Skeese

iTrader: (11)

Hey guys!

I frequent this ECU section and wanted to start a thread to document my tuning progression, share my setup for opinions and suggestions, and highlight the benefits and features this ECU has to offer! I find that this section is mostly used for troubleshooting but want to show the success I’ve had with this ECU and hopefully remove some of the mystery associated with tuning this little black magic box. I am by NO means an experienced tuner or a professional. The maps included in this thread are a product of my research, input from others, and my experience from tuning my car. I would not recommend the use of my maps on anything other than MY car and I am not liable if you blow yours up. This is meant to serve as a tuning reference only. My tuning experience starts with my tuning of this ECU with my old sequential twin setup through my current single turbo setup combined with a year's worth of nonstop researching and learning.

The biggest thanks in my tuning progression goes to Socks and James Paventi who have both answered a million of my questions, sent maps and tunes to reference, and spent a ton of there personal time educating me. The next biggest help was joining Raymond and Chuck's power FC tuning group. The amount of quality information and immediate feedback that group has to offer is unparalleled. My only regret was that I didn't join sooner. I would 100% recommend joining this group if you plan to do any self tuning regardless of ecu.

My setup and mods are:

OEM Stock Port Motor - 49,000 Original Miles – Never rebuilt
A-Spec Tuning Single Turbo Kit
PT6266BB Turbo 1.0 Housing
Dual Precision 46mm Wastegates Dumped to the Atmosphere
Adaptronic PnP ECU
Innovative MTX- L Wideband
MAC 3 Port Solenoid for Boost Control
Full Function Engineering Fuel Rails
ID 725 Primary Injectors / ID 2000 Secondary Injectors
Fuelab Mini FPR
Aeromotive 340 Stealth Fuel Pump
Defined Autoworks V-Mount
Triumph “Fast Acting” IAT Sensor
BUR9EPQ Spark Plugs in Leading and Trailing Positions
Apexi N1 Split Exhaust
Bonez High Flow Cat
EGR, ISC, ACV, Double Throttle, Thermowax, and Air Pump Removed
No Power Steering
No A/C (For now…Texas is proving to be too hot for no AC)

The attached ECU file (SA_6266_10PSI_V1.0) served as the base-map for my tune. I built this file taking into account a number of factors from my old sequential tune, a timing map based on interpolated values from Chuck Westbrook’s power FC GT35R Stock Port No W/I map, and a fuel map for a similar single turbo car that had been tuned by Elliot White of Turblown (fuel has been added across the entire boost range for safety). The Triumph Fast acting sensor calibration was borrowed from James Paventi who had tested the sensor output.

The fuel map has been scaled to 21 PSI and the rpm increments to 500. As of now the idle, cruise, and boost cells for 10 PSI are tuned for target AFR’s interpolated from Chuck’s “conservative” AFR table. I am be using the 9lb wastegate springs aiming to achieve 10 PSI as a baseline for moving forward.

I am currently a few maps ahead of this and a few boost levels higher. I'll be updating this thread with that information including the changes made, reasons the changes were made, maps reflecting these changes, and finally my current map where I am at now at 13 PSI that takes into account some mods since this was initially created.

I am 100% open to any suggestions and comments as I move forward.

Thanks for reading! If you made it this far hopefully you'll stick around for the good things ahead.

-Seth

damunky

iTrader: (2)

Looking forward to more write-ups

I'll be following this thread for when I break up with the twins and go single

Turblown

iTrader: (12)

Very cool!

I am going to toss something out a few points here that might be helpful to you and everyone else;

A) if you are not revving past 9K rpms( where very few cars/ports making power anyhow). I like to set the RPM step points to 300rpms. This give more resolution and the ability to make the AFRs across the rev range even smoother. This is found in the Tuning Tab section.

B) Make sure you're target AFR map is setup properly, this affects fueling EVEN when in open loop.

C) Be aware at ALL times of your ecu trim in the engine data page. It is best to be tuning with a trim of ZERO. If the ECU does show a trim, make sure you understand where it comes from and why it is there.

