91 Vert 402.5rwhp
05-14-09, 03:29 PM
#1
91 Vert 402.5rwhp
Had a chance to dyno our shop Vert. it put down 402.5 rwhp @ 7500rpm on 1 bar of boost.
Specs
91 vert full TII conversion with 13B-RE swap
630 primaries, 1600cc secondaries
GT35R w/.84 hotside
Custom Manifold and DP
Tial 44 wastegate
HKS twin power ignition
Apexi Power FC with our adapter
Greddy Type S boost controller
More info on the car here:
http://www.banzai-racing.com/br_projects_vert_pg5.htm
402.5 rwhp w/ 296 torque
Specs
91 vert full TII conversion with 13B-RE swap
630 primaries, 1600cc secondaries
GT35R w/.84 hotside
Custom Manifold and DP
Tial 44 wastegate
HKS twin power ignition
Apexi Power FC with our adapter
Greddy Type S boost controller
More info on the car here:
http://www.banzai-racing.com/br_projects_vert_pg5.htm
402.5 rwhp w/ 296 torque
05-14-09, 06:16 PM
#5
True, however I prefer to tune on Mustang dyno's. I can now go load it up on a Dynojet for some inflated #'s if I feel like it.
I could also take it up to 8K or 8500rpm, there was plenty left, the turbo was far from running out of steam as is evident in the graph, with the power not dropping off. It didn't reach peak torque until nearly 7000rpm.
I could also take it up to 8K or 8500rpm, there was plenty left, the turbo was far from running out of steam as is evident in the graph, with the power not dropping off. It didn't reach peak torque until nearly 7000rpm.
Last edited by Banzai-Racing; 05-14-09 at 06:19 PM.
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05-14-09, 06:25 PM
#10
No, the .84 gives great response and is hardly running out of breath. Look at the chart, we were taking the car to 7500rpm, the power never dropped off. I used to run the 1.06 on my FD, it was OK but you end up waiting for the power. I currently have a 1.00 on a GT42RS bolted to my 20B, this should yield very fast response and make tons of power.
05-14-09, 06:29 PM
#11
you are running one of the shorty 4" K&N filters correct? Do you think those affect power on an application such as this? I read so many different opinions about them. I just bought one for my new setup and I'm wondering if it will hold me back. I just didn't want a TID taking up a ton of space.
other questions, and I know you're a shop so you may not feel comfortable fully answering them:
what side seal clearance are you running? Do you think it affects power much?
what AFR? What timing advance (leading and split) are you running? Did you pick up much power from playing with these factors?
other questions, and I know you're a shop so you may not feel comfortable fully answering them:
what side seal clearance are you running? Do you think it affects power much?
what AFR? What timing advance (leading and split) are you running? Did you pick up much power from playing with these factors?
05-14-09, 06:35 PM
#12
It is drawing some hot air from the radiator, but my IAT's never went over 36C. I am also running the RB exhaust, this is probably hurting more. I am not interested in pulling every ounce of power out of the car, I could easily install water/meth and crank the boost up to 25PSI, but a 400+ HP Vert is pretty sweet for a street machine. It is a blast to drive you can't even hear it running at idle.
05-15-09, 05:38 AM
#14
other questions, and I know you're a shop so you may not feel comfortable fully answering them:
what side seal clearance are you running? Do you think it affects power much?
what AFR? What timing advance (leading and split) are you running? Did you pick up much power from playing with these factors?
what side seal clearance are you running? Do you think it affects power much?
what AFR? What timing advance (leading and split) are you running? Did you pick up much power from playing with these factors?
I always shoot for mid 11's in the AFR's under higher boost, and the timing is similar to what we send out in the base maps with the PFC adapter.
05-17-09, 10:26 AM
#17
We have both 93 and 94 (Sunoco) octane available at the pump. I have been tuning for a very long time, trust me when I say I know what is a safe AFR. I will update this thread with new numbers when I take the RPMs higher.
05-17-09, 11:18 AM
#18
F**K THE SYSTEM!!
I was reading this article on how n/a rotaries dont need knock sensors and how you have to go aggressive with timing and fuel to even cause detonation.
But with turbos. They talk about the 2,400-3,800 rpm area being really prone to detonation.
What is the trick to tuning this rpm range?
But with turbos. They talk about the 2,400-3,800 rpm area being really prone to detonation.
What is the trick to tuning this rpm range?
05-17-09, 11:44 AM
#19
There is no "trick", you just have to know what you are doing. I do not know who "they" are, "they" must be the people that blow up their engines trying to learn how to tune. Making a blanket statement that turbos detonate at low RPM's is foolish. Some turbochargers are so slow to spool up they do not even see positive pressure until after 4k, others spool up fantastically fast....Each car needs to be tuned to it's own peak performance, based off the mods and what the owner is looking for out of the vehicle.
When we install PFCs on N/A cars we install a knock sensor....
When we install PFCs on N/A cars we install a knock sensor....
05-17-09, 12:26 PM
#20
F**K THE SYSTEM!!
"they" = the article.. not sure why i refered to it as they.
Well the article states that the air temps in that rpm range get high on turbo rotaries.
I am speaking of turbo cars with fast spooling turbos such as the stockers.
Article says of how n/a rotaries didnt use knock sensors until the first turbo rotary which was the 12a-t.
Well the article states that the air temps in that rpm range get high on turbo rotaries.
I am speaking of turbo cars with fast spooling turbos such as the stockers.
Article says of how n/a rotaries didnt use knock sensors until the first turbo rotary which was the 12a-t.
05-17-09, 12:40 PM
#21
This is not a topic for this thread. Any decent EMS will allow for fuel & ignition corrections based on IAT's as well as modification to the injector staging. The stock ECU has many known issues at lower rpm boost and injector transition, this is why we do not recommend heavily modifying a car without a standalone EMS.
Luckily we do not have any of these problems in our Vert since it has been modified and tuned correctly.
Luckily we do not have any of these problems in our Vert since it has been modified and tuned correctly.
