Mitchocalypse

iTrader: (2)

I just finished a little build, I did power fc, fmic, rad, greddy intake, water injection, fuel pump, efini y pipe, it's a jdm so it has straight through down pipe, I have resonated mid pipe, and fujitsubo catback.

Before the mods, my idle was a bit high. Maybe 1200 to 1400 ish. It was suggested that the PFC might solve this.

However, now it is at about 4800 rpm idle despite the program settings. Searching, I've found I should check my throttle position but it seems okay. I could post pictures if that would help you guys help me.

Also, in told to check vac lines. I checked some of them and they seem okay. I don't see a vacuum leak causing this High idle.

I know I should check the screws by the throttle body but none of those were touched. Could it really make a difference of 4000 rpm just by adjusting?

Thanks in advance, I know this will get sorted out.

KKMpunkrock2011

iTrader: (5)

yes it can make that much of a difference, did you do the idle learn procedure? Turn the air bleed screw in at the base of the TB all the way, then back it out a quarter of a turn. Adjust as necessary.

Mitchocalypse

iTrader: (2)

Okay thanks for your help. I've turned the screw under the TB but no luck. I'm quite sure this is a fuel issue and not a vaccum issue. For one, the idle isnt rough or choppy, and if it were a vaccum, I'm told it should decrease the rpm..

But the main reason i think it's fuel is because my injector duties are reading 34% ish on the pfc. The only fuel mods are the pfc and the rotary performance fuel pump.

I think i want to hook the stock ecu just to see how it idles. I just dont know what to expect with the fuel pump.. any ideas?

Mitchocalypse

iTrader: (2)

Just to see the idle, I plugged the stock ecu back in. Turned it on, roma went high and quickly killed it. Then checked the fuel pump, replaced stock one, quickly started, same thing so I killed it and put the rp one back in.

So now I'm onto thinking it's a vacuum leak. Now where the heck do I start looking? As far as research concerns me, this vacuum leak should be AFTER the throttle body. But I still don't have a good idea where to start.

Again, the PFC says injector duty is about 30%. the idle is now at about 3750 instead of 4800 but still..

IRPerformance

iTrader: (41)

Are you sure the throttle body isn't stuck open? Maybe the cruise control cable? If you have a vacuum leak, spraying carb or brake cleaner in the vicinity will drop the rpms. Also, it would be a good idea to make sure all the adustments on the throttle body are correct. Chuck Westbrook's tuning notes have some good info on this. Don't touch the throttle body before rulling out the other stuff though.

Mitchocalypse

iTrader: (2)

I've now hooked a compressor to the air pump hose, plugged everything. There were a few couplers leaking but fixed them. Also the elbow was leaking but tightened. After that it seems to hold the pressure well. The oil dipstick popped off? Don't know what that means.. And when started burned a fair amount of oil. Probably from being so rich. I'll post pics of my throttle screws and maybe you could give me an idea if they're off. I couldn't find the tuning notes however. And I don't want to reset the map in the etc area since it has a map from rx7.com on it.

My injector duties HAVE gone down to about 28 though. Still way to high for idle.

Just wait for pics

Mitchocalypse

iTrader: (2)

Here's pictures:

Here is a good shot of the throttle cables. I'm not sure which is the cruise control one but the spring on the line in front is weak and has a bit of play. Meaning it can be rotated away from the thing it pushes on



Here's a shot of most of the screws on the front:


And another:



And heres the screw sort of behind the throttle body:



Please help guys, this thing needs to get going and I'm about stuck.
What should I be looking for inthe throttle lines?

RotoryDreamer

Sounds like a problem with the AWS solenoid being stuck and not letting it come off high idle. I'd start looking there as it seems the most likely to me.

RED 94 FD

anyone looking at the 2nd and third picture????????? look at the gap between the dashpot and the cam. Also look how tight the cruise cable looks. The way the pics look IMO the engine would be around 3-4k idle

diesel dakota

i'm a friend of his who is trying to help him get it running, much more mechanicly inclined then him but i know next to nothing about rotorys, i play with high hp diesels. anyways
vac leak isn't a problem for sure.
the cruise cable is tight but is not rotating anything on the throttle body and everything is against the stop screws.
we changed something on the power fc and it lowered the idle to about 2500 changed back and it went back up to about 3500. makes me think the problem might be in the tune. but the only problem with that idea is that it would idle normal with the stock ecu and it didn't it still idle at 3500.

also checked out the fuel pump and i seriously doubt its the problem,
running out of ideas we also put in a new O2 sensor but i didn't expect that to help and it didn't


Where is the aws solinoid located?

edit
also at no throttle our tps voltage was about .2 volts higher than in a picture that my friend found online, is it regular for their to be a little variance between different cars and is .2 volts enough to mess with the power fc?

RED 94 FD

those pics that are posted have the throttle cam opened enough to make 4k rpms. The dashpot which is the white button looking thing should not only be touching that cam but pressed in. very clear in the third pic.

jamie k

My 93 is doing the same thing but at around 2500 and 3000 rpms. Used some carb cleaner and found that my lower intake is leaking when sprayed around it. The rpms went way down.

CloudPump

iTrader: (2)

AWS does not apply as this is a JDM car. No AWS on JDM's.

-Geoff