When I accel, pulls to the right?
#1
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When I accel, pulls to the right?
I did a search and the forum search doesn't like the word "Right" didnt know how else to ask hehe..
When Im coasting or just maintaining speed it drives straight. If I get on it and accelerate fast it will pull slightly to the right enough that I have to continually counter steer left (very slightly approx 1-2 degree in turning), then when i let off i have to correct by turning (slightly) to the right again. Any ideas?
When Im coasting or just maintaining speed it drives straight. If I get on it and accelerate fast it will pull slightly to the right enough that I have to continually counter steer left (very slightly approx 1-2 degree in turning), then when i let off i have to correct by turning (slightly) to the right again. Any ideas?
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Thanks TurBRO240
In my new search I found this which I think applies in my situation....
So I guess I need to inspect these bushings, whats the easiest way to look at them and what is Spherical fittings?
In my new search I found this which I think applies in my situation....
Originally Posted by ptrhahn
Oh yeah, and "negative camber" won't steer the car in any case, toe will. In a well engineered system, bump steer won't happen (even over bumps) because the geometry is correct. That is the case with the FD. The imperfect part is the bushings, and their compliancy under load, such as during a "launch"... something the Pettit kit solves w/ spherical fittings.
So I guess I need to inspect these bushings, whats the easiest way to look at them and what is Spherical fittings?
#4
Racing Rotary Since 1983
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in order of most probable
low right rear air pressure.
too high left front air pressure. (run 30 fr 28 rear set cold)
check right rear shock for hydraulic failure... (fluid on outer shock body)
check left front shock for hydraulic failure.
check static ride height equal left and right rear
there could be other possibilities IF the car doesn't drive straight or roll straight at neutral throttle. (they would be suspension settings and bushing/bearing slop)
keep us posted,
howard coleman
low right rear air pressure.
too high left front air pressure. (run 30 fr 28 rear set cold)
check right rear shock for hydraulic failure... (fluid on outer shock body)
check left front shock for hydraulic failure.
check static ride height equal left and right rear
there could be other possibilities IF the car doesn't drive straight or roll straight at neutral throttle. (they would be suspension settings and bushing/bearing slop)
keep us posted,
howard coleman
#6
Lives on the Forum
Bent front swaybar mounts. It preloads the bar and makes the car pull different directions when the nose pulls up under acceleration.
Check the obvious stuff first: air pressure, alignment, etc
Check the obvious stuff first: air pressure, alignment, etc
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#10
~17 MPG
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Originally Posted by DamonB
Bent front swaybar mounts.
My car was pulling to the left, especially while braking. It wasn't pulling very hard, and I think the problem developed slowly: someone else noticed it when I let them drive the car. They attributed the problem to unevenly worn brakes.
When changing coolant, I eventually found a bent left swaybar mount. After replacing the mounts (Mazdaspeed), endlinks (Mazdatrix) and swaybar (Racing Beat), the car tracked straight again.
-s-
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My car did this when I put 2 different tires on the rear, Michelin MXX3 and Michelin Pilot SX (almost identical tires). When I changed to my stock tires the problem was solved.
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Originally Posted by fabes21
Thanks TurBRO240
In my new search I found this which I think applies in my situation....
So I guess I need to inspect these bushings, whats the easiest way to look at them and what is Spherical fittings?
In my new search I found this which I think applies in my situation....
So I guess I need to inspect these bushings, whats the easiest way to look at them and what is Spherical fittings?
Yep tire pressure's will sure cause this. That's assuming that your running the same brand and size on the rear axle. If your running a different size or brand on either of the tires on the rear axle buy new tires.
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Originally Posted by fabes21
Thanks TurBRO240
In my new search I found this which I think applies in my situation....
So I guess I need to inspect these bushings, whats the easiest way to look at them and what is Spherical fittings?
In my new search I found this which I think applies in my situation....
So I guess I need to inspect these bushings, whats the easiest way to look at them and what is Spherical fittings?
Yep tire pressure's will sure cause this. That's assuming that your running the same brand and size on the rear axle. If your running a different size or brand on either of the tires on the rear axle buy new tires.
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Originally Posted by howard coleman
in order of most probable
low right rear air pressure.
too high left front air pressure. (run 30 fr 28 rear set cold)
check right rear shock for hydraulic failure... (fluid on outer shock body)
check left front shock for hydraulic failure.
check static ride height equal left and right rear
there could be other possibilities IF the car doesn't drive straight or roll straight at neutral throttle. (they would be suspension settings and bushing/bearing slop)
keep us posted,
howard coleman
low right rear air pressure.
too high left front air pressure. (run 30 fr 28 rear set cold)
check right rear shock for hydraulic failure... (fluid on outer shock body)
check left front shock for hydraulic failure.
check static ride height equal left and right rear
there could be other possibilities IF the car doesn't drive straight or roll straight at neutral throttle. (they would be suspension settings and bushing/bearing slop)
keep us posted,
howard coleman
my mr2 used to do that and this beat up truck i had.... changed the SHOCKs and that was is!!!.... maybe ur shocks are blown... check them how long u had them? miles on them?
#16
Rotor Head Extreme
iTrader: (8)
Originally Posted by KaiFD3S
check the diff bushings...
+1 for the diff bushings. My car did the same thing under acceleration. Worn diff bushings will cause the rear end to torque out of alignment under acceleration. You don't notice much under cruise (which is why your car will drive straight) cause the rear end doesn't have much load.
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