Wannabe10s

Hey guys,

Sorry if this has been covered but i couldn't find anything.
Just hoping to find out major differences between series 6 (92-94) and series 8 (98-02) RX-7s.
I drive a Nissan Cefiro atm, but am so hooked on getting an FD its not funny!
So, Are there ny engine/driveline differences? Or, if i get a series 6, put update front bar and tail lights or even aftermarket to bring the looks up to date.
Suspension iwise, i would get Coil overs, but just worried the earlier models may have weaker transmission etc.
So a low kilometer series 6 would be just as good as a series 8???
I plan on doing bolt on Mods to get into the low 12sec 1/4s, reliably.
Here in Australia, the earlier models can save me AU$10,000 or more.

Any opinions much appreciated

Cheers
Jay

Wannabe10s

P.s, this will be a Japanese import model.

Cheers
Jay

ORX705

have a read through the first post in this thread (you'll have to be a memeber to view)

http://ausrotary.dntinternet.com/for...=44725&start=0

Wannabe10s

damn, it only lets you sign up with a registered email, i only got a Hotmail one

ORX705

http://www.rx7.net.nz/newrx7.htm


Daioni wrote:
A. 'series 8' is actually two production runs, version V (98-00) and version VI (00-02). They were never available in australian showrooms, and because they officially imported 'series 7' up to 98 - the regulations = no series 8 that were made in 98 or early 99 (IIRC).

Version V

top spec: RS (280ps)

sports spec: R (iirc, 280ps)

base models: RB and RB s-package (optioned up RB)


Version VI

special editions: Spirit-R (a, b and c), RZ (consider these: ultimate spec) (the c is not 280ps)

top spec: RS (280ps)

sports spec: R, R Bathurst R (both 280ps)

base spec: RB, RB s-package


The 280ps cars have significant differences to the others - more power (boost, upgraded turbo, bigger exhaust), better brakes, different suspension setups (differs from model to model), 4.3 diff, and will have all the goodies (such as adjustable spoiler, twin oil coolers, strut brace, better seats, etc). The RZ and spirit-r cars have even more goodies.

All cars *should* have a white sticker in the drivers' side door area, which will list what model it is.

The 2-seaters are the RZ and Spirit-R type-a.

For more detailed info go here: http://www.rx7.net.nz/newrx7.htm

Version 5 99/00(Black gauges, Nardi Steering wheel, twin airbags, engine, computer, turbo, cooling and body refinements over Series7/Version IV)

265PS:
RB (Auto 255PS) Base Model.
RB S-Package Rear spoiler, ZR rated tyres, foglamps, suede seats.

280PS: [abraidable seal turbo]
Type-R 16" wheels, ZR rated tyres, 2 oil coolers, front strut brace, dark tint rear glass, suede seats.
Type-RS Same as Type R except 17" wheels, Bilstein suspension, larger brakes, foglamps, 4.3 diff.

Version 6 01/02 (White gauges-chrome rings, flying M Nardi steering wheel, electronically controlled braking distribution, clutch interlock mechanism, rubber knit fabric. 2002 models also have 16bit ABS computer)

265 PS:
RB (Auto 255ps) Base Model.
RB S-Package Rear spoiler, ZR rated tyres, foglamps, suede seats.

280 PS: [abraidable seal turbo]
Type-R 16" wheels, ZR rated tyres, 2 oil coolers, front strut brace, dark tint rear glass, lux suede seats.
R Bathurst-R 500 Limited edition with decals. Same as Type R with adjustable shocks, carbonfibre gearknob/handbrake/dash surrounds and door pieces. Available in Pure White, Innocent Blue Mica and Sunburst Yellow.
Type-R Bathurst Same as Type R with foglamps, adjustable shocks.
Type-RS Same as Type R except 17" wheels, Bilstein suspension, larger brakes, foglamps, 4.3 diff
Type-RZ 175 Limited edition with decals. Same is type RS except Snow White pearl mica only, red Recaro's (2 seat), red stitch Nardi wheel, gear **** and handbrake, dark grey 17" BBS wheels, driver knee pad & passenger foot brace.

Spirit-R 1500 Same as Type R with 17" BBS wheels, red brake calipers and strut brace, red stitch on wheel, gear **** and hand brake, special soft coating on interior trim, Spirit R badging on body, tacho, and engine bay. In addition to the other shades new colour Titanium Grey Metallic for Spirit only.
Type A Red Recaro's (2 seat), uprated Bilsteins, stainless mesh brake hoses, drilled disks, gunmetal grey BBS's, driver knee pad & passenger foot brace.
Type B Red leather seats, uprated Bilsteins, stainless mesh brake hoses, drilled disks
Type C 255ps auto, red leather seats

Wannabe10s

Wow, thanks heaps ORX705.
So looks like i want an RS??
From that i got all the 280ps models have the same engine/driveline?

Cheers
Jay

Wannabe10s

In you guys opinions, whats more worth while. saving money, a fair bit and getting a, say, 92 model. Or, wait (god forbid :P ) and save for a Series 8 RS model with 206kW and all the other goodies.
P.s. the 92 or whatever moel will still on,y have <100,000klms (60,,000miles) on it

Cheers
Jay

d1rx7

get a newer one if you can

RX7LINK

iTrader: (3)

+1

get the newest one you can afford

RX7LINK

iTrader: (3)

*sorry, doublepost*

Wannabe10s

yeah i figured. What if say i was going to get the engine built straight away either way? With a big single kit etc? We have awesome rotary workshops over here (world record holders actually ) Ane the prices are not that outrageous... one place does a 10sec engine package incl fuel syst etc for AU$8k. ( i can installit myself.

Cheers
Jay

d1rx7

if you are going to be replaceing/doing up the whole car i say get an older one. they all look the same anyway.

ORX705

i agree with d1rx7

The later FDs like the spirit r is such a fantastic car to drive as is and would be such a shame to ruin it with a single turbo. but thats a difefrent arguement altogether :P

FDNewbie

iTrader: (10)

Ok so while we're in the foreign FD lingo, can anyone tell me what years the labels like "H4," "H8," "H10," "E-FD3S" and the like correspond to?

Wannabe10s

Ahh, so people that molest spirit r's and the like are scowled upon lol.

DaiOni

ramy, H = heisei (current emperor's reign). H1 = 1989. It's the Japanese dating system.

There are two FD3S chassis codes, E and GF. GF starts with version V.


to the OP, always buy the latest FD you can afford. Stay away from version I, local or import. That means anything built between 91 and mid-93 (best way to check is look at the VIN - for imports it will be FD3S-1#### (1 = version I, 2 = version II, etc - all the way to version VI, which is the second half of what australians call 'series 8').

get a viable email address and register for ausrotary - it'll be the best move you can do as a (potential) FD owner. Seriously - there are two FD resources I rely on (pretty much equally) - this place and ausrotary. You can't go wrong - and the team at ausrotary (inc me, as per above) have written a few guides that will be exactly what you are looking for.

FDNewbie

iTrader: (10)

DaiOni, I dunno how I missed this post of yours and JUST saw it now. Thanks a lot I was always left scratching my head wondering what on earth those meant haha. So is H10 a 1999?

DaiOni

H10 = 98