FdRx728

iTrader: (3)

December I started my project. Here is the list of things that hae changed since I last started the car in Nov. Removed UIM and had Cerma-coated. They removed the butterfly valves in the Uim. I blocked off the AWS with a block off plate. I installed a standalone wideband O2 sensor in the midpipe. It is not connected to Ecu by any means. (Wideband is AEM from rx7store). Now it reads my AFR is 10.0-10.5. I installed a Greddy FMIC. And finally a koyo Radiator. Now Everything has been done by the book. Like i said earlier it is running round 10.0. I let the car idle for about a minute and then shut it off. It did not take long to turn over. Could any one please tell me what could be my problem.

Thanks
Jeremy

Mahjik

iTrader: (1)

What ECU are you using? Stock?

rynberg

Well, you have to tune the AEM ecu! It doesn't come with a decent base map like the PFC does, so you'll need to spend some time getting it usable.

EDIT -- Never mind, read your post wrong. Are you SURE the wideband is reading correctly? Does the car bog or stumble at idle or run smooth? What is your AFR under cruise and WOT?

GregFD3S

yes, I would like to know if you have a stock ECU.

when you installed your wideband, did you remove your stock o2 sensor, or did you leave it in?

Monkman33

iTrader: (28)

Airpump removed? Stock ECU?

FdRx728

iTrader: (3)

Stock ECU. I ordered a PFC from ramy GB and it should be here friday. I havent not taken the car out for a drive because I live MN and the road condtions are still not up to my liking. It does not stall out but yes it bogs pretty bad. I left the stock 02 in its plce and put the wideband in the midpipe. I am going back over to my garage tonight and will update possibly with a video. I hope this info will help.

Thanks
Jeremy

Mahjik

iTrader: (1)

If you have the stock ECU, stock ignition, stock fuel system and the car isn't driveable, then its something you did. Not to be mean, but if it worked before and it doesn't now.

Start by resetting the ECU. After that, start the car up and let it run for a minute or two. Next, check your ECU codes to see if you have anything stored.

The stock ECU keeps the car pretty rich, but if you are having bogging problems that's another issue. You should not install a PFC until you can fix this issue.

GregFD3S

agreed...

FdRx728

iTrader: (3)

Here I also forgot to add this. When I bought the car it had plenty of mods already. I dint know what was done to it. It came with a Down pipe and midpipe installed. SO i assume the previous owner did something to the ECU. Regardless i was just wondering if anyone else had similiar problem and what are the common causes. Where can i look. What is the best thing to do. Here are some videos I just shot Please let me know what you think.

First vid

Second

GregFD3S

thats one reason why you should never buy a previously modded car.

FdRx728

iTrader: (3)

Thats not the problem. I bought it from an impound lot and never got to speak to the previous owner.

Anyways can a vacuum leak cause this kind of idle? If so, does anyone know what hose to check? If not, what else could it be?

It use to pull a -18hg now it is only -10hg?


Thanks
Jeremy

rynberg

Listen to Mahjik, you screwed something up reinstalling the UIM or elsewhere. Start logically troubleshooting and go back over everything you did. It could be a lot of different things...from crimped MAP sensor line to leaking FPR, etc.

93ttwankel

Also let the car reach full operating temp then see what the readings are...

FdRx728

iTrader: (3)

It seemed to idle better after it was warmed up. I really think the car is not getting enough air. Is there a way to check?

Mahjik

iTrader: (1)

You need to recheck all your work.

FdRx728

iTrader: (3)

It went over to the garage today and the MAP sensor was unplugged. Wa-lah. The car runs very smooth. The only thing now is that it idles around 2000 until it warms up and then it drops down to 1500. Is that the TPS or something else?