time to rebuild :D progress updated
05-20-07, 06:04 PM
#1
time to rebuild :D progress updated
my first rebuild / big project on the fd. after taking 2 months getting a dp on, i had 2 good weeks with the fd before the coolant seals gave out. the leak isn't too bad but there are other problems as well like leaky exhaust gaskets etc.. i did consider block weld for as a temporary solution but i've decided to do it the right way. this summer will be the last time in a while i'll have enough time to finish a project like this and hope i to get it done in time
clearing out the engine bay, its amazing how many times have had to do this the past 2 years lol. most fd owners must be able to do this in their sleep. strutbar and front air ducting already removed
almost ready to pull, the transmission is coming out with it, a/c and powersteering lines etc still have to go but i haven't figured them out yet
box of fun, nuts and bolts in labelled zip-locked bags
clearing out the engine bay, its amazing how many times have had to do this the past 2 years lol. most fd owners must be able to do this in their sleep. strutbar and front air ducting already removed
almost ready to pull, the transmission is coming out with it, a/c and powersteering lines etc still have to go but i haven't figured them out yet
box of fun, nuts and bolts in labelled zip-locked bags
Last edited by sevensix; 05-20-07 at 06:23 PM.
05-20-07, 06:17 PM
#2
fuilds
motor oil ~4.5quarts, coolant 2 gallons, 1 each from radiator, 1 from block. ~.6 gal of tranny fuild <---- this stuff doesn't smell good at all
picked up a new 2 ton engine hoist at kragen today. its put together pretty well and costs $107 after tax. plus it doesn't come with a leveler or chains. i'll be going to homedepot for two 6-7 foot chains.
the guy working at kragen gave me a look and told me theres no way it was going to fit when he saw the car i was taking it home in.. lol
almost forgot to drain the block, it gets everywhere and makes a good mess on the floor too
didn't know the tranny plugs had magnets. makes me wonder about the magnetic ones for the oil pan
picked up a new 2 ton engine hoist at kragen today. its put together pretty well and costs $107 after tax. plus it doesn't come with a leveler or chains. i'll be going to homedepot for two 6-7 foot chains.
the guy working at kragen gave me a look and told me theres no way it was going to fit when he saw the car i was taking it home in.. lol
almost forgot to drain the block, it gets everywhere and makes a good mess on the floor too
didn't know the tranny plugs had magnets. makes me wonder about the magnetic ones for the oil pan
05-23-07, 05:42 PM
#3
i can't get the ppf nuts/bolts off. whats the best way to approach this. already tried pb blaster but i don't think thats the problem. i have a 12" breaker bar do i just need a longer one?
1 aluminum crossbar near the cat, cat air pipe, 2 motor mount nuts have been removed. did i miss anything that i need to under the car?
1 aluminum crossbar near the cat, cat air pipe, 2 motor mount nuts have been removed. did i miss anything that i need to under the car?
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05-24-07, 01:15 AM
#8
small detour, i received an unexpected response to a pm i wrote a few month ago when trying to diagnose my engine problems. confused.. https://www.rx7club.com/3rd-generation-specific-1993-2002-16/coolant-problem-help-help-114514/
05-24-07, 07:27 PM
#10
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coming along pretty good...i'll be pulling mine this winter...got my prelude apart right now...putting it back together ...and going to try to enjoy both cars for summer....
good luck
brad
good luck
brad
05-24-07, 11:48 PM
#13
thanks for the support, i got the engine and tranny pulled today 
learned a few things in the process.
don't get chains that are too long or the hoist can't pull it up high enough to clear the bumper
don't work on a incline or the hoist will be pulled into the front bumper of the car ()
i don't know how i would have done it without the load leveler bar. if u're doing the job GET IT. i got one for 29.99 at harbor freight and its TOTALLY worth it, it comes with 2 chains so the cost is offset a bit by that. i used the 1300lb quick links, 2.99 for pack of 3, which were used to secure the chains to the UIM and front pull positions. btw clip these abouth 1/2way up the length of the chains.
if u have the stock intercooler duct, no need to remove it, it will clear it okay.
the easiest way to get the rubber plug/wiring harness out of the firewall is the push it from the inside of the cabin. i used the end of the tire iron for this, takes a good amount of force.
and watch out for the tranny and driveshaft after the nuts securing the ppf are removed, they may fall. i used jacks to prop them up, and the cat section too when i was removing it.
learned a few things in the process.don't get chains that are too long or the hoist can't pull it up high enough to clear the bumper
don't work on a incline or the hoist will be pulled into the front bumper of the car (
)i don't know how i would have done it without the load leveler bar. if u're doing the job GET IT. i got one for 29.99 at harbor freight and its TOTALLY worth it, it comes with 2 chains so the cost is offset a bit by that. i used the 1300lb quick links, 2.99 for pack of 3, which were used to secure the chains to the UIM and front pull positions. btw clip these abouth 1/2way up the length of the chains.
if u have the stock intercooler duct, no need to remove it, it will clear it okay.
the easiest way to get the rubber plug/wiring harness out of the firewall is the push it from the inside of the cabin. i used the end of the tire iron for this, takes a good amount of force.
and watch out for the tranny and driveshaft after the nuts securing the ppf are removed, they may fall. i used jacks to prop them up, and the cat section too when i was removing it.
PM box is FULL!
06-04-07, 06:33 PM
#20
^ haha. more notes..
flywheel nut removal.. i went to sears for a few tools
2 1/8 inch socket, 3/4 inch drive- $27.99
adapter 1/2" --> 3/4" - $6.99
17 or 18" breaker bar --> $27.99
locked the flywheel using the short chain and bolt method
foot on UIM to keep the engine from flipping over whille i torqued the breaker bar, came off a lot easier than i thought it would, tools went flying to the floor though so the using hand tools def. works
counterweight was pretty simple.. used a regular hammer to and hit it 5-6 times hard @ the flat surface. i removed the flywheel from it before doing this.
overall i thought the flywheel removal would be a lot tougher from other experiences. glad its over with and glad it wasn't as much of a chore as i was expecting.
flywheel nut removal.. i went to sears for a few tools
2 1/8 inch socket, 3/4 inch drive- $27.99
adapter 1/2" --> 3/4" - $6.99
17 or 18" breaker bar --> $27.99
locked the flywheel using the short chain and bolt method
foot on UIM to keep the engine from flipping over whille i torqued the breaker bar, came off a lot easier than i thought it would, tools went flying to the floor though
so the using hand tools def. workscounterweight was pretty simple.. used a regular hammer to and hit it 5-6 times hard @ the flat surface. i removed the flywheel from it before doing this.
overall i thought the flywheel removal would be a lot tougher from other experiences. glad its over with and glad it wasn't as much of a chore as i was expecting.
07-04-07, 01:21 PM
#21
Here are some writeups to help you/others:
http://www.rotaryresurrection.com/3r...eng_remov.html
http://www.rotaryresurrection.com/3r..._teardown.html
http://www.rotaryresurrection.com/3r...eng_remov.html
http://www.rotaryresurrection.com/3r..._teardown.html
07-06-07, 12:53 PM
#23
thanks stevebtw anyone rebuilding that is looking for a engine stand.. the harbor freight 750lb one works great($30 now, usually $40). just need to enlarge one of the holes on the mountingplate with a dremel/drill so they line up to 2 studs on the front plate of the engine.
What else are you planning on doing with the engine out?
