zmarko

Through searching, I was coming up with conflicting numbers for decent compression on the FD rotary engine. From what I've found on scuderiaciriani.com, it says the service limit is 690 kPa {7.0 kgf/cm2, 100 psi} minimum @ 250 RPM. So what is a proper compression number for these cars?

Reason I'm asking, is I'm looking at the 3rd gen 7 again, and am trying to get solid info. Thanks.

scratchjunkie

my last motor before i pulled it out was about 90psi's all across and it pulled strong still. from the top of my head i believe its like 65>psi. but im all about be happy if it idles.

zmarko

Anyone have hard facts regarding this? I am looking for specific numbers (both in PSI, and kgf/cm2 if possible). I can't seem to locate hard data about it. I've gone through just about every thread that matched with the word "compression" in it. And I've visited all of the "major" guys' websites. Anyone with a definitive answer?

Rx7oneluv

I've always heard:
60-70 replace
70-80 your pushing it if you don't replace
80-90 middle, your choice
90-100 good
100+ don't worry bout it

Howard Coleman

iTrader: (6)

compression readings are very much rpm dependent. in other words if your motor cranks at 250 rpm versus 200 or 300 you will get significantly different numbers. there is a chart on it somewhere....
howard coleman

zmarko

Anyone have a link to this chart? I'm considering a car, but am worried about it's compression. It seems a little low to me.

RTS3GEN

Mahjik? Where is he when we need him, I'd like to know for sure too.
art

zmarko

Please someone inform me of what proper compression readings are!!

dgeesaman

iTrader: (7)

Go to www.iluvmyrx7.com, then look it up in the manual on page C-10. Acceptable is 7.0kgf/cm² (100psi) at 250rpm, with no more than 1.5kgf/cm² (21psi).

I believe that Mazda may have lowered the number to 6.0 after many engines failed (dumbasses who hammered the engine while cold).

Now go download that manual and read it before asking next time.

Sesshoumaru

iTrader: (1)

the problem is there is only one set standard and the tool costs alot to buy.

how the readings are obtained also play a big factor.

Rx7oneluv is about right for a ball park

too much difference between rotors is bad too.

zmarko

How about creating a good link so I can go download that manual before coming across like you're better than me. I already posted that 7.0 is the "minimum" compression number, I'm trying to get NORMAL, DECENT compression numbers. You've given me information I already know. And I've searched and NOT been able to come up with the information I need. THAT is why I asked.

Nathan Kwok

New cars are spec'd out to 8.5 kg/cm^2 or 121psi, and the minimum I go by (the updated minimum) is 6.0kg/cm^2 or 85psi. Anything above 7.0 kg/cm^2 or 100 psi I would consider "good" or "normal". Most properly functioning engines fall in the 7s range. Ported engines don't count. You won't start to notice power loss or idle/startup problems until below 6.0, although autos are more sensitive. The more consistant the numbers are between chambers, the better. I'd consider less than 0.5kg/cm^2 difference between the highest and lowest readings (out of 6 readings) good, most cars are under 1.0, and once the difference gets to 1.5 you start getting problems. Also, the test must be done HOT, it has been proven that doing it cold artificially inflates numbers. The standards also only apply to 250rpm at sea level. Higher elevations and/or lower rpms will lower your numbers and vice versa. Ok, I think that covers everything...

dgeesaman

iTrader: (7)

www.iluvmyrx7.com

without the comma

zmarko

Thanks dude. Exactly what I was looking for.




Thanks dude. Didn't see the comma before. Thought the link was dead. (I've run into quite a few dead links trying to find these numbers). Anyway, I'm downloading that stuff now. Thanks for the link.

MR_Rick

iTrader: (7)

According to Racing Beat's catalog the lowest you should be looking at is 75psi, that's border line. My old FD was 75psi at and it ran fine and pulled strong too.

dgeesaman

iTrader: (7)

No problem. I came off sorta snappy, sorry bout that.

I strongly recommend buying the service manual in the flesh. It's very informative, and even if you only ever change your coolant using its directions it will pay for itself. I also just bought the two videos from www.rotaryaviation.com (Bruce Turrentine's 13B Rebuild, and 3rd Gen Engine Removal/Install). Excellent, excellent information. Just seeing the tools he uses and how he approaches the tasks is very good for a shade-tree mechanic like myself. It's also proof of why I need air tools.

Dave

su_maverick

ok, read through this thread and have a couple questions. My 95 has been sitting for a while so when I brought her back out I took it directly to the shop to have the new vac lines put in and replace worn hoses/etc. A couple problems have arrisen and I was wondering if they are interlinked or I can tackle them seperatly
1.) engine was compression tested at 6.5 front, and 8.0 rear when it was cold
2.) the car is consistantly generating only 4psi boost
3.) rough idle (found the cause of this- busted wiring harness on the idle motor- will fix soon)
4.) running extremely rich - I passed va emmissions by one point at 25mph on that alone, everything else on the emmissions test was perfect.

The only thing I have done to the car is get a DP to help with heat.
Thanks!

Sonny

I had my engine checked yesterday at Rick's Rotary with the Mazda factory tool.

Cranking speed was ~280 rpm.

Front Rotor: 9.0, 8.9, 8.9
Rear Rotor: 8.8, 8.8, 8.5

Engine is a Mazda reman with about 20k miles on it. Pulls real good.

Sonny

RotaryResurrection

iTrader: (8)

To approximate psi from the mazda tester, multiply the results by 14.7.

90psi and up is a decent engine, but turbo rotaries are very good at turning 90psi into zero. 100 and up is healthy. 110+ is very strong...120+ is like new. Below 90, you're on borrowed time.

Oh, I rebuild engines for a living, so I know what Im talking about

Also, you dont need the mazda tester for a good idea of whether or not the engine needs a replacement. A piston tester, though not accurate for comparing measurements one face to another, is pretty good for measuring overall health of the engine.

4Fun

iTrader: (8)

At what RMP are you checking those at?

RotaryResurrection

iTrader: (8)

Spec is 250, you'll usually see 235-275 from a car with a decent battery.

su_maverick

kevin- so if I got 6.5 on the front, then that would be around 95-96 psi?

could my boost issue and this be linked together?

RotaryResurrection

iTrader: (8)

Right at it, yeah. It tells you that it's on the decline and you'll want to look at replacing it within 1-2 years or sooner. The only time this is not accurate is with a rebuild which is still on its way up.

Not really. It takes really low compression to lose boost...say 80 and below.

su_maverick

does it matter that I got 6.5 when the engine was cold?

dgeesaman

iTrader: (7)

Yes. Hot engines tend to seal better than cold, especially if it's an o-ring. I don't recall offhand which it's supposed to be. Also, the cranking speed needs to be factored in. Hopefully the shop handled those things correctly.