Test Drove an RX7
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Test Drove an RX7
I currently have a 3000GTSL and I have been considering buying an RX-7 3rd Gen for a few weeks now. Yesterday, I skipped work and went to test drive an RX-7 at a Dealer. It was a 95 R-1 93k miles on it and looked in good shape. There had only been one owner to the car who even kept the ad that came in the paper for a 95 RX7 and his sales sticker and everything. Anyways, I test drove that car and WOW! I heard that mazda's shifter is good but god is was great. It took off better then my 3000GT or my previous MR2. I loved the car and the handling. The price tag on the car was $18.789 for a 95 RX-7 with 93k miles and they were firm on the price even when I said I'll pay in cash. I thought that was a little high. What do you guys think? One more thing is the dealer ship was willing to give me a extended warrenty for 3 years for the car.
Well now I am trying to sell my 3000GT and going to wait till Sep or something before I buy a 93-94 RX-7. I am going to be moving to FL so I'll wait till then.
Do you guys suggest that I buy my RX-7 from the dealer? now I heard that is not a good idea to let the dealers work on the RX-7's. So would an extended warrenty be worth it?
Is there a way I can find out how much would a 93 RX-7 touring or R1 would cost me with less miles like 40k?
Well now I am trying to sell my 3000GT and going to wait till Sep or something before I buy a 93-94 RX-7. I am going to be moving to FL so I'll wait till then.
Do you guys suggest that I buy my RX-7 from the dealer? now I heard that is not a good idea to let the dealers work on the RX-7's. So would an extended warrenty be worth it?
Is there a way I can find out how much would a 93 RX-7 touring or R1 would cost me with less miles like 40k?
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I'd pick a good one up for between $12,000 and $14,000. a 93 or 94 with < 100,000 miles. The cash you save can be used for reliability mods. It's likely with 40,000 miles your going to need a new engine soon regardless.
Unless your trying to "preserve" or collect the car, I go the route described above.
Unless your trying to "preserve" or collect the car, I go the route described above.
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check www.autotrader.com and keep in mind those are asking prices.
Even though 95 R2s are scarce (the 93 R1 was called an R2 in 94-95), they aren't worth THAT much. I might pay close to that amount only if the engine was just replaced and the interior and exterior are perfect. If the warranty is included in that price maybe I would pay that amt. Read that extended warranty very carefully and make sure it will cover engine replacement. Make sure it allows you to get the work done by someone other than a dealer. If you plan on doing any mods to the car, you can probably forget the warranty idea.
Dave
Even though 95 R2s are scarce (the 93 R1 was called an R2 in 94-95), they aren't worth THAT much. I might pay close to that amount only if the engine was just replaced and the interior and exterior are perfect. If the warranty is included in that price maybe I would pay that amt. Read that extended warranty very carefully and make sure it will cover engine replacement. Make sure it allows you to get the work done by someone other than a dealer. If you plan on doing any mods to the car, you can probably forget the warranty idea.
Dave
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You guys don't have a clue. A warranty can be a wonderful thing. It can cover nearly everything on the car - - I have had all my suspension bushings replaced, power antenna motor, oil metering pump, etc. None of these systems have anything to do with modifications to the car.
For that price, the car should be in very good condition. No poorly repaired prior accident damage, good paint, clean interior, etc. The engines don't typically last much longer than the mileage that's on it, so that is also a bargaining point. The key to getting them to come down on price is to be willing to really walk away.
Also, the language of the warranty contract is everything, as to how useful it will be. Look out for the deductible (per visit or per repair), actual covered items, who can work on the car, etc.
For that price, the car should be in very good condition. No poorly repaired prior accident damage, good paint, clean interior, etc. The engines don't typically last much longer than the mileage that's on it, so that is also a bargaining point. The key to getting them to come down on price is to be willing to really walk away.
Also, the language of the warranty contract is everything, as to how useful it will be. Look out for the deductible (per visit or per repair), actual covered items, who can work on the car, etc.
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Originally posted by rynberg
You guys don't have a clue. A warranty can be a wonderful thing. It can cover nearly everything on the car.
You guys don't have a clue. A warranty can be a wonderful thing. It can cover nearly everything on the car.
If you are still considering a warranty, do a search for it under this 3rd gen section and you can see the problems and horror stories first hand.
Last edited by Scrapiron7; 03-09-04 at 12:03 PM.
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You got burned because you didn't know better. The warranty company HAS to prove that your modifications affect the damaged part. If they can't, they are liable for replacing the part.
It's called the Magnuson-Moss Warranty Act, look it up on google.
All that said, Continental has known to have near fraudulent warranty service, IMO.
It's called the Magnuson-Moss Warranty Act, look it up on google.
All that said, Continental has known to have near fraudulent warranty service, IMO.
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Originally posted by rynberg
You got burned because you didn't know better. The warranty company HAS to prove that your modifications affect the damaged part. If they can't, they are liable for replacing the part.
It's called the Magnuson-Moss Warranty Act, look it up on google.
All that said, Continental has known to have near fraudulent warranty service, IMO.
You got burned because you didn't know better. The warranty company HAS to prove that your modifications affect the damaged part. If they can't, they are liable for replacing the part.
It's called the Magnuson-Moss Warranty Act, look it up on google.
