Replaced FPD and Primary Injectors, Car won't start
03-23-07, 08:41 PM
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Replaced FPD and Primary Injectors, Car won't start
My car hasn't started for a month and I replaced my FPD and Primaries, I also replaced the vacuum lines (this means everything on the top of the motor was out i.e. UIM, rats nest, primary rail, coils). The starter motor turns but it won't fire. What could have gone wrong (I know it could be a lot of things but I need help)?
03-23-07, 08:52 PM
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Do you have spark? Pull the plugs and de-flood it. It could be 1000 things so start at the most basic and proceed from there.
Post what you have tried and the results i.e., checked spark and its good. Pulled plugs and they were wet and when I cranked the engine with the plugs out there was fuel vapor all over the place!!!! Thank god no fire!
Then people can have some reference to start helping.
Post what you have tried and the results i.e., checked spark and its good. Pulled plugs and they were wet and when I cranked the engine with the plugs out there was fuel vapor all over the place!!!! Thank god no fire!
Then people can have some reference to start helping.
03-24-07, 04:27 PM
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I got the car started but it idles extremely rough at about 800-1000 rpm. It sounds horrible and has very low power, can anyone help?
Edit: And the check engine light is on.
Edit: And the check engine light is on.
Last edited by Specter328; 03-24-07 at 04:36 PM.
03-24-07, 09:32 PM
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Yep, pull the codes. I had a starting problem after replacing the FPD too. Mine turned out to be a broken coolant thermosensor, It would only start with starting fluid, but would run like crap. Trying to start in normally it would just flood. Could still be a few things.
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03-25-07, 01:23 AM
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Just did one, it was flooded. De-flood, put new leading plugs in it and then add a bit of oil in the UIM. It'll start. Pull the fuel pump fuse and see if it kicks over...
03-25-07, 07:47 AM
#12
Originally Posted by Specter328
How do I pull codes? Do I need one of those diagnostic computers?
http://fd3s.net/engine_codes.html
03-25-07, 09:38 AM
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other week i took my car apart put it together and i could get it to start sometimes....and it was rough like one rotor was working....it ended up being an injector clip...
03-25-07, 11:00 AM
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The was code I got was for the knock sensor. I'm going tear the top of the motor down again and make sure everything was done correctly and find the problem. It really does feel like running on one rotor and I just installed cleaned injectors so maybe theres a problem with those.
03-25-07, 11:37 PM
#15
Have you verified that the injectors are opening and spraying fuel? I know that you just got them cleaned but believe it or not, after a thorough cleaning, they can get stuck closed. The way to tell is to take the upper manifold off, dig down to the injectors (should not have to take the rat's nest off), unplug the harness to injector connections, turn the key to ON (but don't start it) to prime the fuel pump. Then use alligator clip leads to clip one pin of the injector to the neg terminal on the battery. Then clip the other pin to the positive terminal on the battery. When you touch the clip to the positive terminal, your injector should make a loud "click". If it doesn't, tap on the top of the injector with a wrench and repeat the connection to the battery. Keep on until it clicks. Repeat procedure for all 4 injectors.
Not saying that this IS the problem but that it might be. Happened to me and a couple of other people too.
Not saying that this IS the problem but that it might be. Happened to me and a couple of other people too.
03-26-07, 06:05 PM
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I got it started. One cleaned injector was not working so I put the old ones in and it ran at a little high idle but a lot more smooth. If about 15 minutes it began to leak coolant on the turbo side. Any ideas where its coming from?
03-26-07, 08:04 PM
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OK, the coolant leak stopped for some reason so I couldn't find out where it came from. It runs a little different with some odd sounds but I think its running decent. The only two problems are that its surging at from about 1000rpm to 1200rpm and the engine check light is still on. I just hope that bad primary didn't hurt the motor.
03-26-07, 08:15 PM
#19
If you're not sure about the coolant leak, you ought to at least replace both turbo coolant lines.
I assume that because you've gotten down to the injectors, that you've replaced the one from the block to throttle body lately, because doing it later would be more difficult and IMHO a major mistake.
Dave
I assume that because you've gotten down to the injectors, that you've replaced the one from the block to throttle body lately, because doing it later would be more difficult and IMHO a major mistake.
Dave
03-26-07, 08:22 PM
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All the coolant lines on top of the motor were in pretty good condition so I did not replace those. The thing that worries me is the check engine light for the knock sensor.
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