D) Always check your base timing on each coil

E) Datalog EVERY pull, its best to use the megalog viewer software( separate 3rd party )


I am going to do a how to tuning video very soon too.

Skeese

iTrader: (11)

Thanks Elliot! Much of what I've learned I picked up from your threads both on here and on the adaptronic forums and it has all been extremely helpful.

I plan to eventually re-scale the rpm range to increase in 300 rpm increments as you suggested once I have access to a dyno to do some 'fine' tuning. I wanted to get a rough map charted out before I add the extra resolution. From having played with re-scaling it I found that WARI will interpolate the values for the new rpm increments in-between my set values, which should make the re-scale re-tuning pretty easy once my current map is close. Also, I reconfigured my target AFR table since this initial map was made.

I'll be tuning the map aiming for 0% trim as suggested so that he ECU only has to add/remove fuel in precise small increments (aiming for +/- 1%). I've been using the megalog viewer for a while now, I think I discovered it after you had posted a thread about it some time back.

I have several maps and updates for this thread I'll be posting this weekend that will catch this up to where I'm at now. Currently the car is down for a clutch swap and with any luck I'll be back to tuning by this weekend.

-Seth

Skeese

iTrader: (11)

I started with the V1.0 Map that was previously attached by firing the car and tuning idle once it was warm. As I no longer have an ISC valve idle was set manually by simply adjusting the idle set screw to lower it to 900 rpms and then further adjusting the idle bleed screw to achieve my target 850 rpm idle. I then adjusted the fuel in the idle range cell by cell to get the car to idle at a 13.0 AFR with 0% ECU fuel trim.

I am currently running 0 degrees timing in the idle region and in an effort to smooth idle changed the split to 20 in the rotary split spark table. (Credit to James' Twin Turbo thread on here) and this seemed to smooth the idle substantially.



Next I used the rapid learning feature to tune my cruising vacuum cells by simply setting up the rapid learn parameters and closed loop conditions and then going for an easy NO-boost drive around the block. I made an effort to try and stay steady on the throttle and truly replicate cruise conditions with no rapid throttle changes. I've found that this is where the adaptive mode of the ECU really helped me out and sped up my process as after only 30 minutes the car was running solid in nearly every stop-go and cruise situation and hitting the target AFRs.

On to initial boost tuning. Given that I was running 9lb wastegate springs and my target boost for this map was 10 PSI I started with 0% duty cycle across the entire rpm range. I started slowly applying more and more throttle and slowly spooling the turbo in 4th gear logging and watching my AFRs as I went. Small fuel changes were made based on the logs in the 2000-4000 rpm range where the turbo was coming up to boost to keep me near my target AFR. Once the map was relatively close to target AFR I changed the close loop conditions to run up to 8 PSI and planned to tune the boost cells in open loop.

Once comfortable with the building-boost AFRs I began making full throttle pulls in 4th and 5th and found that I reached 9.4 PSI on just the wastegate springs. As soon as I passed 7 PSI the AFR was going into the mid-to-high 10's due to the excessive fuel I placed in these cells for an initial safety factor. I removed fuel in the 10 PSI boost cells based on logs to achieve the target AFR (low 11's) and then set the ECU to run closed loop up to 10 PSI and verified via logs that the ECU is only trimming fuel +/- 1-2% to hit and hold the target AFR.

Once comfortable with the idle, cruise, spool, and ~9 PSI boost cells I began adding wastegate duty cycle to bring the boost up to 10 PSI. This took a number of runs increasing the DC in extremely small increments to achieve due to the fact I had NO idea what DC level would cause the MAC valve to start affecting the boost level nor did I know how much it would. Somewhere around 20% duty cycle I began seeing the boost move upwards and found that 26% would spool the turbo to hit the target 10 PSI and then this needed to progressively increase to 30% starting at 5000 rpms to hold the boost at 10 PSI. I went back through logs and again modified the VE fuel map in the 10 PSI cells to precisely hit the target AFRs at this boost level and then spent a full week enjoying driving the single turbo setup with a halfway decent tune!!

The attached map is my final 10 PSI tune that took into account all that was listed above. This was my first driving experience on a single turbo 13b and can honestly say the conversion has been worth it already. The car absolutely screams when the wastegates open and the car pulls hard when in boost. I CANNOT wait for more boost.

