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94 R2 N/A 3 Rotor Build

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Old 07-03-14, 11:08 AM
  #201  
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Looking really nice Lenny! That is a lot of customized work. Also see the fender issue was resolved

Did you see what Simon ended up using for the velocity stacks? Might want to consider this. Solves the problem of the stack sucking something in:



Attached Thumbnails 94 R2 N/A 3 Rotor Build-img_2329_zpse8c01c8e.jpg   94 R2 N/A 3 Rotor Build-img_2326_zps7f451039.jpg  
Old 07-03-14, 12:27 PM
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^Those seem restrictive to me. Any before and after dyno plots to confirm there effectivness?
Old 07-03-14, 12:30 PM
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Thanks David. Yea I went up there myself. Fedex is the Devil...
And yes I did see his solution with the individual filters. Im not 100% sure what will be done for filtration. Logan and I were discussing it yesterday. I have some ideas of myself, including a plenum that will lead to a filter located somewhere to pull in cooler air. That may be down the road though.
Old 07-31-14, 01:22 PM
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Decided to go a slightly different way with the body. Picked up a MS hood in CF from Ronin Speedworks. Really quality piece, I am impressed with it. Also may no longer use the FEED wing, thinking about staying wingless with just a Shine lip spoiler. But stay tuned for updates on engine stuff, probably this weekend. Shes getting close!

Attached Thumbnails 94 R2 N/A 3 Rotor Build-ms-hood2.jpg  
Old 07-31-14, 01:37 PM
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That looks nice. Looking forward to the engine update
Old 07-31-14, 01:52 PM
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Originally Posted by Rxmfn7
Decided to go a slightly different way with the body. Picked up a MS hood in CF from Ronin Speedworks. Really quality piece, I am impressed with it. Also may no longer use the FEED wing, thinking about staying wingless with just a Shine lip spoiler. But stay tuned for updates on engine stuff, probably this weekend. Shes getting close!

Still the best hood ever made for the car.

Wingless or a small lip spoiler only seems to look good on FDs with 19s and a huge lip in the rear IMO.
Old 07-31-14, 05:45 PM
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David,
Thanks! I'm looking forward as well.

Gordon,
Appreciate the input. I wasn't planning on running filters as that, although they do look very nice for his application. I have my own idea for a plenum type intake to pull some cool air from outside of the engine bay. I have some things drawn up but need the car for exact measurements. That will probably be one of my projects over this winter

Djseven,
Thanks. I'm a big fan of this hood as well. I had the feed also but decided to go this way, may eventually try and duct the radiator outlet up towards the vent, but well see. It looks pretty sweet anyway And well see on the spoiler, good thing about the lip one is if I don't like it, it's an easy removal I hope to have some dyno numbers soon as I know that's been a big point of controversy, and you have been one eagerly wanting to see.
Old 08-01-14, 02:17 AM
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With the engine location being as far back/down as it is, the oil filter location was basically in the trans tunnel. So some custom pieces had to be fabbed up for the feed from the block, oil filter relocation, as well as T to feed the dry sump setup.





As with everything there are always some things that dont go well that are out of your control. Finally got the driveshaft in, so the exhaust could be mounted for the final time and rear section finished up. But nope, driveshaft place put the wrong flange on.. so have to wait a few more days for a new one. Oh well, but every little thing is a kick in the nuts.



More to follow
Attached Thumbnails 94 R2 N/A 3 Rotor Build-oil-setup1.jpg   94 R2 N/A 3 Rotor Build-oil-setup3.jpg   94 R2 N/A 3 Rotor Build-oil-setup2.jpg   94 R2 N/A 3 Rotor Build-driveshaft-wrong-.jpg  
Old 08-01-14, 03:49 AM
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good choice on filter! lol
Old 08-01-14, 04:34 AM
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Looking good Lenny. You are really close so that is good to see. May I ask about the driveshaft and the need for a custom one versus the OEM unit? I am assuming weight and rotation or something like that?
Old 08-01-14, 05:14 AM
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may i ask... what is the benefit of the dual master manual brake booster. Googled it and couldnt find an answer to it
Old 08-01-14, 06:08 AM
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I like the progress....I go away for a couple of days and all kinds of progress is made..NICE!!!! When do you think you will have her on the road? I bet your looking forward to it. Btw still waiting on pics of the dry sump ahhahahahahahaah
Old 08-01-14, 06:12 AM
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Originally Posted by David Hayes
Looking good Lenny. You are really close so that is good to see. May I ask about the driveshaft and the need for a custom one versus the OEM unit? I am assuming weight and rotation or something like that?
His motor is moved back, the stock driveshaft is too long.
Old 08-01-14, 07:56 AM
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Nice progress Len!!
Old 08-01-14, 12:05 PM
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Originally Posted by Rxmfn7
But nope, driveshaft place put the wrong flange on.. so have to wait a few more days for a new one. Oh well, but every little thing is a kick in the nuts.

