at the track, which is a cool feeling. i imagine that if i see another one at a track event it's going to have an LS engine in it, as there are more LS FDs tracking than rotary FDs these days, so i'll still have the only rotary FD at the track i can't say i havent thought about and LS swap though just for tracking.
that being said though, my FD seems to have almost the highest "wow factor" among all the cars at the track events. it's like people are very surprised to see a turbo rotary car from the 90s ripping on the track and being the same speed as the z06s. at the last event i did i think there were 5 997 GT3s, caymans, 7 or 8 corvettes, a couple GTRs, 3 350Zs, about 10 M3s, etc. and everyone comes by to chat and ask about FD. it's almost weird that people are so interested in an old rx7, but it is pretty cool to be the only guy there with one, especially one that is quick on the track and still has a rotary in it.
but if you're doing an all-purpose car for cruising, DDing, weekend HPDEs, autocrosses, drag racing, etc. you can't beat an LS/T56 swap. there's no doubt. the power, being NA and having no thoughts of boost control, intake air temps or fuel tuning, etc. are all appealing and proves for much more consistency (and probably even faster lap times).
Another update.
The transmission is now mounted, the TR6060 transmission has a different tailhouse which required a modified bracket to be fabricated to mount up with the bushing and brace.
Next, the 2 arms from the MGW Short Shifter and the shifter linkage were measured and cut to move the assembly into the optimal position in the tunnel opening. Otherwise, the shifter would have been mounted too far aft with the TR6060.
The MGW arms feature a straight section, which made the shortening work easier. The cuts had to be exact in order to insure that the arms are the same lengths for proper installation.
All welded back together:
Shifter installed:
Driveshaft installed:
Closer look at the CV joint:
New aluminum, vented catch can for the crankcase/PCV:
Marcus also took the time to change out various fasteners in the engine bay with nicer, stainless steel allen heads.
09-25-14, 10:46 AM
#132
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i have a couple questions as well. as far as the trans mount that you made, how long are those spacers between the bracket and the ploy mount? that is an fbody mount correct?
and also, how much did you cut out of the shifter arms/linkage?
and also, how much did you cut out of the shifter arms/linkage?
09-25-14, 05:17 PM
#134
I would recommend messaging Marcus on Facebook to get the exact specifications of the bracket and shifter arms:
https://www.facebook.com/MFR.Fab
Thanks
Unfortunately, there's not much to update as of late. The swap is getting close with only a few more items to take care of... wiring, fabricating the exhaust, battery, and a few other small things. I checked out the car last week and the AN lines to the catch tank are all routed.
10-20-14, 11:51 PM
#136
FINALLY, progress. The car has admittedly been sitting mostly idle inside the shop while other matters came up. Marcus is in the process of opening another, larger shop and has likely been spending most of his time there setting it up.
Attention has been returned to the car and the exhaust system is now fabricated and installed. It consists of 3″ stainless piping coming off the headers’ v-bands into a y-pipe and Borla muffler. At the other end of the muffler is a single 3.5″ section to a 4″ tip – race style.
Everything is Tig welded together.
The “catback” section has an additional v-band.
Making the cone to adapt the 4″ tip to the exhaust piping:
Catch can lines:
Attention has been returned to the car and the exhaust system is now fabricated and installed. It consists of 3″ stainless piping coming off the headers’ v-bands into a y-pipe and Borla muffler. At the other end of the muffler is a single 3.5″ section to a 4″ tip – race style.
Everything is Tig welded together.
The “catback” section has an additional v-band.
Making the cone to adapt the 4″ tip to the exhaust piping:
Catch can lines:
10-21-14, 12:31 AM
#138
I do want to keep the exterior aesthetics as discreet as possible, with the exception of the exhaust...
I've always wanted my exhausts to be gnarly as ****, and always will.
We'll see how it goes. As long as I don't end up getting impounded or state ref'd, I'll be content.
