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I JUST REPLACE my front wiring harness, everything went well. car started up first time but now car starts but then shuts offafter like 3 sec
THINGS I CHECKED - all fuses under dash
-all fuses in engine bay
-swapped relay for fuel pump
- unplugged fuel pump resister under the brake booster(to see if i it was bad car wouldnt start up w it unplugged) so that works
WHAT ELSE IS RELATED TO FUEL OR IS THIS PROBLEM EVEN FUEL RELATED<A FRIEND OF MINE THINKS SO
Also if i try o press gas b4 i shuts off the car autamtically shuts off
Check your MAP sensor (Labeled "Boost Sensor" attached to driver's side firewall) hose? If it came disconnected during the labor it could be the culprit and an easy fix... It's happened to me a few times
Can you hear your fuel pump come on when you put the key to acc? If all of your fuses, relays, and ignition wiring to your relay is okay then I would break out a voltmeter and check all of your wiring. Make sure you have a good ground and good connections. I am pretty sure something is either not connected or a bad ground. Check your fuel pump relay with a voltmeter first. Good luck
by the way, I once replaced my fuel pump relay and 100% of everything else that had to do with the fuel system (even replaced my fuel pump) and nothing fixed the problem. Come to find out the new fuel pump relay I had put in went bad immediately because a little water was setting where I plugged it in at. I dried it out and put a new relay in and it worked perfect. Make sure there is no moisture in there.
cas connectors??? whats that
edit: o i know those were never touched, i only replaced front main harness not engine harness
thanks any other ideas
Crank Angle Sensor connectors. There are two of them, the sensors are down behind the trigger wheel. White connector on top, grey connector on bottom.
__________________ Every man shall be held accountable for every one of his actions. The question is not 'if,' but 'when.' 1995 BB PEP (35k miles), 1993 BB R1 (12k miles), 1993 VR R1 (124k miles), 1993 VR R1 (RIP), 1990 triple black vert (167k miles)
Back from DGRR---2013B Madness
there is way to little information here to work with. the first thing you need to do is find out if it is spark or fuel. the best way to find this out is pull a plug wire and leave it off the plug a half of an inch, then watch the spark jump when it dies. without that info there is not much anyone can do. never assume anything.
Quit trying to chase what you "think" might be the problem and just troubleshoot it logically. An engine needs only a few things to start: air, fuel, spark, and compression. It also needs these in the correct sequence.
Since it fires up and catches, it's pretty safe to say you've got compression and spark, but it wouldn't hurt to double-check. Compression testers are less than $50 from an auto parts store, that's a pretty straight-forward test. For spark, you can either connect a timing light to your plug wires to verify they're firing, or remove one spark plug lead, connect it to a spare spark plug, and hold that plug near the shock tower and look for spark.
Install a fuel pressure gauge and check to see that you've got enough pressure. The factory service manual has info regarding the correct fuel pressure, as well as where to monitor fuel pressure.
The OEM fuel system has a vacuum-controlled fuel pressure regulator, if it's not connected to engine vacuum that will screw with fuel pressure, possibly enough to let the motor fire up but then die.
Just to be thorough, you might want to double-check all the fuses and make sure nothing is blown. The ECU gets power from one source while cranking, and another source when it's not cranking.
Try pulling your spark plugs to see if they're wet or dry after the motor dies. That might give you some helpful insight.
-s-
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Quote:
Originally Posted by adam c
The FD is a pain in the *** to do just about anything. Is it worth it?? I still have mine
Linear Mode
