93 MB Resurrection
02-10-17, 07:20 AM
#26
I know jack about haltechs, but every one of my no start situations always had something to do with the crank sensors.
If your haltech is seeing RPM, but not getting spark, double check your coils and wiring/grounding and however the ls1 coils are set up on the haltech.
If your haltech is seeing RPM, but not getting spark, double check your coils and wiring/grounding and however the ls1 coils are set up on the haltech.
Last night I grounded the coils strait to the battery to ensure i had good connectivity and check the ECU plugs to ensure the wires didn't get depinned or something stupid like thatand no dice. Next up will be continuity test. and if that doesn't work i might just order a rywire harness, pfc, twin power and go from there.
02-10-17, 10:03 AM
#27
I know jack about haltechs, but every one of my no start situations always had something to do with the crank sensors.
If your haltech is seeing RPM, but not getting spark, double check your coils and wiring/grounding and however the ls1 coils are set up on the haltech.
If your haltech is seeing RPM, but not getting spark, double check your coils and wiring/grounding and however the ls1 coils are set up on the haltech.
yeah that's what's strange. the ignition wiring hasnt changed.
the trigger wiring is correct, the trigger counter, home counter, and triggers since last home all appear correct (i was only watching via facetime and a poor connection) and there is an RPM signal on the haltech during cranking (~200rpm), so the trigger appears to be all good.
i also checked all the ignition settings vs the map i used on my old FD that setup came out of (and we also tried importing the map settings my old map).
this is not my first rodeo with haltech, to say the least, and i've never seen this issue. it's always a trigger issue (like you said).
one thing we did that may have affected it is updated the firmware before initial startup attempt. that could have done something strange, so we can revert to a different firmware and try that as well. it's just a strange issue.
johnny is going to check continuity to make sure nothing strange happened with the wires, and maybe swap out an LS1 coil or two (i can't imagine all 4 coils are dead, but whatever). he's resourceful, and he has plenty of options and parts he can swap out, so it will be fine.
Last edited by jacobcartmill; 02-10-17 at 10:06 AM.
02-10-17, 10:55 AM
#28
The GT61 is a plain bearing GT35 hybrid. It is a P trim based turbo built in the USA out of all genuine Garrett parts, making it easy to rebuild if ever needed. It outflows a standard GT3582 while giving up minimal spool. Best of all this turbo sells for $950, which is a significant cost savings over a GT35R. It is intended for an easy 350-400whp around 1 bar (depending on porting, tune, and other factors) on pump gas with excellent spool for a journal bearing turbo. It can make 500whp at higher boost. I intended the kit to be an affordable solution for those who wanted to ditch the twins, wanted a moderate hp increase, and retain excellent response for autocross or track events.
A Borg Warner S360 is outdated, and spools significantly slower and best suited for higher hp goals.
The S362SXE is a great turbo but also larger and I don't recommend it for a sub 450hp goal. It is essentially a EFR 8374 but without the internal wastegate and stainless housing. It also has the billet wheel which is less efficient under 20lbs than a cast wheel.
The kit can be recirculated, but for best power and flow I recommend an open dump.
The kit can be purchased here:
IRP GT61 Single Turbo Kit | IRPerformance
A Borg Warner S360 is outdated, and spools significantly slower and best suited for higher hp goals.
The S362SXE is a great turbo but also larger and I don't recommend it for a sub 450hp goal. It is essentially a EFR 8374 but without the internal wastegate and stainless housing. It also has the billet wheel which is less efficient under 20lbs than a cast wheel.
The kit can be recirculated, but for best power and flow I recommend an open dump.
The kit can be purchased here:
IRP GT61 Single Turbo Kit | IRPerformance
Last edited by IRPerformance; 02-10-17 at 02:21 PM.
02-13-17, 11:04 AM
#29
She starts and idles…
Jacob came over on Saturday and we did some troubleshooting.
Started off by checking the connectors, followed by continuity testing. Found that 6 out of 7 wires had continuity. One of the wires didn’t have a ground on it like it should so we ground it to the chassis. Tried to start the car and boom just like that we have spark.
I have to leave for a dinner date but Jacob and another local friend stayed on worked on the car and found that I left a ground off. Once grounded it fixed my spark issue.
However the car wouldn’t stay running and starter started to act up so they called it a night.
The next day, I noticed that my jumper wire for the clutch safety switch got disconnected. I re connected it and checked fuel pressure. It was a little low so I bumped it 40 psi. Started it and now it idles.
Next up
• Install WG dump tube
• Install exhaust
• Replace oil feed washer on block with washer that has an o ring
• Fix coolant leak from heater line at firewall
• Make cold air intake
I think Jacob wants to make a few tweaks to the map to prepare for the tuning session on 2/24.
We gonna be cutting it close.
Jacob came over on Saturday and we did some troubleshooting.
Started off by checking the connectors, followed by continuity testing. Found that 6 out of 7 wires had continuity. One of the wires didn’t have a ground on it like it should so we ground it to the chassis. Tried to start the car and boom just like that we have spark.
I have to leave for a dinner date but Jacob and another local friend stayed on worked on the car and found that I left a ground off. Once grounded it fixed my spark issue.
However the car wouldn’t stay running and starter started to act up so they called it a night.
The next day, I noticed that my jumper wire for the clutch safety switch got disconnected. I re connected it and checked fuel pressure. It was a little low so I bumped it 40 psi. Started it and now it idles.
Next up
• Install WG dump tube
• Install exhaust
• Replace oil feed washer on block with washer that has an o ring
• Fix coolant leak from heater line at firewall
• Make cold air intake
I think Jacob wants to make a few tweaks to the map to prepare for the tuning session on 2/24.
We gonna be cutting it close.
02-14-17, 07:40 AM
#31
Rotary Enthusiast
02-22-17, 02:22 PM
#36
Ban Peak
iTrader: (49)
Ha, yea. Many thanks to Jacob on figuring out how to make this VMIC setup. I copied his setup and only have like hour in fab work.
It looks like 87FCturboII has a similar setup and it looks like it’s working well for him at the track and you had a similar setup in your red FD.
It looks like 87FCturboII has a similar setup and it looks like it’s working well for him at the track and you had a similar setup in your red FD.
02-22-17, 03:54 PM
#38
For the rad hose. I just used a connector that i got from local autoparts store and picked through misc rad hose that i had.
guys, please paypal any cartmill-vmic royalties you feel appropriate: jacob.cartmill@gmail.com
03-17-17, 01:56 PM
#43
That single turbo CYM in Cali looks tempting to.
I would probably paint and REW swap my REPU before I got another FD.
03-20-17, 07:02 AM
#45
It has a been a long 6 months trying to get this thing up a going but well worth all the headaches.
Couldn't have done with it with the help of my father in law and friends.
Jacob fixed the fuel issues I had as it was coming onto boost and did some additional road tuning on Saturday. I just got to get some dyno tuning in with Ludwig now.
The plan is to take this car to DGRR on 4/26
Next up
- Suspension
- Wheels
- Alignment
- Install few interior pieces
Couldn't have done with it with the help of my father in law and friends.
Jacob fixed the fuel issues I had as it was coming onto boost and did some additional road tuning on Saturday. I just got to get some dyno tuning in with Ludwig now.
The plan is to take this car to DGRR on 4/26
Next up
- Suspension
- Wheels
- Alignment
- Install few interior pieces
03-20-17, 03:20 PM
#48
back to the topic though, the IRP turbo kit seems to be well made, and it seems to perform well at low boost. johnny, correct me if i'm wrong, but I call seeing full boost (10psi) come in at about 3500rpm, and it held 10psi all the way to redline.
word.
word.