ondabirdhouse

iTrader: (26)

Just finishing up my build and I really need a decent starting point for a calibration on the series 1 ems pnp.

List of Mods:
Large street port
13b Cosmo uim/lim
1680 sec / 850 primary
90 throttle body with fd TPS
T51R SPL turbo with 50mm wastegate
emissions removed
Greddy 3 row FMIC
9.5 lb flywheel with act clutch
nur spec exhaust w/o cat.
gm 3 bar map sensor

I think thats the majority of mods that would affect tune. I also have an Apexi AVC-R controlling boost so I'm guessing I would have to set up the tune to adjust under boost rather then have the ecu control boost.

One more thing, i plan to run 50/50 meth/water injection. My understanding is that I need a good tune without meth/water and then adjust the timing with I add meth/water...is that correct?

Anyway, any help would be very much appreciated!
thanks,
Bird

EB Turbo

iTrader: (1)

I dont have a base map for you but There is no reason why you cant just use all the wizards and make one your self. You just need to decide if you want speed density or Alpha N.

You can take the boost solenoid from the AVC-R and plug it into the Stock harness. it runs off the same frequency as the stock solenoid, 31Hz. we sell a connector kit to make it plug in if your solenoid doesn't have the proper connector already. Boost control in the AEM is way more advanced then the AVC-R. you would be a fool not to use it.

EB Turbo

silverfdturbo6port

iTrader: (26)

aem offers you several base tunes in the files for tuner.

ondabirdhouse

iTrader: (26)

just got back from 2 weeks in the field. I don't know to much about tuning with an aem. I have been playing with the base cals that come with the software but due to the extensive modifications on my car i don't quite feel confident slapping together a decent drive-able cal for the first time. I guess I was hoping to look at someone else's tune who has some of the same mods to build off of and then change/fine tune it to my setup. ultimately im just trying to get a tune i can use to get it to a real tuner/dyno.

silverfdturbo6port

iTrader: (26)

yea the base tunes that aem offers are perfect for what your doing.
open pro, connect ecu, go to file, open, go into the c drive, select program files, go to aem folder open it up, then open aem pro folder, then open start up calibrations, open mazda and i am willing to bet the file 1800 StockTwin1600cc.V1.19 will work best . then you will need to follow the ignition sync up as every car is different even if i send you a tune. you will find how to do that in the aem pro user guide on your desktop on page 68 is the beginning on start up syncing. its super complex to those with little to no experience but its a great ecu as it does everything that you could ever want it to do.
if all else fails tow it to a tuner.

D Walker

iTrader: (1)

I might be able to help. Shoot me a PM or email me at don@grid-1.net

ondabirdhouse

iTrader: (26)

I'm back finally. I'm very close to finishing my build...its taken way too long!!! But I'm ready to jump in the tuning process. Keep in mind that I don't have the car completely ready to access and sync the sensors and whatnot.

End Goals:
-To be full boost comp
-Learn as much as I can about tuning
-Don't blow my engine

I have been reading a bunch about tuning with the Series 1 as well as playing with other forum member's maps. I have a decent idea of what's going on now but i'm still learning.
I will be starting with the stock twin turbo cal, although I have heard/read that its not a great map but I have to start somewhere. My understanding is that I get a decent base map and from there I can take my Engine Load vs RPM @ WOT and go boost comp.

Any rookie mistakes or pointers for the Noob???


If D Walker is still around I should pm him regarding his last post.

EB Turbo

iTrader: (1)

I haven't seen d walker on here in a while. Depending on your setup the preferred method of tuning is AlphaN with boost comp. it you are running a high boost spread from low to high boost you will either want to run AlphaN with boost comp and 4d speed density comp tables or you can run the boost comp with throttle offset and loose some throttle resolution. The 30-1800 cal needs a lot of work. You can start with it but you will probably need to change a lot just to get to a good starting point. Most of it is actually really easy you just need to know what to look for.

What setup are you running? Turbo/s, injectors, coils....

EB Turbo

ondabirdhouse

iTrader: (26)

Large street port
13b Cosmo uim/lim and IAC valve
ford 1680 sec / siemens 850 primary
90 throttle body with fd TPS
T51R SPL turbo with 50mm wastegate
twin walbro intank 255 pumps
emissions removed
Greddy 3 row FMIC
9.5 lb flywheel with act hd clutch
blitz nur spec 3inch exhaust w/ pettit resonated midpipe (I know this will be restrictive, should go with 4inch)
gm 3 bar map sensor from banzai racing
fuel -- full -AN lines and fittings with aeromotive A1000 regulator
Underdrive pulleys
plx wideband
aem/Mac wastegate solenoid
Fast Reacting AIT
stock coils with HKS Twin power
NGK plugs 9's for both leading and trailing (might need 10's but I have water/meth injection too)

thats all I can think of at the moment.

