Dudemaaanownsanrx7

iTrader: (23)

I just installed a freshly street ported engine with 3mm seals and single turbo. When i tried to start it the solinoid on the starter didnt get any power. Instead of tinkering with that i just ran a wire from the battery to a switch and to the starter.

cranked on it a few times, wouldnt start but combusted smoke came out. I checked the Rear trailing plug to see if i had spark and i did. Fuel pump was working. Put a rag with fuel on it and stuffed it in the throttle body opening. Fired right up and ran until the fuel was gone. (at some point i also reversed the primary injector plugs) After several times it finally ran without the rag with fuel, and eventually it even started without the rag. It ran as long as i let it maybe 15 mins, but it was getting late so shut it off and went to bed.

Next morning (today) tried to start without rag, wouldnt start, after using the rag first time it started and didnt need it anymore. It wont idle under 1800- 2000 rpms and if i blip the throttle slightly it goes up and takes a long time to come back down. (throttle not sticking.) Anyways after running it awhile i took a break and shut if off.

Came back out and it wont start. just cranks over and smokes regardless of using the rag or not. I poured some ATF fluid in the plug holes and it started acting like it would start, but then stopped. Also i dont know which connector is front and which is rear for the primary injectors, how can i tell?? I figured if it was running it must have been right, but maybe it will run regardless. I took them loose to look at the connections and possibly got them mixed up from what they were so i dunno. I also checked the leading plugs and they aren't firing. Only the trailing. I dont know if they were firing before or if this is a new issue, but how can i fix that?

I must also say all my emissions and turbo solinoids etc under the LIM have been removed and have block off plates installed. I'm runnning the stock ECU with a greddy emanage and e-01, i plan on getting a PFC and wideband, but i wanted to get the engine starting and running first. The emanage maps are set back to stock. None of the connectors under the LIM have the 330 ohm resistors which i realize will cause a CIL, will this effect how the car runs/idles/starts?? The downpipe, exhaust, and o2 sensor aren't hooked up either. I haven't pulled any codes yet, as i'm sure there will be a long list with all the stuff i have disabled. I'm sorry for the long post, i just wanted to provide as much details as possible. I have a feeling if i pull start the car it will start, but there is some obvious issues, and i wasnt sure if the seals still havent worked themselves in and that that was causing the high idle and difficult starting. I dunno please help. (edit: one more thing, the fuel pump doesnt come on when the key is on, but it does come on once it's cranked over, is that normal?)

Dudemaaanownsanrx7

iTrader: (23)

anyone?? i pulled the codes, and as i suspected msot all of them were related to the emmissions and stock turbo system. Doed anyone know if those codes will make the car run differently? The only codes that i was unsure of are # 32 "switching" im guessing is part of the turbo system but not sure, #33 port air bypass? and then it had #53 which is the fuel pump relay, im not sure if that code was thrown from when i pulled the relay, or if my relay is bad. Can someone tell me is the fuel pump supposed to run when u turn the key on or only when cranking and started?

Dudemaaanownsanrx7

iTrader: (23)

well although no one has had any input, i dont like when people start threads and dont keep them updated after they solve the problems. So although no one has any input i will keep this thread updated. I hooked the Trailing igniter signal to the Leading coil to test the coil. Cranking yielded a nice big spark meaning the coil was ok. The problem turned out to be a bad connection @ the 4 prong square plug that goes to the short coil harness. I took it apart and resoldered the wire. Everything works fine now with the ignition system. I cranked the engine over and it sputtered a little but didnt start. I added the rag with fuel and would start for short periods then die. I'm not sure if my pri injector plugs are plugged into the right injectors, but i tried reversing them with no noticeable difference. I'll keep fiddling with the damn thing and maybe one of these days it will actually start and run like a normal car. Until then i'll keep this thread updated and welcome any input.

Mahjik

iTrader: (1)

What codes do you still have popping up in the ECU?

Tom93R1

iTrader: (2)

All the interior plugs for the wiring harness plugged in? I just got my engine in and running a couple nights ago, the snag I hit was I forgot to connect the big blue plug on the interior part of the engine harness (4 yellow to ECU, White to dash, and blue to wherever it goes). Engine cranked, fuel pump ran, got spark, but injectors wouldnt fire. It would run on carb cleaner. Took about 5 hours and about as many battery charges to discover I forgot to plug that in and then it fired up first try.

Dudemaaanownsanrx7

iTrader: (23)

I have gone single, removed things from the UIM. and all emisiions. I didnt add the 330 ohm resistors b/c i will be adding the PFC and didnt mind a CEL, that is unless the ECU changes some parameters based on the codes... ? I also have some new codes from cranking it over with the UIM removed to test the coils. (11 & 18) Later i'll go clear the codes to make sure they go away. I'm thinking of adding the resistors too just so it doesnt take so long to look at all the codes.Here's the list.