More to follow

It's funny that you and I both had driveshaft problems. I personally took a mock up shaft to my local drivetrain shop and told them to build me a new shaft exactly this length. What I got back was something 5" longer???? I was like WTF!!!! Guy tells me that I needed to leave room for suspension travel. I should have known as they work mainly on trucks. I was like " I have and independant rear suspension and my diff doesn't move". He was like ???????? So I go home and bring a pic of the fd's bare suspension components to show him how my ppf works. His eyes got really big when he saw how the fd was setup.
Old 08-01-14, 12:14 PM
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TX

Originally Posted by t-von
it's funny that you and i both had driveshaft problems. I personally took a mock up shaft to my local drivetrain shop and told them to build me a new shaft exactly this length. What i got back was something 5" longer???? I was like wtf!!!! Guy tells me that i needed to leave room for suspension travel. I should have known as they work mainly on trucks. I was like " i have and independant rear suspension and my diff doesn't move". He was like ???????? So i go home and bring a pic of the fd's bare suspension components to show him how my ppf works. His eyes got really big when he saw how the fd was setup.
o.o
Old 08-01-14, 12:20 PM
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Originally Posted by AFsmurf
good choice on filter! lol
Not sure if its a jab or not, but I think the Wix line of race filters are pretty good. Here is some info from them, and they are sold by summit,jegs, etc and are used on some serious race machines:

The WIX line of racing oil filters features a heavy duty can and cover which provides up to 500 psi burst pressure protection for high performance racing engines. You won't collapse this filter as it features a Steel Fully Perforated Spiral Center Tube that has the highest collapse strength in the industry. Filter flow rates from 28 to 30 GPM provides plenty of flow for wide bearing clearances found in racing engines. Not intended for use in street vehicles
The "not intended for street vehicles" comes from the fact they sacrifice a tiny bit of filtration media for increased flow. According to a customer rep from Wix as long as fluid is changed regularly (which should be a given especially on a rotary) it isnt an issue for a street car, but they need that annotation just for the fact alot of normal people let oil/filter changes go.

Originally Posted by David Hayes
Looking good Lenny. You are really close so that is good to see. May I ask about the driveshaft and the need for a custom one versus the OEM unit? I am assuming weight and rotation or something like that?
Thanks again David. As RenisisFD stated above, its just because I cannot use the OEM driveshaft. Not only is the engine moved, but Im using a T5 trans and an 8.8 differential.

Originally Posted by AFsmurf
may i ask... what is the benefit of the dual master manual brake booster. Googled it and couldnt find an answer to it
When I removed the ABS, I also removed the vacuum assisted power brake booster. Without this on the stock pedal, you would have to exert a tremedous amount of force to use the brakes. To remedy this you need to go with a different pedal setup with a lever ratio suited for manual brake operation. The point of the dual masters is to be able to better finely tune the F-R brake bias. You can leverage the ratio between the 2 masters with a balance bar setup and be able to adjust braking performance to your liking. With all this being said, I am by no means an expert at race car braking systems. Im sure I know just enough to be dangerous and possibly spread a bit of misinformation. This is my first crack at it, and Im doing it with research Ive done as well as help from Logan and his experience setting up manual brakes in his personal 4 rotor FD.