Here's a quick low rpm pull video that was made with the car running on the attached tune at 10 PSI.


Thanks for reading! I'll update it this weekend with the changes made to hit 12 PSI and then 13 PSI where I am currently at. I won't be moving up to 15 until I get this clutch swap sorted out, which is proving to be a real pain.

-Seth

arghx

iTrader: (3)

good to see you making progress on this car. I'm curious, what was the reasoning behind deleting the ISC valve? You lose some flexibility when you get rid of it, especially in a situation like a hot start. The Power FC doesn't let you tune the ISC valve, so it's kind of a pain in the ***/useless, but the Adaptronic has much more capability.

If you're concerned about making things too complicated, I wouldn't. The valve is there for a reason. There is a certain order of steps to go through with tuning an ISC, idle tuning, and accessory load (including A/C) from scratch. It's not too much clutter or hassle to have it on there, although nobody likes working back near the firewall.

If you do decide to put it back on, you can gradually build the open loop portion and make the tune more sophisticated over time. With stock ports you should be able to make this thing idle almost as low and stable as a stock car. I recently did a bunch of ISC and idle tuning on a turbo Miata--spark timing, injection timing, closed loop fuel, ISC valve duty cycle, feedback gains, dashpot functionality, electrical load compensation. It's not that bad when you have a good starting point.

Skeese

iTrader: (11)

Thanks!

I actually removed the ISC valve for no other reason than it seemed to a normal practice when swapping to a single turbo setup and simplifying the UIM. In hindsight I wish I would have kept the valve due to the flexibility it adds especially with the adaptronic control. I managed to tune the car with the ISC valve on the old twin setup so I'm not overly concerned about added difficulty, but more so with the benefits. I've got one on the way from a friend and will be re-installing it when I get around to it.

I plan to update this post and catch back up to my current setup here soon. The car is down for a clutch swap which is taking more time than planned.

estevan62274

iTrader: (32)

Lots of good info here...thanks for sharing your experience with the Adaptronic.
I'll be in your shoes in the near future and this will help out.
Big thumbs up!
Steve

Skeese

iTrader: (11)

Alright guys..finally found time for an update.

The attached map was my final 12 PSI map on the setup posted. I was comfortable with the AFR pattern and tune at 10 PSI so I started slowly increasing the wastegate duty cycle and reviewing logs to determine where exactly it needed to be to hit and hold 12 PSI. The changes from the 10 PSI map to this include:

- Target AFR set to be consistent after 5000 rpms. This is for ease of tuning. I decided to do this after referencing multiple maps and tunes from those more experienced than myself and it appears to be common practice.
- Small amount of fuel removed in the 10 PSI cells from 3500 - 8000 RPMs based on data from logs.
- Fuel added in the 3000-4000 rpm cells from 0-7 PSI to help prevent leaning during turbo spool and hard acceleration.
- Asynchronous Gain (for MAP prediction) dropped to 175% to reduce the amount of fuel being sprayed on a rapid throttle change.
-Changed from Rapid Learning to Closed Loop up to 10 PSI.
- Wastegate duty cycle values were increase so that my setup would hit and hold 12 PSI across the rpm range.

All logs from this final tune still show a slight leaning during the 0-7 PSI range. My next update will include a enriched section here that will serve to hold the AFR near target during this 'spool' period, however as I am currently tuning for conservative AFR's I still believe I'm in safe range with this tune.

I changed from rapid learning to closed loop since all of my fuel cells that I was allowing the adaptive mode to influence have been marked as tuned. I will be continuing forward by tuning the map by hand.

Lastly, having spent some time working on the predictable map table and settings I have learned a great deal about how they actually influence the car. For starters and most importantly (I think...) the Asynch gain % will be specific to the car being tuned and it's specific fuel setup. When the ECU senses a rapid change in throttle it sprays an additional separate pulse of fuel separate from the fuel it is already injecting from the MAP. I was using a value of 200% that I found another user on here had success with and found that this caused my car to go EXTREMELY RICH upon the quick throttle change.