I've always wanted my exhausts to be gnarly as ****, and always will.
We'll see how it goes. As long as I don't end up getting impounded or state ref'd, I'll be content.
10-25-14, 04:03 PM
#140
With the exhaust fabricated, attention has turned to finishing up the wiring and mounting the battery box. Marcus also redid the intake piping that came with the Samberg radiator kit and its LS7/LS3 MAF adapter. The fitment of this pipe puts it close to the hood with the LS3’s drive-by-wire throttle body, so the goal is to achieve enough clearance to not make contact.
Back when I was still amassing parts for the swapping and in the planning phases, I gave the battery notable thought. I knew I wanted to have the battery moved out of the engine bay. The most popular relocation method has been to place the battery into one of the storage bins behind the seats. It is a clever and compact way of mounting everything, but I didn’t like how the battery was kept near the middle of the car and inside the cabin directly behind the passenger or driver. The ideal position for the battery is at the rear, in the hatch.
After researching the subject, I decided upon an interesting solution: mounting 2 dry cell 6-volt batteries on their side in the spare tire well, and wiring them in series. I picked up a pair of Optima 6-volt batteries to meet this purpose. With the batteries laid on their sides, they should still remain mostly flush to the hatch’s floor when mounted in the tire well. Slide the carpet over and presto.
In the beginning, I shared this concept with Marcus and printed him a picture to follow. Here is the battery box he fabricated for the batteries:
Mounted into the car with the batteries:
Cabling complete. The positive cable goes along the channel through the chassis and directly to the alternator. The ground cable is attached to the chassis and there are 2 more engine grounds in the bay.
With the batteries connected, the car STARTS! Marcus noted that it cranks fast and sent me a quick clip of everything running. Needless to say, things are starting to become very interesting.
Back when I was still amassing parts for the swapping and in the planning phases, I gave the battery notable thought. I knew I wanted to have the battery moved out of the engine bay. The most popular relocation method has been to place the battery into one of the storage bins behind the seats. It is a clever and compact way of mounting everything, but I didn’t like how the battery was kept near the middle of the car and inside the cabin directly behind the passenger or driver. The ideal position for the battery is at the rear, in the hatch.
After researching the subject, I decided upon an interesting solution: mounting 2 dry cell 6-volt batteries on their side in the spare tire well, and wiring them in series. I picked up a pair of Optima 6-volt batteries to meet this purpose. With the batteries laid on their sides, they should still remain mostly flush to the hatch’s floor when mounted in the tire well. Slide the carpet over and presto.
In the beginning, I shared this concept with Marcus and printed him a picture to follow. Here is the battery box he fabricated for the batteries:
Mounted into the car with the batteries:
Cabling complete. The positive cable goes along the channel through the chassis and directly to the alternator. The ground cable is attached to the chassis and there are 2 more engine grounds in the bay.
With the batteries connected, the car STARTS! Marcus noted that it cranks fast and sent me a quick clip of everything running. Needless to say, things are starting to become very interesting.
10-25-14, 06:42 PM
#143
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Might borrow that battery platement. My meth tank will be where my stock battery is(and look like the stock battery) is and I've been trying to think of the best most OE/discreet location possible. I think you nailed it.
Nice work all around, would never LS swap my FD, but will always appreciate the well done ones!
Jason
Nice work all around, would never LS swap my FD, but will always appreciate the well done ones!
Jason
10-25-14, 09:50 PM
#144
Im curious as to why you feel this way about the placement. Not saying there is anything wrong with how you are doing yours, but as far as weight distribution goes you pretty much cant get any more center of mass and lower down than a rear bin. I can see advantages to both ways, but "ideal" may be different depending on what your goal is.
10-25-14, 10:29 PM
#145
Might borrow that battery platement. My meth tank will be where my stock battery is(and look like the stock battery) is and I've been trying to think of the best most OE/discreet location possible. I think you nailed it.