Originally Posted by papsmagu
I like the progress....I go away for a couple of days and all kinds of progress is made..NICE!!!! When do you think you will have her on the road? I bet your looking forward to it. Btw still waiting on pics of the dry sump ahhahahahahahaah
Should have some completed pictures to show very soon. While simple in theory the process of getting everything to fit perfectly has taken a bit of time. Lots of small bits and pieces, and its just now nearing completion. A part of this system is also what will be holding up me getting it back for at least a couple weeks. We had thought the drysump tank was an off the shelf item and could just be ordered when needed, but as it turns out its a made to order tank. So, they said tank would be ~4 weeks or so out ( this was a bit over a week ago), so That will most likely be the part we are waiting on before its all complete. In the meantime Logan has a temporary tank we can use for startup and stuff like that, but for break-in and final tune we'll need my tank.
Old 08-01-14, 12:27 PM
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Originally Posted by Rxmfn7
Djseven,
) I hope to have some dyno numbers soon as I know that's been a big point of controversy, and you have been one eagerly wanting to see.

I wish you the best and I know what to expect from it. The controversy was more about the attitudes/presumptions held by your peers than the actual swap. 300RWHP is always fun in a 2700lb car no matter how you get there.
Old 08-01-14, 12:39 PM
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Exactly. I just want a fun car that sounds amazing. As they say , theres more than one way to skin a cat. I just decided to take the extremely long, complicated and expensive way . But with cars, as anything in life I believe in do what makes you happy.. even if thats not the most sensible thing.

Originally Posted by djseven
I wish you the best and I know what to expect from it. The controversy was more about the attitudes/presumptions held by your peers than the actual swap. 300RWHP is always fun in a 2700lb car no matter how you get there.
Old 08-01-14, 01:09 PM
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i personally skinned the cat by putting an EFR turbo on my 2-rotor, but i'd LOVE to have an NA 20b. i've added it up a few times, and i end up going for a drive in the FD to hear that borg warner whistle sound, which soothes my desires for a while.

i'm ready for some in-car video of that sweet sweet 20b singing at 8k

are you going to be tracking this thing?
Old 08-01-14, 01:24 PM
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Originally Posted by jacobcartmill

are you going to be tracking this thing?
Absolutely
Old 08-02-14, 12:26 AM
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Some more updates. Things are really staring to chug along, which to be honest feels like a nice change from such a long time of problems and delays. So first off, driveshaft issue was fixed sooner than expected. So that's in, and with that the drive-line is complete! Shifter (pro 5.0) mounted to trans, fits like a glove and in perfect position.






Also fuel pump mounting and fuel cell setup is about 99% complete. The heatshielding around the cell was necessary because the exhaust is going to wrap around and exit drivers side of car. But it came out great as well.



Attached Thumbnails 94 R2 N/A 3 Rotor Build-driveshaft1.jpg   94 R2 N/A 3 Rotor Build-shifterplacement1.jpg   94 R2 N/A 3 Rotor Build-shifterplacement2.jpg   94 R2 N/A 3 Rotor Build-fuel-setup1.jpg   94 R2 N/A 3 Rotor Build-fuelcellcomplete1.jpg  

94 R2 N/A 3 Rotor Build-fuelcellcomplete2.jpg  
Old 08-02-14, 12:30 AM
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Drysump plumbing is getting completed. Here you can see the 2 scavenge lines. If you look close in the second picture ( I know a bit hard to see) you will notice the line is coming though the leg of the rotor housing. Logan drilled and welded a fitting there to get to the oil pan area from that side. Pretty slick. The one coming from the bottom looks a bit lower than it probably actually is, but there will be a solid skid plate built to protect from any "incidents"




So since then trans/diff fluids have been filled. Most of drysump mounting is complete. Battery has been placed and starter wire ran. Exhaust installed. More pics tomorrow
Attached Thumbnails 94 R2 N/A 3 Rotor Build-drysumpscavenge1.jpg   94 R2 N/A 3 Rotor Build-drysumpscavenge2.jpg  
Old 08-02-14, 11:00 AM
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I like the 20b all motor setup. Great to see a non turbo setup for a change. will sound great. Good job.
Old 08-02-14, 12:24 PM
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what's with the ball things? floats for fuel level? how does that work?
very interesting.


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