borisf

I figured it was about time I started one of these build threads for the RX-7.

First things first... little history on the car:

Bought the car off of a member from here. He posted it up on Mothers day, and about 20 minutes after, I had sent him a deposit. The description was that it was a VR Red 1993, with a 45R, supporting mods, and red underneath the Blue Mica Vinyl Wrap.

Mind you, I had been looking for a VR/Tan Interior for a very long time, and this one popped up. The interior used to be tan, however the previous owner swapped the carpets and dyed the seats so just the piping remained tan, and the rest of the seat was black. Not my ideal combination, however interesting none the less.

Will start to fill up the posts in here with things that I've done to this car so far. Nothing has come easy so far!

Heres a picture of it the first night as I got it back to my friends shop. The car its parked to, while unassuming, is a 2008 WRX with an LQ4 swap out with a t56.

borisf

The Current Mod-list on the car as it sits. Anything in Bold is what I've added since Owning the car:


Engine:

- Eccentric Performance Assembled Engine/ Street Ported
- GT45R (y2004k)
- Greddy FMIC Core/Piping
- Apexi Power FC
- HKS Twin Power
- Greddy Compression Elbow
- Relocated Coils / Newer Coils
- Sakebomb/MSD Spark Plug Wires
- HKS 60mm External Wastegate
- HKS SSSQV Black Edition BOV
- Custom Exhaust Manifold
- HKS Carbon Ti Exhaust
- Custom Non Resonated Midpipe
- 1000cc Primary Injectors
- 800 cc Secondary
- Greddy Profec Boost Controller
- Wiring Specialties Grounding Kit
- Petit Racing Starter Booster
- Koyo Radiator + Mishimoto Hoses
- Greddy Pulley Kit


Suspension:

- Brand New KYB Struts
- Tanabe Springs
- OEM Front Strut Tower Brace
- OEM Rear Strut Tower Brace

Transmission/Drivetrain:

- ACT ZX6-XTSS ( I assume). Previous Owner said it was a "stage 4", whatever the hell that is.
- Short Shifter (dont know what brand yet)
- Poly Shifter bushings (although one is not replaced... weird)
- Poly Differential Bushings


Wheels/Tires:
- Oem Wheels painted Semi-Gloss Black
- BBS Lug Nuts
- BFGoodrich SportComp 2

Body:

- Replica R1 Lip (One Piece)
- 99 Spec Rear Taillights
- Shine Carbon Ducts
- Shine Exhaust Shield
- Hot Water Labs Headlight Kit

Interior:

- NRG Black Suede+Red Stitching Steering Wheel
- NRG Wheel Hub (Quick Release)
- AEM Boost Gauge
- AEM UEGO Wideband Gauge
- Flocked Center Console
- Custom Plate for Gauges
- Carbon Fiber trim overlay
- ARC Shift ****
- OEM Tan Seats dyed black (minus piping).



Vendors to thank so far:

Rotary Performance
Mazdatrix
Sakebomb Garage
Atkins Rotary
Pettit Racing

borisf

Plans for the Engine:

First things first, heres a pic of the engine bay after I was taking forever getting it go go:



As you can see, the previous owner spraycanned the engine bay black (didn't do such a great job), so that is on the list of things to re-do whilst its hung up over the winter.

Notes from the previous Owner:

- Eccentric Performance assembled engine with a streetport. (Revs out to 9500RPM)
- OMP Deleted (Run Idemitsu Premix)
- 3500 miles on Engine since assembly.


The premix ratio listed on the bottle and what the previous owner told me he was running differs, however I was reading some threads and watching some videos that confirm what the previous owner was saying. He had advised 1 oz per gallon of fuel. Thats what I've been running. The Idemitsu bottle says half of that for 1 gallon of fuel.

I've been running that successfully. Want to read more on the mixture ratios, however for now , if it aint broke, dont fix it.

I have come from the Subaru and BMW world, so the rotary is completely new to me, so I've been learning as much as I can, albeit with some stupid threads that I have made, however I'm almost starting to get the hang of it.

- Printed out the 900 Page 1993 Service Manual
- All of the helpful Links from the Forums
- Went to all the various build sites and printed out all FAQ's / Installations

One thing that I do want to get rid of immediately is the GT45R thats on the car. Its a y2004k ebay turbo, from the research that I have done. While it is a properly working turbo, it is BEYOND laggy and although how it responds is fine with the way the rotary's wind out, I would prefer something that's better built with a billet wheel that isnt dead in the water till 5k...

