dre_2ooo

Well, as extra insurance, I put in a profec B II boost controller to guard against the occasional boost spike.

For others' reference, at these settings, I ran a perfect 10-8-10.5 pattern repeatedly in any gear w/o any spiking or creep/trailoff:

34% duty
20% gain
2psi start

I also did NOT "T" in the precontrol actuator, I left that thing alone.

ANYWAYS, The issue is not with boost, but rather the profec. Last night I ran maybe 9 good runs w/no issues. I ate dinner and let the car sit for about an hour.

I warmed her up after dinner, cruised around and did some more runs.... pattern was 7-5-7 everytime. It's like the controller is off, but it's on (displays {LO} or {HI}). The settings didn't change or reset.

I later noticed that the electrical tape on the wire that goes to the profec solenoid had come off and the bare wires were exposed. It looks like those wires (green and white) were touching ea. other. I re-taped/re-soldered them, but it still acts like it's not on. I checked the hoses and connector to the solenoid, all good.

There's no way that those wires touching could have broke it, is there? I just got the thing and it has a 1yr warranty.

SO, any idea what I can do/check short of sending it back in to Greddy?

dre_2ooo

For clarification, the wires that were touching are the ones that run from the back of the controller through the firewall, and into the solenoid under the hood. I had to cut them and solder them to fit them through the firewall hole.

DaleClark

iTrader: (55)

I'd be concerned that those wires touched each other or ground and shorted out the driver in the head unit that operates the solenoid.

Dale

dre_2ooo

Son-of-a-bitch. I wonder if that voids the warranty.

Do you know if there's any way to test it...like with a multimeter or something.

rynberg

I suspect the same things as Dale. Next time, use shrink wrap.

dre_2ooo

Well, GReddy insists that either it shorted out the "drive control" for the solenoid, or my ECU somehow adapted or learned to cut boost to 7psi. If it was a short, then it does VOID my warranty. ****.

They say i HAVE to "T" in the PCA line for it to even work...which is bullshit 'cause it worked fine for a many runs on the WG line and I don't see how the ECU can control my boost if it has no control over the wastegate now.

Well, I guess it was my fault then. Anyone know what exactly this drive controller is? Is it some little part I can replace like a transistor or do I have to get a new head unit?

rynberg

You do not have to "T" it to work. The ecu cannot interfere with boost now. I sincerely doubt you are going to find electronic components to fix the damage to the circuitry....I think you are in for a replacement.

dre_2ooo

Bah.

Well, a guy at my work is selling his used (whole kit) for $250. I guess I'll have to bite the $250 bullet. Damn.

Do you know if it could have damaged the solenoid as well?

turb0x2

iTrader: (71)

dre...theres a thread in the 3rd gen section for a new one at 250 shipped..probably won't last long:

https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.php?t=634555

On a side note...if the controller is turned off you should see the 7psi you are seeing...so I too am almost certain as Dale/Rynberg that you are indeed in for a replacement Hows everything else working out for you...sell that fc?

Montego

iTrader: (1)

If you toggle between Hi and low buttons does your boost controller work as it should?

if it does then it's a common problem that some profec spec II seem to experience. If that is indeed the problem call greddy again and ask for Benny only he knows the problem. Mine experiences that and my controller is currently at greddy.

Don't be a dork and tell them about the wires either. Just focus on your problem.

https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...ht=profec+spec

dre_2ooo

Hey man! yeah the controller is on. I tried both LO and HI modes. Like I said, it worked perfectly and then just stopped.

Otherwise, the car is running great . I put the profec in as extra insurance because in the cold MN nights, boost spikes up to 13psi at transistion, which is scary on stock ECU.

I did sell my FC to another local forum member. He has an FB, FC and FD.

Oh well, this'll teach me to use shrink wrap. I think the cold weather made my electrical tape stale.

dre_2ooo

Problem solved.

Solution: another head unit I bought from a co-worker

Oh well, everything is operating fine now.

turb0x2

iTrader: (71)

good to hear man!