dhahlen

iTrader: (5)

I bought a used KG Parts kit from someone on the forum and had an insanely difficult time installing it.

All 4 injectors are top feed.

I used some 5/8 in hose to create "insulators" for the primary injectors.

The secondary injectors just had the spacers and they fit right into the hole just fine, I am not sure if I was supposed to add any 'insulators' or not.

I wanted to know if you have to make your own insulators for the kit on the secondaries. I know I had to do that on the primary.

Here are pics of the primaries from the kgparts website, this is what I did as well.



Now on the secondaries, they had the metal spacers, and I didn't need to ad any insulators since they fit snug in there. I didn't have time to pressurize the system and check for leaks so I guess I'll find out when I get everything hooked up.

Wanted to know if anyone had run across this problem and had to add anything to the secondary injectors.

Here are the instructions from kgparts:

http://www.3rdgenrx7.com/keithshowto.htm

mirabile

Ask Keith.

rxrotary2_7

We have them for the primary injectors as well. $16 shipped for the pair. http://kgparts.com/index.php?page=diy

You can paypal to: rxrotary2_7@yahoo.com and leave a note (or in the Subject line) that you want Primary Injector spacers.

spoolage

iTrader: (2)

Did not see them in the link you provided

IRPerformance

iTrader: (41)

Get the spacers from Keith. They work much better than the hose.

Dudemaaanownsanrx7

iTrader: (23)

i didnt add anything for the secondaries. the metal spacers worked just fine. i did put a very thin layer of RTV around the spacer before i inserted it. It may not have needed it but i felt better having it. I hate doing things twice

mono4lamar

iTrader: (32)

You use the metal spacers supplied by Keith. It's completely normal to have to sand them down to fit in the block. It takes less than and hour but is very important so they can be removed...

IRPerformance

iTrader: (41)

Don't sand anything down. They are designed to be pressed into the injector recesses. It is essential that it is a tight fit or they may not seal. You can you either the proper size bearing driver or socket and gently tap them in with a hammer. I like to use a thin layer or silicone rtv to help seal them. They are not meant to be removed and reused.

mono4lamar

iTrader: (32)

Why on earth would you use rvt on something that is near gas? First the gasoline will deteriorate tne rvt and second any no liberal application (by mistake) could squeeze out and interfere with the spray pattern. When the cups are on the injectors they are fully seated onto the o-ring and inserted into the block they bottom out creating a seal. Keith deliberately tells you to sand them down. Myself and Damian use this technique and I've used this on a couple other fd's I've worked on. From memory I thought you were a person that did this also. Anyway,you're not sanding them down and throwing them in. You're suppose to sand for a couple minutes and check the interference till they comfortably go in.

Driving these into the block and you're not going to be getting them out without having the center iron out of the car. If you ever decide to got back to the factory primary rail it's surely not going to fit anymore. Lastly, if you decide to part out your motor the next person in line is stuck with the cups unless they want to dremel them out.

Respectfully I don't think driving them in is good advice. If you want to use rvt you could use it around the outer base of the supplied aluminum injector cup that's further away from the pintle.

IRPerformance

iTrader: (41)

Maybe you've have an issue with a few sets, but none of the ones I have installed took much force to tap in. Its not like pressing a bearing. They should go it without much trouble. The gasoline does not touch the silicone. I am talking about an extremely thin layer that helps seal the aluminum spacer to the injector recess. This is to prevent vacuum leaks, not fuel leaks. I use a certain rtv that is extra thin. Otherwise you have a metal on metal contact that can lead to a vacuum leak because nothing seals the actual spacer to the injector recess. I understand your mentality in the event you want to remove them, but I have removed many of these easily without damaging the intermediate iron or the lower intake manifold. I usually use a certain shape Matco or Snapon pic. Not trying to start a war here, but I have installed at least 50 of these fuel systems over the years and never had a fuel leak or vacuum leak in this area from my methods. Maybe it helps that I clean the injector recesses as part of my engine prep process before I build it. I find a lot crud tends to collect in that area. Still, I prefer to have a tight fit because fuel rails are no fun to pull out once everything is together. I wouldn't be surprised if many people have a vacuum leak without realizing it. On a single turbo car and with all the people that just yank stuff like idle control you can compensate with the air bleed screw and throttle stop on the throttle body and still get a decent idle if the leak isn't too large.

Dudemaaanownsanrx7

iTrader: (23)

I used a thin layer of rtv as well. I'm pretty sure it is a fuel safe rtv but either way i don't see the fuel finding its way there unless the o-ring on the bottom of the injector was damaged. No problems with mine so far.