I have seen some threads off other forums of guys running these turbos and having good results, and the internals are suprisingly OK, but I'm going to have this car for a while, so I want a turbo that is made well with all of the best internal upgrades/components possible, for this high revving engine that we have in these cars.

There are plenty of kits out there, and surprisingly, the one that I was looking that looks pretty great is the Full Race Kit. Of course there will be additional modifications that need to be done, but for the time being, thats a goal that i'm looking towards for the Turbo/Manifold.

With getting rid of the turbo for a better flowing/responsive unit, I also am going to be looking at modifying the intercooler piping and intercooler for the shortest piping possible.If that will involve clocking the turbo so its a straight shot down to the core, then so be it.

Also Heat Management is on my list of things to do as well. I would like to coat as much as possible on the exhaust side, and use the DEI Gold Reflective tape on the intake pieces. I had great results on my 2005 STi with the DEI Reflecta-Gold and that engine generated less than half of the heat that the 13b generates. As i will be removing a lot of components off the car over the winter, this is something that will be addressed and done in order to maximize efficiency of the air being cooled through the intercooler.

borisf

The suspension on the car as I was told by the previous Owner is new.
Judging by how it looks, he is absolutely correct. The KYB Struts have no wear, no grime, nothing, and the Tanabe springs look relatively fresh as well.

While the Strut/Spring combo is nice for ride quality (relative), I am not please as to how it rides 100% nor am I pleased with the aesthetics and non adjustability of the setup.

This leaves the fact that to settle my qualms, I would need to purchase a set of coilovers. The problem that i think inhibits the aftermarket industry is that anything sub 1k for coilovers, is only good for height adjustment, as the ride quality is severely compromised. Anything BC, ISC, Fortune, etc. are all great for a more inexpensive way of lowering the car (2nd to just buying lowering springs), however I would rather my back not be punished by every indent in the road.

Over the winter, I will be looking at different coilovers, the right spring rates for the car and overall the right set up I need for the purpose of the car.

Below is a picture of how the car sits on the KYB OEM Replacements with the Tanabe Springs.

borisf

Like many FD Rx7's, mine is plagued with the 5th gear grind.

The only way It can go into 5th every time without grinding is to double clutch, which is annoying, however I don't want to cause further damage to the transmission/synchro's.

Something that needs to be done over winter is to replace the fluids in both the transmission and the rear differential, with something that is easier on the transmission. If I have to replace the fluid more often, then so be it.

The Clutch in the car was labelled to me as a stage 4 ACT, however Stage 4 doesnt really exist, and its certainly not a puck clutch from what I saw in the inspection holes. Simply put, the clutch is awful to drive with. Its grabby, but the driveability is awful. One of the things that I will be looking into, is getting a replacement that isnt so harsh for driving around. I get that its a bold move to try to find a clutch that can hold all of the torque (), and be friendly to drive around, but I can do plenty of research for that over winter.

One of the things I also need to be familiar with is the pull type clutch in this car and the separation from the engine/trans

I will probably be using this as a guide :
Rotary Resurrection home of the budget rebuild.

The Short shifter in the car (as described by previous owner) is a B&M Style, whatever that means. I will be taking that apart because I want to purchase the RE-Amemiya Short Shifter. Also, the previous owner had advised that there are poly bushings, which I can feel, however there is something missing/or not changed at all as there is considerable forward/backward slack where there shouldn't be.

borisf

Plans for the wheels and tires are simple.

I do like the lightness of the OEM wheels So I will retain the rears with a chunky tire (most likely a mickey thompson street radial) to go to the drag strip or to drive around lightly and be able to use 1-3rd gear.

For aftermarket wheels, one of my favorite wheels is the Enkei RPF-1, however I would like to go with period correct looking wheels for this car. I have been looking at several different types of wheels, but this might be purchased in conjuction with the coilovers. This is going to be something that's going to be changing a lot until i bite the bullet on a set of wheels.

For tires, I have seen OK results with the BFGoodrich SportComp2, but I would like something that doesnt need to be warm in order to be usable at all.

borisf

When I had purchased the car, the body of the car was wrapped in 3m Blue Mica. I was assured by the previous owner that the red underneath the vinyl was "mint", and upon getting some preview cuts in the vinyl, it looked promising.

