rzograbian

ok, here is my situation: i blew my orignal engine at 104k miles by boosting 18psi (uncontrolled). my motor detonated and blew my cracked my seals. it didnt take out my turbo's because driving the car home, the turbo's still boosted high. i am currently earning money and i have about $1000. my situation is that i want my car to be able to produce more hp at low boost. i dont know weather to get a reman from ray at Malloy or send my motor to pineapple and have to wait 2 months but i can get a small streetport, 3mm seals, stage1 oil mod, and coolant mods for $3600. also, if you have ordered from them, how much was shipping and who paid it. i dont know what to do. i have all other parts ready but the engine. act hd clutch rb flywheel fmic fluidline radiator fan mods please help and give you opinion if you were in this position. oh, on my car i had: apex gt exh (j spec) gutted pre cat (dp) hks intake hks ssqv bov greddy intake elbow new vaccum hose job (3days old from blowing my motor) thats all i had and i boosted about 16-18 lbs.

tBoWzeR

sounds shitty, sorry to hear about your car bro. you were boosting at 18psi uncontrollably because of boost spike? kind of sounds like your were running too rich. but anyways go for the pineapple racing street port, i've heard great things about them, i have seen their work and its top notch. when u get your car running again invest in a apexi pfc with some tuning on the dyno.
-t

Rated R1

He detonated because he was running too rich???

praveen

i blew my rotors and housing s too while boosting on a single apexi....now that i got the new standard rotors and housings, can it happen again if im not careful?
how do i protect them? shouldnt they be reenforced to handle a larger turbo (like a piston car would be?)

will a boost controller do the job? where and how much?
can i jsut reduce boost from the turbo till i get a controlelr? whats a safe boost for the standard engine?

Mahjik

Yes it can happen again and will unless you find out the cause of it. The problem is not reinforcement of the stock internals, the problem is detonation. Doesn't matter how good of seals you have in the car. If you have severe detonation, they are going to be damaged, period.

Check out ErnieT running a reman with no porting or anything running 20lbs of boost on his single turbo setup:

http://www.rx7club.com/forum/showthr...hreadid=128190


You need to find the cause of your blown engine. My initial impression is going to be from lack of proper tuning or just a general lean condition of your A/F ratio. However more info would be needed about your setup to help you sort out your problem.

Mahjik

That really depends on the goals you have for your car. If you want to be in the 400rwhp club someday, it's best to go ahead and get a ported engine with everything you want.

However, if you enjoy the car as it is, want a little more power from bolt-ons and that's it; a reman will be fine and the most inexpensive way to get back on the road.

The plus side is that Pineapple motors is that they have a 5 year warranty (if I remember correctly). The remans will only have a 1 year warranty.

rzograbian

i want to get a motor built from pineapple but they have 30 motors to do. if i order now, i will have to wait 2 months. is it really worth it?
also, i am 16 years old and low on cash! i have about a thousand and can make another thousand within this week but thats about it!

if i could get a great motor and reach the 400rwhp club, that would be my ideal goal and i dont care about waiting 2 months but is it really worth the extra grand?

i still dont know what to do.

Icemastr

16-18lbs? This was on the stock twins? For pump gas really the most you should run on any turbo is 15psi from what I have heard, in your mods you dont list an ECU or boost controller either, how were you controlling boost? Plus you were on the stock IC? The stock intercooler should be run above 10PSI for one, and #2 you need an ECU to supply more fuel. People have run the stock twins past 15PSI and gotten crazy HP numbers but have been running race gas, and tons of mods.

If what I am understanding from your original post is correct, you need to learn a bit more about what you need done to your car to not blow a motor up again.

Mahjik

My advice for you is to go with a reman.

rynberg

Sounds like your wastegate wasn't opening.

Personally, I wouldn't get a reman but if I were in YOUR shoes, that would be the cheapest and quickest way to get your car back up and running. Just make sure you have a mechanic knowledgable with installing remans as there are a few tricks.....

rzograbian

me and my father will be installing the motor. we took out a 95 motor and replaced it with another used motor a month ago. it took us about 4 days but it wasnt that hard. what will be so different with a reman??

oh by the way, my dad is a mechanic!
(thats how i got a fd when i was 16)

rynberg

My mechanic has told me that one of the reasons so many re-mans have leaks is the paint Mazda uses on the housings. The gaskets do not seal well to it and you get leaks a year later. I believe it's the front cover that is the main source of leaks. You will have to remove the paint in order to get a good seal.

Jonesboro

16 - 18 psi with your mods and stock turbos makes no sense. Was this with stock ECU and MAP sensor? I don't get it!

You seem to be focusing on replacing your motor but you also need to get an accurate understanding of what is going on with your boost!

jpandes

I recently ordered a Mazda Reman. and had it sent to Pineapple for tear-down inspection, porting, oil mods(stage 2), & upgraded coolant seals. I went this route because I wanted to minimize the down-time of my car since its a daily driver(my only car, besides my CBR). They(Pineapple) found that some parts that were reused in the Reman. were **** and had to be replaced.

Time line: It took Ray @ Malloy only a week to have the motor arrive at Pineapple. It then took Pineapple 4 weeks to finish. It then took 5-6 weeks for a local shop to do the R&R!!!(included was 2 weeks for RC Engineering to bore-out my secondaries to cc). And my car still has a coolant leak...Damnit! So much for minimizing downtime.

My advice to you is to take your car to a LOCAL shop and have them do the whole job form start to finish. Engine removal-> Rebuild -> Reinstall.

That way if something goes wrong with the motor(i.e. bad rebuild, bad install etc) you can hold one shop responsible to make things right.

The worst case scenario is that you buy a rebuit motor and have it installed by someone else and the motor(s) are **** and blows soon after you get your car back on the road. (SEARCH: ejmack1)

Who do you call to fix the problem? The motor builder? If its underwarranty, they are gonna want you to send the motor back to them for inspection before they give you another motor under warranty. You now have to pay someone $1400-1800 to remove & reinstall the motor again!

So find a good rotary shop close by and have them do the whole job.

Hope this helps...

John