I am speculating here, and maybe an expert can chime in, that the Asynch gain percentage will need to be drastically lower in a car with larger injectors than one with smaller injectors. At 200% the extra pulse of fuel was pushing my AFR down into the low 9's for 100-200 ms. I had reduced this value in the attached tune, however I suspect I will have to reduce it by a much larger percentage in order for it to get me out of the 9's.

Thanks again to all of those following! My next update will bring me up to speed on here to where I currently am at 13 PSI can take into account my swap to a non-resonated midpipe in place of the high flow cat. Again...any advise or comments are welcome as I am not yet an anywhere near an expert.

-Seth

MarkG

Kudos to you Seth!

Can't wait for Elliot's tuning video to come out.

Skeese

iTrader: (11)

Thanks Mark!

^^Big hats off to mark here for countless emails with my countless ECU questions, this guy has put ALOT of time into helping me out.

Anyways I apologize to all for the lack of updates here. I got really busy with a new job and haven't had the time to post change per change updated.

The map below is tuned to 15 PSI on E85 using a flex fuel sensor. I run an 11.8 AFR at 15 PSI with approximately 15 degrees leading timing at peak torque. The major car updates from the 12 PSI map posted below include:

-Non-Resonated MP (I had to drop duty cycle ~8-10 points as car was over boosting)
-Walbro 485 E-85 Fuel Pump (upgraded from 340 stealth)
-Exedy Twin Disc Clutch
-15 PSI and a tank full of E85.

This is my current fuel map. Its wild to me how the map begins to take shape after you go through multiple iterations of AFR tuning and naturally starts to flow which in my case helps me feel like I'm doing something right This map ran within +/- 0.1 AFR point of my target 11.8 AFR across the 15 PSI range, however as of recent I've been experiencing leaning and high injector duty cycle numbers starting at 5500 RPMS and becoming gradually worse towards high RPM. I found that this only happens when I spool 15 PSI at WOT, but when I spool 15 PSI at 50-60% throttle and hold it at that boost level and TPS value it stays perfectly on the 11.8 target AFR across the range and the max secondary injector DC is roughly 30% lower.

I'm going to attribute this to the high rpm WOT condition causing a voltage drop to the fuel pump. I've purchased the relay needed to re-wire the fuel pump directly to the battery. I should have done this a long time ago but as I wasn't experiencing any ill side affects of the existing setup it never happened. I'm also going to purchase a fuel pressure gauge and begin logging fuel pressure ASAP.




It was asked on another thread that I post my timing map that I've been running with E85. Credit for this timing map goes to Elliot White @ Turblown as I simply copied it directly from a reference E85 tune he posted on the adaptronic forums for a similarly set up car. In a quick pm conversation with him on here he stated that when on E85 he started with around 15 degrees of timing at peak torque then increased 1 degree every 500 RPMS after that. I haven't messed with the timing map and don't plan to do so until I'm on the dyno looking for that last few hp.



I was also asked to post my cranking fuel table and E85 cranking settings. The cranking fuel table below worked for me on 93 octane and the car would start both hot and cold with no issues.



I played with the additional enrichment on hot/cold cranking values and am still sorting them out. I found that leaving them both at "0" would require me to pedal the throttle during cranking to get enough fuel in the engine for it to start. I think that for cold cranking my sweet spot is in the 25-30% range and that for hot cranking it will be slightly higher in the 30-35% range, but I'm still working on this.



Other changes for this ECU file over the last include:
-PID idle values increase and "Use P&D for ignition timing" checked. This helps hold idle lower and steady.
- Throttle off (overrun) increase to 1700/1800 rpms. This helped keep the car from stalling out after coming out of gear at low RPM and hitting the fuel cut too low.
-Fuel added in air temperature correction table for any condition where MAT is less than 86F. This was just for safety so if I boost on a cold morning I'll be covered on fuel. These values haven't been tested by me, but are meant to serve as a safety net.
-Upgraded software/firmware to V14. I had to re-tune the idle cells and some of the cruising cells. The change in injector current caused the previous map to be too lean in these areas and had the ECU trimming 6-8% fuel in the idle region to stay on target.