Initally as the peeling process started, the body looked good. It would be foolish to wrap the car after it was "freshly repainted", so I gave the owner the benefit of the doubt.

What a mistake that was. Below are some pics from the peeling process.






Although the Paint underneath is shiny, it is nowhere near done correctly. There are some runs, there are some chips, there are some ill-prepped area's that really need some ironing out, and unfortunately, as a whole, it wouldn't make sense to do spot treatment of some areas, as it would need to be blended.

Although the car looks incredibly better red, I am still a bit peeved at the paint condition, especially on the front bumper, as the paint is literally flaking off as there appears to have been zero preparation work done on the front bumper. The bumper looks to be white underneath, not primer, just white. So maybe they scuffed the bumper up and then painted, then cleared, but whatever they did, it was done very poorly.

You can see from the image below, all of the white spots on the bumper that are missing paint from being ripped off from the vinyl.



When we were taking off the vinyl off the car, we had used a heat gun and only started peeling once the vinyl itself because very pliable (for those who have done so, you know exactly what I'm talking about). Unfortunately, with the time proximity of when the painting to vinyl was done, it appears they the plan was F*cked since Jump Street to peel off the vinyl. All in all, there are worse things and the car from 10ft looks fantastic. Not my goal, however I cannot complain as if the paint was original, it would look far worse than it does now (paint/clear coat fade).

The car has the HWL headlight kit, which is great as the LED lighting is fantastic, however the covers are unpainted and it looks as my friends have coined it, like Deadpool .




Issues with the Body otherwise:

There is a hole on the passenger side of the hood, from where the hood was slammed down and the t-bolt clam wasn't rotated down so the bolt went right through the aluminum hood. I have covered it with a huge decal to support my good friends shop, however it is absolutely in my future to get a new hood with better cooling/venting.


There are also holes from this horrible wing that was on the car. The Previous Owner had a Panspeed wind on the car that covered the holes, however when I bought the car it was wingless (with the holes taped up) and he had given me a spoiler to go with it, to which I had been trying to determine what the hell it was. I have referenced it with the below thread:

https://www.rx7club.com/3rd-gen-gene...lease-1104306/

My plan is full stop to do a small lip wing coming off the taillights and a 99 spec wing in conjuction. The wing looks perfect on the car, and the mind is made up for that. Now I am just hunting for the good deal on an OEM or go with the VIS 99 spec replica, it all depends on the availability of the OEM.


Further down the road, the Rocket Bunny Kit looks to be enticing, however only the flares and the rear diffuser. I don't like the front end and I dont like the ducktail. This would in essence be something different than what I've seen, so maybe I can have a friend photoshop to see how it would look.

Here are some pics from the last "photoshoot" I did just with some cell phone cameras as it was an unusually warm night out.

borisf

The Interior plans I figure is the same for all RX-7 Owners!!

Preserve the OEM Plastics!!!!!!

Mine have seen some better days, and in all reality, thats a top priority for me to maintain them and to keep some Originality with the interior.

Below is what the Interior looks like now. Excuse some of the missing panels (Steering Column Covers, Glovebox) as I am working on them.





The NRG Wheel + Quickrelease hub are great, however I am not sure if it was put on incorrecetly from the previous owner, as I cannot center the wheel right without it being cocked a couple of degree's either way.

The center console is flocked (suede like material with small fibers + glue). Something that I want to do to the rest of the dashboard.

The Interior pieces that I have that are mangled are basically all of it. I am not sure who was in charge of taking apart the dash earlier, but there is nothing that isn't broken. Its very frustrating when taking these things apart and seeing already destroyed clips or missing trim pieces. my Gauge Cluster/Hood has a huge crack in it, wont clip into the dash. However I have a great idea on how to limit the rattle with the existing pieces until I can find a crashed RX7 with an interior still in it. That is going to be done for a future post.

borisf

Update from 11/5 : Driveshaft Failure!!!!

On this saturday, I was driving on 95N in CT about to be in Rhode Island and I decided to give it some throttle as no one was around me and I put my foot on the throttle in 3rd then shifting into 4th at around 6k and all of a sudden, a Loud BANG, a whole lot of grinding and vibration!!

