speeddemon7

Ok Ive asked this once before.But I recently read something on here that made me think twice.And being overly cautious I want to know rock solid info before I make any future modifications to my car.

Im currently running a blitz intake,blitz catback.Ive also changed all my vacuum lines to silicone ones as well as all new rats nest solenoids and a new engine duty solenoid.Ive also installed those cheap *** hard pipes which by the way suck for fitment(If anyone has a link to the more expensive and better fitting ones id appreciate it).I also recently added a blitz boost gauge as well.My next immediate mods will be an aluminum radiator,an aluminum ast and some hyperground wires.
Now heres where my confusion lies.After im done with all the reliability mods I want to get a downpipe, a high flow cat, a blitz front mount intercooler and a hks twin power ignition amp.And of course a blitz sbc id boost controller to limit the boost to 10 psi.

What I want to know is this.If I limit the boost to 10 psi will the car still need more fuel to compensate for the modifications?Ive heard yes and ive also heard no.Will I see any performance gains with the additional mods even if the boost is kept at 10 psi? im thinking no minus the downpipe which should still keep the engine bay cooler and the turbos happier.Although I would think the cars system would still run more efficiently.

You see my car is an auto.And unless I change it to a stick I cant run an apex power fc.I will swap to a stick but not untill I make all the other mods first.Minus a rebuilt engine with 3mm ceramics and the m2 gt30 twins.Those two mods will come after the auto to manual swap.

speeddemon7

wow.I figured At least mahjik would have answered me by now.But then again it is like 2 in the morning.LOL.
Hopefully someone can put my mind at ease so I know what I have to do.

weaklink

why wait until all of the mods are done. if you are planning on it then swap now. why risk blown apex seals going through your new turbos? you should be ok with those mods. i ran intake, DP, catback, hiflo cat for many months on my auto without any problems.

Mahjik

iTrader: (1)

According to numerous tests, yes you can run bolt-ons on the stock ECU and still have plenty of fuel at 10 PSI to be safe. The main concern is controlling boost. So, the first mod you should add after your radiator & AST is the boost controller. Using the hi-flo cat instead of a midpipe should keep you safe.

As for the AT to MT swap, I agree with Weaklink. If you know you are going to do it, why wait? If you are still unsure if you want to do it, then that I can understand.

djseven

iTrader: (56)

I pulled the boost pills on my turbos and it keeps the boost at around 8lbs on the secondary turbo even though I have a intake,dpipe,midpipe, catback and stock computer. Dynoed the car yesterday and it was running lean up to around 3500 rpms and then was running way rich above that. Car put down 295whp/243tq on stock computer and running rich top end. I was very suprised by the numbers and even more suprised to how rich the car was running above 4k rpm.

speeddemon7

ding ding ding.Im still unsure whether I want to swap just yet.So yeah. I want to get all those parts separately add them on.Which would be easier to do rather than undergo a huge project such as an auto to manual right now.If I still want to swap after all that then im going to go for it.And of course im also going to rebuild the engine,swap the turbos and get the apex power fc to really take advantage of the other bolt ons that are limited to 10 psi untill the car is built to support higher boost levels.

Mitch529

Would the same apply for a front mount, dp, cb, intake, boostcontroller, and radiator?

Soon I'm going to replace my front cover seal because its leaking badly and I figured while its all taken apart why not install a frontmount, radiator and intake. If I add a boost controller into the mix and keep it at 10 psi I 'should' be ok for a little until the pfc comes into play.

Mitch