Now that I've settled in the new job and the holidays are over I'm going to hopefully have some time to do some tuning and with any luck document it on here. Mods to come in the next few weeks include the re-installation of my ISC, direct fire AEM coils, fuel pump rewire, fuel pressure gauge, and hopefully another 2 PSI when everything else is ready!

Happy holidays!

-Seth

rmvpa1

Thanks for the helpful info. I have a 93 FD with the twin turbo set up running at around 10 lbs of boost. I have an adaptronic but haven't hooked it up yet. Will give your maps a try.

Skeese

iTrader: (11)

PAUSE! DON'T USE MY MAPS ON YOUR CAR.

You are going to need to use a map suited for a twin turbo car. The maps I've posted on here are for my 6266 single turbo setup and they will be drastically different than what you are going to need for a base map on a twin turbo car.

You are going to want to use the base map for the series 6 rx7 that adaptronic has. There are a few small things you may need to make some small changes on to get it running clean but I can help you with that! It is just small stuff like cranking fuel and idle fuel that need to be changed a bit.

-Seth

jsnow82

iTrader: (3)

Why is your timing at 0 thru 1000rpm? I must be missing something.

Jose

Skeese

iTrader: (11)

The base map actually runs 0 degrees of leading timing at idle as well. Per recommendations from the PFC tuning group and other posts on here you can run 0 degrees of leading timing at idle with a 20 degree split to smooth out idle.

Am I maybe missing something? I've never heard that 0 degrees with a negative split was a bad thing. Regardless my idle is nearly perfect and sits right at 850 rpms.

jsnow82

iTrader: (3)

Im just wondering, never seen it. -5 is the typical. I run 14degrees up to 1000rpm. Does it allow a better, leaner idle that way?

Jose Nieves

Skeese

iTrader: (11)

That is a question for someone more knowledgeable than myself as to why it works that way.

If I had to take a guess, I would say that the ignition firing earlier with a big split would allow for a longer combustion burn cycle allowing the mixture to have more time to burn prior to it being expelled into the exhaust thus generating a more stable idle at a lower rpm.

But...that is just my guess.

Rotate86

all depends on porting and target idle rpm. mixture of the two to get stable idle. Bridge and pp normally like 10deg around idle and more.most locked dizzys are up around the 22-25deg. a pp I done wasnt happy with lower then 10 but didn't like more then 15deg so settled on 12 and 1700 rpm and it's happy and stable.

qqqqball

iTrader: (1)

My Full bridge, (file attached) like 5, 10 causes it not brap, if i run 12 and 1400 rpm it is happy and stable, but at 5, i can idle at 1100, although the map is setup 1400. the low idle with solid mounts shakes the car too much and is lacking on the vacuum for the brakes at a whopping -6hg, 1400 is -9hg.

*tune file is only tuned for break in period*

Skeese

iTrader: (11)

Thanks!

That is all good info. It seems that it varies with port type, size and idle rpm. I've only ever tuned mine which is a stock port oem (never pulled or built) motor.

I currently do not have an ISC valve, however I recently spliced the wiring for it back into my harness and will be adding it when I can find the sucker in my garage. I believe it will make the cold startups alot easier as well as allow me to fine tune idle and hopefully get it down below 800 rpms.

qqqqball,

I was looking through your tune fine and you have ALOT going on in the aux out tab, some of which I'm not sure about. Can you elaborate??

qqqqball

iTrader: (1)

Aux 1 is an aquamist hsv
Aux 2 is the idle control valve
Aux 3 mac boost solenoid
Aux 4 is relay signal for methanol pump at 5 psi and 3800rpm
Aux 6 is fans turn off at 10 mph on at 400rpm, not off water temp as they are monitored by a fan controller
Aux 8 launch control active led
Aux 9-11 is launch control logic
Aux 12-15 are methanol logic
Leds on the ecu are pointless since the box is hidden.

My inputs have a provisions for methanol safety, such as level. Launch control switch, as if you click it on the module it is always on, which means I can't dyno as the gt101 sensors are mounted in the brake dust shields and read the front wheel studs.

Aquamist hsv turns the methanol nozzle into a fuel injector.