I shifted into neutral after I could and pulled over on the side of the highway. At first I was freaking out a bit, but afterwards, the most important part was that me and my wife were safe and no injuries. The car/parts could be fixed.

Onto the damage, initially I thought transmission was donezo. Then I turned the car back on, and it worked, and I put it into first gear, let the clutch out, and it didn't stall. started shifting through the gears, and it was fine. so the speedometer started moving around in 3-5th gears.

Something wasnt engaging, and realistically, the last thing I thought of was that it was the driveshaft.

Called AAA and got a Tow back to the garage 78 miles away. Below are some pics from the experience.

In the last pic, you can see the driveshaft hanging on by a thread!










When I got it towed back to the garage, as we were pushing it into its spot, the driveshaft completely just came off. I havent gotten a chance to look at it yet, however from when I was moving the driveshaft, it is all banged up and both sides look like they are missing some hardware.

I will look deeper into this over the next week, but man, what a scenario.

I have searched on here and I am NOT the first person that this has happened to surprisingly.

Will keep posted with the further installments on this issue.


Just searched the previous owners threads on here, and apparently, this has happened before.
JUST GREAT!
https://www.rx7club.com/3rd-generati...-help-1082592/

borisf

Ignition Overhaul:

I figured I'd make a post in here for reference as well, however my troubles/woes can be found in my thread i started below:

https://www.rx7club.com/3rd-generati...iring-1104731/


The car was having a lot of trouble starting up and it was making me very frustrated as it only seemed like the car was firing up on the trailing plugs. Once it was going, it would run terribly, blow flames out the exhaust and die. The previous owner had "relocated" the coils to basically behind the power steering pump, but I wasn't having that, hung up by zipties.

I had replaced/added the following parts for the ignition system:

- HKS Twin Power + RX7 Specific Harness
- NEW Sparkplug's (NGK OEM 9's for both Leading and Trailing)
- Newer Ignition Coils off a 95 RX7
- Brand New Sakebomb Garage/MSD Super Conductor Wires Custom Length
- Custom Ignition Coil Relocation Bracket (for Driverside Strut Tower location /custom by impactwrench)
- Brand new Ignition Coil Harness (P/N : N3A3-18-05Z)
- Brand new Crank Angle Sensors!
- Petit Racing Starter Booster (RX7 Starter Booster )

After Purchasing all of the above, I went to go look for missing grounds on the car, and well the previous owner had left some that needed to be grounded, off. Not quite sure how the car was running stable before, however it needed a good amount of grounding done. In addition, the garage had a spare wiring specialties grounding kit that surprisingly fits the FD very well with points. Am not sure if it actually helps or not, however It can't hurt.

The Crank Angle Wheel I had sanded in order to make sure there is good contact with the new crank angle sensors and what a difference it made.

The HKS Twin power with the Harness are placed up by the Master Cylinder, but will be relocated soon.

The Custom Length SBG/MSD wires pinned for OEM coils and Custom Bracket sit nice in the open area where the FC's have their coils. Not sure why Mazda ditched that location for the FD, however it works much better where it is now.

Below are some of the pictures from the job.

Now everything fires well, it still takes a bit for it maintain an idle, however I am attributing that to a TUNE issue, which will be sorted. I realize that it also could be as a result of running 9's for trailing as well for the Spark Plugs. Something that I can diagnose as time goes on.






As you can see, the SBG wires look fantastic. They are labelled correctly so there is no real reason. I highly would recommend them to anyone that is looking to get some new plug wires with some cash to spend. I realize that the OEM NGK's are a nice inexpensive alternative if you have the OEM Coils in the OEM location, however the coils should be moved as heat will kill these OEM ignition coils.

The Spark Plug bracket was sent to me by a member who has since gotten rid of his car, Mr. Dave Pomeroy, who's a legend. (username impactwrench)

This is one step done with chasing these issues.

In the future, depending on how it goes with the engine/turbo configurations, i'd like to switch to Smart Coils and delete the need for an Igniter, but for now, it appears the OEM/TWIN POWER combo will do fine for now.

tIIsleeper

Yay for build threads!

borisf

Update to the Driveshaft Post: (Link _ https://www.rx7club.com/build-thread.../#post12122340)

I finally got around to putting the car up in the air, and was crossing my fingers that It wasn't worse than What I had imagined it to be.

