Blk 93

Has anyone replaced their oil metering pump teflon oil feed lines ?

One of mine broke off effortlessly right at the banjo fitting, where it probably gets warmest.
I was annoyed, but better to find out now rather than later I guess ...

I think I could get away with just removing the Banjo fitting compression clip and reusing the original line,
since I've only lost about 1/8" of teflon hose, but wondered if that clip is re-useable or where to get a new compression clip,
and what would be involved on the OMP end of the connection if I do replace the lines entirely.

Would the OMP pump need to be removed from the engine block ?

New nozzle banjo crush washers and OMP gasket would be required as well I'm guessing ?

Thanks for feedback from those who have done the job before.
I found new fitted lines offered on eBay, but none for 1993+ models.

Not interested in deleting the OMP altogether BTW.

Rikk

iTrader: (2)

Bryan at RotorSports Racing has SS braided lines, they are not too expensive either

DaleClark

iTrader: (55)

Get new OEM lines. They aren't that expensive, and new lines are VERY flexible and durable. Give them 100,000 miles and try and move them and they will break.

The stainless lines don't fit properly as they are not formed to the path the lines need to take.

Stainless lines -

- cost more
- aren't molded to shape
- are covered in abrasive stainless braid that can rub through hoses, wiring, etc.
- aren't proven to last longer over time, they may be broken and terrible also at 100,000 miles

I've never done the lines with the motor in the car. You don't have to remove the OMP at least.

I would -

- Get new lines
- Get all new crush washers
- Get new oil injectors

Remove upper intake manifold, alternator, and belts. You MIGHT be able to remove the lines with the rat's nest in place. May also be able to remove the 2 12mm bolts and lift up on it a bit to gain access.

If you're in there, definitely do both.

Oh, there is a metal tab that holds the lines up tight to the bottom of the water pump housing along with the wiring harness going to the OMP. It's going to be hard to see in the car. That tab does bolt on with a 10mm bolt, you may be able to remove it to make access a little better.

Go slow, take your time, and you'll be fine. Remember, crush washers go on each side of the lines' fittings.

Dale

Rikk

iTrader: (2)

Dale are FD oil lines a different tubing material from the FC, in that the FD lines aren't formed/shaped? My SS lines are much more flexible than the new FC OEM lines?

Sgtblue

iTrader: (16)

Stainless lines are fine IMO and you'd never have to worry about them again. And a couple sections of old rubber hose would protect them from anything they might rub too much. Not sure how they compare to the cost of OEM replacements, but worth it IF the engine is out. But because they aren't pre-bent and resist much twisting, they would be a PITA to route with the engine in the car.
In your situation I would go OEM or find that compression clip. This might also help.... https://www.rx7club.com/2nd-gen-arch...-lines-348068/

rxmiles

iTrader: (11)

I'd add a vote for new or gently used OEM lines. It's a plus to be able to see through them to make sure you're getting oil feed. Now if one want's to go too far I suppose you could use small copper piping and form it like the OE lines route.

Nakd n Fearless

iTrader: (4)

Which line broke? #1 front or #2 rear? That will not be a easy job with the engine still in the car. The injector nozzles are the first parts installed on the block as its being built. There isn't any reason to remove the OMP itself, just the injector nozzles. You do NEED to replace the copper sealing washers, they are standard metric sizes (M6 & M10?) except for the figure 8 shaped one (PN# N390-14-602) on the OMP side. OEM Mazda teflon lines will probably be the cheapest way.

Andre The Giant

iTrader: (21)

Using the thread posted above as a guide, easy to rebuild your own. And the material has better properties than stock, can be routed wherever you want. Downside is that they are not pre-molded. If you are only a parts replacer type of person, maybe they aren't the thing for you.

RENESISFD

iTrader: (13)

I have to agree with dale, OEM lines are the way to go. Unless you get fancy and bend up stainless tubing for lines.

DaleClark

iTrader: (55)

The FD lines are pre-formed. New lines are nice, supple plastic - old lines, of course, are hard and vulcanized, kind of like the stock rubber vacuum lines.

Stock lines -




Dale

cymfc3s

+1 to Dale's recommendation to get new oil injectors. When I had my motor rebuilt, one of the rotor housings showed signs of oil starvation. Though difficult to put the blame solely on a faulty injector, its cheap insurance.

Blk 93

Thanks for your all responses guys.

All good ways to go I suspect. Preformed hard lines using the teflon line as a template for shape would certainly last longer,
but I decided to just go with new OEM lines.

I should have mentioned this is an engine build in progress, out of the car,
so there will be very little involved in re-routing the new lines.

Glad to hear the OM pump doesn't need to come out again.

I already have new oil injector nozzles, but thank you for suggesting these.