Skeese

iTrader: (11)

So I've finally had some time to put enough work into my fuel map to justify an update. I've been using the megalogviewer software in coordination to with modified excel logs and I have really dialed in the 12-15 PSI cells across the entire boost range.

Temps here in Texas have been in the mid 60's and the map itself has been tuned for AFR's to match the target with MAT values ranging from 80-90 F. Air temperature correction has been set to add fuel at any temperature below this to compensate for the change in air density. I'll be logging morning runs over the next few weeks to see if my temp trim values need any further modification.

I've re-wired my IAC valve and plan to re-tune idle this weekend aiming to get as low as possible. The value is turned off in this file through a overall control min/max value of 0.

All in all I feel that I'm closing in on the final 15 PSI 11.8 AFR tune. I'm now confident enough in my fuel map and temperature based trims to stand on the throttle all the way to 8K with it hot/cold out! Plan is to lay low until I close on this house and then once I get moved hit the dyno and FINALLY get some numbers (while also turning up to 17 PSI!)

Thanks guys, should I find time today I may try and upload my megalogviewer/log files to go with these changes.

-Skeese

Skeese

iTrader: (11)

So if there is anyone out there still following, I've made some pretty significant progress with the car. Since my last post I upgraded to the AEM IGN-1 coils, however have not yet converted to direct fire and am running in wasted spark. For anyone interested in how I came to the values in my variable dwell table my thread in the link below:

https://www.rx7club.com/adaptronic-e...tings-1094483/




I can honestly say the coil upgrade was one of the best mods that I have done to my car in a long time. It was relatively inexpensive,extremely easy to install, and has helped make the car a more reliable consistent powerful machine overall. This as of recent has become really important to me as 2 weeks ago I totaled my daily driver (at no fault of my own ) and I am now daily driving the RX7. Fun Fun Fun!

Having been in the 7 for 3 full weeks now I've had alot of time to work on the finer details of my tune and the parts of the map that don't always see the attention they need. I've dialed in my hi/lo map coolant enrichment tables to warm the car up at 12.0 up until 120F then 12.5 from 120F to 140F and then it tapers up to 13.0 where it will idle with the trim ceasing around 154F.

The 12-15 PSI cells have been tuned to hold a tighter AFR across the range where it will see 11.8 at 12 PSI and then 11.7 at 15 and I spent a significant amount of time logging constant throttle pulls across the 2, 5, 7, and 10 PSI range to lean out these lower boost regions of the map. Previously even when my 12-15 PSI cells were tuned for the 11.7-11.8 target that section in the middle still ran a mid (and even low) 11.X AFR making it a bit sluggish at low boost. When daily driving the car I find that I get alot of use out of the 0-12 PSI range being lean and on point. Simply put if I'm standing on 15 PSI I am doing something illegal.

Lastly I re-installed my ISC valve in an effort to lower idle and better control the cold morning starts however the valve has NO affect on my idle no matter what I do. I can set it to see 100% duty cycle or 0% and the idle remains the same. I will be further investigating to determine if it is a bad valve or as I expect something in my harness/wiring.



I'm extremely excited for the release of the new adaptronic software after having spent some time playing with the beta. I'll definitely be waiting a bit after it comes out to install and run it on my car, but have plans for a tablet based race dash here soon!

Cheers guys! As always, I'm no expert so please take anything I say and my maps with a grain of salt.

-Skeese

Turblown

iTrader: (12)

New software is about a week out .

Skeese

iTrader: (11)

Oh yeah! Super excited about all of that. I've had the bouncing tach issue in my car since I bought it and have done ALL this tuning with an erratic tachometer. I cannot possibly explain how annoying this is. But for the sake of not destroying some expensive as crap hard to replace part of my dash I've never pulled the trigger on fixing it and don't want to spend $800 on a racedash.

Enter: Adaptronic tablet racedash. Hells Yes.

That will likely be the item pushing me to upgrade to the new software quickly. I'm SO ready to have a tach. The only real positive experience is that I won't have to look at it to know what rpm my car is at...many a rev limiter later, I have it down by sound.

-Skeese