Firstly, it appears that my Oil Pan is leaking, and upon closer inspection, there is a couple bolts missing that hold down the pan to the block. Why they are missing, I have no clue, but the seepage is coming from there. So in the pics, you'll see there is a healthy amount of oil on the undercarriage.

This will be remedied by a Banzai Racing Oil Pan Brace. I bought the Sake Bomb Stud Kit for the Oil Pan, however I dont think i'll be using it as the Banzai Brace comes with all of its own hardware.

The Driveshaft from what I can see, flexed to the point where it let go on the Transmission side and then on the diff side. This is very strange. The Previous Owner had given me a spare driveshaft, and upon further inspection into the thread history, it appears as though this isnt the first time that this has happened.

Combing through some of the threads, it appears as though that these driveshafts arent really a serviceable item if they fail at the joints, so I have to get a new one. The Spare One that I have looks like ***, so, best to just get something new. Below are the pics.

Driveshaft That Popped off:








Spare Driveshaft (Not painted SPEED RED)







Now for the underneath pictures:



(Check that scrape against the transmission from the Driveshaft)






Where do I go from here. Firstly, I want to make sure that there is no more additional damage to the differential or to the transmission. Granted it's not much of a test, but when all of this happened, I did start the car up and was able to get it in and out of gear. With the driveshaft not connected, I was able to get the car into gear and out of gear without any throttle manipulation (obviously) and the speedometer was starting to twitch in 3-5th gear. Hopefully, that means that really the brunt of any damage was done to the driveshaft and I can remove the joints from the trans/diff sides and swap in a new driveshaft.

Will keep this one going as I am very intrigued as to this failure. Any thoughts/suggestions are welcome!

borisf

$10 Turbo Screen Project:

Just wanted to share something that I had done to my GT45. The previous owner was running a Spectre Filter on the turbo, and apart from being crap, it looked horrible as well.

I wanted to run a mesh screen for it, however, with some of these companies that are selling the screen's, they want an exuberant amount of money.

Bought a roll of Window Screen from Lowes. With a Worm Drive clamp that would fit the opening of the turbo, I traced the hold into the mesh then cut out a square shape. Then duplicated it . By having 2 layers and having them be diagonally placed, I was able to get good protection from debris getting into the Turbo. One of the days I was out for a couple hours, I came back and opened the hood and there were little bugs stuck to the mesh. So if it can limit little nats from going in, I feel pretty good about it.

Pic below (Excuse the Haggard Coolant Hoses. Thats also something that I need to address as I have no clue where the logic was in routing it like that.

borisf

So I haven't really touched this car in a couple weeks, part of it because I'm terrified to see if there was any damage to the trans output and part of it because its been so damn cold (even though the car is in a garage).

I had downloaded a checklist app on my Ipad and started going over everything the car needs over the next few months for me to be happy with the progress over the winter. I forget the name of the app, but you can create different lists (I did for each aspect of the car) and check it off once you are done with any sub notes (cost, parts, etc). Needless to say, its quite a bit of stuff. However, nothing in life comes easy, especially RX-7 ownership.

I had just gotten married and we went on a great honeymoon, so the funds have been incredibly tight. The next obvious step is looking into a house, however I am adamant on keeping the FD throughout this process, even though it will lessen the burden of the downpayment. Been a lot of exciting things that have been happening, and I'm extra psyched that I was able to drive the RX7 for a few months before its driveshaft ended up taking a huge dump.

In any case, over the next couple of weeks, I'll be getting back into the swing of things. I had purchased a new gauge face, with not very many broken tabs at all, and screw holes still intact and not shattered. I also got a bunch of little odds and ends that will make the car a little bit more modernized.

Last time I was underneath the car, I had noticed that the starter wire that the Previous Owner had disconnected in favor of a push button start looks like complete crap, so I may keep the push button start out of convenience for now. That along with some extra wiring that doesn't have any place in the car anymore should be fun to get out.

Ultimately, I will also be looking for OLED Commanders. My car didnt come with one, I assume the PO sold it when he was selling the car (amongst many other necessary things). Also, will look to have the tune cleaned up. I think the cold start can be greatly improved. I adjusted the idle to be bit higher just to keep it running on a cold start, so hopefully there is something we can do with the fuel map.

Other than that, Happy New Year. 2016 has kicked my *** pretty good, so hopefully 2017 is much more kind.

