BC-FD3S

iTrader: (2)

Well I've been in the process of doing a emissions delete and single turbo swap onto my '93. It's gotten to the point where the block is stripped and it's just a pain to work on the engine bending over. I have a little oil pan leak, and I need to replace the rear main seal... so I'm at the point now where I think it would be easiest to just remove the block. This way, I can also take a peek inside an make sure everything is still healthy (an maybe swap in some new teflon coolant seals).

At this point, the intake manifold, turbos, rats nest, coils etc. are all off.


I want just a quick direction on what the easiest way to go about removing the engine. Right now I'm thinking, unbolt the pressure plate VIA the inspection hole, unbolt the transmission, undo the radiator hoses, undo the power steering lines, remove the AIR-CON compressor (as to not have to let the gas out), and unbolt the engine mounts.

Am I missing anything? What is the easiest and quickest way to get this done. I would like to do it all in one day.

Also, is the block light enough to lift out by myself (I'm not small and lift a fair bit... how much does a stripped block weigh?) or would it be easier with two guys? I don't want to source a cherry picker.



Thanks!

killahrx7

i've been told one or two guys can lift it out but it never worked for me (not strong enough). engine removal process sounds ok to me.

catch-22

iTrader: (2)

me and another guy lifted my engine, no trans out of the back of my truck bed but lifting out of the car, i dont see that happening. get a lift.

BC-FD3S

iTrader: (2)

ok, looks like I'll try to find a lift to borrow.

as for the things to do before taking it out, looks like I have it all listed?




one other thing, I know people recommend to have the adapter plate for the engine stand but temporarily is it OK to just run the 2 bolts that line up?

G's 3rd Gen

iTrader: (11)

Unplug the engine harness from the ecu and pull it through the passenger side of the engine bay.

BC-FD3S

iTrader: (2)

ahh, yes the harness. forgot about that part.

catch-22

iTrader: (2)

And be really careful with the connectors because there most likely really dried and crispy and you will break one most likely.

BC-FD3S

iTrader: (2)

so far none broke, but a few of the wires cracked and are pretty crispy. I'm going to be doing the single turbo modification to the harness.

no_more_rice

we need a single turbo wiring harness group buy, somebody make it happen

Sgtblue

iTrader: (16)

*Personally, I like pulling the motors w/o the transmission. But why not just disconnect the clutch instead of unbolting the pressure plate from the FW?
*Even w/o the transmission, you need a hoist IMO. Dropping a short block, or hurting yourself or someone else isn't worth it. But since you don't have the rear anchor-eye at the UIM, finding a place to attach the chain might take some ingenuity. Get/Rent one with a leveler if possible.
*PS and AC lines DO NOT have to be disconnected. Remove the PS pulley and you'll see three bolts that secure the pump to the large aluminum bracket. Remove those bolts and just secure the pump back out of the way. Same for the AC pump, it can stay behind in the bay. Note PS pump in upper right and AC at lower right in photo.
You also have to disconnect fuel lines and the large coolant line at the driver's side rear iron. Probably other stuff I'm just forgetting.

BC-FD3S

iTrader: (2)

Thanks for the info.

I figured it owuld be easier to unblot the Pplate instead of risking damage to the fingers. It's a brand new clutch and I would like it to stay useable.

As for the pumps, thats good info to know... it will keep thing uh, less messy I guess. No dripping fluids.

The fuel lines are already disconnected as are the coolant lines to the block.


looks like this will be easier than I thought!

BC-FD3S

iTrader: (2)

yes!

i am NOT looking forward to the task... I hate electrical work

FD3S-K

iTrader: (6)

Man I lived in Vancouver, I'd have way more FD buddies, I would've gave you a hand.

BC-FD3S

iTrader: (2)

what's the best place to unhook the oil coolers from... should I undo the big banjo bolts that go right to the block?

Sgtblue

iTrader: (16)

There's a coupling secured by a 'C' clip. It's pretty apparent. Pull the clip with a hook pick or similar tool and disconnect. I cover the ends with a baggy or rag and wire tie.

muibubbles

iTrader: (36)

+1

and honestly i think pulling the tranny might be easier in the long run... aligning the engine and tranny was a pita out of the car... cant imagine trying to wiggle and allign in the bay... (keep in mind it was my first time taking the engine out)

when i go single and phase 2 of my rebuild i will be taking the tranny out with the engine

BC-FD3S

iTrader: (2)

yes, a bit. I've basically got it ready to pull out. Just waiting on a picker. I had some issues with the PS pully breaking (the plasitc POS stock one) so it took a while to get it off to get to the bolts behind.

All I have left to do is undo the oil cooler lines and the engine mounts. tranny is unbolted as is the clutch.

Hopefully out sometime this week when I find a picker.