11: Intake thermo sensor (**new code from lifting UIM)
16: EGR valve (california spec cars) **REMOVED
18:Throttle sensor narrow range (**new code from lifting UIM)
25: pressure regulator control Solenoid **REMOVED
28: EGR **REMOVED
30: Split air bypass Solenoid
31: Relief 1 Solenoid
32: Switching Solenoid
33: Port Air bypass solenoid
38: Accelerated Warmup system and air supply solenoid **REMOVED
39: Relief 2
40: Purge Control auxilary port valve
42: Turbo Precontrol
43: Wastegate Control
44: Turbo Control
45: Charge Control
46: Charge Relief control
50: Double throttle solenoid **removed
54: Air pump relay
Most all the codes are from removing the solenoids, there are a few that i dont know what they are but were probably part of the rats nest. Like 32 and 33.

Dudemaaanownsanrx7

iTrader: (23)

Yes all those are plugged in. My injectors are firing, or at least were firing, it's hard to tell now. And i don't know which way they go. I had the car running for a good 15 minutes at a time though. It just idled very high and would hang on revs if the throttle was blipped. I have a feeling that was because of not having spark on the Leading plugs.

I do have a wire poking out of the harness about 3" that has no end on it, it's a bluish color, it's close to the lower ground strap thats on drivers side down low by power steering bracket. I think it goes to my oil level sender, it's in the right spot just not long enough to reach. My oil level sender is missing a wire though, so it's a logical guess. I dont think this would cause the no starting though.

Mahjik

iTrader: (1)

Those codes shouldn't keep the car from running, however some of them will make it run like crap. I believe the following codes will put the car into limp mode:

42: Turbo Precontrol
43: Wastegate Control
45: Charge Control

One test you can do is to unplug the injectors from the wiring harness, and then run two lines from the battery to the prongs. Tap the injectors with the lines and see if you hear them click.

As far as knowing which plug goes onto which injector, the best idea is to look at the wiring diagram and verify you have the right color of wire going to right injector. On new harnesses, the front injector plugs have a white ring on the wiring cover. That ring may not be visible on an old crispy harness.

Dudemaaanownsanrx7

iTrader: (23)

so i should at least put the 330 ohm resistors on whatever plugs those are? Yeah i dont think the white ring is visible, but i can probably determin the color of the wires, or do a continuity test between the ecu and injector harness. I dont have a FSM, so my only sourse is the downloaded and online FSM's which are kinda difficult to find exactly what i need. I was actually trying to look for the injector wiring diagram this morning, still looking. thanks for the helps so far

Mahjik

iTrader: (1)

I believe a 330ohm 1/2watt resistor should work.

Here's the wiring diagram:

http://mahjik.homestead.com/files/ho...ng_Diagram.zip

Dudemaaanownsanrx7

iTrader: (23)

I did manage to find the wiring diagram, im also dling yours to verify. thank u btw. The one i looked at showed LG/B & B/Y for Primary rear and LG/R & B/Y for primary front. I dont know the color codes but i pretty much figured out that R must be red and although it was difficult to tell one defininately looked more red then the other. It looked like red and brown. I took some pictures that i'll post. if i do have it correct then the front injector wire comes out of the harness about half an inch closer to the front injector (u can tell in the pictures i will post.) I tested the injectors with 12v and both fire. When i removed the UIM to take pics i noticed the last time i put it on i forgot to hook the wiring harness ground strap to the bolt on the UIM so that could be a problem....? I also took pics of the loose wire i have on the drivers side, which is kind of an aqua blue color with red bands every inch or so. If it does go to the Oil sender i dont understand why it comes out of the top of the harness instead of the bottom. Ok i'll get the pics dled and posted. Thanks for more help

Dudemaaanownsanrx7

iTrader: (23)

The last picture shows the injectors in relation to the wiring harness. The 2nd pic shows the loose wire i have which i think possibly goes the the oil level sender. Maybe someone can verify? First picture is the same loose wire with less detail and further away looking straight down near the steering rack.

GoodfellaFD3S

iTrader: (213)

I believe the loose wire is the oil level sender, not positive.

Dudemaaanownsanrx7

iTrader: (23)

well i have good news. After leaving the plugs out to dry.I put the plugs back in. Shot a lil starter fluid in the intake and the car started. it was intermitant though running on one rotor most of the time. So i shut it down and the plugs were very wet on one side and carboned up on the other, cleaned them off real good and swapped them front to rear, the car started and ran great on both rotors. reved up freely and came back down to idle. Drove it around a little. It doesnt run very good if u try to put much load on it, but none of my exhaust is on, or othe 2 sensor, and i need to get my wideband and get the fuel set right. At least now I have it running. Hearing it helps bring me further motivation.