B

ZoomZoom

iTrader: (2)

I can't imagine why there would be any damage to any other components if the u joints failed. It's one of those weak link situations. The danger is that the Driveshaft were to fail at the back of the trans verses at the Diff it could potentially act as a Pole Vault and launch the car into the air. It's why cars at the track that make considerable power and run fast times are mandated by NHRA rules to have a Driveshaft loop. A Driveshaft loop that will catch a Driveshaft before it hits the ground in a situation where a failure occurs.

That's a huge turbo. I can't image why anyone would run that on a 2 rotor unless they want to impress their friends at the BBQ.
For a drag car maybe... for a street car? I wouldn't go larger than a GT40R. Preferably even smaller. That turbo isn't likely being run anywhere near its efficiency range and the car is probably a dog for everything besides 4500rpm+.

borisf

Oh it's a massive dog. I can't understand why the previous owner put it on but such is the way when buying other people's used projects. It is on the list of things that I will be replacing with something more modern (ball bearing) and much more useable on the street.

borisf

I have purchased a set of popup headlights for the car off the forums. They require some new covers but thats perfectly acceptable.

With that in mind, I will be taking off the HWL headlights and putting them up for sale.

borisf

Yesterday I had a good chance to look back on the FD again and start to create a gameplan to get it back on the road. Unfortunately with some of the oil leaks, and the fact that my harness is on its 9th life, Me and a friend will be pulling the engine out.

Replacing the Harness, and going to fix all of the leaks and freshen it up. It will be a bit longer to get it going again, however, the time/money spent now will be for the long run, as all of the new harnesses that you can get (aftermarket) are loads better than my factory 24 year old harness.

borisf

What in the hell happened to all the pictures on Photobucket? They want everyone to pay for Hosting now? Insane, looks like I'll have to upload to the site.

Anyways, so the engine and transmission are out.

I will be using the pineapple racing engine stand adaptor, which is a nice heavy duty piece, however i am missing one cricital piece of hardware so I hope to get that form them in the next 4 or so days (great customer service from Rob at Pineapple).

I am glad we were able to take the engine out with the transmission, as I want to really refresh the way everything operates and looks.

The Transmission has some oil buildup in the bell housing, which is a bit odd. Hopefully the rear main isnt leaking and this could just be residual oil leaking out of wherever and getting to the bell housing. I definiantely see where some oil was coming out from the oil pan (also doesnt help that the previous owner didnt secure all of the bolts in.

Over the next few weeks/months will be a bit hectic (as my wife is due in early September) but going to be start ordering small odds and ends and followed by the big purchases (new wire harness from LMS, V-Mount, etc).

Also, as my car has had its ABS disable (by previous owner), I will be removing the actual ABS unit and using the delete kit from Rotary Shack. Seems like customer service feedback on the forums has been abysmal, however I got into contact with the Owner and it seems to be better now.

DaleClark

iTrader: (55)

FYI that is not a stock driveshaft on the car, it's some sort of odd aftermarket one. Get a good stock one, they should be a dime a dozen and you'll be fine.

I would pull the power plant frame and inspect that carefully as well for cracks or any damage from that driveshaft.

Stock driveshafts damn near last forever, they really do well. The FD isn't that hard on them since the diff and trans are solidly bolted together, there is very little flex in the driveshaft U-joints so it isn't stressed as much as some cars.

Dale

borisf

Thanks Dale.

After pulling the engine, I did inspect the PPF, and it looks fine, however I will probably take another 50 looks before everything goes back in.

The places that got banged around by the Driveshaft are the heatshield under the car, part of the trans(as you can see from the pics) but surprisingly I didn't see anything on the PPF.

I was thinking of just going with a factory Driveshaft when I'm putting everything back together. I really just don't want to ever run into a similar issue that I did with this driveshaft ever again.

DaleClark

iTrader: (55)

That aftermarket driveshaft had grease zerks in the U-joints, that big time weakens the U-joints.

Seriously, in all my years, I have NEVER heard of a stock driveshaft going out, EVER. Never heard of bad U-joints. Previous owner probably thought he needed to upgrade the driveshaft for 800hp or whatever. Just get a stocker and go, you'll be fine.

If you are planning on making huge power you'll probably run into other problem areas first, like the stock rear end.

Dale