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93 MB - Blown Coolant Seal

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Old 09-04-15, 06:36 AM
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93 MB - Blown Coolant Seal

Hello All,

I'd first like to start by thanking you all for your contributions to this forum. I have searched this forum on several occasions and found valuable information. I'd next like to thank those who have supported my passion for the rotary engine, specifically my Wife, Family, Friends, and local rotary community

My RX-7 history includes a 1985 Streetported GSL, 1987 Streetported T2, 1991 Pristine NA, and now a 1993 MB Touring.

This build started on 7/18/15 when I purchased and trailered the car home(3.5 hour drive).

More information and pictures to come when thread is approved!
Attached Thumbnails 93 MB - Blown Coolant Seal-loadedandready.jpg  
Old 09-05-15, 01:30 AM
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When I went to look at the car it was around a half gallon or so low on coolant. after filling up the coolant at the water pump neck and the overflow, I drove it around his house, 1 mile or so, and it pulled nicely. However, when we returned it was spewing out of the overflow and failed the champagne test terribly.

Picture Caption: "Not the favorite yet "
Attached Thumbnails 93 MB - Blown Coolant Seal-rxs.jpg  
Old 09-05-15, 01:37 AM
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Engine bay. The car is mechanically stock other than a catback exhaust.
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Old 09-05-15, 01:40 AM
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Pulled the motor last weekend! Pretty much followed the guide on Rotary Resurrection. Thanks to the guy who runs that site!
Attached Thumbnails 93 MB - Blown Coolant Seal-motorout.jpg  
Old 09-05-15, 01:44 AM
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Disassembled the engine last weekend too It's always a treat to tear down a rotary engine!
Attached Thumbnails 93 MB - Blown Coolant Seal-engine-disassembled.jpg  
Old 09-05-15, 02:00 AM
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Parts are all cleaned. I had a buddy of mine clean them with an industrial parts washer at a machine shop.
Attached Thumbnails 93 MB - Blown Coolant Seal-parts.jpg  
Old 09-05-15, 02:01 AM
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The only concern I have is that the rotors came back showing quite a bit of copper. They weren't that way before I sent them off. He said he only hot tanked them for 30 minutes.

What are your thoughts on whether these rotors are still good? I haven't measured to see if they are within spec or not yet because I need to acquire the tools to do so. All input would be appreciated.
Attached Thumbnails 93 MB - Blown Coolant Seal-rotors.jpg  
Old 09-05-15, 08:37 AM
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I would just replace the rotor bearings, is there any other reason you wouldnt want to use them?

Make sure you inspect you irons, if you had a blown coolant seal there is most likely a crack or break in the area the seal sits.
Old 10-08-15, 09:18 AM
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Originally Posted by 04G35S
I would just replace the rotor bearings, is there any other reason you wouldnt want to use them?

Make sure you inspect you irons, if you had a blown coolant seal there is most likely a crack or break in the area the seal sits.
Agreed. They are only like $150 for the set from Ray Crow if I recall.
Old 11-11-15, 02:24 PM
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Thanks for the feedback! I'll definitely be specing out the bearings in relation to the eccentric shaft. If they are out, then I'll replace them

As for my build progress, here is an update:

1) I ran a carfax and found that my car has no accident history and appears to have been pretty well taken care of

2) I created an exhaust port template and ported the exhaust ports.

3) I created an intake port template and am currently researching the design.

I think the template is fine for the Secondary ports, but I don't think it's going to work on the Primaries. According to some reputable sources, port matching the Primary ports isn't beneficial because the runners can't support the amount of flow that the advanced timing would create. I think the amount of porting I will be doing to the Secondary ports should match well with the amount of porting I did on the Exhaust ports. What do you all think so far? Any advice/input?
Attached Thumbnails 93 MB - Blown Coolant Seal-20151008_221851.jpg   93 MB - Blown Coolant Seal-20151018_191531.jpg   93 MB - Blown Coolant Seal-20151022_224412.jpg   93 MB - Blown Coolant Seal-20151109_222452.jpg   93 MB - Blown Coolant Seal-20151109_222558.jpg  

93 MB - Blown Coolant Seal-20151109_223950.jpg  
Old 11-11-15, 02:37 PM
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As for the rest of the engine build, I'm planning on using an Atkins rebuild kit with Goopy apex seals.

As for everything peripheral to the engine, I'm planning on using the stock twins in a simplified sequential configuration, full exhaust from the down pipe back, Apexi PowerFC with Datalogit, Innovate Wide Band, fast reacting IAT sensor, 550 primaries/850 secondaries converted to 1300s, some sort of upgraded fuel pump setup, OMP delete, Air pump delete, and Emissions delete.

Everything else is stock. This is just my initial list of items to get the car running. I'm only planning on building 300 HP or so with this setup until I have time/money to get more supporting modifications to go higher. Is that pretty realistic?

What do you all think? Anything else I should be considering that I'm missing?
Old 04-01-17, 11:59 PM
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Sometimes instead of sitting around thinking this stuff up someone should just read a book.

The reason the Leading spark plug is located where it is is because it is the point at which exhaust pressure stroke pressure and intake stroke pressure is the same so there is no/minimal transfer of exhaust gas into the intake stroke as the apex seal slides over the larger leading spark plug hole.





Just pick up and read a copy of Jan P Norbye's The Wankel Engine and you will know more than 99% of the population about rotary engines.

https://www.amazon.com/Wankel-engine-design-development-applications/dp/0801955912 https://www.amazon.com/Wankel-engine-design-development-applications/dp/0801955912
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