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Rebuild won't start.

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Old 05-13-07, 08:46 PM
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Rebuild won't start.

I sunk my new rebuild in the car today. I put a small bit of oil down the intake runners before I put the UIM on. The engine started without a hitch, ran smooth. The only problem was the oil started to smoke out my garage within 30 seconds, badly, and I think the neighbors were lookin at me weird, so I shut it off after 30 seconds of use. I knew I made a mistake by turning it off.

I've now drained my battery 2 times over trying to get it to start back up. I've pulled the eg fuse and spark plugs to clear the fuel, put MMO in the plug holes, cleaned off the brand new plugs with air pressure and a torch and I've checked them for spark. I know I am getting fuel.

The damn thing wont sputter, pop, or give any hint that it wants to start, just the crank of the starter fighting the compression. I've spent all day yelling at it, that didn't work either.

What else could be going on? This really sucks.
Old 05-13-07, 10:03 PM
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You should have let it just continue to run. Tons of smoke is completely normal for the next half hour, sometimes longer. I really cannot think of what your problem can be. Stop putting oil in the engine as theres tons of assembly lube to help in the lubrication. I would wire brush the plugs off and keep all of them out. Try then de-flooding the car for 10 seconds with a rag over the spark plug ports. Then just make sure you have the plug wires on the right plugs and secured snug. Other than that it should fire up with spark and fuel. Goodluck
Old 05-14-07, 06:08 AM
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You're flooded, pull the plugs, disconnect the EG and crank the car over, you need to get rid of all the excess fuel and crap that'll be in there.

Add some 10-40 via a syringe to the spark holes and then turn the engine over by hand (about 3 rotations) using the pulley on the end of the eccentric shaft.

Also use a blow torch on your plugs and try to put them back in warmish (it helps)

Try again, if it doesn't go you'll need to repeat the process, I did the same as you and it took 2 days to get the thing fired up again, it drove me mad

ps. poke the **** out of the garage and pray greenpeace aren't around
Old 05-14-07, 09:45 AM
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I may have to tow it to work and do it at the shop, our damn houses are too close together, my neighbor got pissed at me on my last rebuild, not to mention the fiance doesn't care for my **** either.
Old 05-14-07, 10:06 AM
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Quit putting **** down the motor, it is just making it harder to start. If you can give it a pull start the added load will pop it over much easier.
Old 05-15-07, 12:14 AM
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against iceblue's advice I poured some MMO down the runners, and moved the rotors by hand. I let it sit for an hour, then cranked the MMO out with the starter, put the plugs back in, and cranked over the engine to hear music of a street port: brap, brap, brap, brap, brrrttttttttttttt, brap, brrrttttttttttttt, brap, brap, brap. Most of the smoke cleared wihin 10 mins.
Old 05-15-07, 03:18 AM
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Great news

Turning by hand does help to make a bit of a difference. Its a horrible feeling when your car doesn't start and you do fear the worst

Congrats!
Old 05-15-07, 07:52 AM
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Next time try ATF.
Old 05-16-07, 12:57 PM
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I am against the ATF because it just eats rubber seals and fouls the plugs. MMO is a refined ATF so why not use MMO instead its a lite body that wont eat the o rings out like ATF or foul the plugs. There also should not be a need there should be a tone of assembly lube in the motor to begin with.
Old 05-16-07, 04:36 PM
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^ I agree, I've used 10/40 in the past and it worked like a charm
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