All that said, Continental has known to have near fraudulent warranty service, IMO.
Their arguement was since my car has mods it can't be covered period. That's why the entire warranty was void.
Last edited by Scrapiron7; 03-09-04 at 12:24 PM.
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Originally posted by bricke
In this case, I'm sure my mods contributed to my motor failure, so it wouldn't have been hard to prove. However, I did fight them and got about 80% of what I paid for the warranty back from the company.
Their arguement was since my car has mods it can't be covered period. That's why the entire warranty was void.
In this case, I'm sure my mods contributed to my motor failure, so it wouldn't have been hard to prove. However, I did fight them and got about 80% of what I paid for the warranty back from the company.
Their arguement was since my car has mods it can't be covered period. That's why the entire warranty was void.
They also have no right to cancel your policy unless they refund your money, minus the time you had the warranty, which it sounds like they did. So what was the problem? Sounds like they followed their legal rights, to me.
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Originally posted by rynberg
Well, yes, if you had mods and tried to get the engine covered, then they shouldn't be liable for replacing it.
They also have no right to cancel your policy unless they refund your money, minus the time you had the warranty, which it sounds like they did. So what was the problem? Sounds like they followed their legal rights, to me.
Well, yes, if you had mods and tried to get the engine covered, then they shouldn't be liable for replacing it.
They also have no right to cancel your policy unless they refund your money, minus the time you had the warranty, which it sounds like they did. So what was the problem? Sounds like they followed their legal rights, to me.
#13
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That price seems high to me.
I bought my first 7 (93) for $17.5K with 36K on the odometer back in 98. (but this was a steal)
I bought my second (94) FD for $21.5k with 56k on the odometer (the car was flawless) but at least it came $2000 rims, brand new pirellis and a service contract, so it was justified. This was also in 98. Didn't take me long to total the first one .
About the service contract: Keep it stock. It's not worth the hassle TRUST ME. Also negotiate to see if they can bump the contract from 3 to 5 years. Then and only then I would buy it for that price. There are many things that are gonna go wrong after 98k miles. Engine, turbos, 5th gear syncro, yada yada...The parts for this cars are extremely expensive, so it would be your best interest to get that warranty.
I bet you that my service contract was counting the days till my warranty expired and if you buy this car they will be too.
I bought my first 7 (93) for $17.5K with 36K on the odometer back in 98. (but this was a steal)
I bought my second (94) FD for $21.5k with 56k on the odometer (the car was flawless) but at least it came $2000 rims, brand new pirellis and a service contract, so it was justified. This was also in 98. Didn't take me long to total the first one .
About the service contract: Keep it stock. It's not worth the hassle TRUST ME. Also negotiate to see if they can bump the contract from 3 to 5 years. Then and only then I would buy it for that price. There are many things that are gonna go wrong after 98k miles. Engine, turbos, 5th gear syncro, yada yada...The parts for this cars are extremely expensive, so it would be your best interest to get that warranty.
I bet you that my service contract was counting the days till my warranty expired and if you buy this car they will be too.
Last edited by Montego; 03-09-04 at 01:43 PM.
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Thanks for the replys guys. I did mention to them that the engines on the RX-7 doesn't last long before you have to replace or rebuild. They told me "NO not on a car like that which has only stock parts and no mods. Only mods do that to a car and if you race it."
Now I really had no intention of buying the car when I walked in there. I just wanted to test drive an RX7 and see how it feels. Again I loved it but the only way I would pay that much is if its under 40k miles. I am still going to try to save up more money and invest in a well taken care of RX7. I was a R1 or a Touring but Twin Turbo mostly stock except for reliablity mods. I made many modifications to my 3000GT but really don't want to do that to the RX7 YET.
Now got a question and I am sure you guys get these kinds of questions a lot. Is it better to get an RX-7 fixer upper or go get a running RX-7 for more money? Some times when I think about how much I am going to be paying and that amount of time I will have to wait till get the car I makes me think I rather build one up. Plus to buy one for that much money and have it brake down on you is crazy. The longest it will take me to buy a good RX7 will be till September because I want to pay all cash for it if possible. Advice or suggestions?
Now I really had no intention of buying the car when I walked in there. I just wanted to test drive an RX7 and see how it feels. Again I loved it but the only way I would pay that much is if its under 40k miles. I am still going to try to save up more money and invest in a well taken care of RX7. I was a R1 or a Touring but Twin Turbo mostly stock except for reliablity mods. I made many modifications to my 3000GT but really don't want to do that to the RX7 YET.
Now got a question and I am sure you guys get these kinds of questions a lot. Is it better to get an RX-7 fixer upper or go get a running RX-7 for more money? Some times when I think about how much I am going to be paying and that amount of time I will have to wait till get the car I makes me think I rather build one up. Plus to buy one for that much money and have it brake down on you is crazy. The longest it will take me to buy a good RX7 will be till September because I want to pay all cash for it if possible. Advice or suggestions?
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The aftermarket warranty I had on my car paid for over 15g's in repairs in 3 years
New engine, rebuilt tranny, rebuilt turbos, new cooling system, most of the rear suspension was replaced and ALL the labor involved.
Western General is the ****.
New engine, rebuilt tranny, rebuilt turbos, new cooling system, most of the rear suspension was replaced and ALL the labor involved.
Western General is the ****.
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