Grizzly

Hi all.

I'm thinking about fitting an alloy rad to my Fd becouse i'm going to be doing a few Track days this year and don't want any Suprises.

So i've had a look whats available and the kind of prices and tbh i don't know what the diffrence is? Well apart from i here some don't fit as well as others.

If I go for a Race rad (52mm core) which one has the best reputation/Cooling abilitys?

I've done a bit of reading up and its not realy set my mind to one.

So for those with Koyo,Fluidine,Greddy etc rads and a PFC could you post your rough Water temp after a good drive and the rough inlet air temp.

Thanks.
Chris

IRPerformance

iTrader: (41)

Koyo N-Flow or Fluidyne. Its one of the first upgrades any fd should recieve in my opinion along with ast delete/metal upgrade, vacuum hose job, and downpipe.

CantGoStraight

I went with a Koyo, didn't have any issues (followed the wrie up's from others who installed the same) no surprises. I can't give you a temp before and after as I was nursing a bad coolat seal before the upgrade and with the up grade I use Evans coolant with a zero pressure cap. I;ve tracked my car and never seen over 200 degree's F (I live in Fla. and have been out in July and August) car was fine (I didn't fair as well) too hot foe me during that time of year. The Koyo is only slightly larger in capacity than the Fluidyne and required a couple mods to fit that the Fluidyne wouldn't. There are other Rad's but I believe them to be the same capacity as the Koyo before you get to an all out racing radiator.

dgeesaman

iTrader: (7)

The track guys have all found that the Fluidyne, PWR, Mazdacomp, Koyo, etc (thicker core all-aluminum) radiators all do the same basic thing, and much better than the stock rad.

For less $$ there are all-aluminum no-name radiators that are thicker than stock but not as thick as the brand names, and these also make a good improvement over stock.

Dave

FDZero

iTrader: (10)

I hear a lot of good stuff about these from Radiator World: http://www.radiatorworld.com/radiato...no=15107&cat=1

Grizzly

So am i right in saying its the size that matters rather than the make? and the bigger the rad the more it may run into fitting issues?

I have seen some big rads on E-bay and was woundering what the diffrence between a relativly no name rad and a Branded rad of the same size? There seems to be a big diffrence in cost but is there any diffrence in running temps etc?

IRPerformance

iTrader: (41)

To a certain point larger means more cooling capacity as it will hold more coolant and more surface area will dissipate more heat, but fin design and ducting affect airflow through the radiator too. It is possible to have one too thick that it hurts cooling.

Grizzly

Is there alot of diffrence in the core design? There is a Place selling a Make i've never heard of at the moment that are 313 x 618 x 52, they look quite well made but i was a bit put off (kind of thinking it would be better buying a Good make)

Also they say its a Triple core? most of the ones i've looked at have been Dubble?

dgeesaman

iTrader: (7)

The change in core style might have a minor effect on total cooling. However, the relationships that govern the overall heat transfer are complicated, so without details (measurements) and calculation software it's hard to say for sure. Consider the fluid in the 3rd bank of cores - they only see hot air, and cooling surface area is only slightly larger. It might not help at all. It probably doesn't matter.

If the rad is bigger than stock and all-aluminum, I think you've got the radiator equipment question 90% licked. If they get too big/thick they can be annoying to install, which is why I would use a Fluidyne. Once you get the radiator you need to spend some time perfecting the ducting around it. Ducting is absolutely vital.

Dave

Mahjik

iTrader: (1)

Grizzly,

What is the use of your car and are you using the stock bumper?

jeff p

Fluidyne for me great choice! also what ever radiator you go with make sure you run a ground wire to it to prevent electrolysis.

Jeff

Grizzly

I'm looking to use it on the Track (Track days not seriously) I have the Stock front Bumper still fitted and the motor is running 314rwhp on the twins (with the profect B on).

I do used the car quite alot on the Road too (drive it to work when the weather is nice) so it does see Trafic every so often. I have to admit since the Car was set up its run warmer?? Not sure why but thats one of the reasons i'm looking to upgrade the Rad and cooling system.

I also wanted to ask about the Fans? I have been looking at peoples set ups and alot have after market fans? is there a reason why the stockers get changed? or is it just due to old age?

jeff p

stock fans work fine. also do the dale clark FC fan switch upgrade. it will help with the cooling. the fans will turn on at lower temps and its plug and play.

Jeff

Grizzly

Do you have a link to the dale clark mod? or is it on here?

Mahjik

iTrader: (1)

The reason I ask is that the larger radiators, as already mentioned, work well when air is moving through them (i.e. on a road course). In stop & go traffic, they are just larger heat sinks. If your car is going to be an occasional track car, but used mostly for the streets, I would recommend something like the Fluidyne or PWR radiators. If your car will be mainly a track car with less street driving, then something larger like the Koyo would be a better choice.

It's using the stock FC thermoswitch instead of the FD thermoswitch. That forces the radiator fans to turn on at a lower temperature than what the stock FD thermoswitch turns them on.

Grizzly

I know what your saying but isn't it the Job of the fans to keep some air flow through the rad when at Lowspeed/Stoped? Or do the fans act more to keep some air flow so it does'nt overheat?

Also i'm a little confused at the Fc fan mod? on my T2 i converted the Manual fan to Electric and i gad to Drill and Tap a hole for the Switch?, i was under the impresion you can make the fans come on earlyer using the PFC?

Mahjik

iTrader: (1)

The fans are there just to get "some" airflow through when the car is not moving or low speeds. Having a radiator that has more capacity doesn't do much if you cannot increase the airflow. This is why I recommend large radiators for those guys who mainly track their cars, not necessarily for a car which will be on public streets a majority of the time.


Yes, with the PFC you can adjust when the fans come on provided you also have the datalogit. However, IMO, if you are going to get a PFC you should also purchase the datalogit to go with it. So, with the PFC and datalogit, the FC Thermoswitch mod is not required.

Grizzly

What do you think of Ron Davis Rad's? Some one over here is selling one second hand But its not a name i've realy come across.

Mahjik

iTrader: (1)

Ron Davis makes some good radiators:

http://www.rondavisradiators.com/Welcome.htm

If its the Mazda Competition version of the radiator, it seems those aren't good for the higher HP cars on the road course:

https://www.rx7club.com/showpost.php...1&postcount=16