Is that slow for automatic?
02-13-04, 04:54 PM
#1
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Is that slow for automatic?
I ran 15.4 1/4 mile with my car and 102mph
It was completely stock at that time.
It seems slow to me that's why I'm in process of changing it to 5speed.
Does it seems slow for 15.4 auto would it beat mustang gt stock 5 seed ?
stang sucks!!!!
It was completely stock at that time.
It seems slow to me that's why I'm in process of changing it to 5speed.
Does it seems slow for 15.4 auto would it beat mustang gt stock 5 seed ?
stang sucks!!!!
02-13-04, 05:28 PM
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How did you launch??
Did you use the "hold" function?
Stock, the FD is capable of mid-low 14 secs with an auto tranny. I am going to take mine out soon to see what I can run. Its stock except for catback.
Did you use the "hold" function?
Stock, the FD is capable of mid-low 14 secs with an auto tranny. I am going to take mine out soon to see what I can run. Its stock except for catback.
02-13-04, 07:08 PM
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I don't know much about the automatic FD, but I ran a 13.8 in a stock 5 speed. I can't imagine you would be almost two seconds off. I think people have gotten as low as 13.5's in a stock 5 speed, so I think you could still do better.
By the way... your trap speed is higher then my 13.8, which was at only 100mph.
By the way... your trap speed is higher then my 13.8, which was at only 100mph.
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02-13-04, 11:29 PM
#12
5yr member, joined 2001
This is a copy & paste from a post I made awhile back.
First off, work on your launch technique. Intuitively, one will think, "It's AUTOMATIC! All I do is stomp the accelerator, right?" Wrong. Ever notice that the car has almost no power when you stomp the accelerator? If you gradually depress the accelerater, then you will get a much faster launch. A great AT (Automatic Transmission) launch requires both practice and know-how. Listen up.
This is just about the fastest way to launch the AT FD.
- Put the transmission selector in the "L" position.
- Activate the Hold feature by pressing the Hold button on the top of the transmission selector.
- Press FIRMLY on the brake with your left foot.
- Carefully depress the accelerator with your right foot until you just about reach your stall speed. Your stall speed will likely be at or above 2500rpm. If you don't know what the stall speed is, scroll down to the end of this post. You are now doing what is called "Brake Torquing". You will hear creaking sounds as your revs increase. This is normal. Don't do this for longer peroids of time (1 minute MAX!), because you are drastically raising the temperature of your transmission fluid.
- When the light turns green, release the break, but DO NOT stomp the accelerator. GRADUALLY depress the accelerator as your car gains speed. You should not reach WOT (Wide Open Throttle - accelerator fully depressed) until about 5000rpm.
- At 6500rpm press the Hold button again to disable the hold feature and allow the car to shift automatically.
--- STALL SPEED ---
This is the maximum rate at which your TC (Torque Converter) can spin while your brakes are locked. The stock AT FD TC usually stalls the engine anywhere between 2500rpm and 3000rpm. Stall speed is affected by temperature, TC design, TC condition, ECU, and probably other stuff. You can find your stall speed by brake torquing until the engine seems like it is struggling to run (i.e. it seems like the engine is on the brink of stalling). Try not to stall your engine.
First off, work on your launch technique. Intuitively, one will think, "It's AUTOMATIC! All I do is stomp the accelerator, right?" Wrong. Ever notice that the car has almost no power when you stomp the accelerator? If you gradually depress the accelerater, then you will get a much faster launch. A great AT (Automatic Transmission) launch requires both practice and know-how. Listen up.
This is just about the fastest way to launch the AT FD.
- Put the transmission selector in the "L" position.
- Activate the Hold feature by pressing the Hold button on the top of the transmission selector.
- Press FIRMLY on the brake with your left foot.
- Carefully depress the accelerator with your right foot until you just about reach your stall speed. Your stall speed will likely be at or above 2500rpm. If you don't know what the stall speed is, scroll down to the end of this post. You are now doing what is called "Brake Torquing". You will hear creaking sounds as your revs increase. This is normal. Don't do this for longer peroids of time (1 minute MAX!), because you are drastically raising the temperature of your transmission fluid.