AlphaN - thats TPS position vs RPM right?
Any more advice or better maps to start with?

thanks, EB.
-Bird

EB Turbo

iTrader: (1)

All of that stuff shouldn't be an issue. depending on what you are expecting to get out of a base map is I guess what you should shoot for. If you want something to run and drive right out of the gate you may need to look for one or pay for one. If you are ok with tuning the fuel map your self you can do some homework and put all of the right settings into the a stock base cal. You can convert a PFC timing map to start but you will need to do all of the fuel map tuning yourself. If you do either AlphaN or full boost comp with throttle offset fuel map tuning is pretty straight forward.

EB Turbo

ondabirdhouse

iTrader: (26)

got a question. What plug on the stock harness should be controlling my external wastegate?

Because I picked up a used converted to single harness and it looks like the only plug I have is the Purge Control Valve. In the Banzai 30-1800 PNP reference PDF it has:
4U - Boost control sol = pw2
3H - Purge Control sol = LS4

I guess I'm confused as to what the ECU should be using to control the wastegate. I will check the map in the aem software but I'm curious as to what everyone else is running?

EB Turbo

iTrader: (1)

4U - PW2 is the boost control solenoid. This wire goes to the solenoid and the other goes to 12v SW. If you are not using the Purge control you can switch the wires in the ECU plugs. 3H and 4U are different sized pins so you will need to change it over.

EB Turbo

ondabirdhouse

iTrader: (26)

okay, thats what I figured. I wasn't sure if the ECU had the capability to switch its outputs but after reading it I concluded that the 4U is a special Pulse Width Switch, hence the PW2, specifically for boost control solenoids.

EB Turbo

iTrader: (1)

Yup..

EB Turbo

ondabirdhouse

iTrader: (26)

okay, I'm back for more knowledge.
Lets talk Wideband. I saw in AEM Pro there is O2 feedback and other features as well as data logging. My question is:
Do I wire the 0-5v signal wire from my wideband to the stock O2 location (black wire - 3C) or do I have to wire it in one of the aux inputs because the stock narrow is 0-1v and the 5v would cause problems?

I thought I would ask. Better safe then sorry.

EB Turbo

iTrader: (1)

YES

The Lambda 1 input (3C) will work with either 0-1v or 0-5v inputs. You will need to use the wizard to set the 0-5v scale. you will also need to set the offset to make sure the UEGO gauge and the ECU are reading the same AFR numbers.

Side note: If you were to wire the 0-5v AFR voltage to another 0-5v input you will only be able to log the actual voltage. The ecu will no recognize it as a Lambda reading nor will it allow you to make corrections based off of the data. Only the Lambda 1 channel will work for that.

EB Turbo

ondabirdhouse

iTrader: (26)

Great, thanks EB Turbo.
I'm running the PLX setup with a DM-200 gauge. I have the AEM setup PDF that was created here and I remember there being an offset value depending on brand in the pdf...I'll dig it up.

thanks again.

EB Turbo

iTrader: (1)

The old way of doing it was the offset. That is a % multiplier. It will work for the one spot you test but it will be incorrect for the ends of the scale. In the Series II they did away with the offset and just have you compensate for the voltage drop between the ECU and UEGO controller. Hook up the wideband. Set the offset to 1.00. go to the O2 #1 cal table and move the entire scale up or down to match the UEGO display.

EB Turbo

ondabirdhouse

iTrader: (26)

back again. I'm currently trying to start my car and for the love of god i cannot get it to start. it catches and starts but as soon as it comes off the startup/crank trims it just dies. I remember silver stating that i had to sync up my ignition but i don't have a timing light as it says i need one in the aempro guide. any suggestions?

ryan1

iTrader: (5)

Your sync is probably close, you still need to do it, but it should run. If it dies when it comes off the crank trims it probably needs more fuel. Go to your warm up enrichment table and add fuel until it runs. Do you have a wideband? Did you do the math and set up your injector staged flow ratio?

ondabirdhouse

iTrader: (26)

it must be my sync. I'm running rich. I had it running once but the afr were in the mid 10s. i have the staged flow ratio at -49 for 850 primaries / 1680 secondaries. I'm currently going back to the 1600stocktwins map and setting up everything again to make sure i didn't goof up something. I have heard from many people that the stock maps have awful ignition split values/table.

Also I have the rotary works 90mm throttle body. I think that its making it more difficult due to losing the stock function of the primaries getting air first.

ryan1

iTrader: (5)

Can you keep it running if you put your foot in the throttle? If you think/know it is rich start with removing fuel in the warm up enrichment table.

ondabirdhouse

iTrader: (26)

nope, any sort of throttle and it died. I tried removing fuel after it died and couldn't get it to start ever since. I've deflooded it many times and put air tool oil in the chamber via sparkplug holes thinking maybe it needed some lube but nothing.

ryan1

iTrader: (5)

If you post you email I will send you my one of my maps you can reference from.

ondabirdhouse

iTrader: (26)

ill pm you.