Nice work all around, would never LS swap my FD, but will always appreciate the well done ones!
Jason
Nice work all around, would never LS swap my FD, but will always appreciate the well done ones!
Jason
The 2 6-volt batteries offer high cranking amps and capacity, too. The mini Odyssey battery I used before always needed tendering or charging, although it did weigh quite a bit less.Im curious as to why you feel this way about the placement. Not saying there is anything wrong with how you are doing yours, but as far as weight distribution goes you pretty much cant get any more center of mass and lower down than a rear bin. I can see advantages to both ways, but "ideal" may be different depending on what your goal is.
With a single turbo conversion on a 13B, having the battery in the rear may actually be detrimental since the front end will be lighter than a stock twin turbo. This is why I ended up leaving my battery in the engine bay when I was single turbo. All of this isn't a huge deal but worth some consideration. I still would prefer the battery to be in the rear hatch area if possible, to move it further away from the passengers. But then again a dry cell or lithium battery would probably negate much of the safety risk.
Anyway, you're right, personal preference/application dependent.
10-29-14, 04:57 PM
#148
<<<@!1!@>>>
Likely not, I'll just jump it from the rear hatch.
<<<@!2!@>>>
This should be the battery, x2: OPTIMA® Batteries 8010-044 6V REDTOP® Starting Battery | OPTIMABATTERIES
The height and length of the box should follow the dimensions of the battery. I can get measure out the width of the box for you.
In other news, I'm picking up the car and should have more updates soon.
Likely not, I'll just jump it from the rear hatch.
<<<@!2!@>>>
This should be the battery, x2: OPTIMA® Batteries 8010-044 6V REDTOP® Starting Battery | OPTIMABATTERIES
The height and length of the box should follow the dimensions of the battery. I can get measure out the width of the box for you.
In other news, I'm picking up the car and should have more updates soon.
11-07-14, 01:52 PM
#149
Spent the past couple of weeks sorting out bugs and other teething issues. Marcus took the time to locate and fix drivetrain noises, check over leaks, etc.
When I initially went to pick up the car, the clutch started to lose pressure as I got home. By the next morning, the clutch was back to normal and I was able to drive the car back to Marcus. We thought it was an air bubble in the line that was expanding from heat, but the clutch started behaving more erratically. Instead of only losing pressure as the car drove, it would fall to the floor and come back up on its own. Swapped the Wilwood master cylinder with another new unit, and everything is holding up fine now.
I previous master cylinder was purchased new from Hinson, as well
Similarly, the 929 master cylinder for the brakes was purchased new, and that was also defective out of the box. It wouldn't hold fluid properly and replacing it solved the issue immediately.
It's great to have the car back and the transformation has been amazing. The car drives remarkably easy and pulls like a monster. It's pretty amazing being able to still accelerate on the freeway in 6th gear at 1500 RPM
There are still a few more odds and ends that need to be worked out, but they can all be taken in stride now.
Also put on a new spoiler, still need to install the end caps:
When I initially went to pick up the car, the clutch started to lose pressure as I got home. By the next morning, the clutch was back to normal and I was able to drive the car back to Marcus. We thought it was an air bubble in the line that was expanding from heat, but the clutch started behaving more erratically. Instead of only losing pressure as the car drove, it would fall to the floor and come back up on its own. Swapped the Wilwood master cylinder with another new unit, and everything is holding up fine now.
I previous master cylinder was purchased new from Hinson, as well
Similarly, the 929 master cylinder for the brakes was purchased new, and that was also defective out of the box. It wouldn't hold fluid properly and replacing it solved the issue immediately.
It's great to have the car back and the transformation has been amazing. The car drives remarkably easy and pulls like a monster. It's pretty amazing being able to still accelerate on the freeway in 6th gear at 1500 RPM
There are still a few more odds and ends that need to be worked out, but they can all be taken in stride now.
Also put on a new spoiler, still need to install the end caps:
