EB Turbo

iTrader: (1)

That is the easy part. The crank wizard will be the same as the FD RX-7. The coils will be defined as leading and trailing in the Coil/Inj options window.

EB Turbo

ruddyrid

iTrader: (8)

Oh ok, nice. Hopefully I can mess around some more with the software this weekend.

Thanks again EB for cheering me up. Can't wait to get the tune with you guys!

ruddyrid

iTrader: (8)

Just wanted to throw in a quick update. I got my stuff in already and ended up getting a GM 3 bar MAP sensor.

I started installing some of the parts already and making sure I have my schematics drawn out correctly. Don't want to end up chasing my tail and realizing I mixed up the boost control solenoid wires with the AFR or whatever.

Also, today at work I tried something that for the longest time I thought would not work. I copied over the base map settings from the AEM Pro software for the early model FD RX7 to the AEM Tuner software for the EMS-4.

All I had to do was go into the Compare Calibrations tool in the Tuner software and open up the calibration settings that come with the PRO software.

I hope thatll at least get ne to idle.

I still need to print out the complete user manual for the EMS-4. I thought it was going to come with it but it ended up only coming with a dinky 5 or 10 page pamphlet.

EB Turbo

iTrader: (1)

Make sure the part number on the sensor matches one of the numbers in the wizard for map sensors. If not you can calibrate it manually but is complicated if you don't have the necessary tools.

You were right about it not working. Even though Series II and EMS-4 use the same AEMTuner program they have different firmware, different settings in the maps, diff I/O settings and use different workspaces. What you did may work for series II stuff but not EMS-4. Spend the time to understand the EMS-4 settings and you will find them really easy to use.

Not to mention the base map for the 30-1800 barely runs the RX7s. You will also want to switch to AlphaN tuning.

EB Turbo

ruddyrid

iTrader: (8)

^ ^_^

Thanks for double checking that EB, but yea I made sure the MAP is one that is already compatible in the Wizard.

And as for the Calibrations. I know there are still quite a few of I/O's that will not work(when imported from a EMS2 Cal) and I would need to comb through it to get rid of settings or parammaters that I won't need, but what was my main concern was getting some kind of fuel and ignition map to get me started.

After printing out the EMS-4 user's manual(I can now see why they didn't include it w/ the EMS) and reading through maybe 1/8 of it, it all is starting to make sense and basically teaches you how to start with nothing and get the ball rolling to eventually start up your car. It doesn't draw it out for you because, of course, you need to know what I/O's you want to use and for what, which if you get the pre made 96" lead harness is really simple, you just need to worry about 8 wires and what you want to use them for(and make sure you get compatible sensors and such).

[COLOR="Red"]One thing I just paid attention to though[COLOR="red"] is that the AEM "Smart" Coils, which can be wired up directly to the EMS are really cheap. I think I'll be getting two of them(that's if I don't find a second set of FC trailing coils so I can use the igniter and modify it).

EB Turbo

iTrader: (1)

You do not need another FC trailing igniter. You can use any igniter with the trailing coils. I have done them with bosch igniters that fit into the stock FC trailing enclosure. The EMS-4 and AEM systems in general do not allow for different dwell settings for leading and trailing coils. I would not recommend running different types of coils unless you know they use the same dwell settings.

EB Turbo

ruddyrid

iTrader: (8)

Oh ok. That makes perfect sense. Damn thanks for the advice againg EB. Looking forward to some long nights *_*

EB Turbo

iTrader: (1)

http://sphotos-b.xx.fbcdn.net/hphoto...84903303_n.jpg

Here is an EMS-4 harness I built a while back. This was based off of a 96" lead like you have. I threw away the relays, fuses, power wiring, gnd wiring, aem cam/crank shielding. All new circuits, custom relays and fuses. Better mil spec shielded wire. The factory AEM shielded wires for the cam/crank come with 12v wires inside which are not needed and the two leads are separate. In your case they will go to one connector. It will just be a bit more bulky but can still be retained. I will post more pics if you want on Monday.

EB Turbo

ruddyrid

iTrader: (8)

Yea I might modify the AEM harness a bit but over all, I'm going to use the relays/circuits/fuses it already provides.

For the cam and crank leads I was thinking of leaving them how they are basically and just putting some heat shrink over them to make them into "one" lead. I did think it might be a bit bulky but it shouldn't be too bad.

Oh if you don't mind answering, where do you get the little heat shrink labels with the yellow and stuff. I don't think I need it but if its not pricey ill add that on as well. Keep everything neat.

EB Turbo

iTrader: (1)

I make my own. I have a label maker that prints on heat shrink.

EB Turbo

ruddyrid

iTrader: (8)

So after quite a bit of soldering and wiring, I'm getting close to having a fully functional EMS system.

I ended up doing the FC trailing coil mod yesterday and got everything wired up.

From what I can tell(using simple logic) the "Tan" wires on the 2 pin connect need 12v w/ System ON.

In the picture I attached here, from what I can tell, the "White" wire I'm pointing at is the "Signal" lead for the T2 coil and the "Red" wire right below it will be the signal lead for the T1 coil.

As for the Leading Coil pack, wiring should be straight forward, "Signal 1" from the EMS will go to the signal wire on the ignition module and power will be supplied to the "Tan" wire.

The thing I'm having issues with right now is setting up the CAS, and getting the injector and coil phasing down. Probably need to do some math and research on exactly how a rotary engine is timed.

I do understand that for the "Signal 1" output, L1 will fire as Coil Output 1 as per the AEM Tuner Software. "Signal 1" will also fire L2 and that will be, I guess, phased or switched through Coil Output #1B.

If somebody already knows on how to set up the CAS and know what values to use on the coils and injectors phasing that'd be great. Any help is much appreciated.

EB Turbo

iTrader: (1)

Have you added a second igniter, or did you change out the igniter all together?

Correct


Inj1 Primary tooth 0.00
Inj2 Primary tooth 6.00
Inj3 Secondary tooth 0.00
Inj4 Secondary tooth 6.00

Coil1 Leading 0.00
Coil1B Leading 6.00
Coil2 Trailing 0.00
Coil3 Trailing 6.00

Copy all of the advanced pickups settings from the 30-1800 base cal in AEMPro. I think Ive been giving you too much information. Are the other EMS forums this helpful?

EB Turbo

ruddyrid

iTrader: (8)

I did end up intalling a second igniter from an FC Trailing Coil Pack. The instructions that Banzai provides are a bit confusing but the end result will work as long as you go step by step.

I might try to do a write up here in case Banzai's site goes down and to help explain it to anyone that might get confused.

And yes, I would say you have definitely helped out plenty EB, but I'm sure this wont help just me but anyone else who is looking for a very capable and fairly affordable EMS. I have not posted too much in other forums for two reasons; 1, it takes up quite a bit of time and 2, people are more likely to come acrross this info here if they ever have issues with their EMS-4 that is going on a 13B.

con-3-fc3s

How's the AEM doing?.. Any new updates.

EB Turbo

iTrader: (1)

I am in the process of putting EMS-4s in an RX3 Autox car with a GT35R and a Miata with a 1.8l and a GT2561. The combo that Rudy is putting together has been done before. No one has documented it online so far. If you or someone is interested in an EMS4 PM me and I will answer your questions.

EB Turbo

con-3-fc3s

Ok will do!.. Yeah already have the ems4 just need to get some sensors and a long harness.

ruddyrid

iTrader: (8)

Hey guys, well I'm back. Been kinda lazy and working on suspension stuff whenever I'm not helping out with family stuff or house chores. Anyways, not much progress has been mad on my end. I just today got to trying to start my car again, and it still does the same thing.

It'll start up for about 10 seconds and then just die as if it lost fuel or went too rich. I think I may just change the fuel pump for the hell of it. Need to figure this out fast or else I'll be riding my bike to work in the rain!!!

Hi Im Simon

iTrader: (6)

I've been running the EMS4 for 3 months now. Although I don't have a full tune yet. I'm still breaking in the engine.

mynewhaircut

what base cal in the ems-4 were you starting with.....
ill be running the FFE crank trigger kit with hall sensor
t3/t4 hybrid 60 trim (yeah i know)
FFE fuel setup running 725/2000s
custom vmount and custom long runner manifold
aem smart coils
s5 LIM to s6 UIM and 80mm throttle body with a Q45 TPS
emissions all removed/OMP removed

C. Ludwig

iTrader: (27)

Jonathon, drop me an email to remind me and I'll get a startup map out to you.

mynewhaircut

and you sir just keep making my purchase even more worth it. I can not say enough for ludwig motorsports and the customer service he has provided already for me. this project would be in a state of confusion had it not been for him. thank you sir.

EB Turbo

iTrader: (1)

This is usually what happens when you buy from reputable shops. Unfortunately they are few and far between in this market.

EB Turbo

mynewhaircut

indeed good sir.