Time for a new water pump & gasket?
#2
Racecar - Formula 2000
I replied to your PM. IIRC the WP and gasket from Ray weren't too bad, ~$50-60.
Dave
Dave
#3
Avoiding the tree lane
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what if i snugged that bolt up a little? even worth trying? the engine is reman so i dunno what happened when they installed the WP at the dealership (40k ago)
i think there's always been a miniscule leak here though as previous owner had noticed filler neck coolant being a couple inches low when left cold too
i think there's always been a miniscule leak here though as previous owner had noticed filler neck coolant being a couple inches low when left cold too
#4
Racecar - Formula 2000
Snugging the bolt probably won't fix it. If it's leaking from the gasket, there is corrosion or the gasket is shot, neither of which will be fixed by tightening the bolt.
Dave
Dave
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#9
Avoiding the tree lane
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Yeah just ordered, pump/gasket/tstat & gasket are ~$110 shipped with $25 core on the pump
i have the FSM and it doesn't look TOO hard to change, but does anyone have a write up for reference?
i have the FSM and it doesn't look TOO hard to change, but does anyone have a write up for reference?
#10
In the burnout box...
iTrader: (32)
Its pretty much self explanatory... drail coolant, remove anything thats in your way. Some people do not put sealant on, yet i do. Just get the gray permatex and add a very small amount around the gaskets (if he gave you the one for the back of the water pump housing). Use a torque wrench.
Take your time refilling the coolant back in. Burping can take a while... its nice if you can get a friend on a creeper below you and pumping the lower rad line when you bump the upper and fill. Once you get all the air out start the car and monitor for leaks and coolant temp. Let the car run for 5 mins, turn off, use a rag with caution when taking of coolant cap. Refill and burp if needed. Check the coolant every once and a while.
Take your time refilling the coolant back in. Burping can take a while... its nice if you can get a friend on a creeper below you and pumping the lower rad line when you bump the upper and fill. Once you get all the air out start the car and monitor for leaks and coolant temp. Let the car run for 5 mins, turn off, use a rag with caution when taking of coolant cap. Refill and burp if needed. Check the coolant every once and a while.
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Avoiding the tree lane
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yeah i'll try to be halfway clean, reason i was alerted to the problem was i've been noticing the level in the filler neck to be a few inches below the top, combined with a very faint smell of fresh coolant from the engine bay, the air leak must be allowing the top portion to drain down some while off, looked down and saw what's in the picture... looks like with the airpump/alternator/ic out of the way replacement won't be too tough, any other stuff i should look at while i'm doing this?
#17
Racecar - Formula 2000
When I talked to Ray at Malloy, he suggested a thin film of RTV on both sides of the main-housing-to-block gasket. If you get the OE type of gasket (smooth and sort of a pink color, IIRC) for the impeller housing, and both of the castings are smooth and not pitted, this one does not need sealant, IMO. If you get a grey, cardboard-appearing gasket, this one will need sealant.
Dave
Dave
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