- When the light turns green, release the break, but DO NOT stomp the accelerator. GRADUALLY depress the accelerator as your car gains speed. You should not reach WOT (Wide Open Throttle - accelerator fully depressed) until about 5000rpm.
- At 6500rpm press the Hold button again to disable the hold feature and allow the car to shift automatically.
--- STALL SPEED ---
This is the maximum rate at which your TC (Torque Converter) can spin while your brakes are locked. The stock AT FD TC usually stalls the engine anywhere between 2500rpm and 3000rpm. Stall speed is affected by temperature, TC design, TC condition, ECU, and probably other stuff. You can find your stall speed by brake torquing until the engine seems like it is struggling to run (i.e. it seems like the engine is on the brink of stalling). Try not to stall your engine.
02-15-04, 01:42 AM
#14
Originally posted by SkywarpR
By the way... your trap speed is higher then my 13.8, which was at only 100mph.
By the way... your trap speed is higher then my 13.8, which was at only 100mph.
horrible traction maybe?
awesomw trap speed though
02-15-04, 10:49 AM
#16
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I can believe the trap speed. These automatic cars pull HARD, maybe even harder than a 5 speed, especially in the 80 -120 mph range.
The thrust is SO linear with the turbos boosting unabated without the nuisance of shifting.
It's true.
The thrust is SO linear with the turbos boosting unabated without the nuisance of shifting.
It's true.
02-15-04, 11:28 AM
#17
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i made 14.7 @96 mph.mods intake and full exhaust .at 9psi of boost and no brake boosting..first time i get tracked i made 15.3the put the catback and made 14.7 with 2.5's 60 foot time .
04-05-04, 12:54 AM
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yeah well i dont have a hold button anymore the idiot before meremoved the dam thing. Radomly the hold feature will be one when i start the car and work but once i turn it off and back on it shuts off. the feature turns on once in 20 start ups. how do you know where the button or wire maybe and how can i reconnect it to a seperate button since i dont have the hold button on the shifter anymore. O the last thing my 7 which has no prim cat and a catback intake and msd gets murdered by almost every honda out there. I know its real shame but i cant figure out whats wrong. I just had the motor rebuilt 3000 miles ago. Im sure there is a boost leak since my boost gueage reads all funny. The boost jumps up then slowly returns to 0. Also my blowoff valve lets off when im at 10hg is this normal. my motor is street ported and i have no ecu but the mechanic who only works on 7's said i would be ok but no more mods till i get an ecu. maybe my waste gate is fucked up or maybe my secondary turbo is because the boost drain is around 4500 rpm. Any help woiuld be great i need to start kicking some honda *** at the races.
04-05-04, 11:53 AM
#20
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Originally posted by Rex'sRX
I can believe the trap speed. These automatic cars pull HARD, maybe even harder than a 5 speed, especially in the 80 -120 mph range.
The thrust is SO linear with the turbos boosting unabated without the nuisance of shifting.
It's true.
I can believe the trap speed. These automatic cars pull HARD, maybe even harder than a 5 speed, especially in the 80 -120 mph range.
The thrust is SO linear with the turbos boosting unabated without the nuisance of shifting.
It's true.
I think that might have something to do with the gears. Autos have the 3.90 gears which is more top end, right...
04-05-04, 12:04 PM
#21
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Re: Is that slow for automatic?
It seems slow to me that's why I'm in process of changing it to 5speed.
I had mine changed from auto to 5spd and it was not cheap. It ran me about $5,500. Also the guy that was doing the convertion said it was not easy and it took alot more time than he thought it would. But I'm very happy with the way it turned out. I still have 3.90 gears so it seems to me that I get a slower start off the line but it pulls hard at high rpm's.
I had mine changed from auto to 5spd and it was not cheap. It ran me about $5,500. Also the guy that was doing the convertion said it was not easy and it took alot more time than he thought it would. But I'm very happy with the way it turned out. I still have 3.90 gears so it seems to me that I get a slower start off the line but it pulls hard at high rpm's.
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