Vacuum hose diagram
#1
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Vacuum hose diagram
I am following the vacuum hose diagram I found on rx7club so I can replace all the hoses for my engine. I think I've got everything sorted except with solenoid A the diagram is a bit hard to follow. I've attached a screen shot of the hose I am having trouble with, it's the light blue one. From the diagram it looks like there should be a nipple between the light brown hose and the redish coloured hose. But I can't find anything there. Is it just the way the diagram is drawn and it is actually more around the back of the manifold, near the firewall that it attaches? I can find nipple there that is not otherwise mentioned in the diagram so I presume that is it. Can anyone confirm?
http://www.turborx7.com/images/Techn...e_diagram2.jpg
http://www.turborx7.com/images/Techn...e_diagram2.jpg
#3
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Nope, nothing there yet, which is why I am guessing solenoid A connects to it. The diagram shows the blue hose connecting around the front of the inlet manifold (front being from the diagrams pov), but I'm guessing it is more around the right hand side (near the firewall)
#5
Eats, Sleeps, Dreams Rotary
iTrader: (26)
Solenoid A connects to Pressure Regulator
The attached show the post and pre 1995 December vacuum diagrams.
1996 vs 1995 Ststem Schematic Comparison Dsv1.pdf
1996 vs 1995 Ststem Schematic Comparison Dsv1.pdf
#7
Eats, Sleeps, Dreams Rotary
iTrader: (26)
It is interesting to know that the pressure regulator will turn on if the vacuum is off. And off when the vacuum is on. Therefore, you want to make sure that the vacuum is being consistently applied. I believe the pressure regulator only needs to be turned on in very specific circumstances (hot or cold start, I can't recall) so if it is otherwise on your fuel pressure may be too high.
This is my understanding from somewhat vague manual descriptions. I invite more knowledgeable persons to correct me.
This is my understanding from somewhat vague manual descriptions. I invite more knowledgeable persons to correct me.
Trending Topics
#8
Senior Member
Thread Starter
#10
Eats, Sleeps, Dreams Rotary
iTrader: (26)
Be careful not to disturb that furl line.
Also sometimes the PRC fails. Not sure how you check while it is still on engine. Are you replacing the solenoids? If they are 20 years old, might be a good idea. The solenoid itself could fail, or the electric connector malfunction. Was the engine running. If so, did you test for codes?
Also sometimes the PRC fails. Not sure how you check while it is still on engine. Are you replacing the solenoids? If they are 20 years old, might be a good idea. The solenoid itself could fail, or the electric connector malfunction. Was the engine running. If so, did you test for codes?
#15
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Be careful not to disturb that furl line.
Also sometimes the PRC fails. Not sure how you check while it is still on engine. Are you replacing the solenoids? If they are 20 years old, might be a good idea. The solenoid itself could fail, or the electric connector malfunction. Was the engine running. If so, did you test for codes?
Also sometimes the PRC fails. Not sure how you check while it is still on engine. Are you replacing the solenoids? If they are 20 years old, might be a good idea. The solenoid itself could fail, or the electric connector malfunction. Was the engine running. If so, did you test for codes?
#17
Eats, Sleeps, Dreams Rotary
iTrader: (26)
Hesitation between turbos.
My understanding is managing the hesitation when transitioning to the second turbo has proven very difficult to remedy. It is mentioned even in the very first write-ups in the likes of Road and Track. I went from Parrallel to Sequential and back to Parallel within a year. The sequential was very nice, but we were still chasing the hesitation, when I popped a few seals and had to rebuild.
#19
Full Member
Who sells or where can one buy new solenoids from? Is there an aftermarket company selling these or is it a Mazda only item?
#20
Eats, Sleeps, Dreams Rotary
iTrader: (26)
Source for Solenoids
Well up here we can go to any Mazda Canada dealer. Single solenoids are about C$100 and the dual duty (green one) about $200, as I recall. Atkins Rotary in Washington State has extensive NOS parts and likely most of the solenoids. They cost about the same on line after exchange and mailing. There are English language parts suppliers in Japan on line as well, and again the price works out about the same. Delivery to the Westcoast takes about a week.
I believe 96 and newer got the rat box rather than the rats nest. It has about 7 solenoids and three check valves in a single unit. Cost about $550 Cdn on line. I have not heard of anyone using to replace the rats nest. I included above the routing diagram for the rat box compared to the rat's nest.
I believe 96 and newer got the rat box rather than the rats nest. It has about 7 solenoids and three check valves in a single unit. Cost about $550 Cdn on line. I have not heard of anyone using to replace the rats nest. I included above the routing diagram for the rat box compared to the rat's nest.
#23
Eats, Sleeps, Dreams Rotary
iTrader: (26)
Check Valves
You might want to replace the old check valves as well. Dale Clark on here sometimes brings them in in bulk.
Looks like you may need one coming off the UIM (part 13-995).
You may want to replace the waterhose that comes off the throttle body and runs to block behind the PRC. (13-881A) Pain to replace when it splits.
Looks like you may need one coming off the UIM (part 13-995).
You may want to replace the waterhose that comes off the throttle body and runs to block behind the PRC. (13-881A) Pain to replace when it splits.
Last edited by Redbul; 01-09-17 at 01:32 PM.